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Old 09-20-2010, 06:26 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klatterblast View Post
it looks good but would look great without mud flaps, sorry not trying to be an ass but it just looks funny with em
Hey didn't you read the GM accessories brochure? Those are not mud flaps they are Quarter Flares. Seriously though I love how much they cut down on the amount of road grime kicked up on the side of my car. She is a daily driver so anything that helps keep her clean is a bonus and I don't mind the look. I would prefer to go with ground effects but I have not seen one that really does it for me. I may end up with a combo of some sort.
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:49 PM   #27
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Now that it has been a couple of months. What do you think of the coilovers now? Any difference in opinion good or bad?
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:48 AM   #28
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Now that it has been a couple of months. What do you think of the coilovers now? Any difference in opinion good or bad?
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:20 PM   #29
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Another interested person. Anyone else run BC products?
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:16 PM   #30
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I just got a set today. How does the OP like them after a few months of use? Any issues?
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:51 PM   #31
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The only issue I had was the rear coilover adjustment. I did not want to drill the holes in the trunk for the extenders. Ride and handling were very good with over 15,000 miles of daily driving. Without the extenders on, was more work to adjust the strut.
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Old 04-03-2011, 01:02 PM   #32
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Sorry I've been neglecting this page. After months with these on I still love them I have them set to 8 clicks from hardest on the front (stock stiffness per BC) and 2 harder on the rear. I like the ride but I do have to slow down over speed bumps. I have scraped my front quarter flares a lot! With these settings the car seems very balanced. When the curvy roads are a bit wet the car will slide equally front and back. Its pretty nice since I can power steer her a little bit. I keep the traction control on but have played with it in competition mode and get similar handling. It gets a lot more loose though if I over apply the power. I have since added BMR trailing arms which has made a big difference in the wheel hop.
I still need to upgrade the sway bars. My hope is that I will be able to soften up the ride even more after doing this. I'll be talking to BMR soon!
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Old 07-14-2011, 02:31 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dion_1969 View Post
Sorry I've been neglecting this page. After months with these on I still love them I have them set to 8 clicks from hardest on the front (stock stiffness per BC) and 2 harder on the rear. I like the ride but I do have to slow down over speed bumps. I have scraped my front quarter flares a lot! With these settings the car seems very balanced. When the curvy roads are a bit wet the car will slide equally front and back. Its pretty nice since I can power steer her a little bit. I keep the traction control on but have played with it in competition mode and get similar handling. It gets a lot more loose though if I over apply the power. I have since added BMR trailing arms which has made a big difference in the wheel hop.
I still need to upgrade the sway bars. My hope is that I will be able to soften up the ride even more after doing this. I'll be talking to BMR soon!
Glad to hear it! Let us know if you ever have any issues!

We are still looking for another Camaro5 Review if anyone is interested!
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Old 07-14-2011, 04:45 PM   #34
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I'm considering these. Especially if it's true that they are the same as Pedders Xa. I haven't bought any yet but hopefully I'll get some on before I do another AutoX event in a couple months.
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:46 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by caverman View Post
I'm considering these. Especially if it's true that they are the same as Pedders Xa. I haven't bought any yet but hopefully I'll get some on before I do another AutoX event in a couple months.
We highly recommend these. We sell these every single day for the GTO and G8s which are comparable in weight and suspension. People absolutely love them. Pedders had an exclusive contract with BC Racing, however that ran out last year and so did the high retail price.
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Old 08-28-2011, 05:18 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dion_1969 View Post
Sorry I've been neglecting this page. After months with these on I still love them I have them set to 8 clicks from hardest on the front (stock stiffness per BC) and 2 harder on the rear. I like the ride but I do have to slow down over speed bumps. I have scraped my front quarter flares a lot! With these settings the car seems very balanced. When the curvy roads are a bit wet the car will slide equally front and back. Its pretty nice since I can power steer her a little bit. I keep the traction control on but have played with it in competition mode and get similar handling. It gets a lot more loose though if I over apply the power. I have since added BMR trailing arms which has made a big difference in the wheel hop.
I still need to upgrade the sway bars. My hope is that I will be able to soften up the ride even more after doing this. I'll be talking to BMR soon!
Glad to hear it! Keep us updated!
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Old 08-28-2011, 05:33 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Dion_1969 View Post
Thanks! I don't know if that all is considered unsprung weight. Seems like most of it should be. She is nice and low now and there was room to go. I went 1 1/2 lower in the front and 1 3/4 in the rear.
One thing I should have mentioned was the instructions from BC. They s#ck! They read like someone using a really crappy Chinese to English dictionary translated them. You would think they would have someone who speaks English review the translation. Here is a sample "This instruction is belong to whom uses the product latest" It didn't get any better from there!


Ok about the drill thing.....you need to make a hole in the back to reach where you can adjust? There isn't some other way? Like another part to order that attaches to skip the drilling?
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:47 PM   #38
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Ok about the drill thing.....you need to make a hole in the back to reach where you can adjust? There isn't some other way? Like another part to order that attaches to skip the drilling?

The BC racing coil overs adjust at the top of the strut in the rear. In orde to reach these a hole must be cut into the trunk. In this thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...cing+coilovers

we talk about it further.

In our opinion this is the fastest way to mak adjustments. Other companies have chosen other methods and while they work, make more work than has to be done.

