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Old 09-13-2010, 03:39 PM   #1
franknbeans
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Thumbs down Oil Leakage!

So I was under the Camaro today changing the oil and I noticed the entire oil pan and bell housing is covered in oil.

Guess I need to make an appointment now.


Is there a TSB on this or has anyone else had this issue?
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Old 09-13-2010, 03:49 PM   #2
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The LS motor is notorious for rear main seal leaks.I have a small leak myself I am going to take advantage of it and have my dealer put a 2800 rpm converter in while the transmission is out.
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Old 09-13-2010, 03:57 PM   #3
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I just had an oil cooler gasket replaced this past weekend for the same thing ...
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:09 PM   #4
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ok, at least I'm not the only one then. LOL
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:08 PM   #5
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similar...had cleaned off the bottom of the pan (it was an absolute mess)
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:14 PM   #6
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yup... looked JUST like that.
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:29 PM   #7
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NO TSB for it yet- Its not the rear case seal/porosity issue. (it could still be porosity or just as simple as a bad gasket)

Dealer is waiting for more info from GM for action on mine (last week) requires dropping trans, removing sub frame et al. to replace the pan gasket- he'd rather not pull it apart until he knows what the resolution is... (to avoid multiple fixes/dis-assemblies)

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Last edited by BalogUK; 09-13-2010 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:46 PM   #8
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dude, could you keep me posted on this. . . Once your dealer finds out the issue I'll have something to go off of.

Don't want to walk blind into my dealership.
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:55 PM   #9
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yea sure will- is yours dripping oil or just seeping? my garage floor is clean, so whatever it is, happens while it's circulating

whats your VIN ending & AT6 or MT6
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:20 PM   #10
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Mine is just seeping. . . haven't noticed any drips, but I'll be watching it a lot closer now.

It's a M6 #16235
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:27 PM   #11
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ok, I'm parked on a slight incline, nose down (we're talking like 5-10 degrees) and the last time I got in my 2ss the check engine light came on. After I made it to my destination, about 2 hours later I get in to come home for the night and now the info screen says I need to add oil! YIKES!! but after checking the dipstick, it doesn't look low.

Anyway I added about 1/4-1/3 of a quart of Mobile 1 synth to her and low and behold, happy as can be. Now the "add oil" message comes on every now and then, but then goes away the next time I start the engine, and there's no check engine light...

after hearing these stories, however, a dealership checkup just got bumped to top of the list anyway.
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:30 PM   #12
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Hmmm... I will have to look at mine next time I change the oil. I can't reacall seeing anything but come to think of it I may have been down a little on oil last time I changed it. No drips though, floor is clean. I would likely take the "do nothing" approach it it is as minor as shown in the pics and isnt dripping.
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:31 PM   #13
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Never had the "add oil" light...
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:43 PM   #14
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Same issue here - seeping, but no drips. The idiot dealer put dye in it and rechecked a month later..."We can't find any leaks." Changed the oil a couple of weeks ago and still seeping. Well, I checked the oil pans bolts, and THEY WERE ALL LOOSE!

Spec is 15 (or 18, I forget now) pound feet - they were all at about half that. The stupid service techs didn't even check this. ???

I need to get back under and see if that did the trick.
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:29 AM   #15
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yeah, they haven't touched it-the first drip on my floor and they're tearing it down. I check it once a week now- and it's currently covered again from when they cleaned the underbody last week. all bolts are torqued properly
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:29 AM   #16
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I should of snapped a picture of mine before cleaning it up. . .
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Old 09-14-2010, 01:43 PM   #17
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I had a leak in my secondary oil cooler, took the dealer a whole 20 minutes to fix. (After the 20 minutes I had to explain WHY I was under the car in the first place).......Really?
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rage View Post
I had a leak in my secondary oil cooler, took the dealer a whole 20 minutes to fix. (After the 20 minutes I had to explain WHY I was under the car in the first place).......Really?
The answer is because this is my car, i own it, and i can do whatever i damn please. If i want to look underneath my car, i can.

