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Old 09-01-2010, 09:05 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by caverman View Post
Those aren't bad 60ft times for your first time and stock. I was having a hell of time dropping below 2.2 60ft my first couple times out. I obviously haven't figured out how to launch it yet.

The Camaro seems kina hard to launch correctly to me. Not sure if it's the weight or the 20" wheels or what. It can be done though....I've seen some people launch the M6 pretty good with all stock suspension.

I had terrible wheel hop the first time out. A set of Spohn Del-Sphere TAs fixed that. A set of drag radials would help alot as well.

I've got headers, exhasut, and tune going on my car hopefully at the begining of the this week and I'll get out to the track again for another try. Drag Radials will probably be my next major mod after that. Might be awhile though because my mod fund is tapped right now.
I'm in the same boat. As soon as my headers get back from coating they'll go on along with the rest of my exhaust, CAI, and tuning. Drag radials will be next but the mod account is running loooow.
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:32 AM   #16
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I like to hit the dragstrip quite a bit and I was wondering what key suspension parts need to be upgraded in the Camaro to make it a capable performer. I have raced hundreds of times in different vehicles so I'm not a noob by any means, but I don't want to waste my time on parts that won't give me a good return either. So far I have Eibach 1" lowering springs (I know not necessarily great for drag racing, but I wanted a mild drop) and BMR trailing arms. They're not installed yet but will be soon. I'll most likely be running on a good set of drag radials and not slicks until later. So what else do I need to control wheel hop and get this car out of the hole? Let's hear your set ups and what works best.
You are heading in the right direction by installing Rear Trailing Arm upgrades. Be sure to do both inner and outer bushings as well. We have found these parts always aid in reducing/eliminating wheel hop, and a lot of people use them in conjunction with Solid Rear Subframe mounts. The Rear subframe mounts will eliminate any isolated movement between the chassis and rear subframe during hard launches.

There are a lot of little areas that can be upgraded for building a drag car. But really they should be areas that are addressed for reasons that you feel the car needs it. Meaning if your goal is to get power to the ground more and eliminate unnecessary powertrain movement, then upgrading engine mounts and differential mounts are key. If your launches are loading one wheel more than the other and it plants at a weird angle, then upgrading a rear sway bar only, or the tie rod arms are good areas to address to limit dynamic alignment changes. Things like that.

The ultimate goal when dealing with a drag suspension is getting the damping curves to allow the front end to lift and rotate, and not run out of extension, while getting the back to plant, stabilize, and load the rear tires evenly, with out OVER loading them and causing lack of traction. Any parts that do this should be your focus. We are continually developing our Drag Coilovers for this very reason.
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Old 09-01-2010, 03:26 PM   #17
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Trailing arms are a good first mod for drag racing, especially on a manual-equipped car. These will reduce the potential for wheelhop-induced broken driveline parts that seem to plague the fifth gen platform. We have broken practically everything we can drag testing our 6 speed development car when testing our parts at the track so we know first-hand how fragile the stuff is.

2.0 60 fts. is about the best you can expect with a 6 speed on stock tires. I have seen a few 1.9's here and there but with no consistency. Once you get your drag radials then 1.7 60 fts. are possible with a few more simple upgrades. I would install a set of polyurethane differential bushings and a set of cradle bushing inserts as my next round of mods. The shock loading that comes from a typical launch wreaks havoc on the factory rubber bushings. Minimizing differential movement and cradle movement will provide consistency to your 60 ft/times and also reduce the potential for wheelhop.

Something else that a lot of people tend to forget when drag racing an independent suspension is alignment. On a typical launch an independent rear develops negative camber as the car weight transfers and the rear squats. As the car gets faster this has a tendency to increase if the shock valving is not addressed. Excessive camber in any direction just means less tire contact patch. If you are an avid drag racer, an easy and cheap solution to maximize tread contact is to have the car initially setup with a little positive camber (Note: this doesn't work very well for handling though).

One last thing. If your track hasn't already they will make you install a driveshaft safety loop. Our loop is NHRA legal and installs easily in one hour or less.

Last edited by BMR guy; 09-03-2010 at 09:02 AM.
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
You are heading in the right direction by installing Rear Trailing Arm upgrades. Be sure to do both inner and outer bushings as well. We have found these parts always aid in reducing/eliminating wheel hop, and a lot of people use them in conjunction with Solid Rear Subframe mounts. The Rear subframe mounts will eliminate any isolated movement between the chassis and rear subframe during hard launches.

There are a lot of little areas that can be upgraded for building a drag car. But really they should be areas that are addressed for reasons that you feel the car needs it. Meaning if your goal is to get power to the ground more and eliminate unnecessary powertrain movement, then upgrading engine mounts and differential mounts are key. If your launches are loading one wheel more than the other and it plants at a weird angle, then upgrading a rear sway bar only, or the tie rod arms are good areas to address to limit dynamic alignment changes. Things like that.

The ultimate goal when dealing with a drag suspension is getting the damping curves to allow the front end to lift and rotate, and not run out of extension, while getting the back to plant, stabilize, and load the rear tires evenly, with out OVER loading them and causing lack of traction. Any parts that do this should be your focus. We are continually developing our Drag Coilovers for this very reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR guy View Post
Trailing arms are a good first mod for drag racing, especially on a manual-equipped car. These will reduce the potential for wheelhop-induced broken driveline parts that seem to plague the fifth gen platform. We have broken practically everything we can drag testing our 6 speed development car when testing our parts at the track so we know first-hand how fragile the stuff is.

