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Old 01-14-2014, 02:20 PM   #85
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Can you later use these coilovers for an air suspension?
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:59 AM   #86
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I need to revisit the front passenger side. When first installing, I managed to get the strut bolt off without an impact gun. However I don't think that is going to happen, unless someone has an idea for me to try.

Anyway what is the cheapest aircompressor and impact gun I can get to achieve this. I see so many options at harbor freight.
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:21 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
I need to revisit the front passenger side. When first installing, I managed to get the strut bolt off without an impact gun. However I don't think that is going to happen, unless someone has an idea for me to try.

Anyway what is the cheapest aircompressor and impact gun I can get to achieve this. I see so many options at harbor freight.
I have a battery powered impact gun that can do about 95% of the work load that I need it for. Might be an option and yes it worked for my front strut disassembly.

good luck
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:31 PM   #88
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If I remember correctly, there is a place for an allen key in the top of the shaft to hold it from turning. Don't know if that will give you enough leverage to get the nut removed or not.

I would like to make a comment on the op, even though I know it is quite old. Just because a company uses a second party to make their products for them, and they also make their own labeled products, doesn't mean they are made to the same specs. Proof is the rear coilover adjuster. The BC one comes straight up and requires a hole in the trunk. The Pedders one comes out the side and is adjusted from under the car. The front coilover clevis mount bracket on the Pedders is wider than the stock one, which is one of the changes that allowed them to run 305s up front. I don't know if the BC one is the same as stock or a different dimension. I have seen a documentary about automotive batteries that said this. Multiple companies sent their own specs to one manufacturer who produced the batteries to those specs. I am willing to bet that is what happens at BC. They produce the coilovers, but to the specs provided by the companies.
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:50 PM   #89
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I have a battery powered impact gun that can do about 95% of the work load that I need it for. Might be an option and yes it worked for my front strut disassembly.

good luck
Thanks...my brother gave me the same advice a little while ago.

Will 200lbs of torque and 3000rpm do the job?

Or 350lbs of torque and up to 2100 rpm?

There are the two options I found between homedepot and lowes.
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Old 04-24-2014, 03:04 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danvillekidd View Post
If I remember correctly, there is a place for an allen key in the top of the shaft to hold it from turning. Don't know if that will give you enough leverage to get the nut removed or not.

I would like to make a comment on the op, even though I know it is quite old. Just because a company uses a second party to make their products for them, and they also make their own labeled products, doesn't mean they are made to the same specs. Proof is the rear coilover adjuster. The BC one comes straight up and requires a hole in the trunk. The Pedders one comes out the side and is adjusted from under the car. The front coilover clevis mount bracket on the Pedders is wider than the stock one, which is one of the changes that allowed them to run 305s up front. I don't know if the BC one is the same as stock or a different dimension. I have seen a documentary about automotive batteries that said this. Multiple companies sent their own specs to one manufacturer who produced the batteries to those specs. I am willing to bet that is what happens at BC. They produce the coilovers, but to the specs provided by the companies.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:44 PM   #91
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12/f 6/r from hard or soft?

Sorry if that's a dumb question, but I've read contradicting information.
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:25 PM   #92
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12/f 6/r from hard or soft?

Sorry if that's a dumb question, but I've read contradicting information.
Always gone from soft and I notice the difference and it lines up with the numbers I entered.
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Old 04-25-2015, 10:52 AM   #93
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Can anyone explain how I know what setting my dampeners are on and how I know if I'm going from an 8 to say a 12. Are there clicks as you turn to count?
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Old 04-25-2015, 11:13 AM   #94
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On the top of the knob will be some letters and arrows. S to the left H to the right. Turn each knob all the way to the left to zero it out. The turn back to the right. Each click is one level. You have to COUNT the clicks. I would suggest you start out at 12 front, and 9 rear.
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Old 04-25-2015, 11:55 AM   #95
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Can these be rebuilt?
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Old 04-25-2015, 02:55 PM   #96
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Yes, either with replacement part from BC, or there is a shop that does them for 75 per corner. Don't remember the name off hand.
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Old 04-25-2015, 03:26 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkscott View Post
On the top of the knob will be some letters and arrows. S to the left H to the right. Turn each knob all the way to the left to zero it out. The turn back to the right. Each click is one level. You have to COUNT the clicks. I would suggest you start out at 12 front, and 9 rear.
Thanks, got it figured out very easily!

What have people done to remedy occasional popping noises? Also I am only lowered about 1.2" and dont seem to have much space between the top of the tire and the wheel well to go lower. Nor does it seem on th coilover body that I have much space left for lowering?

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Old 04-30-2015, 09:20 PM   #98
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You should not have any poping noises. Check your preload....
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Last edited by bkscott; 05-03-2015 at 09:31 AM.
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