Front brakes smoking! - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

GEEo · 10-06-2010, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete

We have too little information to make any judgements. How many miles did you have on the rotors when the problem started?

well when I installed the rotors I had like somwhere 4800 - 5000mi. on the car.

Now I have a little over 7200mi.

JusticePete · 10-06-2010, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GEEo

Well I've been driving the car w/ the rotors for 2300+ miles already and the rotors worked flawlessly.

Until what happened today.

Also if it was the rotor install it would have come up earlier cuz I drive my car everyday to school. and I travel about 80 - 90 mi. a day.

I would have to agree if. If they worked for 2K trouble free you would generally not look to the install. The Chevy tech didn't find anything loose or out of order? Were the pads changed when the new rotors went in?

GEEo · 10-06-2010, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete

I would have to agree if. If they worked for 2K trouble free you would generally not look to the install. The Chevy tech didn't find anything loose or out of order? Were the pads changed when the new rotors went in?

No nothing was change except for the rotors.

The dealer has still no clue on what happened. I'm so Bummed out!

Spaceballone · 10-07-2010, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GEEo

No nothing was change except for the rotors.

The dealer has still no clue on what happened. I'm so Bummed out!

Sorry to hear. Stupid question: Have you tried going back to totally stock to see if you still have the problem? I agree with most, sounds like a warp issue. But the dealer didn't notice a warp? Tough one. I had that same issue on my beater (honda) and swapped out the rotors and all was good. Hope it works out for you.

GEEo · 10-07-2010, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spaceballone

Sorry to hear. Stupid question: Have you tried going back to totally stock to see if you still have the problem? I agree with most, sounds like a warp issue. But the dealer didn't notice a warp? Tough one. I had that same issue on my beater (honda) and swapped out the rotors and all was good. Hope it works out for you.

Thank for the info bro!

Ill will try that out!

GEEo · 10-07-2010, 04:25 PM

Shes fixed now! got the rotors resurfaced!

Gunna pick her up in about an hour!

thanks for all your opinion and adiveses guys!

Team STILLEN · 10-07-2010, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GEEo

Shes fixed now! got the rotors resurfaced!

Gunna pick her up in about an hour!

thanks for all your opinion and adiveses guys!

Did you bed the brakes the first time you had them installed?

GEEo · 10-07-2010, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Team STILLEN

Did you bed the brakes the first time you had them installed?

Wut do you mean??

R1 Concept is gunna replace them for free

Cuz its under warranty .

Team STILLEN · 10-08-2010, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GEEo

Wut do you mean??

R1 Concept is gunna replace them for free
.

It doesn't matter if they are replaced under warranty if they are not bedded correctly. Bedding new brakes and rotors is a vital part of making the brakes work. Each brake pad, and rotor combination can have a different procedure so its best to check with the manufacturer for recommendations.

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=...2ab5d7430ebd84

My 5th · 10-08-2010, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Team STILLEN

It doesn't matter if they are replaced under warranty if they are not bedded correctly. Bedding new brakes and rotors is a vital part of making the brakes work. Each brake pad, and rotor combination can have a different procedure so its best to check with the manufacturer for recommendations.

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=...2ab5d7430ebd84

In this regard is it required to put in new pads when changing to new drilled/slotted rotors? Will it cause a problem to continue using existing, say, Hawk Ceramic pads, if you put in new rotors? I have been looking for some good (inexpensive, but good) drilled/slotted rotors, but didn't want to add to the expense by buying new ceramic pads when I only have a couple of thousand miles on the Hawk pads I have.

Team STILLEN · 10-08-2010, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My 5th

In this regard is it required to put in new pads when changing to new drilled/slotted rotors? Will it cause a problem to continue using existing, say, Hawk Ceramic pads, if you put in new rotors? I have been looking for some good (inexpensive, but good) drilled/slotted rotors, but didn't want to add to the expense by buying new ceramic pads when I only have a couple of thousand miles on the Hawk pads I have.

Its not a problem to put new pads with old rotors, or old pads with new rotors. You just want to do a bed in, which is like a break in for an engine/rear end.

Follow the recommended procedures, and everything should work a lot better together than if you did not bed them in.

GEEo · 10-10-2010, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Team STILLEN

It doesn't matter if they are replaced under warranty if they are not bedded correctly. Bedding new brakes and rotors is a vital part of making the brakes work. Each brake pad, and rotor combination can have a different procedure so its best to check with the manufacturer for recommendations.

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=...2ab5d7430ebd84

Thanks for this information!

Ill make sure to do this when I get my replacement rotors.

The dealer told me that the calipers locked up that caused the rotors to warp.

Does that sound right??

v6sonoma · 10-11-2010, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GEEo

Thanks for this information!

Ill make sure to do this when I get my replacement rotors.

The dealer told me that the calipers locked up that caused the rotors to warp.

Does that sound right??

Thats pretty much what I was thinking happened.

Team STILLEN · 10-11-2010, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GEEo

The dealer told me that the calipers locked up that caused the rotors to warp. Does that sound right??

It would be one way to warp a rotor. Its a little bit of an odd occurrence, but cars themselves can be odd at times.

Did the dealer replace the caliper that locked up?

JusticePete · 10-13-2010, 09:29 AM

Brakes can be the difference between life and death. Put the OE rotors on and have the OE calipers rebuilt or replaced. Drive the car for at least a few thousand miles to make certain everything is function as it should. Something isn't right and going back to 100% OE will create the least amount of variables to deal with in any additional problems return.