2.0 60 fts. is about the best you can expect with a 6 speed on stock tires. I have seen a few 1.9's here and there but with no consistency. Once you get your drag radials then 1.7 60 fts. are possible with a few more simple upgrades. I would install a set of polyurethane differential bushings and a set of cradle bushing inserts as my next round of mods. The shock loading that comes from a typical launch wreaks havoc on the factory rubber bushings. Minimizing differential movement and cradle movement will provide consistency to your 60 ft/times and also reduce the potential for wheelhop.

Something else that a lot of people tend to forget when drag racing an automatic is alignment. On a typical launch an independent rear develops negative camber as the car weight transfers and the rear squats. As the car gets faster this has a tendency to increase if the shock valving is not addressed. Excessive camber in any direction just means less tire contact patch. If you are an avid drag racer, an easy and cheap solution to maximize tread contact is to have the car initially setup with a little positive camber (Note: this doesn't work very well for handling though).

One last thing. If your track hasn't already they will make you install a driveshaft safety loop. Our loop is NHRA legal and installs easily in one hour or less.
The videos out there of the diff' and rear cradle dancing around with the OEM bushings sold me immediately on products like you guys have been developing.

Aaron - Are you going to have dedicated drag shocks then?
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Old 09-01-2010, 06:21 PM   #19
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I'm very interested in this subject....

Best 60' I've cut so far on street tires and aftermarket trailing arms has been 2.1 on a 12.9 @ 111 pass.

I'm just wrapping up a cam swap, so it would actually be nice to pull a nice 60' time with the added power.
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Old 09-01-2010, 06:29 PM   #20
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:01 PM   #21
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The videos out there of the diff' and rear cradle dancing around with the OEM bushings sold me immediately on products like you guys have been developing.

Aaron - Are you going to have dedicated drag shocks then?
Pfadt Drag Racing Coil Overs with drag race specific spring rates and damping are available. If you would like more details feel free to hit me up.
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:09 PM   #22
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Thanks for all the info everyone. Keep it coming!
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:53 PM   #23
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Your best bet is to call the guys at BMR. They actually go to the drag strip and gather data that they use to develop the parts they sell.

You dont need to replace the struts or shocks on the car to have a good 60ft. You can go very fast with the stock ones.

You can try this also. Call each one of the sponsors on this site that sell suspension and ask them what parts they used on their own drag race car to get the best 60ft. Pay close attention who pushes which part. Make sure you make your last call BMR.
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:57 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
The ultimate goal when dealing with a drag suspension is getting the damping curves to allow the front end to lift and rotate, and not run out of extension, while getting the back to plant, stabilize, and load the rear tires evenly, with out OVER loading them and causing lack of traction. Any parts that do this should be your focus. We are continually developing our Drag Coilovers for this very reason.
I asked another Sponsor this same question but he never answered.

Why would you want the front end to fully extend and waste the motion when the car could be using that energy to move forward?

Will a car be quicker with a strut on full soft or full hard if tire spin is not an issue?
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:18 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by JUISSD View Post
I like to hit the dragstrip quite a bit and I was wondering what key suspension parts need to be upgraded in the Camaro to make it a capable performer. I have raced hundreds of times in different vehicles so I'm not a noob by any means, but I don't want to waste my time on parts that won't give me a good return either. So far I have Eibach 1" lowering springs (I know not necessarily great for drag racing, but I wanted a mild drop) and BMR trailing arms. They're not installed yet but will be soon. I'll most likely be running on a good set of drag radials and not slicks until later. So what else do I need to control wheel hop and get this car out of the hole? Let's hear your set ups and what works best.
Give us a call at the shop and make sure to talk to either me or Lee and we can get you setup with everything you need to get that car down the drag strip.
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:43 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Sam88gta1 View Post
Your best bet is to call the guys at BMR. They actually go to the drag strip and gather data that they use to develop the parts they sell.

You dont need to replace the struts or shocks on the car to have a good 60ft. You can go very fast with the stock ones.

You can try this also. Call each one of the sponsors on this site that sell suspension and ask them what parts they used on their own drag race car to get the best 60ft. Pay close attention who pushes which part. Make sure you make your last call BMR.
That's funny you mentioned that as we have been to the drag strip the last two nights in a row testing products and were there last week too! Our best time so far has been an 11.033@121.37mph with a 1.56 60 ft/time on Drag radials. These cars are hard to make weight transfer without running a soft sidewall drag slick. We are working on a rear drag shock conversion that will put a true Strange or AFCO double adjustable drag shock on the car. Hopefully we'll be testing these in the next few weeks prior to the LS Fest and LSX Shootout.

Last edited by BMR guy; 09-03-2010 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:09 AM   #27
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The videos out there of the diff' and rear cradle dancing around with the OEM bushings sold me immediately on products like you guys have been developing.

Aaron - Are you going to have dedicated drag shocks then?
Yeah, our prior experience with the GTO, Cadillac CTS-V and Pontiac G8 prepared us for this. The first thing we did when we got our test car was hook up cameras under the rear and video the cradle, diff, and 5 link bushings to see how bad the movement was. It's amazing how much everything squirms around back there during a launch, during hard shifting, and during acceleration-to-braking transitions.
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:08 AM   #28
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That's funny you mentioned that as we have been to the drag strip the last two nights in a row testing products and were there last week too! Our best time so far has been an 11.033@121.37mph with a 1.56 60 ft/time on Drag radials. These cars are hard to make weight transfer without running a soft sidewall drag slick. We are working on a rear drag shock conversion that will put a true Strange or AFCO double adjustable drag shock on the car. Hopefully we'll be testing these in the next few weeks prior to the LS Fest and LSX Shootout.
What kind of mods are on this car that ran an 11.03 besides suspension parts and drag radials?? How much H/P you pushing? Just wondering because I've had a consistent 2.0-2.1 60 ft on stock tires both stock and with mods. Havent ran it with the cam yet, but I plan on tweaking the suspension next and D/R.

Thanks, jrrod.
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