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Old 11-30-2008, 06:39 PM   #51
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as much of an investment as a relationship/marriage.... if not more.
Way to set the bar low.
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she really underestimates the damage i would do to her reproductive organs
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Old 11-30-2008, 07:23 PM   #52
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That said, why the heck would someone put 10w30 in an engine designed for 5w20? I would think that it's obvious to most people that the engine may not be capable of moving the thicker oil fast enough...but I'm no engine engineer, so I can't say that I'm SURE of that idea. I just know that they have a lot to lose by specifying less than the perfect oil weight; a reputation for early engine failure will destroy sales quickly, so what the manual specifies is almost certainly the right weight.
Well the answer to that is simple MOST people Who Are NOT car enthusiests either dont . A) CARE. B) KNOW. Or C) are just to STUPID to look.

Most The Ones I Deal With Are a combination of A) and B).


And Then there are the ones who have
""just always done it that way, and its never hurt it before..""
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In light of the recent comments concerning Camaro, and the increased excitement as it finally comes to market, please take a moment and read the following closely;

Remember- "It ain't ready 'til it's ready!" Just because we show it to you early, doesn’t mean it’s ready.
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Old 11-30-2008, 08:35 PM   #53
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Way to set the bar low.
well, look at how much time and money we put into our cars, and look at how much time and money goes into a lasting relationship...

I paid more for the rock on her hand than I have put into all of my cars over the years.
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:29 AM   #54
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Old 12-01-2008, 02:27 PM   #55
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I just found out that I get free oil changes for life from the dealer. Since the SS takes 7 some odd quarts of very pricey mobile 1, I'll be taking it to the dealer.
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Old 12-01-2008, 02:33 PM   #56
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I just found out that I get free oil changes for life from the dealer. Since the SS takes 7 some odd quarts of very pricey mobile 1, I'll be taking it to the dealer.
Check the fine print on that offer...Our local Ford dealer has the same type of offer but it is only valid for non-synthetic oil changes and does not apply to engines that use synthetic oil and/or diesel engines.
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Old 12-01-2008, 09:02 PM   #57
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Well..I'm not interested in fuel economy for this car, nor will I operate it in the winter, so I am definately going to run 10w30 not 5w30.
I will lose a small amount of hp, but 5w30 is too thin for performance usage. The only reason for running 5w oil is to boost fuel economy or hp or if you live in the arctic.

I will stick with synthetic, because synthetic is a better lubricant due to the long chain molecules and purity of the base product.
I will either use Lucas, or Amsoil or Mobil. I am not an amsoil religion person, but if you look at the comparisons, no lubricant supplier will claim superiority to Amsoil.
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:19 PM   #58
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I saw the question raised in the first post but didn't see an answer to it yet (or atleast I overlooked it)...... Since the engine is coming from the factory with synthetic already in it, does that mean they are seating the pistons right off the assembly line? Just curious if I need to take out the synthetic for the break-in period and then re-aply the synthethic after 1000 miles.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:32 PM   #59
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I will do my own oil changes and service. Just going to be summer driver and will most likely use a synthetic oil. After break in. As for synthetic vs conventional they both get dirty so spend more every 3000 or spend less every 3000. I have used conventional on my Nova (420 hp 400 lb-ft) for the past 10 years and had no problems. Let your driving conditions and wallet decide. My 2 cents.
Filter Wix all the way or (NAPA Gold) same same.

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Old 12-02-2008, 02:59 AM   #60
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What do ya'll think of that Mobil 1 "Extended Performance" Synthetic. It's supposed to be good for 15,000 miles. That seems like an awful long time to go between oil changes, but that's what they claim! I've been using it in my Silverado for some time now with good results, but the "change oil" idiot light still comes on at about 4-5000 miles. I don't usually let it go any longer than that. Sure would be nice to go 15,000 miles, but I don't want to take the chance. At $6-7 a quart, it is comparable to the AMSOIL and RP, but just wondering if there is any truth to the 15K claim. Any thoughts?
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:17 AM   #61
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Mobil 1 Extended Performance has a unique formulation with a boosted level of protection and performance. Mobil 1 Extended Performance, with the Advanced SuperSyn System, contains 50 percent more SuperSyn than Mobil 1. (Updated March 2006)
So, I believe it has boosted detergents and will maintain viscosity better with "Advanced" SuperSyn System.

I couldn't do it. It won't remove tiny metal particles that build up in the oil pan.

