Boost/vacuum access for Single turbo build

[thecarter0]

Hi guys. I don’t talk much around here but I do read quite a bit. I’m currently working on a single turbo build but I am struggling with the seemingly simplest part. I can’t figure out a proper way to tap into vacuum/boost for the BOV, Wastegate, gauges, BAP etc. it seems like a hell of a lot of tee fittings. Does anyone have advice as to where to access as well as how to most efficiently access the site or sites? I’ve read that the brake booster line is a good spot. BUT I’ve been struggling on how to properly supply all these things off of one Tee on this line.

Hope this hasn’t been too confusing. Thanks ahead of time!

[jeff657756]

I use the fitting on the drivers side TB/intake manilfold for BOV, wastegates, boost controller and hobbs switch. And i use the fitting on the back of the intake manifold for fuel pressure regulator reference. Most are all 1/4" fittings and hose i think.

[thecarter0]

Originally Posted by jeff657756

I use the fitting on the drivers side TB/intake manilfold for BOV, wastegates, boost controller and hobbs switch. And i use the fitting on the back of the intake manifold for fuel pressure regulator reference. Most are all 1/4" fittings and hose i think.

So for the one on the driver side of the TB you just popped the hose off and ran it from there ? I yak it you had several Tee fittings lol. Also doesn’t that leave an open vacuum from the other side of the intake manifold when you when that fitting is removed.

Also I believe fitting on the back is actually the source for the brake booster.

Thanks for the quick response man. I’ve been digging through the forum for days

[GT Kilr]

You need a vacuum manifold block. Vibrant makes a nice but pricey one, I myself have a $20 eBay special. I put a 1/2" brass tee into the brake booster hose and placed the block in the corner of the engine bay beside the master cylinder. Currently I have my bov, wastegates, hobbs switch, and boost gauge connected to it with no issues, with one port remaining.

[jeff657756]

Originally Posted by thecarter0

So for the one on the driver side of the TB you just popped the hose off and ran it from there ? I yak it you had several Tee fittings lol. Also doesn’t that leave an open vacuum from the other side of the intake manifold when you when that fitting is removed.

Also I believe fitting on the back is actually the source for the brake booster.

Thanks for the quick response man. I’ve been digging through the forum for days

The driver side fitting comes stock as what the EVAP ties into. My evap goes to atmosphere now so i re purposed it as a vac reference. The other nipple on the other side i use for catch can return. It has a check valve built in so no boost goes through the can.

There are actually two in the back of the intake manifold. One for brake booster and another is used for npp exhaust vacuum. I pulled the fuse for npp and eventually got another exhaust so it freed up that port. Should be capped on cars without npp.

As the guy said above, a vac block would work too, but not absolutely necessary. You literally can get a couple of these and some hose and be fine.

https://agpturbo.com/vacuum-tee-single-barb-3-pack/

[thecarter0]

Originally Posted by GT Kilr

You need a vacuum manifold block. Vibrant makes a nice but pricey one, I myself have a $20 eBay special. I put a 1/2" brass tee into the brake booster hose and placed the block in the corner of the engine bay beside the master cylinder. Currently I have my bov, wastegates, hobbs switch, and boost gauge connected to it with no issues, with one port remaining.

Thank you! This sounds kind of what I was hoping for!

[thecarter0]

Originally Posted by GT Kilr

You need a vacuum manifold block. Vibrant makes a nice but pricey one, I myself have a $20 eBay special. I put a 1/2" brass tee into the brake booster hose and placed the block in the corner of the engine bay beside the master cylinder. Currently I have my bov, wastegates, hobbs switch, and boost gauge connected to it with no issues, with one port remaining.

Something along these lines?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263283425311

[GT Kilr]

Originally Posted by thecarter0

Something along these lines?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263283425311

Similar, yes. Mine however is made in such a way that when bolted down, the ports face upwards. This one is identical to mine, just $13 more for some reason.

Example Block

[Bildo]

Originally Posted by thecarter0

Something along these lines?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263283425311

I am curious as to how people are doing their hobbs switches, mine came with a threaded end and no hose adapter I will be using a procharger vacuum block that came with the race valve. Are most people threading directly into a vacuum / boost source or are they buying a hose barb adapter for the hobbs and just running a 1/4 line?

[blake-b]

Originally Posted by Bildo

I am curious as to how people are doing their hobbs switches, mine came with a threaded end and no hose adapter I will be using a procharger vacuum block that came with the race valve. Are most people threading directly into a vacuum / boost source or are they buying a hose barb adapter for the hobbs and just running a 1/4 line?

Either will work. My hobbs are screwed into my vacuum manifold. It depends on your space and personal preference.