synthetic motor oil?

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by rico-2SS

My Yukon started doing that once I switched to full syn. quart low every 3000. pain it is

If yours started after switching to synthetic, this could be due to synthetic being a slipperier oil (technical term ). It will seep out of seals such as valve covers or rear mains much easier than standard DINO oil. That quart is going someplace. It could also be sneaking by the valve seats more easily than DINO as well and getting burned in the combustion process.

Other than that, there's no reason synthetic would make any difference in oil consumption.

[djm96z28]

I've never used synthetic in my Z28 and have never had to add one drop of oil. I change it pretty often, 2,600 - 2,800 miles.

[zebra]

thanks Speedy for the oil lesson, & i'm curious... are you saying i'm better off going back to lizard juice instead of synthetic again? i've been using Wix filters lately - any opinions?

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by zebra

thanks Speedy for the oil lesson, & i'm curious... are you saying i'm better off going back to lizard juice instead of synthetic again? i've been using Wix filters lately - any opinions?

Well, if you're losing a quart every 3K miles, I'd definitely try going back to DINO for a couple of oil changes to see if it helps. Also, clean your engine bay really good and see if you spot any leaks. I completely detail my cars once a year, including the engine bay, but I'm anal as hell. You can eat off my engine bay in my car, literally.

How much are your Wix filters? If more than $6 or so, I'd say use the Purolator PureOne. Purolator makes two versions of their filter...Premium Plus and PureOne. PurOne is what you want as it has synthetic media and filters with a much higher efficiency.

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by djm96z28

I've never used synthetic in my Z28 and have never had to add one drop of oil. I change it pretty often, 2,600 - 2,800 miles.

That's WAY too early for an oil change. Use that time to detail the engine bay or something.

[CamaroSpike23]

Originally Posted by Vash

I recommend Royal Purple Mineral break in oil for breaking in engines. Then switch to Royal Purple full synth. My LT1 Corvette, one of the first built, loves the Royal Purple I also use it in my L35 (v6 truck).

every LT1 ive seen loves RP.

Originally Posted by Dragoneye

Where do you send the oil off to?


And I was always under the impression that it's ALL "Dino" oil. Synthetic isn't "made", per say, but has just had its carbon-chains manipulated.

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

DINO is used to denote "non-synthetic". You could be right on the synthetic just having the carbon chains manipulated. I've never looked into that since I don't use synthetic oil. Like I said, if cheap DINO goes a year, why bother.

In contrast to petroleum oils which are pumped from the earth and refined, synthetics are custom-designed in the laboratory, with each phase of their molecular construction programmed to produce, in effect, the ideal lubricant.

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

If you're ok paying $12 - $15 for your Mobil 1 filter when you can get a Purolator PurOne for $6 that is as good or better that's your perogative.

You want to read up on this though before you continue throwing money away:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...ce.html#mobil1

The whole page is really informative, but particularly that section. I found it interesting how many different filters are actually made by the same companies and re-badged.

yup, people are paying too much for what they are getting. but they are getting good protection.

and yes, Champion Labs makes around 80% of filters out there for the big corporations. Royal Purple has even contracted them for a RP filter now.

as for some more reading about oil.... cus im lazy and dont want to retype it all....


http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...3&postcount=35

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

If yours started after switching to synthetic, this could be due to synthetic being a slipperier oil (technical term ). It will seep out of seals such as valve covers or rear mains much easier than standard DINO oil. That quart is going someplace. It could also be sneaking by the valve seats more easily than DINO as well and getting burned in the combustion process.

Other than that, there's no reason synthetic would make any difference in oil consumption.

exactly right... Synth oil particles are uniform in size compared to dino-oils that can vary greatly in size. as far as being a slippier oil. if they are the same grade and viscosity, they should have the same amount of "slip" however, synthetics have additional additives that can prolong their life over dino-oil

Originally Posted by zebra

thanks Speedy for the oil lesson, & i'm curious... are you saying i'm better off going back to lizard juice instead of synthetic again? i've been using Wix filters lately - any opinions?

stick with wix. or go pureone. both are great. and great for the price.

I stay stick with synth. if only for the fact that instead of losing a bit of oil here and there you are having the leaks in your engine clogged up with dino-oil that will continue to collect more and more (kinda like a clogged artery IYKWIM).

clean your engine down and find the external leaks (if there are any) and replace the seals/gaskets that they are leaking from.

not to mention, using full synth you arent adding to the high prices of oil.

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by Dragoneye

Where do you send the oil off to?


And I was always under the impression that it's ALL "Dino" oil. Synthetic isn't "made", per say, but has just had its carbon-chains manipulated.

Ok, you made me curious so I looked it up. Synthetic oil is just that...synthetic meaning man made.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

As for where to send the oil, I like www.blackstone-labs.com.

If you REALLY want the low down you can send it to http://www.dysonanalysis.com/ for a much more in depth analysis, but it'll cost ya. However this guy does the real deal and can spot engine problems WAY before they occur.

[zebra]

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

Well, if you're losing a quart every 3K miles, I'd definitely try going back to DINO for a couple of oil changes to see if it helps. Also, clean your engine bay really good and see if you spot any leaks. I completely detail my cars once a year, including the engine bay, but I'm anal as hell. You can eat off my engine bay in my car, literally.