Corvette Forum has several informative threads on this topic, regarding the LS3.

People that waited more than 5000 miles, found excessive amounts of metal particles in the pan. Use a magnetic drain plug too. The later LS3's come with them from the factory.
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:55 AM   #62
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Well..I'm not interested in fuel economy for this car, nor will I operate it in the winter, so I am definately going to run 10w30 not 5w30.
I will lose a small amount of hp, but 5w30 is too thin for performance usage. The only reason for running 5w oil is to boost fuel economy or hp or if you live in the arctic.
There is one other reason: Because the engine is designed to run reliably on 5w30. Using 10w30 instead, your cold starts are going to be starved of oil longer until the oil warms up and can be circulated properly. You might want to reconsider.

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Originally Posted by blazzin1 View Post
What do ya'll think of that Mobil 1 "Extended Performance" Synthetic. It's supposed to be good for 15,000 miles. That seems like an awful long time to go between oil changes, but that's what they claim!
That is an awfully long time. VW manual says 10,000 miles and requires VW-approved oil for their cars, and that seems to work, so I suppose it's not impossible. However, I personally wouldn't deviate too far from the manufacturers recommendation.

For sure, anyone looking to keep their warranty valid is well advised to do exactly what the manual says and document it as much as possible.

Quote:
I've been using it in my Silverado for some time now with good results, but the "change oil" idiot light still comes on at about 4-5000 miles.
Your (and my) truck's "change oil" light would come on at the same time no matter what oil you use -- SAE 30 from the dollar store, Mobil 1 Extended Performance synthetic, Amsoil, Quaker State Q-power, Royal Purple, transmission fluid, or diluted axle grease. It doesn't measure the oil in any way. It is basically a counter that runs faster when RPM is high, temperature is high, etc, and slower when you go easier on the engine. It uses existing data to compute when you're due for an oil change.
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Old 12-02-2008, 09:00 AM   #63
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Good info to know, thank you. I thought it measured the viscosity of your oil somehow. Guess I was wrong. Thanks for the tip. But, still it doesn't quite make sense because if remember correctly, if I reset the light without changing the oil, the oil light comes back on after a few start ups. Weird! I'll have to verify that next time my light comes on.
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Old 12-02-2008, 09:49 AM   #64
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15k between oil changes seem way to long. The oil lubricating properties may not break down, but the oil would be filled with metal by then and cause a lot more wear. I used Mobil 1 and Red Line in the past with a truck I used for heavy towing (14K +) and went well over 100k before selling for a new one and never had any engine failures. If you go say 6k between oil changes then at least change your filter every 3k with a high quality filter.

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Old 12-02-2008, 10:34 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theholycow View Post

That said, why the heck would someone put 10w30 in an engine designed for 5w20? I would think that it's obvious to most people that the engine may not be capable of moving the thicker oil fast enough...but I'm no engine engineer, so I can't say that I'm SURE of that idea. I just know that they have a lot to lose by specifying less than the perfect oil weight; a reputation for early engine failure will destroy sales quickly, so what the manual specifies is almost certainly the right weight.
Oh, and a car isn't an investment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VICTORY RED 1SS View Post
Well..I'm not interested in fuel economy for this car, nor will I operate it in the winter, so I am definately going to run 10w30 not 5w30.
I will lose a small amount of hp, but 5w30 is too thin for performance usage. The only reason for running 5w oil is to boost fuel economy or hp or if you live in the arctic.

I will stick with synthetic, because synthetic is a better lubricant due to the long chain molecules and purity of the base product.
I will either use Lucas, or Amsoil or Mobil. I am not an amsoil religion person, but if you look at the comparisons, no lubricant supplier will claim superiority to Amsoil.
thats cus amsoil isnt API certified on their oil. other companies dont have to fight with someone who fudges the tests in their favor.


now as for the 10w30 vs 5w30..... damn, im glad im on this site

as far as "thicker" oils vs "thinner" oils (which isnt really true, because thicker doesnt always mean higher viscosity, just as thinner doesnt always mean lower viscosity. thinner/thicker has to be taken in account with viscosity, flow rate, and shear strength):

take 5w-30 vs 10w-30
some people think
5+30=35
10+30=40

DONT EVER DO THIS. this is stupid math.

the first number is the flow characteristic in like 32f the 10w means that it flows better at 32f/0c. so if you live in a colder climate, a 5w oil would be better for start up conditions. as for the other number, that is for the operating temp flow characteristic.
however, the differences are minimal and are so close in ambient flow rates that its a toss-up.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Eighty-Six Z View Post
I saw the question raised in the first post but didn't see an answer to it yet (or atleast I overlooked it)...... Since the engine is coming from the factory with synthetic already in it, does that mean they are seating the pistons right off the assembly line? Just curious if I need to take out the synthetic for the break-in period and then re-aply the synthethic after 1000 miles.

