Easy way Install rear cradle bushings? anyone try this tool kit?

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by MojoBodies

Right temp?

That post was done via Google voice while driving. RideTech.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by 10' Camaro SC

What do these outboard mount sway bars with the lower control arms and endlinks cost?

JPSS Sway Bars http://www.jpssonline.com/#/jpss-black-magic-sway-bars/
JPSS Billet Radius Bushing Inserts http://www.jpssonline.com/#/jpss-billet-bushings/

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Over the years there have been a number of solutions offered and sold for the 5th Gen Camaro radius / brake tension arm. They deliver from the factory with a soft rubber insert. How soft? Way back when, the Camaro TEAM was working on the prototype 5th gen race car. They reached out to me for a set of steel jacketed radius bushing from the G8. Those were too small so we custom made them a set of bushings for the prototype. They didn't want to test that car on slicks with the soft OE rubber snubber.

We also made a couple of urethane inserts for them. The one that looked exactly like the OE rubber bushing, but was made out of dense urethane came from TEAM Camaro. The full face insert was designed by me one late night at my kitchen table. Both worked reasonably well, but the full face was better.

The new Z/28 delivers with a cast nylon insert. it is hard, but it is a clone of the original part. Since I am not constrained by anything other than my imagination and the ability of manufacturing to make it we are introducing Billet Bushings. Billet Bushings are cut with a water jet from Delrin or aluminum. They are machined and hand finished. Aluminum bushing are anodized our favorite color black magic.





You can see the difference in this side by side comparisson.



Do they work? I know have take off Z/28 parts sitting on my shelf. Some would argue that a spherical front bushing would deliver much better results. I would reply that they haven't driven on a JPSS Billet Bushing.

Why do they work so incredibly well? Because they limit the arm movement under braking, acceleration and when the car is in motion. This reduce the range of dynamic caster change delivering huge improvements in on center steering feel, direction control and turning.

We make 2010 to 2015 5th Gen Camaro Radius / Brake tension Arm Bushings out of Delrin and Aluminum. There is no discernible difference in performance. We make them in aluminum because they are so damn cool and some people want all the cool they can get.

www.JPSSonline.com

JPSS will be releasing a number of new products. Our Black magic 27 / 32mm Sway baars will be in stock in about three weeks. We should be final fitting our Knockout Camber Plates late next week. Our Quiet as OEM Adjustable Endlinks should be in stock in just a few days. Caster Locks are being anodized as I type this. JPSS Camber / Caster Eccentrics are in manufacturing and due in stock in 10 days or less. We are struggling to get tjhe price point right on our 5th Gen Knuckle Drops. Our project Z/28 Light is still in development along with our website. Please excuse our dust while we build you the finest parts we can imagine and manufacture.

[pheonix75]

Originally Posted by mhog

found Heat method video:

I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but great video helped me install my Anti-wheel Hop kit this weekend...6hrs total in my garage...most of the time spent jacking my car up in the air
Noticeable difference driving it! My tire life is going from 18.000 miles to 12,000 now!

[JusticePete]

There is no need to disassemble the arms or the sway bar. Jus use the jack and socket as shown with a heat source.

[KGoddard]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

The tool will work, but it isn't necessary.

Set the cat on jack stands
Place a floor jack under the diff and raise it to hold it in place
Remove both wheels
Remove all four sub-frame bolts, one at a time, and replace them with a 1/2 of thread. This leaves the sub-frame free to move.
Remove the lower shock bolts
Disconnect the sway bar endlinks
Remove one bolt and insert a socket between the ferule of the bushing and the 'frame'
Use a second jack to put pressure on the bushing by raising the jack on part of the sub-frame or an arm. You now have a press.
Lightly heat the sub-frame to release the glue that holds the bushing in place. Heat and add a pump to the jack, heat again, until it falls out.
Install the new bushing
Loosely install the bolt
Repeat

I know i am reviving an old thread here but i am going to being attempting this install in the coming weeks. Do i absolutely need a second jack or am i able to get away with using just one?

[larry_g]

If you don't plan on completely removing the subframe assembly, you'll really want two jacks. One to support the assembly under the differential and the other for pressing out the bushings.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by KGoddard

I know i am reviving an old thread here but i am going to being attempting this install in the coming weeks. Do i absolutely need a second jack or am i able to get away with using just one?

A second jack is by far the easiest way. I suppose you could use blocks or jacks stands is some combination, but it will take some creativity and more time. Maybe you can borrow a second floor jack?

[KGoddard]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

A second jack is by far the easiest way. I suppose you could use blocks or jacks stands is some combination, but it will take some creativity and more time. Maybe you can borrow a second floor jack?

Figured I'll just by a cheap one from harbor freight for $30

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[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by olblue75

What about NVH on solid bushings???

Minor. So minor, you won't notice.

[sixty9fordkiller]

reviving an old thread again.......does the subframe need to come completely out if im going with the detroit speed solid bushings?

[KGoddard]

Just recently did the Pegasus solid subframe bushings. Was able to do it without removing the whole cradle. I don't see why those would be any different.

Originally Posted by sixty9fordkiller

reviving an old thread again.......does the subframe need to come completely out if im going with the detroit speed solid bushings?

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[sixty9fordkiller]

the detroit speed bushings are 1 piece and i believe need to be pressed in

[Chris49066SS]

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540578

Heres my DIY. I did Pegasus solids. When you torque the bolts down, the bushings will be where they need to be. Solid cradle bushings all do the same thing. Having to "press" them in? Just take a look at my Diy and watch the video, and hopefully your questions will be answered.

You DON'T have to remove the cradle. Its way easier than that.

[sixty9fordkiller]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540578

Heres my DIY. I did Pegasus solids. When you torque the bolts down, the bushings will be where they need to be. Solid cradle bushings all do the same thing. Having to "press" them in? Just take a look at my Diy and watch the video, and hopefully your questions will be answered.

You DON'T have to remove the cradle. Its way easier than that.

Yeah i saw your DIY. Its gonna come in handy to remove the original bushings. Thanks.

My question is more specific to the DSE One piece solid bushings and someone that has installed them before. They press in. So my question about the cradle having to come completely off (as opposed to just lowering one side at a time and sllipping in the 2-piece bushings)