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Old 09-03-2010, 10:18 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
The videos out there of the diff' and rear cradle dancing around with the OEM bushings sold me immediately on products like you guys have been developing.

Aaron - Are you going to have dedicated drag shocks then?
We currently have a limited quantity of Drag Coilovers in stock. And we are slated to get more in early October. We have revised the Drag Coilover damping a TON to optimize it for drag launches. As we have mentioned before, the whole idea is to limit the droop resistance of the front end, maximize the ability of the rear dampers to transfer the load evenly over a full launch event, with out over loading the tires causing them to lose traction. The same holds true for spring rate choice as well. Standard spring rates will work great on the street and at the track, but they are not optimal for a drag racing application.

We can achieve good results from the settings on our standard coilovers, but to optimize the weight transfer, you need drag-specific valving and spring rates.

This was from the testing on the LPE 9-sec car.
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:22 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by jrrod6410 View Post
What kind of mods are on this car that ran an 11.03 besides suspension parts and drag radials?? How much H/P you pushing? Just wondering because I've had a consistent 2.0-2.1 60 ft on stock tires both stock and with mods. Havent ran it with the cam yet, but I plan on tweaking the suspension next and D/R.

Thanks, jrrod.
We have a Magnacharger TVS 2300 and Kooks 1-7/8" headers. It's just under 600 rwhp.

The drag radials will make a huge difference for you, just be careful with your stock half shafts!
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:40 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Sam88gta1 View Post
I asked another Sponsor this same question but he never answered.

Why would you want the front end to fully extend and waste the motion when the car could be using that energy to move forward?

Will a car be quicker with a strut on full soft or full hard if tire spin is not an issue?
Not sure what motion wasted you are referring to, could you clarify your question? You want to get the weight of the car transferred quickly, in a controlled fashion, to the rear tires, with out overloading them. To do this, you want little resistance from the front droop valving, and you want front springs that are going to keep pushing up at full extension, and then stay there with out coming back down too fast.

It is hard to say weather a strut will be faster on full soft or full hard because Company A's valving and Company B's valving will not be the same. Dampers do not all have the same valving. And then, there are still options within the valving in terms of compression and rebound, and low and high-speed characteristics. So no one can say weather a "full hard" or "full soft" strut will work better, with out knowing the characteristics.
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:15 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by BMR guy View Post
We have a Magnacharger TVS 2300 and Kooks 1-7/8" headers. It's just under 600 rwhp.

The drag radials will make a huge difference for you, just be careful with your stock half shafts!
Oh the halfshafts Cant afford to break those
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Old 09-03-2010, 02:26 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by BMR guy View Post
We have a Magnacharger TVS 2300 and Kooks 1-7/8" headers. It's just under 600 rwhp.

The drag radials will make a huge difference for you, just be careful with your stock half shafts!
What size DR's on what size rims? What can we do to protect the half shafts?
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:19 PM   #34
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What size DR's on what size rims? What can we do to protect the half shafts?
It is a MIckey Thompson drag radial 305/45/18 and the wheel is 18" x 9.5" Z06 Corvette wheels. The best thing to do to save the half shafts is going to be to launch the car nice and easy, the instant shock of the launch is what generally destroys the half shafts.
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:29 PM   #35
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What size DR's on what size rims? What can we do to protect the half shafts?
We are using OE C5 Z06 wheels in the back with a Mickey Thompson Drag radial P305/45R18 tire.

To save the CV's first and foremost you have to make sure there is ZERO wheel-hop. Wheel-hop, even if you don't feel it, will rape your CV's without any warning. Some shear the shaft at it's narrowest point while others destroy the joint itself. On most cars wheel-hop can be cured by simply upgrading the Trailing Arms but some require cradle and differential bushings as well.

You can't dump the clutch much over 2800-3000 rpm on a drag radial if you expect the CV's to survive. Unfortunately it needs to be around 4000-4300 rpm to be in the torque curve of the motor and keep it from bogging. It will take some practice but you have to bring the car up to 2500 rpm or so and on the last yellow begin slipping the clutch. It takes a little finesse because you have to allow the clutch to slip just enough for the rpm's to rise to the torque curve but not enough to glaze the clutch. This will progressively load the CV's instead of shock load them.
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:56 PM   #36
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Sorry Kyle, didn't see your post there!
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:36 PM   #37
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I already have trailing arms on my car....

the car is street/strip...what else would be suggested to help plant & launch this thing?

Also, is anyone out there making a decent 20" drag radial that will fit on the OEM 20"
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Old 09-08-2010, 07:45 PM   #38
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I already have trailing arms on my car....

the car is street/strip...what else would be suggested to help plant & launch this thing?

Also, is anyone out there making a decent 20" drag radial that will fit on the OEM 20"
Mickey Thompson doesn't make 20" drag radials, so i guess the answer is "no".

Do you have polyurethane differential bushings? What about the rear cradle bushings? If you want the car to launch better, you definitely need to replace the stock rubber bushings with a set of poly bushings. BMR makes a Rear Cradle/Diff Bushing Kit that works great for street/strip cars. The diff bushings are made from 95 durometer polyurethane. The polyurethane rear cradle bushings completely replace the stock rubber bushings, so cradle movement is drastically reduced at launch.
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Old 09-08-2010, 08:39 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by BMR Fabrication View Post
Mickey Thompson doesn't make 20" drag radials, so i guess the answer is "no".

Do you have polyurethane differential bushings? What about the rear cradle bushings? If you want the car to launch better, you definitely need to replace the stock rubber bushings with a set of poly bushings. BMR makes a Rear Cradle/Diff Bushing Kit that works great for street/strip cars. The diff bushings are made from 95 durometer polyurethane. The polyurethane rear cradle bushings completely replace the stock rubber bushings, so cradle movement is drastically reduced at launch.
I don't have that kit.....but it sounds like I need it!!!!

I'm also leaning towards having my wheels widened to get more tire on the car.
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:21 AM   #40
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what's involved in installing front and rear lowering springs? I'm ready to lower my car 1" and want a decent spring for auto-x.
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Old 09-09-2010, 09:07 AM   #41
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I have all the BMR stuff. To date sub frame connecters, trailing arms, toe links, drive shaft loop and tunnel brace installed. Pumpkin runs 1.90 60's at 12.35. Will be installing the rest over the winter hibernation period. Love my BMR stuff and the service I recieve from the BMR crew.
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Old 09-09-2010, 01:37 PM   #42
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I have all the BMR stuff. To date sub frame connecters, trailing arms, toe links, drive shaft loop and tunnel brace installed. Pumpkin runs 1.90 60's at 12.35. Will be installing the rest over the winter hibernation period. Love my BMR stuff and the service I recieve from the BMR crew.
Glad to hear it! Always good to hear customer feedback!
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