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Old 09-27-2010, 01:07 PM   #1
Smike47
 
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Help installing longtubes

I'll be doing my first Longtube header install this Friday. Couple of questions about the install. What all will be needed for installing these? I'll have a set of ramps and jackstands to get under and work on it. I have a set of longtubes, 3" to 2.5" connecting pipes, reusing the stock gasket and bolts, and O2 extensions for the front harness... Anything else required for it? Also, what all tools will be needed? Just trying to make a checklist to make sure everything goes smoothly. Also, any tips are appreciated. From what i've read the dipstick is the hardest part haha. Thanks
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:17 PM   #2
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Basic tools will do, I had all 4 tires off the ground and that was plenty. The o2 sensors are fun to unlock for the fist time, patients is a virtue.....
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:19 PM   #3
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make shore you have a friend to help with the dip stick.. very easy to do it took me 2 hr to install...
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:23 PM   #4
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Safety First: Disconnect battery positive terminal. Battery is located inside the trunk. Due to close proximity of working near the starter, as well as unplugging wiring harness items, this should be mandatory. You don't want that oil dipstick to bump the starter! If using ramps or jackstands, work on a level and concrete surface. Always use wheel chocks with ramps.

1. While car is on the ground, remove all of the spark plug wires. Removing spark plugs is optional, we did not.

2. Remove the oil dipstick from the passenger side cylinder head with a 15mm socket.

3. Remove 6ea exhaust manifold bolts on each side of the engine with a 13mm socket. Save these bolts and the factory metal gaskets, they will be reused.

4. On the backside of each cylinder head, facing the firewall, there is a wiring harness plug for the front pre-catalytic O2 sensors. These plugs are attached to the head by a slide-on plastic tab. Simply slide them downwards and disconnect the plugs, which disconnects the O2 sensors.

5. Elevate car to at least 2 feet off the ground with a lift, jackstands, or ramps.

6. Disconnect the wiring harness plugs for the two rear post-catalytic O2 sensors. Remove the two rear O2 sensors with a 7/8" wrench.

7. Disconnect the steering shaft near the steering rack. The steering U-joint has a single bolt that must be completely removed with an 11mm socket. Once the bolt is removed, the steering shaft simply collapses upwards towards the firewall. Push it up and make it shorter, getting it out of the way.

8a. If installing headers with factory mufflers, follow the instructions on the American Racing headers kit to mark and cut the rear muffler pipes with the Sawzall. Loosen the two front exhaust couplers with a 15mm socket and discard the midpipe.

8b. If installing headers with aftermarket catback, remove the midpipe by loosening any exhaust flanges necessary to do so.

9. The two exhaust manifolds will slip right out of the bottom of the car, with the catalytic assemblies still attached to them. Once they are out, remove the two O2 sensors with a 7/8" wrench.

10. At this time, install the two pre-cat O2 sensor extension harnesses to the wiring harness plugs that were mentioned earlier, found on the rear of each cylinder head. Allow them to hang down.

11. Slip the two headers in place, from underneath the car. Use zip-ties or some bailing wire to temporarily secure them so that they do not fall back out.

12. From above, install the OEM metal gaskets (pay attention to the notes stamped on the gaskets regarding direction) and reuse the OEM manifold bolts. Snug them all down and then torque to factory specs of 18 ft-lbs.

13. Install oil dipstick. This can be tricky, since the opening on the block is hidden from view by the starter. You may have to slip it down there and then crawl back under the car to guide it into the hole. A single bolt with 15mm socket tightens it in place.

14. Install spark plugs if you removed them, install plug wires.

15. Back under the car, install the American Racing midpipe. Do not tighten any exhaust flanges yet, leave them loose.

16. At the rear of the midpipe there is a ball-socket type flange. We need to get this to join with the muffler pipes. If using the OEM mufflers, the ARH provided adapter pipes should slip into place and bolt onto those ball-socket flanges. If using an aftermarket catback system these ARH adapter pipes need to be cut to length in order to join the ball-socket to the muffler pipes. Sawzall required in both cases.

