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Old 09-01-2010, 10:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps View Post
I'm totally against spraying the whole car with detail spray...then wiping it off. That makes NO sense to me whatsoever (yeah the people selling the stuff say it makes the drying process easier). It doesn't in my view. I've tried it several times, and each time I kick myself in the ass after-wards saying "why in the world did I do that"? No thanks...I will stick with drying the car (after I rinse with open nozzle water stream) using a good leaf blower...then dabbing the few remaining droplets with a double-weeve drying towel. There is NO wiping involved...I mean NONE.
I think you're missing the point for using a drying agent.

It serves a couple of purposes.

A) Additional Surface Lubrication - Anytime you'll be touching your paint you should maximize surface lubrication. Using a drying agent to do this also wets and helps encapsulate any stray dirt/dust particles you may have on the surface - potentially from water drips carrying debris out of trim or door handles, spots you may have missed in the washing process, or stuff that may have settled on the car.

This becomes especially important in cases where you use forced air for drying. That process will push water laden with debris out of the cracks and crevices and from around badges. Lubricating this debris before removal minimizes the risk of damage to your clear coat.

Its simply an extra barrier of protection.

B) Detail Spray is mildly hydrophobic - this means that it repels water.. if you have standing water pooled anywhere on the vehicle, try a mist of detail spray and watch what happens. The product will cause that standing water to run. Even if you do a sheeting/pooling rinse there will be areas where water gathers.

So whether you choose to believe it or not it does aid in drying. Now maybe you're misunderstanding or simply doing it incorrectly, but a light mist of product as you dry is all thats needed - if you're having such extensive problems with this process it might be that you're saturating the car with spray.

In any event, do what works for you... but its not like we blindly make these recommendations based on some hunch. Its been proven in results and in the countless testimonials of customers that its an added benefit, not just with our products either. Many companies make this same recommendation.
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:40 PM   #16
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right here!

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1913379


Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacknight11 View Post
Where can I get a foam spray gun. I ordered a few products from Adams but they did not have any foan spray guns left.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:02 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by rd-camaro View Post
can somebody please tell me the foam gun procedure?

i keep seeing people rinse the car, then foam the car, then right away start scrubbing with a pad or mitt...this doesnt make sense to me...the foam gun is used to break up and loosen the dirt/film on the paint...so the dirt is floating around in the foam when it is loosened up right? why would you go ahead and starting scrubbing the car with the dirt mixed with the foam? wouldnt it be better the rinse the foam off the car then use the 2 bucket method? wouldnt this avoid swirls better? and yes i have watch the junkmans videos and have detailed my car many many times using adams polishes and junkmans methods....

thanks
After reading all of the responses, I don't know if this was really answered.

First, the reason that you foam the car is to lubricate and lift the dirt that is matted to the clear coat. The reason that you DO NOT rinse that foam off is because all of the dirt will not be lifted. Thus, you want as much lubricant on the car as possible so that as your mitt is going across the surface, it won't grind the dirt that is still stuck on the clear coat into the clear coat. All that soap on the surface of the car keeps that remaining dirt from being able to grind into the clear coat. The dirt that is floating withing the suds is fine as it is so lubricated that it cannot create an issue.

The soap creates a situation that is slick as snot to dirt. That's why the foam gun is so important.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:48 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rd-camaro View Post
can somebody please tell me the foam gun procedure?

i keep seeing people rinse the car, then foam the car, then right away start scrubbing with a pad or mitt...this doesnt make sense to me...the foam gun is used to break up and loosen the dirt/film on the paint...so the dirt is floating around in the foam when it is loosened up right? why would you go ahead and starting scrubbing the car with the dirt mixed with the foam? wouldnt it be better the rinse the foam off the car then use the 2 bucket method? wouldnt this avoid swirls better? and yes i have watch the junkmans videos and have detailed my car many many times using adams polishes and junkmans methods....

thanks
This is my procedure:

1) Rinse car thoroughly with water to remove as much dirt as possible.
2) Foam entire car thoroughly once to allow soap to help remove remaining dirt.
3) Foam car quickly again to help the removed dirt wash away.
4) Start foaming sections of the car starting at the top and working your way down.
5) I use a soft wash mitt for the top, hood and trunk. I use another soft mitt for the sides and then use a sponge for the very bottom of the vehicle and wheels since there is where most of the dirt would be and I don't want to dirty my best mitt. Check your wash mitts frequently to make sure there is no dirt on it so you won't scratch your car.
6) Rinse car thoroughly. Take off any attachments to your hose and then allow water to sheet off the car starting at the top. If you have previously waxed your car this will keep your drying to a minimum.
7) I use a waffle weave drying towel and then starting at the top to dry off the car. Check your drying towel before starting to make sure there is no dirt in it. I usually wash my drying towel with clean water before and after using.
8) I then use a high quality microfiber towel to blot (not rub) the remaining water off.
9) I also dry the inside of the hood, trunk and doors with a seperate microfiber towel.

I can wash and dry my Camaro by myself in 30-45 minutes. If you have someone that can help with the drying you can shave off about 10 minutes.

