09-11-2010, 06:38 PM | #15 |
BAMF SS
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my fronts i run at 36 psi
my rears at 32 psi... this is because I have a wider tire in the rear, with the same aspect ratio. I lowered it so I would have an even contact patch across the tire. If I didn't, the center of my tire would wear faster than the outside
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09-11-2010, 06:44 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2013 1LT Crystal Red/Beige Manual Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stoneham, MA
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i just put all 4 of mine (19" stock) back to 37 psi. Compared to my last car, these tires are SIGNIFICANTLY less low-profile. So I'll go with the slightly harsher ride to get some better gas milage.
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09-14-2010, 04:52 PM | #17 |
Drives: 1-800-428-8355 X4664 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: rudy@tirerack.com
Posts: 1,186
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The Door Sticker is the best place to start. Some spritied drivers add a couple of pounds for better handling but this will cause the ride to stiffen. Here is a link from Tire Rack regarding air pressue.
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09-14-2010, 04:58 PM | #18 | |
Quote:
You may have more of an even contact patch, but the tire is not operating in the pressure/temperature it needs to give the best handling. /Erik |
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09-14-2010, 05:56 PM | #19 |
SoCal C5 Family Member
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Posts: 5,299
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Ok, so related question: when driving on the track - not drag racing - should you increase the pressure or decrease? By how much?
When I ride my motorcycle on the track, I always remove 3-4 lbs per tire, then after the 1st session, recheck and fill or let more out. I've seen some people add air when I think that's the opposite based on heat buildup. Some track classes have also said to increase pressure. Thanks!
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2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers; |
09-15-2010, 11:10 AM | #20 | |
Quote:
With my Nitto's I usually start at 30/31, and adjust after a few laps depending on temps and pressure. My Toyo's get hotter so usually start about 29/30. But everyday at the track is different, ambient temperature, humidity, driving style, suspension set-up, alignment etc all play a factor in it so where the final number is always the same for a certain tire, the starting pressure could be different every time. |
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09-15-2010, 12:57 PM | #21 |
SoCal C5 Family Member
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Posts: 5,299
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Thanks Erik...I'll start lower and check from there!
9/22 Willow Springs, CA!
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2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers; |
09-15-2010, 01:18 PM | #22 |
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