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Old 09-23-2010, 10:21 AM   #1
paslag
 
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cruise cancel button feature

I'm installing a line lock on my car, but I wanted to use the ''cancel'' button from the cruice control. The entire cruise control panel runs with 1 data wire, so I came up with this circuit:
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:23 AM   #2
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You can also use this to activate NOS!
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:50 PM   #3
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Very cool man, I just had to go and look up what a line lock was though, lol.

Quote:
Line lock is a solenoid that actually locks the front brakes, so that you can do a brake stand and warm up the rear tires. As long as you hold the little button, the front brakes will stay on.

It's also used to prevent the car from taking off of the starting line too soon and can be used as a hill brake.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what...ock-41283.html
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:07 PM   #4
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I would think that you would want a resistor on the base, unless there is one upstream at the switch.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:56 AM   #5
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Yeah, i want to install a linelock on my car too LOL. Should be awesome =D Let us know what your install looks like after you are done =D And show some crazy burnout videos! =D
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:41 AM   #6
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My install is already done and it works great. You don't need a resistor at the base of the transistor since it's already low voltage (2.11v).Resistor is already in the cruise control panel.
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:17 PM   #7
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Sorry, it is not a 1n9004 diode... it's a 1n4004... you can use 1N4001 thru 1N4007


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Last edited by paslag; 03-14-2011 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 03-13-2011, 12:53 PM   #8
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Old 03-14-2011, 02:38 AM   #9
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NOS application?
Thanks for the idea and great job, thats just genious
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Old 03-14-2011, 02:17 PM   #10
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It would work for NOS activation...
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:42 AM   #11
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Do you lose the use of the cruise control?
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Old 03-29-2011, 01:45 PM   #12
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Thumbs up

I can confirm that this does work!!

'Paslag' walked me through it and was very helpful!

When the arm switch is open, all cruise control buttons function as normal. When the switch is closed, the cancel button provides 12V to the solenoid as long as it's held down.

I was going to do a full-blown DIY on this but just got swamped with work.

Here's the completed diagram:
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Last edited by mwt18; 03-29-2011 at 01:46 PM. Reason: typos
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:18 PM   #13
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No someone needs to come up with a way to make this an easy install and I would be all over it. I'm not big on wiring things up unless it's real straight forward.
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
No someone needs to come up with a way to make this an easy install and I would be all over it. I'm not big on wiring things up unless it's real straight forward.
Yep, a full-blown DIY would be awesome.

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Old 03-29-2011, 09:08 PM   #15
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I can't resist helping out my fellow car guys, so here goes...

The parts you need are:
2x Directed Electronics (DEI) 8616 relays (got mine on amazon)
3x 1N4004 diodes (radioshack has 'em)
1x 2N3904 transistor (also stocked at radioshack)
1x in-line fuse (4A)
1x switch (your choice.. just no momentary switches.. the cruise cancel button is your momentary switch!)
~10 ft. of 18 gauge wire (exactly how much depends on where you locate your switch)
1 pack of wire taps (18-22 ga)
1 pack of butt connectors (18-22ga)
1 pack of ring terminals (18-22 ga)

Here's a pic of the components:


Close up of the prewired relay with wire color code:

The orange wires are not used in this application, so just cut them off and tape the ends.

My soldering skills are horrible, so I used wire taps to place the diodes across the relays and then wrapped it up with tape. Here's a pic before taping it up:


Next, is the transistor. The little bugger has 3 pins on it (C,B, and E) and they aren't all that flexible and break easily so take your time and carefully solder or otherwise connect them to some lead wires (different colors on the lead wire helps identify which pin is which). Then wrap it up in tape to secure. Here's that pic:


Now you're ready to build the circuit...Print out the diagram in my earlier post and label the different color wires on the print out. Then just use butt connectors and wire taps to join.. Here's mine:


In the end, you'll have 4 exiting wires:
  • Yellow from one of the relays -- This goes to the gray wire in the steering column.
  • Brown from the other relay -- This goes to the solenoid.
  • Red wire -- To Arm switch and ultimately 12V source.
  • Black wire -- To ground.

Next, I took the whole thing and wrapped it up in tape. I left one of the mounting holes on the relay open on one end and the 4 wires exit on the other end. This is a pretty good spot to mount it in the car (driver's side fuse panel):


The above pic also shows where you can ground the circuit (put ring terminal on end of black wire and attach to screw as shown)

Now, run the yellow wire up to the steering column and tap into the gray wire shown here:


Once you're tapped in, it will look something like this:


The brown wire needs to pass through the firewall and connect to the solenoid. There is a hole in the firewall that is perfect for this.. For the location, see this thread.

Now, is where things become dependent on where you locate the switch..

All's left to do is run the red wire to the switch and then to 12V..
A good place to tap into 12V is the BCM (it's above the accelerator pedal). There are 3 red/white wires that go into the white plug (farthest plug from front of the car). Run red wire here... Don't forget to add the fuse!
Will add pic..

This is where I put my switch... If you have a HUD, you'll obviously need to find another spot..


I'll finish this up when I get some more time...
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Last edited by mwt18; 03-30-2011 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:00 PM   #16
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I can't resist helping out my fellow car guys, so here goes...
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Last edited by Padre; 08-21-2011 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:10 PM   #17
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I'll add in my install. Done a little differently. I made a circuit board from the schematic and tapped in at different spots, and mounted the switch out of sight for a clean look.

Front and back views of my custom handmade board all finished up




All closed up in it's case. I got the case from a remote start immobilizer bypass I had laying around. Nice small size.


Switch mounted and all wired up ready to install


Closer pics of the switch install. I just used the master switch that came with the SJM kit.




Overview of the install area with fusebox pulled out to access wiring.


Showing the wires I used. I used 2 wire in this pic. The green(there are two of them, both common) are the fused output from the Retained Accessory Power going to the power outlets. The black are ground for the relays. So my 12 volt in to the circuit is the green, and black is the ground instead of using a bolt/screw to metal.


This is showing where I tapped in to the cruise control wire. I have access to AllData and found the schematic for the cruise circuit to find the wire without going to the column. It's at the BCM, plug 3(third from the rear of the car), pin 9. I figured it would be easier and cleaner than going to the column.







The box is zip tied to the fuse box harness behind the left vent/headlight switch. The switch is easily activated with one finger, yet completely out of the way, nearly un-noticable. Works like a charm.
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Old 08-21-2011, 02:02 AM   #18
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Subscribed since I will be adding the SJM line lock soon.

Quick question, I know a little about wiring so I'm not a complete newb, but is the relay on the left really needed or is it just a safety relay in case something goes bad?


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Old 08-21-2011, 08:34 AM   #19
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You electrical engineers are too cool! =)
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:09 PM   #20
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I tried this and failed epically :(.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:06 PM   #21
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I tried this and failed epically :(.
What happened? Mine came out great.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:53 PM   #22
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What happened? Mine came out great.

I need a wiring diagram for the mentally challenged! One with arrows and color coded lines,lol.
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:08 PM   #23
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could this concept work for exhaust cutouts too?

Also, I assume you loose the function of the "cruise cancel", correct?
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:12 PM   #24
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You can also use this to activate NOS!
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:47 AM   #25
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could this concept work for exhaust cutouts too?

Also, I assume you loose the function of the "cruise cancel", correct?
No, this only gives you one momentary switch. You need two (one open, one close) for cut outs.

As long as the main switch is off your cruise works just fine.
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