17. After everything is installed, check for appropriate exhaust to body clearances along the entire exhaust system. Figure 1/4 inch is an acceptable minimum clearance. More is better. At this time, also line up your exhaust tips so that they are even and centered. Once you have everything in place, tighten all of the exhaust flanges and ball-socket flanges tightly. Do not over-tighten the flanges enough to distort the pipe shape.

18. Use a dab of anti-seize compound on the threads of each O2 sensor. Reinstall all four O2 sensors with the 7/8 wrench. Pay attention to the harness plugs on the ends, as there are two different types of sensors. The plugs only fit one way in the vehicle harness wires. Use zip-ties to route the wires away from any exhaust pipes.

19. Reinstall the steering knuckle joint back onto the steering shaft. Insert bolt and tighten securely with 11mm socket.

20. Start the engine and listen for any exhaust leaks. Tighten flanges as required.
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:23 PM   #5
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Yep. Hardest part is the oil dipstick. Did long tubes and complete r&r of factory x/catback in under 4 hours with a friend.
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:34 PM   #6
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Thanks for the quick responses! Should I be using the stock cats or will this be a cat-delete? This set didn't come with High-flow cats
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:38 PM   #7
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Up to you. Will be a little louder without cats and won't pass epa tests if your state does those.
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:58 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 2010 2-Tone View Post
Up to you. Will be a little louder without cats and won't pass epa tests if your state does those.
But will I be able to reuse the stock cats, or would I have to purchase Highflows? If i'd have to buy them i'll prob just do a cat-delete. In TN, no EPA anyway.
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Old 09-27-2010, 02:32 PM   #9
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Take out the spark plugs.............It will be worth it......
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Old 09-27-2010, 02:39 PM   #10
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You can't use the stock cats with LT's. Get a set of high flow cats from whoever made the headers. If your connecting to the OE catback, most header manufacturers can provide a high flow cat that connects their headers to the OE catback.

If you don't use cats, it could stink quite bad.

Some other tips. The day before, put some penetrating lube on the O2 threads. Then the day of, O2's come off much easier when hot - so make that the first thing you remove. Drive the car, get it warm, then get it up in the air and crack the O2's loose. The service manual also says to remove them hot. Cold, you stand a good chance of tearing the threads out.

On the dipstick. With the manifolds off, and before putting the rt header on, using a flashlight get a good line of sight of where the dipstick tube goes in. You will be looking down at an angle through the ABS brake pipes. Remember the relation to some reference bolts/spark plug, and your line of sight. When the header is now on, recreate that same line of site with your flashlite and you should be able to just barely see the hole.
If you wait until the header is on to try to figure out where the hole it, it's going to take a while. If you have the line of sight memorized, 30 seconds and done.

You do know you'll need a tuner to change the calibration right? Or it will be setting CEL light and trouble codes. And if you dealer sees that new cal, your warranty may be history?
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Old 09-27-2010, 03:10 PM   #11
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I left the offroad mid pipe on mine until inspection time comes around then I will be getting the High Flow cats........The smell is not bad......Just smells like the cars of old.

If you go on ebay and buy the HHO 2" Extenders they offset your rear sensors so they are reading different than the front ones. It keeps the CEL away.
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroCowboy View Post
I left the offroad mid pipe on mine until inspection time comes around then I will be getting the High Flow cats........The smell is not bad......Just smells like the cars of old.

If you go on ebay and buy the HHO 2" Extenders they offset your rear sensors so they are reading different than the front ones. It keeps the CEL away.

Will I need to purchase an straight pipe if I decide not to use the high flow cats? Also, the CEL light isn't a worry... I'll getting my SCT Tuner tomorrow. Its awaiting installation with the Injen kit as well.
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:56 PM   #13
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The offroad extenders should come with them if they do not come with cats. If they don't then yes you will need the extender...LT's don't quite reach......The stock headers with the cat pipe connected are longter thant the LT's (about 9" I think).
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:57 PM   #14
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Get a piece of tape and mark the block where the dip stick goes prior to removing it. It helps for a quick reference when your are attempting to put it back in. Having a second person for that part is a huge plus. Definately the hardest part of the install.
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