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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 09-07-2010, 09:01 PM   #1
sfgiantsfan9
 
Drives: Camaro 2SS/RS and 2001 Ford F250
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Need some advice (clutch issue update)

Just as a quick recap I first started having problems with my clutch pedal sticking to the floor and engagement point was changing and moving higher. I got a full replacement under warranty about 500 miles ago. Now the engagement point is moving on me again and about three times I couldn't get in gear and had to press and release the clutch pedal a few times to get it to drop into any gear. Took it back to the dealer and they contacted GM and GM is blowing it off as driver error. Now this is not my first manual transmission vehicle. I have years of experience driving stick and am 100% positive that I am not the problem. They basically told me that I'm on my own and wouldn't even authorize the dealership to put it on a rack. So now I am stuck with a car with 3800 miles on It with a faulty clutch that GM won't help me with. I used to love driving the car but now I literally drive my other vehicles just because I can't stand the clutch. Sorry for the Long Post but my question is what would you do in my situation? If I sell it I'm out a few grand. The car is paid off but I will never get back what I paid. What would you do? Thanks for any help. This has really got me down.
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Old 09-07-2010, 09:04 PM   #2
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stop letting the dealership walk all over you.


that is, if it really isn't you that's the issue.
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Old 09-07-2010, 09:20 PM   #3
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It isn't the dealership. I spoke directly with GM. And trust me I'm not the problem.
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Old 09-08-2010, 08:15 AM   #4
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I know you said it is GM and not the dealership however I would call other dealerships in the area and speak with the service manager. Find one who is willing to look at the car. If they find there is a problem and they tell GM they should fix it. Emphasize that your car is not driveable with this issue. Also you need to make sure you escalate the issue with GM. Keep asking to speak with someone higher up. Too many people give up the first time they are told no (not saying you have, just saying)

GM does not need to authorize the dealership just to put it on the rack and look at it. You need to get a tech to replicate the problem and get that reported to GM.

I bet money that your dealership is more involved than you think.
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Old 09-08-2010, 08:39 AM   #5
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There is always after market parts, that may suit your driving style better than OEM. The thing with these OEM setups is heat ... you can't slip the clutch or you will have problems. Myself I drive mine hard and have never had a problem with it. My engage point is high on the pedal, but I do fully go to the floor on shifts ...
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:22 AM   #6
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I will try another dealership. Does anyones clutch engagement point ever seem to jump around? It seems like whenever I get used to it the engagement point changes again. Right now where it's at I feel like I'm driving a truck, not a sports cAr
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:42 AM   #7
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The engagement point should be the exact same every clutch push.

I think the dealership is the main problem. A good one would just fix it. They don't need to call anyone. Very few repairs need any type of approval from GM, such as a complete engine replacement.

A good dealer would just bring it in and fix it. May take some extended test driving to duplicate the problem, but they should see it through until resolved. Only a couple parts there that control the clutch engagement, sounds like they just don't want to work on it.

If you bought it there, ask them if they would like you to buy another vehicle from them. It will depend on how you resolve this issue.
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Old 09-08-2010, 12:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
The engagement point should be the exact same every clutch push.

I think the dealership is the main problem. A good one would just fix it. They don't need to call anyone. Very few repairs need any type of approval from GM, such as a complete engine replacement.

A good dealer would just bring it in and fix it. May take some extended test driving to duplicate the problem, but they should see it through until resolved. Only a couple parts there that control the clutch engagement, sounds like they just don't want to work on it.

If you bought it there, ask them if they would like you to buy another vehicle from them. It will depend on how you resolve this issue.
I think that's the problem. I didn't buy it at any dealership. I bought it through a fleet sales through my dairy brand new for about 4k under sticker. So I really don't have a dealership.
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Old 09-08-2010, 12:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfgiantsfan9 View Post
I think that's the problem. I didn't buy it at any dealership. I bought it through a fleet sales through my dairy brand new for about 4k under sticker. So I really don't have a dealership.