Thanks in advance.
you can break in motors with synthetic oil. in fact a lot of synth oil companies are coming out with synth oil specially designed for break-in procedures. as for the motor from the factory... the rings will be seated before it hits the show room floor. feel free to romp the hell out of it out of the dealer parking lot.



Quote:
Originally Posted by blazzin1 View Post
Good info to know, thank you. I thought it measured the viscosity of your oil somehow. Guess I was wrong. Thanks for the tip. But, still it doesn't quite make sense because if remember correctly, if I reset the light without changing the oil, the oil light comes back on after a few start ups. Weird! I'll have to verify that next time my light comes on.
the sensors for the oil measure the viscosity and flow and temp of the oil to get a reading on how well it is still lubricating/cleaning/cooling your motor and judges how much life is expected out of it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GrnMchin View Post
15k between oil changes seem way to long. The oil lubricating properties may not break down, but the oil would be filled with metal by then and cause a lot more wear. I used Mobil 1 and Red Line in the past with a truck I used for heavy towing (14K +) and went well over 100k before selling for a new one and never had any engine failures. If you go say 6k between oil changes then at least change your filter every 3k with a high quality filter.
mileage is no longer the major factor in oil changes. as synth oil and filter technology increases, engines are becoming cleaner and are operating at closer tolerances which allow for less blow-by, less oil consumption, and better oil performance.



http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=oil+viscosity
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Nobody makes CamaroSpike happy. You just disgust him a little less than other people.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:41 AM   #66
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oh....and....
Quote:
Originally Posted by theholycow View Post

Oh, and a car isn't an investment.
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Nobody makes CamaroSpike happy. You just disgust him a little less than other people.

Quote:
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Read that link that Spike posted, it'll tell you everything you need to know.
Quote:
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Post count is truly an accurate measure of how cool someone is on the Internet.
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Originally Posted by Greg Norris View Post
I piss excellence
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Nobody makes CamaroSpike happy. You just disgust him a little less than other people.
"You can think I'm wrong, but that's no reason to quit thinking.”
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But not all people were born awesome like you, Spike.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:56 AM   #67
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I agree that mileage is no longer a factor, but oil synthetic or not still get dirty and the filter should be changed for extended life oil. Even when the wear is minimal I would rather have a filter change as insurance other wise why have a filter at all. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Still like to change my oil every 3k, just for the simple reason stated above. If I change my filter it's not that much more to drain the pan. For about half of my cars the ones that I dive in the summer that's may one or two a year. My daily drives about four or five a year.

Last edited by GrnMchin; 12-02-2008 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:59 AM   #68
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Thanks for the good info.
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:28 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23 View Post
thats cus amsoil isnt API certified on their oil. other companies dont have to fight with someone who fudges the tests in their favor.


now as for the 10w30 vs 5w30..... damn, im glad im on this site

as far as "thicker" oils vs "thinner" oils (which isnt really true, because thicker doesnt always mean higher viscosity, just as thinner doesnt always mean lower viscosity. thinner/thicker has to be taken in account with viscosity, flow rate, and shear strength):

take 5w-30 vs 10w-30
some people think
5+30=35
10+30=40

DONT EVER DO THIS. this is stupid math.

the first number is the flow characteristic in like 32f the 10w means that it flows better at 32f/0c. so if you live in a colder climate, a 5w oil would be better for start up conditions. as for the other number, that is for the operating temp flow characteristic.
however, the differences are minimal and are so close in ambient flow rates that its a toss-up.





you can break in motors with synthetic oil. in fact a lot of synth oil companies are coming out with synth oil specially designed for break-in procedures. as for the motor from the factory... the rings will be seated before it hits the show room floor. feel free to romp the hell out of it out of the dealer parking lot.





the sensors for the oil measure the viscosity and flow and temp of the oil to get a reading on how well it is still lubricating/cleaning/cooling your motor and judges how much life is expected out of it.



mileage is no longer the major factor in oil changes. as synth oil and filter technology increases, engines are becoming cleaner and are operating at closer tolerances which allow for less blow-by, less oil consumption, and better oil performance.



http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=oil+viscosity
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:29 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23 View Post
the sensors for the oil measure the viscosity and flow and temp of the oil to get a reading on how well it is still lubricating/cleaning/cooling your motor and judges how much life is expected out of it.
That's what those sensors would do if they were present in a vehicle, but his 2001 Silverado and my 2002 Sierra don't have it. In fact, AFAIK, most or all GM vehicles do NOT have the sensors. GM oil lights come on based on driving conditions measurable by existing sensors -- engine temperature, RPM, maybe IAT, TPS, etc.

