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Old 07-20-2014, 09:58 AM   #43
thahemp
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My car drops fuel pressure at WOT down to 40 PSI on cam only. That pushes the IDC up to almost 90%. No AFR problems just yet, but there is definitely no room to grow on my stock fuel setup. I can only imagine what your fuel pressure graph would look like at WOT.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:31 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by christianchevell View Post
you need to read the article on what's good to what h.p. on a gen five Camaro....in other words what breaks at what level....

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...parts_failure/

also if your going performance why not a real performance oil like driven racing ls30?

good luck to you, served over in Mannhiem once back in 81-83 infantry 2/13 and hhc 3rd bde 8th id s-4
That was an interesting read thanks for posting it.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:42 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by thahemp View Post
My car drops fuel pressure at WOT down to 40 PSI on cam only. That pushes the IDC up to almost 90%. No AFR problems just yet, but there is definitely no room to grow on my stock fuel setup. I can only imagine what your fuel pressure graph would look like at WOT.
Today, even curious of what the graph would look like...
I read the Fuel pressure through OBD. At cruising speed it says +/- 60 Psi.
At WOT it drops to 40.

If someone could explain technically what this means for the engine...
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:33 AM   #46
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That was an interesting read thanks for posting it.
X 2, really great read !

OP- Need to be very careful of people claiming credentials based on years in the industry/working on a type of product. I'm 48 and built a few high horsepower ( for the time) V8s 25-30 years ago. I would be capable of replacing OEM parts in any of today's engines, as would anyone with a mechanical background. That being said, it takes more than mechanical experience to push any engine past its' intended limits. I am not that guy anymore !!

There has always been some "gimme" performance that can be unlocked from a "stock" power train setup by bolting on, adjusting or taking off something. It's the safety margin built in by the OE to ensure the components last a reasonable amount of time. Most mass-produced mechanical products are designed with a cost/reliability model to match the end use for average service life/use in the market place. Why go to the expense of making stock internals good for 800 horsepower, when an output of 400 is required ? Keep cost down, sell more product, make maximum profit.

What has not changed and has been said in this tread a few times....the power train is a system and needs to be upgraded accordingly IE supporting mods. Another constant that will NEVER change is that when you push the envelope, things are going to break ! It's not a question of IF, it's WHEN. Go to any racetrack in the world and regardless of the type of racing, you will see mechanical failure. Staying just a c*** hair on this side of breaking was always the rush for me. Good luck with your car !

This was a great thread to read and I applaud all of you for "playing the game" Sorry for the long post, I'm going to go outside, wash my stock 1LS and go for a cruise
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:49 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by johandepuydt View Post
Today, even curious of what the graph would look like...
I read the Fuel pressure through OBD. At cruising speed it says +/- 60 Psi.
At WOT it drops to 40.

If someone could explain technically what this means for the engine...
There are a lot of variables. I'm dropping pressure, but I still have enough injector left to make up for it. They spray longer to make up for the lack of pressure. My AFR doesn't stray even at 40 PSI instead of 58 PSI where it should be. I'm only approaching the limit though. If your injectors can't stay open long enough to keep your AFR where it belongs, then you will have problems.
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Old 07-20-2014, 12:26 PM   #48
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Here is a picture of a WOT pull on mine showing the fuel pressure drop for reference. It gets down to about 38 PSI at 6800 RPM and 88% injector duty cycle. There is a little KR in there too, but this was at the end of winter and I think I was dealing with bad, winter-blend gas.

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Old 07-22-2014, 04:32 PM   #49
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You said you 2 had the same mods but he left ur ass when he took off
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:55 PM   #50
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You said you 2 had the same mods but he left ur ass when he took off
I did not go WOT.
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:16 AM   #51
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Right on

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:03 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by christianchevell View Post
you need to read the article on whats good to what h.p. on a gen five Camaro....in other words what breaks at what level....

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...parts_failure/
Good read. Food for thought going forward. Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:32 AM   #53
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Sorry to hear and see,but pay to play. Been there and car now sits until Winter when a complete new build goes in. #5 Rod and or Piston went first and took out entire motor The weakest link won and dumbazz here lost but it sure was a fun 2yrs until then
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:41 AM   #54
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I would not go WOT until you've talked to a stronger tune/builder for FI like Matt Sorian or Don Kinder (and many others) to figure out the best fueling system for your car. >600RWHP on a stock fuel pump is not safe.
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:26 AM   #55
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I would not go WOT until you've talked to a stronger tune/builder for FI like Matt Sorian or Don Kinder (and many others) to figure out the best fueling system for your car. >600RWHP on a stock fuel pump is not safe.
Check
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:05 AM   #56
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I ordered the Aeromotive A1000 Eliminator fuel pump.
Is it hard to install a new pump?
I mean, is it hard to get the gas tank out?
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