I wonder what face the service writer would make after that.
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:48 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by oachalon View Post
The answer is because this is my car, i own it, and i can do whatever i damn please. If i want to look underneath my car, i can.

I wonder what face the service writer would make after that.
That was my answer...I think you took my quote the wrong way Wasn't aimed at you, was at my retarded service guy. He actually said "since it didn't leak anything on the ground, how did you know it was leaking? And....what else were you doing under there(he wasn't really kidding either). During my muffler delete, my exhaust guy pointed it out to me.
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:34 PM   #20
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I had mine in 2 months ago and they replaced the oil cooler adaptor gasket. Just was under the car today and there is a light coating of fresh oil under the oil cooler again,WTF! Also, the pan has drips at the rear. This looks to be a rear main because it wasn't running down from the oil cooler. It's going in again next week! Brand new $37,000 sports cars should NEVER have oil leaks with only 6000 miles! I HATE cars with oil leaks, don't you?
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:47 PM   #21
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i had two oil leaks. one at the oil cooler, and another leak from the front and from the back of the oil pan.
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:39 PM   #22
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Service Bulletin: #05-06-01-034K: 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L, 6.2L, 7.0L-Engine Oil Leak at Rear Cover Assembly Area (Engine Block Porosity RTV Repair Procedure) - (Apr 8, 2010)


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with 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L, 6.2L, 7.0L VORTEC™ GEN III or GEN IV V8 Engine (All Aluminum Block) (RPOs L33, LC9, LH6, LH8, LH9, LM4, LS4, LS1, LS6, L76, L77, LFA, LZ1, LS2, L92, L94, L99, L9H, LS3, LS9, LSA, LS7)




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to add labor time information for the Colorado and Canyon. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-01-034J (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine oil leak.

Cause
Upon initial diagnosis, it may be determined that the leak is coming from the rear cover gasket. This condition may be caused by engine block porosity on the sealing surface. This issue pertains to aluminum block applications only.

Correction
Follow the steps for Oil Leak Diagnosis in SI to determine the source of the leak. If the leak has been diagnosed as coming from the engine rear cover assembly, refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI and remove the engine rear cover assembly. Inspect the engine block and engine rear cover for porosity on the mating surfaces.

• If porosity is found on the engine rear cover (see illustration below), replace the engine rear cover assembly, GM P/N 12633579.

• If porosity is found on the engine block, use the following procedure to apply RTV to repair the engine block porosity.

The porosity issue is in the gasket sealing surface at the top of the cover, near the high pressure oil crossover port. Refer to the picture below. The oil leaks by the gasket and runs down the side of the cover, and may appear to be a leak at the t-joint area of the cover. The fix is to replace the cover with GM P/N 12633579. Also, if porosity is found anywhere on the sealing surface of the engine block, use the following procedure to apply RTV to repair the engine block porosity. Refer to the illustration below.

Important: Clean any residual oil from the block and cover before applying the sealant in the next step.

•Wipe a small amount of RTV, P/N 12378521 (in Canada, use P/N 88901148), onto the surface using a plastic scraper to fill the porosity.
•Remove any excess RTV material, especially from inside the high pressure oil passage. Refer to #1 in the above illustration.
•The joint may be closed immediately after applying the RTV. Total joint time after the RTV has been applied must be under 20 minutes.
Important: Refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI and follow the tightening specifications and sequence.

•Reinstall the engine rear cover using a new gasket and a new crankshaft rear main seal. Refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI.
Parts Information
Important: For Saab (U.S.) only, use P/N 88861206 - Engine Oil Dye (U.S.) or equivalent.

Part Number
Description
Qty

12574293
Gasket - Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Housing
1

89060436
Seal, Crankshaft Rear Main
1

12378521

(in Canada, use 88901148)
Sealant
1

88861206

(in Canada, use 88861259)
Dye, Engine Oil
1

12633579
Housing Asm-Rear Cover
1
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