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Old 09-03-2010, 04:29 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by JUISSD View Post
What size DR's on what size rims? What can we do to protect the half shafts?
We are using OE C5 Z06 wheels in the back with a Mickey Thompson Drag radial P305/45R18 tire.

To save the CV's first and foremost you have to make sure there is ZERO wheel-hop. Wheel-hop, even if you don't feel it, will rape your CV's without any warning. Some shear the shaft at it's narrowest point while others destroy the joint itself. On most cars wheel-hop can be cured by simply upgrading the Trailing Arms but some require cradle and differential bushings as well.

You can't dump the clutch much over 2800-3000 rpm on a drag radial if you expect the CV's to survive. Unfortunately it needs to be around 4000-4300 rpm to be in the torque curve of the motor and keep it from bogging. It will take some practice but you have to bring the car up to 2500 rpm or so and on the last yellow begin slipping the clutch. It takes a little finesse because you have to allow the clutch to slip just enough for the rpm's to rise to the torque curve but not enough to glaze the clutch. This will progressively load the CV's instead of shock load them.
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:56 PM   #36
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Sorry Kyle, didn't see your post there!
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:36 PM   #37
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I already have trailing arms on my car....

the car is street/strip...what else would be suggested to help plant & launch this thing?

Also, is anyone out there making a decent 20" drag radial that will fit on the OEM 20"
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Old 09-08-2010, 08:45 PM   #38
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I already have trailing arms on my car....

the car is street/strip...what else would be suggested to help plant & launch this thing?

Also, is anyone out there making a decent 20" drag radial that will fit on the OEM 20"
Mickey Thompson doesn't make 20" drag radials, so i guess the answer is "no".

Do you have polyurethane differential bushings? What about the rear cradle bushings? If you want the car to launch better, you definitely need to replace the stock rubber bushings with a set of poly bushings. BMR makes a Rear Cradle/Diff Bushing Kit that works great for street/strip cars. The diff bushings are made from 95 durometer polyurethane. The polyurethane rear cradle bushings completely replace the stock rubber bushings, so cradle movement is drastically reduced at launch.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:39 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by BMR Fabrication View Post
Mickey Thompson doesn't make 20" drag radials, so i guess the answer is "no".

Do you have polyurethane differential bushings? What about the rear cradle bushings? If you want the car to launch better, you definitely need to replace the stock rubber bushings with a set of poly bushings. BMR makes a Rear Cradle/Diff Bushing Kit that works great for street/strip cars. The diff bushings are made from 95 durometer polyurethane. The polyurethane rear cradle bushings completely replace the stock rubber bushings, so cradle movement is drastically reduced at launch.
I don't have that kit.....but it sounds like I need it!!!!

I'm also leaning towards having my wheels widened to get more tire on the car.
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Old 09-09-2010, 01:21 AM   #40
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what's involved in installing front and rear lowering springs? I'm ready to lower my car 1" and want a decent spring for auto-x.
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Old 09-09-2010, 10:07 AM   #41
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I have all the BMR stuff. To date sub frame connecters, trailing arms, toe links, drive shaft loop and tunnel brace installed. Pumpkin runs 1.90 60's at 12.35. Will be installing the rest over the winter hibernation period. Love my BMR stuff and the service I recieve from the BMR crew.
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Old 09-09-2010, 02:37 PM   #42
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I have all the BMR stuff. To date sub frame connecters, trailing arms, toe links, drive shaft loop and tunnel brace installed. Pumpkin runs 1.90 60's at 12.35. Will be installing the rest over the winter hibernation period. Love my BMR stuff and the service I recieve from the BMR crew.
Glad to hear it! Always good to hear customer feedback!
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Old 09-09-2010, 03:25 PM   #43
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I already have trailing arms on my car....

the car is street/strip...what else would be suggested to help plant & launch this thing?

