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Old 10-25-2013, 12:11 AM   #1
WarWolfX0
 
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Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS/RS 1LE Manual
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Park Ridge
Posts: 114
Cool DIY: RX Catch Can upgrade $30

So I have a RX catch can and always wanted to have AN fitting on it.
After having the PCV valve brake off 2 times,
I decided to work on my catch can and put an fittings on it.
FYI don't use carb cleaner to clean the can. Most of the paint melted off
around the ports. Also don't use MAP gas to burn off the plastic right angle hose pipe. This also removes the PCV valve from the can, but you could put one inline if you want, but i don't think you need one at all.

And you can easily mess up your can by doing this. If you have never used a tap and die, don't do this.
Aluminum is very soft and you can strip it.
This is not reversible.

Parts
6an 90 degree swivel hose end fitting $20.26
6an Male to 1/4" NPT straight $3.82
6an aluminium weld-in bung $4.99
Loctite (optional)

Tools
Vise
M10x1.0 tap and Die
Large counter sink
8.5mm drill bit
drill
pliers


1. Remove the plastic right angle hose pipe (yes you need to break it off) don't break aluminium tube.
I took it off with a propane/MAP (ran out of propane and used MAP gas) this did damage the paint
As you can see. I would use a hot knife, or pliers and work at it. Use painter tape to protect the paint.

2. After you got the plastic off you can see that the aluminium pipe is bent outward at the top (sorry no photo)
I decide to cut that off as you can see in photo 1 (I forgot to take a picture and mocked this one up)
I think I could of left it on and still be ok.

2. I then used my vise to squish the v out of the nipple. (photo2)
I took the can and twisted it in the vise and slowly added more clamping pressure to straighten it out.

3. Then I die it (photo 3) (tap and die)
I used a M10X1.0 die (a M10x1.5 may work also, the bigger thread in the 1.5 might cut to deep) to cut a thread on the pipe
I had to use a lot of down force to prevent striping the new treads.
You can't go all the way to the bottom. You need to stop at the top of the weld, (photo 4)
You can mess this up if you go too far and strip the thread. (Then you will need to use JB weld to bond the bung)
fyi make sure you get all the metal shaving out of the can.

4. Time for the bung (photo 5)
Yes it is called a bung.
Put the bung in the vise; don't put it in on the threads, use the outer sleeve.
Using a large countersink that I had, I drilled out the bottom so the bung could sit flush (photo6)
The photo show a 1mm ledge around the outside, I had to modified the bung to drill all the way to the Edge. It kind of made a cookie cutter boarder, sharp(no photo). Do this all the way to the edge first
because I had to re-tap the hole after I countersink it again.
You could skip this step but you bung would not be flush.

5. Enlarging the bung.
Since the hole was a bit too small (6mm) to tap an m10, I had to enlarge it to 8.5mm (Larger then 8mm but smaller then 9mm) I used a caliper to find a bit the right size bit. (Photo 7a)
Now I didn't drill straight though. I stopped 2 mm before the top, (fyi drilling thought the bottom) as you can see in photo 7b (yes is it crooked).
I didn't want to affect the seal on the other side. (it could be OK if you went straight thought)

6. Tap the bung (photo8)
Remember I didn't drill thought so I have to stop before I hit the ledge.

7. Assemble (photo 9)
Well if you didn't screw up you should be able to screw on the new Aluminium Weld-In Bung 6AN fitting on (I would put on some Loctite),
and use pliers to tighten it. Remember it is aluminium and you can strip the threads, so not too tight. As you can see in photo 10
The new top sits flush.

8. 2nd hole
I destroyed the thread on the other side by putting the wrong size it but to the best of my knowledge it was a 1/4" NPT
I bought a -6an to 1/4" NPT adapter and was able to screw it in and I put some lock tight (blue stuff) on it to make it fit.
Remember NPT is tapered and it will get harder to turn the close it gets.
Don’t screw the end all the way down to the hex; there is a lip that might go passed. Now you have 2x an fitting on your can.

9. Finishing
I bought 2x 90 degree -6an to hose connectors to put on top (photo 11/12)
They also have a 1/4 NTP to 90 hose but it costs more I think it was at least $14
Which is the same as the 2 pieces that I got together. This way looks better.
The 6an hose fitting fit a 3/8IN.ID. hose

10. The other side
I also replaced the drain valve with a 1/4" ball valve and 1/4" hose adapter that I got from home depot in the air hose section.
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Last edited by WarWolfX0; 11-03-2013 at 10:24 PM.
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