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Old 09-01-2010, 06:26 PM   #18
radz28
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Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
You are heading in the right direction by installing Rear Trailing Arm upgrades. Be sure to do both inner and outer bushings as well. We have found these parts always aid in reducing/eliminating wheel hop, and a lot of people use them in conjunction with Solid Rear Subframe mounts. The Rear subframe mounts will eliminate any isolated movement between the chassis and rear subframe during hard launches.

There are a lot of little areas that can be upgraded for building a drag car. But really they should be areas that are addressed for reasons that you feel the car needs it. Meaning if your goal is to get power to the ground more and eliminate unnecessary powertrain movement, then upgrading engine mounts and differential mounts are key. If your launches are loading one wheel more than the other and it plants at a weird angle, then upgrading a rear sway bar only, or the tie rod arms are good areas to address to limit dynamic alignment changes. Things like that.

The ultimate goal when dealing with a drag suspension is getting the damping curves to allow the front end to lift and rotate, and not run out of extension, while getting the back to plant, stabilize, and load the rear tires evenly, with out OVER loading them and causing lack of traction. Any parts that do this should be your focus. We are continually developing our Drag Coilovers for this very reason.
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Trailing arms are a good first mod for drag racing, especially on a manual-equipped car. These will reduce the potential for wheelhop-induced broken driveline parts that seem to plague the fifth gen platform. We have broken practically everything we can drag testing our 6 speed development car when testing our parts at the track so we know first-hand how fragile the stuff is.

2.0 60 fts. is about the best you can expect with a 6 speed on stock tires. I have seen a few 1.9's here and there but with no consistency. Once you get your drag radials then 1.7 60 fts. are possible with a few more simple upgrades. I would install a set of polyurethane differential bushings and a set of cradle bushing inserts as my next round of mods. The shock loading that comes from a typical launch wreaks havoc on the factory rubber bushings. Minimizing differential movement and cradle movement will provide consistency to your 60 ft/times and also reduce the potential for wheelhop.

Something else that a lot of people tend to forget when drag racing an automatic is alignment. On a typical launch an independent rear develops negative camber as the car weight transfers and the rear squats. As the car gets faster this has a tendency to increase if the shock valving is not addressed. Excessive camber in any direction just means less tire contact patch. If you are an avid drag racer, an easy and cheap solution to maximize tread contact is to have the car initially setup with a little positive camber (Note: this doesn't work very well for handling though).

One last thing. If your track hasn't already they will make you install a driveshaft safety loop. Our loop is NHRA legal and installs easily in one hour or less.
The videos out there of the diff' and rear cradle dancing around with the OEM bushings sold me immediately on products like you guys have been developing.

Aaron - Are you going to have dedicated drag shocks then?
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:21 PM   #19
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I'm very interested in this subject....

Best 60' I've cut so far on street tires and aftermarket trailing arms has been 2.1 on a 12.9 @ 111 pass.

I'm just wrapping up a cam swap, so it would actually be nice to pull a nice 60' time with the added power.
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:29 PM   #20
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:01 PM   #21
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The videos out there of the diff' and rear cradle dancing around with the OEM bushings sold me immediately on products like you guys have been developing.

Aaron - Are you going to have dedicated drag shocks then?
Pfadt Drag Racing Coil Overs with drag race specific spring rates and damping are available. If you would like more details feel free to hit me up.
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:09 PM   #22
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Thanks for all the info everyone. Keep it coming!
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:53 PM   #23
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Your best bet is to call the guys at BMR. They actually go to the drag strip and gather data that they use to develop the parts they sell.

You dont need to replace the struts or shocks on the car to have a good 60ft. You can go very fast with the stock ones.

You can try this also. Call each one of the sponsors on this site that sell suspension and ask them what parts they used on their own drag race car to get the best 60ft. Pay close attention who pushes which part. Make sure you make your last call BMR.
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:57 PM   #24
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The ultimate goal when dealing with a drag suspension is getting the damping curves to allow the front end to lift and rotate, and not run out of extension, while getting the back to plant, stabilize, and load the rear tires evenly, with out OVER loading them and causing lack of traction. Any parts that do this should be your focus. We are continually developing our Drag Coilovers for this very reason.
I asked another Sponsor this same question but he never answered.

Why would you want the front end to fully extend and waste the motion when the car could be using that energy to move forward?

Will a car be quicker with a strut on full soft or full hard if tire spin is not an issue?
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:18 PM   #25
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I like to hit the dragstrip quite a bit and I was wondering what key suspension parts need to be upgraded in the Camaro to make it a capable performer. I have raced hundreds of times in different vehicles so I'm not a noob by any means, but I don't want to waste my time on parts that won't give me a good return either. So far I have Eibach 1" lowering springs (I know not necessarily great for drag racing, but I wanted a mild drop) and BMR trailing arms. They're not installed yet but will be soon. I'll most likely be running on a good set of drag radials and not slicks until later. So what else do I need to control wheel hop and get this car out of the hole? Let's hear your set ups and what works best.
Give us a call at the shop and make sure to talk to either me or Lee and we can get you setup with everything you need to get that car down the drag strip.
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:43 AM   #26
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Your best bet is to call the guys at BMR. They actually go to the drag strip and gather data that they use to develop the parts they sell.