Also, is anyone out there making a decent 20" drag radial that will fit on the OEM 20"
I found that Nitto makes a 20 inch drag radials, NT555R, they come in 275/40-R20 and 305/35-R20

http://www.nittotire.com/index.html#...t555r.overview

I am also going to upgrade my suspension in the dear future
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Old 09-09-2010, 09:23 PM   #44
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I am also looking to do some suspension mods to help the car on the launch, doing all the research on this topic now, the 2 sponsors i am leaning toward is BMR & Pedders. I am currently running stock tires, my best 60ft was 1.90 way to high i think with my current mods, can't get it out of the box without spinning. I know i need either DR's or slicks.

The good thing about slicks is they absorb the shock of the launch so the half shafts will last longer, the down side is that you need a mode of transportation to get the slicks to the track.

DR's on the other hand, you can buy a set of rims put them on, then put them in the trunk and rear seat, swap them once at the track and do your runs, but it's only a matter of time till the half shafts go POP. Can anyone help make my decision easier?

Last edited by 69 Rebel; 09-09-2010 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 09-09-2010, 09:37 PM   #45
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Anyone that's serious about going fast is gonna run a slick. Stuff them in the back seat if you have to and swing them on at the track!


But if you are going that fast you'll prob want a trailer just in case something breaks.
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Old 09-09-2010, 09:56 PM   #46
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Hey were is my sig. on my previous post
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Old 09-09-2010, 10:05 PM   #47
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Hey were is my sig. on my previous post

Maybe you have to many mods on that car and exceeded the bandwidth.
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:06 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by 69 Rebel View Post
I am also looking to do some suspension mods to help the car on the launch, doing all the research on this topic now, the 2 sponsors i am leaning toward is BMR & Pedders. I am currently running stock tires, my best 60ft was 1.90 way to high i think with my current mods, can't get it out of the box without spinning. I know i need either DR's or slicks.

The good thing about slicks is they absorb the shock of the launch so the half shafts will last longer, the down side is that you need a mode of transportation to get the slicks to the track.

DR's on the other hand, you can buy a set of rims put them on, then put them in the trunk and rear seat, swap them once at the track and do your runs, but it's only a matter of time till the half shafts go POP. Can anyone help make my decision easier?
I can try, let me know if you are going to go with BMR, I can help you get 10% off your parts through one of their resellers.
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:11 AM   #49
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what's involved in installing front and rear lowering springs? I'm ready to lower my car 1" and want a decent spring for auto-x.
Can anyone tell me what's involved innseapping the f/r springs. I bought them today. Auto-X event in three weeks. Any shops in nor-cal to install for me if I run out of time?
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Old 09-10-2010, 01:07 PM   #50
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Can anyone tell me what's involved innseapping the f/r springs. I bought them today. Auto-X event in three weeks. Any shops in nor-cal to install for me if I run out of time?
Just sent you a PM. Figured it wasn't specific to this thread.
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Old 09-10-2010, 01:52 PM   #51
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Hey guys, since we just got back from Rocky Mountain Raceway (elevation appx 4200'), we got some great results from our testing. This is our second test session with Craig, who currently runs in multiple championships at RMR. Craig is super-consistant, and it showed in his testing.

The CAR:

2010 2SS A6
Maggy 2300
ADM Intake and Tune
Nitto 555 Drag Radials
OEM differential
Pfadt Engine Mounts

Suspension:
Pfadt Drag Race Coilovers
Sport Sway Bars
Rear Trailing Arms
Toe Link Stiffeners
Full Poly kit

Craig was consistently showing 2.0X and 2.1X 60' times during the baseline sessions. Just throwing the suspension on yielded low 1.9X 60' times, and after some adjustments, we got the thing dialed in to produce a 1.465 60' time!!

Needless to say, Craig was VERY excited, as he was unaware of the improvements that can be made just solely from suspension! Check the time slip (right lane) below. We are going to be continually developing our Drag units, to get people the right set up to produce real results.

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