trailoring arms

[Larz29]

Would trailoring arms help my overall suspension performance? I'm considering buying a set for my car. Are they difficult to install?

[Apex Motorsports]

Rear trailing arms will increase traction and reduce wheel hop. For a more overall improvement I would suggest a good set of sway bars. Feel free to hit me up if you have any questions.

[BMR guy]

Apex Chase pretty much said it all. If you need to correct wheel hop issues or like to drag race frequently Trailing Arms would be my first mod. For an overall handling improvement you just can't beat a set of our Adjustable Sway Bars.


I would also consider a set of Polyurethane rear cradle bushings. These will stabilize the rear cradle much better than the OE flexible rubber bushings and let you get the most out of you suspension, stock or upgraded.

[axis]

Originally Posted by Larz29

Would trailoring arms help my overall suspension performance? I'm considering buying a set for my car. Are they difficult to install?

What else have you done? What are your goals? What is your power level? Why do you feel you need TA's?

While TA will help in several situations, there are upgrades that should be done BEFORE the TA's. If this is a daily driver only, there really is no NEED for TA's.

[Jaysin]

Trailoring arms will definitely help you haul more A$$.

[Larz29]

So far I have not done any suspension mods. Within the next 2 weeks, I'm going to buy a set of sway bars, and maybe cradle bushings. I heard the cradle bushings are extremly difficult to install, so I'll probalby only get the sway bars. I'm going to get some long tube headers w/cats as well, which will give me another 5-7 hp.

[BMR guy]

Originally Posted by Jaysin

Trailoring arms will definitely help you haul more A$$.

[BMR guy]

Originally Posted by Larz29

So far I have not done any suspension mods. Within the next 2 weeks, I'm going to buy a set of sway bars, and maybe cradle bushings. I heard the cradle bushings are extremly difficult to install, so I'll probalby only get the sway bars. I'm going to get some long tube headers w/cats as well, which will give me another 5-7 hp.

Cradle bushing inserts I would probably categorize with the sway bars in terms of degree of difficulty. They don't really require any special tools but take some time, patience, and an afternoon. Full Cradle Bushings are a different story, those require major labor, specialized tools, smashed fingers, cussing, etc., etc...!

[PfadtRacing]

Originally Posted by Larz29

So far I have not done any suspension mods. Within the next 2 weeks, I'm going to buy a set of sway bars, and maybe cradle bushings. I heard the cradle bushings are extremly difficult to install, so I'll probalby only get the sway bars. I'm going to get some long tube headers w/cats as well, which will give me another 5-7 hp.

Sway bars are a great way to improve the handling response and over all feel of your car. They obviously wont help you much with wheel hop issues, but will certainly provide you with more controlled handling in corners with minimum sacrifice to ride quality. What are your goals with regards to suspension modifications? A sway bar package is a great first step towards building a fun street car.

[Larz29]

Well first off I do like how the car handles, with the exception of a bit of body roll on hairpin off ramps and a little jittery. I've never had the car over 100, but want to make sure it will handle high speed well.

[Jaysin]

The cradle/subframe bushing inserts are a great first mod and that is probably the only mod you need to correct your issue. Not to mention they are extremely easy to install.

Drop your catback. Stock Exhaust Removal

Access to the subframe bushings

[RichJ.]

First suspension mod should be. Tighten up the fondation with Pedders sub fram bushing inserts for up to 500 rear wheel hp. For more HP than that go with full bushings or HD bushings. Then build more from that.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Jaysin

The cradle/subframe bushing inserts are a great first mod and that is probably the only mod you need to correct your issue. Not to mention they are extremely easy to install.

Drop your catback. Stock Exhaust Removal

Access to the subframe bushings

Excellent post!

Btw, unless you bend it in an accident you can't void the Pedders warranty

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Larz29

Well first off I do like how the car handles, with the exception of a bit of body roll on hairpin off ramps and a little jittery. I've never had the car over 100, but want to make sure it will handle high speed well.

The jittery is called rear end step out. It is caused by deflection in the four rubber bushes that mount the IRS to the monocoque.

Rear Sub-Frame Forward Bush / Bolt Area


Rear Sub-Frame Rear Bush / Bolt / Locating Post


The large bush in the right of these two pictures have a ferule that fits over the Locating Post. This not only centers the sub-frame, but anchors it much as a weld would to the monocoque. The movement in the rear sub-frame is relative to the voids in the the OEM rubber bushes. If the voids are filled with urethane inserts or the OE bushes replaced with higher durometer full urethane, movement of the rear sub-frame is virtually eliminated.




You can read more boyt the 5th Gen and Suspension modifications in this thread 5th Gen Suspension THE BOOK. Start with the low hanging fruit (sub-frame and radius bushes). While there are many choices for aftermarket arms and suspension braces, Pedders has found no need for them. These videos show Pedders 5th Gen on stock arms and no aftermarket chassis braces.





Were it my car I would put my money into bushes over arms, coilovers over sway bars and only add sway bars as a final tuning element. Oh, wait a minute. That is exactly what I did.