All BC racing coil overs come with a set of extenders for the rear. We have found that they are not needed. We chose to use a 2" hole saw to open up the hole in the rear and using a 2" grommet the adjusters can easily be accessed by lifting up the carpet and no one would know you have them as they are hidden away.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:30 PM   #39
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Below are the extenders. If you wish to leave your rear coilovers on one setting and install which is an option, but that defeats the purpose.

The hole for the extenders only needs to be the diameter of the cord, as the end is removable. http://autoagenda.com/2010-camaro-bc-racing-coilovers

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Old 08-31-2011, 01:35 PM   #40
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Below are the extenders. If you wish to leave your rear coilovers on one setting and install which is an option, but that defeats the purpose.

The hole for the extenders only needs to be the diameter of the cord, as the end is removable. http://autoagenda.com/2010-camaro-bc-racing-coilovers


I am going to have to respectfully disagree. You will find that if you drill a hole just large enough for the "cord" the bottom adjuster hits and binds. There is VERY limited space above the shock. Drilling a 2" hole into the trunk is imperative for these to work properly.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:38 PM   #41
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Nice!!

Now time for some badass wheels and slammed that thing HellaFlush style baby!!
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:54 PM   #42
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I am going to have to respectfully disagree. You will find that if you drill a hole just large enough for the "cord" the bottom adjuster hits and binds. There is VERY limited space above the shock. Drilling a 2" hole into the trunk is imperative for these to work properly.
BC Racing includes the allen key to remove the end for a reason. We are going by what BC Racing has told us is the best method, but either way does work. We have installed many BC Racing Systems on the GTO, G8 and Camaro. This issue applies to the Pontiac G8 and Camaro. We prefer not to drill a hole larger than necessary. A 2'' hole is far too large to drill into your trunk, especially twice. That would make installation slightly easier, but not needed in the long-run.
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:11 PM   #43
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Not trying to get in the middle of a war here and I don't even have the coilovers yet but personally I like how Mike did his using a grommet to cover the hole. That way the adjusting knobs are right there but are hidden under the carpet.

I think as long as the consumer knows there are different ways to do it then they can choose the which way the like. I'm sure there will be some that don't want to cut a 2" whole in the trunk. For me...I like the look if it being flush under the carpet.

It's nice to have choices.
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:19 PM   #44
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Not trying to get in the middle of a war here and I don't even have the coilovers yet but personally I like how Mike did his using a grommet to cover the hole. That way the adjusting knobs are right there but are hidden under the carpet.

I think as long as the consumer knows there are different ways to do it then they can choose the which way the like. I'm sure there will be some that don't want to cut a 2" whole in the trunk. For me...I like the look if it being flush under the carpet.

It's nice to have choices.
Absolutely, both options are completely flush and hidden under the carpet.
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Old 08-31-2011, 04:29 PM   #45
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I agree, nice to have choices. However, I must point out when we installed the coilovers on our shop car with the extenders in place, there was not enough room and they hit under the trunk floor. This caused bowing in the trunk floor and the extenders to bind and not be usable. Our solution was to go and clearance the top with a 2" hole and grommet so the top no longer hit against the floor. In doing this we also found that there was no longer a need for the extenders.

While I am not normally an advocate for cutting on ones vehicle, exceptions can be made as long as the modification made does not in any way hurt structural rigidity of the vehicle. As there is absolutely no stress placed on this area we can give our approval for this process.

You will also notice that the 2012 Camaro has a noticeably larger hump in the floor in the same area we have chosen to drill our 2" hole. So it is entirely possible that the method with just drilling for the extenders may work on 2012+ Camaro's. We should be testing this very soon.

Last edited by Whiteside Customs; 08-31-2011 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:33 PM   #46
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I have the 2 inch holes drilled in mine, and at 1st I wasn't to sure about it, but Mikes setup make adjusting everything a 40 sec affair. Takes longer to open the hood and trunk than it does to make the changes.
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:59 PM   #47
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I have the 2 inch holes drilled in mine, and at 1st I wasn't to sure about it, but Mikes setup make adjusting everything a 40 sec affair. Takes longer to open the hood and trunk than it does to make the changes.
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:08 AM   #48
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Also, I'm sure that if you didn't drill the first time when you installed it, you can drill from the top if you are careful enough. Make sure you get the drill as short as possible relative to the hole saw.
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:55 AM   #49
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I have the 2 inch holes drilled in mine, and at 1st I wasn't to sure about it, but Mikes setup make adjusting everything a 40 sec affair. Takes longer to open the hood and trunk than it does to make the changes.
Having the adjustment knobs is amazing for that reason, no climbing under your car with a specific tool, just pop the trunk

Only minor disagreement is over the hole diameter. Some are hesitant to drill into their car, which is understandable. Looks like it works both ways!

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Also, I'm sure that if you didn't drill the first time when you installed it, you can drill from the top if you are careful enough. Make sure you get the drill as short as possible relative to the hole saw.
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:27 PM   #50
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I hope Heintz Racing takes a look at this thread. When they installed my BCRs a couple of months ago I asked them not to drill holes in my truck but to simply set the fronts and rears at 12 and 6 and I'll try that for awhile. I hope the top of the shock isn't hitting the trunk.
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