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Old 02-22-2014, 05:24 PM   #29
RaySouth
 
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Cobalt pads

TBone, having used these pads, what do you use for your road race set up?
The cobalt website recommends the xr1 and xr2 combination. Anthony at lg recommended the xr1 and xr3 combo.

PS:

Your sig says:

Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different.
I can't wait for my next Track fix.

I could not agree more as my last road America track day high lasted at least a month.

Ray South
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:52 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by TBone View Post
Ray,

You can also order directly from CB, http://www.cobaltfriction.com/Search...s.asp?Cat=2478 .

I never came back to say these are really good pads. They stop our cars phenomenally well but, like other pads, if you are hard on them they wear quickly. Not a bad thing just a thing. These have helped knock a few seconds off lap times because you can go deeeper into the braking zones. Very nice pads.

Another positive is that Andie Lin has gone above and beyond for me at times when I have needed pads quickly, usually because of my forgetfulness. He is their Director of motorsports R&D and even has a post or two on here. Great guy and will do what he can for you. Not to take away anything from the guys at LG,.

T.
Don't know how long you have been working with Andie, but we have been since approx late '04 into '05 and have not used any other brake pad since then. Seriously, THE best pad we have ever had on a race car. That doesn't even come into how helpful Andie has been on doing custom sets for us over the years on different race car projects.

We brought Andie into the World Challenge cars in 2005, and by 2008 almost all of the teams had switched over they were that good.
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:27 PM   #31
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What daily driver pads are compatible with their compounds so I wouldn't need to turn the rotor or swap rotors every track day?
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:44 PM   #32
TBone
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Ray,

That is going to depend on you I suppose. Which run group do you drive with? If you are in the intermediate or advanced group then you need a faster pad. At a minimum XR1 in front and then it is up to you on the rear but you can't go wrong with either. But it really depends on your experience and aggressiveness. Also keep in mind the high speeds we see at RA.

Anthony,

You could not be more right.

Synner,

Track pads are made for the track, Street pads for the street. They should never, IMO, NOT be swapped for a track day. Besides, it only takes about a half hour.

T.
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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same.
Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different.
I can't wait for my next
Track fix.
DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!!
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:57 PM   #33
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Synner,

Track pads are made for the track, Street pads for the street. They should never, IMO, NOT be swapped for a track day. Besides, it only takes about a half hour.

T.
Thats why I'm asking for compatible everyday pad types that can be swapped out for these without a rotor turning or swap headache. Pad swaps would only add 5 minutes since I bleed my brakes before every track day but I have no interest in dismounting the caliper to swap out rotors.
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:27 PM   #34
TBone
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I had this whole long reply ready to go only to realize I misread your post.

Kudos to you for bleeding every time. Most people on here don't seem to understand that one.

I have actually been running Carbotechs Bobcat's (1521's I think) on the street. I just do a quick scuff of the rotors with some sandpaper and after a few quick stops no issues. I ran DBA 4000's for two years, street and track, with no issues.

T.
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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same.
Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different.
I can't wait for my next
Track fix.
DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!!
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:54 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
Thats why I'm asking for compatible everyday pad types that can be swapped out for these without a rotor turning or swap headache. Pad swaps would only add 5 minutes since I bleed my brakes before every track day but I have no interest in dismounting the caliper to swap out rotors.
The bleed is so crucial!! I have done it midway through hotter and faster track/race days. I see no reason to not switch pads out for track. A cheap mod that is faster AND safer...
A good scuff with steel wool and sand paper combined with a mini bed of a few stops will be all you need.
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:26 PM   #36
TBone
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AMEN!!!!

Man, all this talk and I am jones for a track day.

T.
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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same.
Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different.
I can't wait for my next
Track fix.
DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!!
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Old 02-27-2014, 11:06 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPCBA View Post
The bleed is so crucial!! I have done it midway through hotter and faster track/race days. I see no reason to not switch pads out for track. A cheap mod that is faster AND safer...
A good scuff with steel wool and sand paper combined with a mini bed of a few stops will be all you need.
I completely agree as well.

As far as I have seen Hawks and Cobalts do not mix to well...some of the PFC doesn't mate well either. The OEM pads have not been much of a problem in the past though.

Always, always, always make sure you have good fluid in the car and fresh fluid in the calipers before the weekend starts.
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Old 02-27-2014, 11:21 AM   #38
jessrayo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony @ LG Motorsports View Post

... Hawks and Cobalts do not mix to well...some of the PFC doesn't mate well either.
This is the exact problem with swapping pads at the track, unless you resurface the rotor and re-bed, some of the pad compound is embedded in the rotor metal. If the pad compounds are not compatible you will not get good braking until you resurface the rotor. You can use trial and error to see if you can make a street and race pad work together or....just leave the race pad on the car. No matter how you look at it, it will stop best if the race pad is fully bedded into the rotor.
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