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Old 01-08-2013, 08:52 PM   #183
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I am auto and having same problems.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:26 PM   #184
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TCAT I saw LS3 in your sig. I started to go back and check but I didnt see anyone else with any info in the sig... but nearly all are ss or 2ss.
I was confused on the whole park in reverse thing in the manual, I havn't driven a manual in almost 20 years and searched here to see what others were doing ( i thought something changed in the world of parking)
I had always parked in 1st with parking brake, (still do).
I have noticed when sitting in the car that the car makes some noises under the hood even after its been shut off for several minutes and key out, sounds like a servo motor or something moving.
I have no doubt these cars continue to suck juice from the battery after key off.
I wonder if the LEDs and the resistors may be adding to the drain.
Now even with the ECM shutting down parts of the car to save the battery we are still tied directly to the positive post with the technostalgias so I dont thing that would help, unless the rest of the car is draining stuff as well and its just the sum of all parts thats causing a problem.
I see Tom D has an auto so maybe this all has nothing to do with it, but its worth looking into.
Im not letting technostalgia off the hook yet

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ar+park&page=3

post 51 page 3 and then i think post 66 same page, there is more reference to it later in thread

Last edited by GVA 45TH 2SS; 01-09-2013 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:48 PM   #185
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I am a manual also and do not park in reverse.
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:50 AM   #186
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Bumping this to the top.....
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:10 AM   #187
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You can take my name off the list. It was my own dumb ass who left my underhood lights on. Once I recharged my battery everything, including the technostalgia lights, is fine again. I've had two cases of condensation that cleared up quickly but not other issues (knocking on wood).
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:38 AM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZombieEatsYou View Post
You can take my name off the list. It was my own dumb ass who left my underhood lights on. Once I recharged my battery everything, including the technostalgia lights, is fine again. I've had two cases of condensation that cleared up quickly but not other issues (knocking on wood).
That's excellent news man!!! I'm really glad it turned out to be something simple. Now you can actually enjoy the lights. Haha
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:12 PM   #189
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I've had them in for just over a year now; so they're not all duds.
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:33 PM   #190
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Very true man, just some. It's just hard to tell how many if them are duds.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:33 AM   #191
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Ok I have heard back from Todd at Technostalgia. Here is his reply which is consistant with a good battery or old battery. Meaning will probably last longer if you have a good battery. Mine went about 3 weeks before it started doing the flashing thing.

"Hi Tom - The lights will draw about 90 milliamps just sitting. This will drain your battery in about a month. Keep the battery tender on it when you will have it parked for a long time. Alternatively, you could connect the pink wire that goes to the battery to an "ignition on" wire. "

Todd
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So I believe that is what someone has already suggested be done in this thread. So that is my next change. Anyone know of an "ignition on" circuit in the back of the car? Would not be hard to find one but thought I would throw that out there incase anyone already knows.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:40 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom D View Post
Ok I have heard back from Todd at Technostalgia. Here is his reply which is consistant with a good battery or old battery. Meaning will probably last longer if you have a good battery. Mine went about 3 weeks before it started doing the flashing thing.

"Hi Tom - The lights will draw about 90 milliamps just sitting. This will drain your battery in about a month. Keep the battery tender on it when you will have it parked for a long time. Alternatively, you could connect the pink wire that goes to the battery to an "ignition on" wire. "

Todd
Technostalgia

So I believe that is what someone has already suggested be done in this thread. So that is my next change. Anyone know of an "ignition on" circuit in the back of the car? Would not be hard to find one but thought I would throw that out there incase anyone already knows.
Excellent! Thanks for sharing the info. Tom. I may have to try the ignition wire thing too, but I don't if I want to mess with that, especially if I want to get rid of the taillights some day, or just need to send them in for service because I don't know if I'll have to reverse the wiring job from the ingition switch to use the stock taillights.

Still, I am shocked that the taillights would draw that amount of power and kill the battery in roughly a month. That seems way to fast don't you all think?
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:46 AM   #193
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The BCM is back in the trunk I am sure there is a ignition feed on it

One other option is to put a switch on the pink wire and if you are going to leave it set just open the trunk and turn it off

Mine is driven every day so I don't see the issue but the kill switch would be easy
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:19 AM   #194
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Take a look at the link if the battery drops below 11.7 volts it will automaticly disconnect http://www.batterymart.com/p-priorit...lt-promax.html
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:46 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spd2612 View Post
Take a look at the link if the battery drops below 11.7 volts it will automaticly disconnect http://www.batterymart.com/p-priorit...lt-promax.html

Yeah here is another type with a remote instead of pressing the brake pedal for those of us with remote starts. Don't really want to have to add another device to the car though just to start it. Both of these would work I imagine.
http://granatellimotorsports.com/pro...rt-2327-0.html
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:49 AM   #196
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I guess I will stick to a battery tender! I love the lights and do not want to get rid of them! The switches and other stuff are getting to complicated. Battery tender helps the battery life in general for cars not driven all the time.
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