How dark is the fluid?
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Old 09-08-2010, 02:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justa25thTA View Post
How dark is the fluid?
The fluid looks practically brand new. And there are no visible leaks which would explain not being able to get Into gear if it lost pressure.
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Old 09-08-2010, 03:03 PM   #11
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568923954-post1.html

^^Sounds like this isn't your problem but it may be helpful down the road.
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Old 09-08-2010, 03:08 PM   #12
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Let someone that DOES NOT WORK AT ANY KIND OF DEALERSHIP carefully examine your clutch pedal.

Try to get an unbiased opinion from a certified mechanic who is talented enough to tell you what is wrong but make sure you are not at a dealership. Just pay him to try to solve the problem instead of trying to get stuff done for free.

If I was in your exact same shoes, i would do the following:

1) there should be a way to bleed the system to get the air bubbles out of your clutch fluid hydraulic line, in the same way you bleed brakes. I did this for a hydraulic clutch on a toyota once, and it fixed it perfectly. IT SOUNDS like you have air in the lines. This might be a simple fix.

2) If bleeding the line does not work, there should be something like a slave cylinder located near the transmission where the hydraulic line connects to. IF that part is easy to replace, buy a new one and have it replaced, then bleed the line again. (if you have to pull the tranny to replace this, then don't bother with this idea.)

3) Look into the aftermarket clutch resevoir similar to what is used on a Corvette. where the clutch fluid does not mix with the brake fluid. People have already done this to their cars.

4) Purchase a clutch cable for a 2004 mustang and use this. a 2004 cobra I believe uses this same exact transmission that the Camaro has, so you might be able to jerry rig something that works. The main problem would be how this cable would connect physically to your clutch pedal. you likely could get all the brackets that connect to the transmission since they already exist on a 2003-04 cobra.

good luck !

Last edited by 2001ragtop; 09-08-2010 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 09-11-2010, 11:35 AM   #13
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I had the same issue on my 2LT/RS. I know it's a different tranny, but at 5-6k, the clutch pedal started developing a lot of play at the top (1-2 inches of laxity), and that escalated to the pedal getting stuck half way up its travel path, to the point that it needed to be pulled up with my toe. It was worse in the morning first thing, and when colder outside, but repeatedly dragged it in to the dealership to be told that it was unreproducable in the shop. It was as if there was a microscopic leak in the sealed hydraulic system, that increased the pressure with time and use (which I know makes no sense, but the best way to describe it). Well, ultimately at about 16k miles, they reproduced it, and replaced the clutch slave/throwout assembly under warranty, but that was after multiple visits, and an air of condescension that it must be operator error. I've been driving clutches for more than 600k miles and 21 years. Now, at 20,100 miles, it is starting to get lax again at the top (right about the same point that it started on the original). I think that it is important to note that the car's clutch assembly/disk was not deemed to be excessively worn or worthy of replacement when they changed the release bearing/slave. That, to me anyway, would indicate operator error. I've replaced one clutch in my life, and that was (ironically) on my 95 Z28, and at 118,000 miles. The throwout bearing was rattling enough to make me spend a Saturday replacing the whole thing. Stay on them... I even video'd me pulling the clutch off the floor with my camera as proof. I know how frustrating it is to convince someone that there is a problem.
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:55 PM   #14
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I had the exact same problem after I had work done to my car. The clutch pedal almost felt spongy, didn't release at the same points and stuck to the floor once. I brought it back in, they bled the system and it's been great ever since. Sounds like air in the system.
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Old 09-11-2010, 05:02 PM   #15
sfgiantsfan9
 
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I really don't want to go the aftermarket route because why should I put money into making a 36k car just operate normally? Just doesn't seem right. I understand them not wanting to replace something else under warranty since they already gave me a new clutch once. But cmon, there is obviously a problem since many members on this forum complain about problems on this clutch. A brand new car of this status should not have a piece of junk for a clutch. And there is no way it is due to everyone operating it wrong.
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