You dont need to replace the struts or shocks on the car to have a good 60ft. You can go very fast with the stock ones.

You can try this also. Call each one of the sponsors on this site that sell suspension and ask them what parts they used on their own drag race car to get the best 60ft. Pay close attention who pushes which part. Make sure you make your last call BMR.
That's funny you mentioned that as we have been to the drag strip the last two nights in a row testing products and were there last week too! Our best time so far has been an 11.033@121.37mph with a 1.56 60 ft/time on Drag radials. These cars are hard to make weight transfer without running a soft sidewall drag slick. We are working on a rear drag shock conversion that will put a true Strange or AFCO double adjustable drag shock on the car. Hopefully we'll be testing these in the next few weeks prior to the LS Fest and LSX Shootout.

Last edited by BMR guy; 09-03-2010 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:09 AM   #27
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The videos out there of the diff' and rear cradle dancing around with the OEM bushings sold me immediately on products like you guys have been developing.

Aaron - Are you going to have dedicated drag shocks then?
Yeah, our prior experience with the GTO, Cadillac CTS-V and Pontiac G8 prepared us for this. The first thing we did when we got our test car was hook up cameras under the rear and video the cradle, diff, and 5 link bushings to see how bad the movement was. It's amazing how much everything squirms around back there during a launch, during hard shifting, and during acceleration-to-braking transitions.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:08 AM   #28
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That's funny you mentioned that as we have been to the drag strip the last two nights in a row testing products and were there last week too! Our best time so far has been an 11.033@121.37mph with a 1.56 60 ft/time on Drag radials. These cars are hard to make weight transfer without running a soft sidewall drag slick. We are working on a rear drag shock conversion that will put a true Strange or AFCO double adjustable drag shock on the car. Hopefully we'll be testing these in the next few weeks prior to the LS Fest and LSX Shootout.
What kind of mods are on this car that ran an 11.03 besides suspension parts and drag radials?? How much H/P you pushing? Just wondering because I've had a consistent 2.0-2.1 60 ft on stock tires both stock and with mods. Havent ran it with the cam yet, but I plan on tweaking the suspension next and D/R.

Thanks, jrrod.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:18 AM   #29
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The videos out there of the diff' and rear cradle dancing around with the OEM bushings sold me immediately on products like you guys have been developing.

Aaron - Are you going to have dedicated drag shocks then?
We currently have a limited quantity of Drag Coilovers in stock. And we are slated to get more in early October. We have revised the Drag Coilover damping a TON to optimize it for drag launches. As we have mentioned before, the whole idea is to limit the droop resistance of the front end, maximize the ability of the rear dampers to transfer the load evenly over a full launch event, with out over loading the tires causing them to lose traction. The same holds true for spring rate choice as well. Standard spring rates will work great on the street and at the track, but they are not optimal for a drag racing application.

We can achieve good results from the settings on our standard coilovers, but to optimize the weight transfer, you need drag-specific valving and spring rates.

This was from the testing on the LPE 9-sec car.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:22 AM   #30
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What kind of mods are on this car that ran an 11.03 besides suspension parts and drag radials?? How much H/P you pushing? Just wondering because I've had a consistent 2.0-2.1 60 ft on stock tires both stock and with mods. Havent ran it with the cam yet, but I plan on tweaking the suspension next and D/R.

Thanks, jrrod.
We have a Magnacharger TVS 2300 and Kooks 1-7/8" headers. It's just under 600 rwhp.

The drag radials will make a huge difference for you, just be careful with your stock half shafts!
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:40 AM   #31
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I asked another Sponsor this same question but he never answered.

Why would you want the front end to fully extend and waste the motion when the car could be using that energy to move forward?

Will a car be quicker with a strut on full soft or full hard if tire spin is not an issue?
Not sure what motion wasted you are referring to, could you clarify your question? You want to get the weight of the car transferred quickly, in a controlled fashion, to the rear tires, with out overloading them. To do this, you want little resistance from the front droop valving, and you want front springs that are going to keep pushing up at full extension, and then stay there with out coming back down too fast.

It is hard to say weather a strut will be faster on full soft or full hard because Company A's valving and Company B's valving will not be the same. Dampers do not all have the same valving. And then, there are still options within the valving in terms of compression and rebound, and low and high-speed characteristics. So no one can say weather a "full hard" or "full soft" strut will work better, with out knowing the characteristics.
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Old 09-03-2010, 01:15 PM   #32
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We have a Magnacharger TVS 2300 and Kooks 1-7/8" headers. It's just under 600 rwhp.

The drag radials will make a huge difference for you, just be careful with your stock half shafts!
Oh the halfshafts Cant afford to break those
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:26 PM   #33
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We have a Magnacharger TVS 2300 and Kooks 1-7/8" headers. It's just under 600 rwhp.

The drag radials will make a huge difference for you, just be careful with your stock half shafts!
What size DR's on what size rims? What can we do to protect the half shafts?
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:19 PM   #34
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What size DR's on what size rims? What can we do to protect the half shafts?
It is a MIckey Thompson drag radial 305/45/18 and the wheel is 18" x 9.5" Z06 Corvette wheels. The best thing to do to save the half shafts is going to be to launch the car nice and easy, the instant shock of the launch is what generally destroys the half shafts.
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