I also use a 5 gallon bucket but only to store my cleaning products since the foam gun does all the work for me.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:22 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
After reading all of the responses, I don't know if this was really answered.

First, the reason that you foam the car is to lubricate and lift the dirt that is matted to the clear coat. The reason that you DO NOT rinse that foam off is because all of the dirt will not be lifted. Thus, you want as much lubricant on the car as possible so that as your mitt is going across the surface, it won't grind the dirt that is still stuck on the clear coat into the clear coat. All that soap on the surface of the car keeps that remaining dirt from being able to grind into the clear coat. The dirt that is floating withing the suds is fine as it is so lubricated that it cannot create an issue.

The soap creates a situation that is slick as snot to dirt. That's why the foam gun is so important.
junkman to the rescue once again thanks for the great explantion! made it clear to me now what the purpose of the foam gun...just need to go and buy one now
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:26 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan@Adams View Post
I think you're missing the point for using a drying agent.

It serves a couple of purposes.

A) Additional Surface Lubrication - Anytime you'll be touching your paint you should maximize surface lubrication. Using a drying agent to do this also wets and helps encapsulate any stray dirt/dust particles you may have on the surface - potentially from water drips carrying debris out of trim or door handles, spots you may have missed in the washing process, or stuff that may have settled on the car.

This becomes especially important in cases where you use forced air for drying. That process will push water laden with debris out of the cracks and crevices and from around badges. Lubricating this debris before removal minimizes the risk of damage to your clear coat.

Its simply an extra barrier of protection.

B) Detail Spray is mildly hydrophobic - this means that it repels water.. if you have standing water pooled anywhere on the vehicle, try a mist of detail spray and watch what happens. The product will cause that standing water to run. Even if you do a sheeting/pooling rinse there will be areas where water gathers.

So whether you choose to believe it or not it does aid in drying. Now maybe you're misunderstanding or simply doing it incorrectly, but a light mist of product as you dry is all thats needed - if you're having such extensive problems with this process it might be that you're saturating the car with spray.

In any event, do what works for you... but its not like we blindly make these recommendations based on some hunch. Its been proven in results and in the countless testimonials of customers that its an added benefit, not just with our products either. Many companies make this same recommendation.
awesome in depth explantion dylan

one more question...before i start leaf blowing the hard to dry areas on my car do i detail spray the whole car? or wait until after i finish leaf blowing?
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:27 AM   #21
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thanks to all you people who have posted your procedures!
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:16 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rd-camaro View Post
awesome in depth explantion dylan

one more question...before i start leaf blowing the hard to dry areas on my car do i detail spray the whole car? or wait until after i finish leaf blowing?
The use of Detail Spray when drying is more of a preference procedure. Some do and some don't, it depends on your situation. I do not do so as I do not have a need to. If you are in a situation with hard water or maybe the water dries too fast, you may benefit from it. One thing you don't do is spray the entire car down and then start drying. That's a waste of Detail Spray. Just spray as you go if you decide to use it.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:45 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
The use of Detail Spray when drying is more of a preference procedure. Some do and some don't, it depends on your situation. I do not do so as I do not have a need to. If you are in a situation with hard water or maybe the water dries too fast, you may benefit from it. One thing you don't do is spray the entire car down and then start drying. That's a waste of Detail Spray. Just spray as you go if you decide to use it.
hmmmm ok i get it now...the reason why i like to use the detail spray because it looks like it gives it a little more shine after the wash.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:56 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by rd-camaro View Post
hmmmm ok i get it now...the reason why i like to use the detail spray because it looks like it gives it a little more shine after the wash.
And that very well could be the case. It is not right or wrong to do so, simply a preference that folks have their own reasons for doing so.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:59 AM   #25
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And that very well could be the case. It is not right or wrong to do so, simply a preference that folks have their own reasons for doing so.
ok i guess my real question is am i doing more harm (swirls/scratches) by using a MF towel and rubbing the detail spray around the car? i mean i just washed the car very thoroughly and all the dirt is off the paint...
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:07 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by rd-camaro View Post
ok i guess my real question is am i doing more harm (swirls/scratches) by using a MF towel and rubbing the detail spray around the car? i mean i just washed the car very thoroughly and all the dirt is off the paint...
Anytime that you touch the paint is an opportunity to scratch the paint. It is that simple. If you can avoid touching the paint at any time, you have also just avoided the possibility to create any damage. That's why I blow dry my car.

If you do have to touch the paint, doing so immediately after washing would be the safest time to do so.
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:22 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
Anytime that you touch the paint is an opportunity to scratch the paint. It is that simple. If you can avoid touching the paint at any time, you have also just avoided the possibility to create any damage. That's why I blow dry my car.

If you do have to touch the paint, doing so immediately after washing would be the safest time to do so.

ok cool thanks again Junkman
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:36 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by rd-camaro View Post
I think I'm going to try it and see what happens. What is your mph rating on your leaf blower? You detail spray the whole car after drying or just the spots you missed?
I think the specs say 200mph. I use the cheap $29 electric one from sears.

As for the detail spray, it depends on the mood i am in. Most of the time i just detail spray the spots i miss. If i want that extra bit of shine i will detail spray the whole car when im done.
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