How much are your Wix filters? If more than $6 or so, I'd say use the Purolator PureOne. Purolator makes two versions of their filter...Premium Plus and PureOne. PurOne is what you want as it has synthetic media and filters with a much higher efficiency.

i can get the Wix for 5.49 @ O'Reilly & i just talked to the store, and they don't carry the PureOne, but Purolator makes the MicroGuard filters & they're almost the exact same as the Wix on the insides. i can get one of them for 3.49

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by zebra

i can get the Wix for 5.49 @ O'Reilly & i just talked to the store, and they don't carry the PureOne, but Purolator makes the MicroGuard filters & they're almost the exact same as the Wix on the insides. i can get one of them for 3.49

You're call on that one.

I change my oil every 7,500 miles and change my filter every OTHER oil change on my daily driver/commuter. That is what the manual states. I'm trying to push the oil change interval out to 10K miles, but I'm not sure it can do that far. However, my goal for this commuter is to make it as cheap as possible to own/operate since it's not my "baby". It doesn't use a drop of oil though.

My "baby" which is my 4Runner I change the oil once a year since I don't drive it every day and it spends the week in my garage. I average about 300 - 400 miles a month in it and change the filter with the oil since it's a once a year deal.

The Camaro will probably get the once a year treatment as well once it's broken in as it'll become "baby" number 1 with the 4Runner relegated to "baby" number 2

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23

as for some more reading about oil.... cus im lazy and dont want to retype it all....


http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...3&postcount=35

not to mention, using full synth you arent adding to the high prices of oil.

Good info in your post here as well as the other thread. But having obviously done your research on oil I have to ask why you change your oil so frequently (~2500 miles as stated in your other thread with 4300 being the longest OCI).

I look at it like this....would you put new tires on after only using 25% of their tread? Then why change your oil after only using 25% of it's useful life?

[Xanthos]

Originally Posted by zebra

i can get the Wix for 5.49 @ O'Reilly & i just talked to the store, and they don't carry the PureOne, but Purolator makes the MicroGuard filters & they're almost the exact same as the Wix on the insides. i can get one of them for 3.49

I've been using MicroGuard exclusively for the last four and a half years. I use RP, 5W-30, and change the oil about every 5000 miles.

Works great for me - and the RP made a significant difference in gas mileage. Almost 10% over regular oil.
- Xanthos

P.S. -

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

<snip>
Then why change your oil after only using 25% of it's useful life?

So that you can keep your warranty?

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by XanthosV6

I've been using MicroGuard exclusively for the last four and a half years. I use RP, 5W-30, and change the oil about every 5000 miles.

Works great for me - and the RP made a significant difference in gas mileage. Almost 10% over regular oil.
- Xanthos

P.S. -


So that you can keep your warranty?

I doubt his car's manual mandates a 2500 miles oil change interval. All three of mine say 7,500, however the "status quo" (legal term) for oil changes is to simply show one oil change receipt for the past year and you're covered by your warranty.

[CamaroSpike23]

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

Good info in your post here as well as the other thread. But having obviously done your research on oil I have to ask why you change your oil so frequently (~2500 miles as stated in your other thread with 4300 being the longest OCI).

I look at it like this....would you put new tires on after only using 25% of their tread? Then why change your oil after only using 25% of it's useful life?

well, the 94Z28 gets thrashed on. not driven hard, she gets beat down. I'm talking, falcon punching your pregnant wife and stomping on your nuts thrashed on.

the 4300 miles was just because I didnt have time to get around to changing it for my normal schedule.

but my Z is also on the track a lot too and I push it till it breaks. (which is why my trans is messed up right now). and with 185,000 on the motor, and sending oil off for analysis numerous times after only 3000 miles. 3000 miles is pushing it on my motor for oil changes. now after I build the motor next year I should be able to spread the oil changes out to around 5k or so. but with my motor and the abuse its seen, I run 3k for my changes or less.

because as ive stated before, its not just how many miles that transpire, its what kind of miles as well as the time that transpires that determines oils life.

now, if you only DD the car back and forth to work/school/home/etc and only get on it occasionally, then yeah, I can guarantee you can run your oil changes longer.

but comparing them to tire life isnt completly valid. 25% of tire life is one thing, 2500 miles on tires is another. 2500 miles of burnouts is a whole new can of worms.

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23

well, the 94Z28 gets thrashed on. not driven hard, she gets beat down. I'm talking, falcon punching your pregnant wife and stomping on your nuts thrashed on.

the 4300 miles was just because I didnt have time to get around to changing it for my normal schedule.

but my Z is also on the track a lot too and I push it till it breaks. (which is why my trans is messed up right now). and with 185,000 on the motor, and sending oil off for analysis numerous times after only 3000 miles. 3000 miles is pushing it on my motor for oil changes. now after I build the motor next year I should be able to spread the oil changes out to around 5k or so. but with my motor and the abuse its seen, I run 3k for my changes or less.

because as ive stated before, its not just how many miles that transpire, its what kind of miles as well as the time that transpires that determines oils life.

now, if you only DD the car back and forth to work/school/home/etc and only get on it occasionally, then yeah, I can guarantee you can run your oil changes longer.

but comparing them to tire life isnt completly valid. 25% of tire life is one thing, 2500 miles on tires is another. 2500 miles of burnouts is a whole new can of worms.

Ah, track miles....that makes sense. I like the tire analogy too