I think I read somewhere that Chrysler's system does measure the oil viscosity and such. IIRC, it uses electric conductivity of the oil to measure how much life remains.

From http://www.goodwrench.com/Services/OilChange.jsp
Quote:
Most GM vehicles are now equipped with the GM Oil Life System. This system actually senses your vehicle's speed and engine temperature and can continuously monitor operating conditions. This helps determine when it's time to change the oil.

This system can actually monitor your personal driving habits and your area's climate condition to let you know precisely when to come in for a Goodwrench Oil Change.
What they don't say there, but do say in the manual, is that it can't account for stuff it can't measure -- for example, operation in dirty/dusty conditions. In those cases it is recommended to change the oil sooner. It also can't account for different oil than what is specified, so if your oil doesn't at least meet the specifications in your manual, change sooner than the light comes on...and if your oil is better, you won't know the best time to change it.
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she really underestimates the damage i would do to her reproductive organs
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:40 AM   #71
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We're all glad you're here.

lol I do what I can.


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Read that link that Spike posted, it'll tell you everything you need to know.
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Nobody makes CamaroSpike happy. You just disgust him a little less than other people.
"You can think I'm wrong, but that's no reason to quit thinking.”
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:58 AM   #72
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It's likely the manual is going to say to use oil that complies with GM41xxx whatever. I will find an oil that does so. If it's synthetic that's likely to be Mobile 1 and I'm good with that.

I will then use the DIC display and change the oil when it says 25% per the recommendation of the dealer.

I will do this at a dealer until the warranty expires.

I trust my dealer to do an oil change or I would never buy from that dealer. Why would you ever buy a car from a dealer that you don't trust to do the most basic of engine maintenance? I know there are horror stories about dry-sump vettes and such on this site, but for this car (without a dry-sump) it makes no sense to be this paranoid.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:02 PM   #73
radz28
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I'll be doing all my own servicing unless there is something super special the car requires. I figure if I can replace clutches/torque converters and tinker with most of the rest of the car, filter, fluid, and lubing won't be too big a deal for me. I like to use that time to make make sure everything under the car is in good condition too. I don't really need a dealer to tell me if I have a bad hose or belt. I haven't had the greatest experience at dealers either but I haven't been to all of them so I'm not going to judge by a couple experiences.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:03 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by MrIcky View Post
It's likely the manual is going to say to use oil that complies with GM41xxx whatever. I will find an oil that does so. If it's synthetic that's likely to be Mobile 1 and I'm good with that.

I will then use the DIC display and change the oil when it says 25% per the recommendation of the dealer.

I will do this at a dealer until the warranty expires.

I trust my dealer to do an oil change or I would never buy from that dealer. Why would you ever buy a car from a dealer that you don't trust to do the most basic of engine maintenance? I know there are horror stories about dry-sump vettes and such on this site, but for this car (without a dry-sump) it makes no sense to be this paranoid.

it will be coming with M1 in both the Auto and the manual (motors) as for the trans fluid and gear lube...

GM's got some trick fluid for the auto that should never need replacing.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:19 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by MrIcky View Post
I trust my dealer to do an oil change or I would never buy from that dealer. Why would you ever buy a car from a dealer that you don't trust to do the most basic of engine maintenance? I know there are horror stories about dry-sump vettes and such on this site, but for this car (without a dry-sump) it makes no sense to be this paranoid.
I don't dislike my dealer, I just like doing the simple things myself on my schedule. Some times the person changing oil at the dealership is the low guy who may or may not like his job or take the extra care needed. Had a car long time ago that every time it went to the dealer they had to fix the ground effects and buff the scratches out. About the 3rd time of the same thing happening and repeated warnings started doing my own oil changes while still under warranty.
And don't do business with that dealership any more if it can be avoided.
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