Chris_B · 10-15-2010, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GEEo

The dealer told me that the calipers locked up that caused the rotors to warp.

Does that sound right??

If a piston is sticking (not likely, but it does happen every now and then), the rotor it is clamping on will run MUCH hotter than the other side. The first visual sign is a lot more brake dust on one front wheel when compared to the other. If that is not the case, the caliper is usually not to blame. If it is, continue reading.

Since that rotor is running hotter, it is possible after stopping that the pad is searing onto the disc surface. Most of the time you can see pad "print-off", or a visual image of the pad material outline on the rotor. It almost looks like someone took a pencil and traced around the pad. At this spot (if the rotors are hot enough), carbon molecules will get pulled from the pad and embed into the iron rotor surface to create cementite (a particular molecular lattice structure of iron-based alloy). This spot will now be much harder than the rest of the rotor and will not wear much at all.

As time then progresses, the driver will feel brake judder (including steering wheel shimmy if on the front). A tech will measure the runout with the rotors on the car and say "rotors are warped!" They are not actually warped, but the result is nearly the same. It is just that the softer iron has worn and the cementite patch has not, so the dial indicator will sweep back and forth as the tech rotates the disc.

So, what happened to your rotors? I dunno. But a good service tech with a lot of brake troubleshooting experience can usually figure it out. Most dealer techs are better trained at just replacing parts until the customer stops complaining. There are exceptions, but those guys typically venture out to open their own shops!

Chris

GEEo · 10-16-2010, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris_B

If a piston is sticking (not likely, but it does happen every now and then), the rotor it is clamping on will run MUCH hotter than the other side. The first visual sign is a lot more brake dust on one front wheel when compared to the other. If that is not the case, the caliper is usually not to blame. If it is, continue reading.

Since that rotor is running hotter, it is possible after stopping that the pad is searing onto the disc surface. Most of the time you can see pad "print-off", or a visual image of the pad material outline on the rotor. It almost looks like someone took a pencil and traced around the pad. At this spot (if the rotors are hot enough), carbon molecules will get pulled from the pad and embed into the iron rotor surface to create cementite (a particular molecular lattice structure of iron-based alloy). This spot will now be much harder than the rest of the rotor and will not wear much at all.

As time then progresses, the driver will feel brake judder (including steering wheel shimmy if on the front). A tech will measure the runout with the rotors on the car and say "rotors are warped!" They are not actually warped, but the result is nearly the same. It is just that the softer iron has worn and the cementite patch has not, so the dial indicator will sweep back and forth as the tech rotates the disc.

So, what happened to your rotors? I dunno. But a good service tech with a lot of brake troubleshooting experience can usually figure it out. Most dealer techs are better trained at just replacing parts until the customer stops complaining. There are exceptions, but those guys typically venture out to open their own shops!

Chris

Thank for the info bro!

KNS Brakes · 10-22-2010, 08:20 AM

You most likely have brake judder caused by uneven pad transfer layer. Most people think this is 'warped' rotors but that si not the case. You would have to greatly overheat the rotor to distort it and there would almost certainly be evidence of that - blueing of the surface etc.

Your symptoms are common and generally happen when you overheat the pads and they imprint on the rotor. It's now a very small 'bump' on the rotor that also has different friction characteristics then the rest of the rotor. So the pad is now hitting the bump and also alternately grabbing and letting go as the wheel turns. As speed increases it is felt in the wheel more violently - also as you heat up the brakes the pads are now grabbing harder on the good parts of the rotor but still skipping over the bad parts.

We had this happen so badly on an STi at VIR that the front wheels were hopping up and down OFF the pavement under braking. He got the meatball for that.

Sometimes you can rebed the pads or sand the rotors w/ garnett paper - but it may require a very light turn to remove the transfer layer and present a new rotor surface to bed your pads in to.

10-13-2010, 09:29 AM	#40
JusticePete Needs Lowering Drives: Pedders USA Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 13,897	Brakes can be the difference between life and death. Put the OE rotors on and have the OE calipers rebuilt or replaced. Drive the car for at least a few thousand miles to make certain everything is function as it should. Something isn't right and going back to 100% OE will create the least amount of variables to deal with in any additional problems return. __________________ Camaro Information \| Buy Pedders Parts \| Pedders Dealers \| The 5th Gen Book \| GMPP \| SEMA Hot Wheels Camaro Brochure \| EOD Fund Facebook Pedders Head Office 248.522.8021

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10-07-2010, 04:25 PM	#31
GEEo OKCamaros Drives: '13 WRX STi Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Muskogee, OK Posts: 4,621	Shes fixed now! got the rotors resurfaced! Gunna pick her up in about an hour! thanks for all your opinion and adiveses guys!

10-22-2010, 08:20 AM	#43
KNS Brakes Drives: Z06 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Cary NC Posts: 170	You most likely have brake judder caused by uneven pad transfer layer. Most people think this is 'warped' rotors but that si not the case. You would have to greatly overheat the rotor to distort it and there would almost certainly be evidence of that - blueing of the surface etc. Your symptoms are common and generally happen when you overheat the pads and they imprint on the rotor. It's now a very small 'bump' on the rotor that also has different friction characteristics then the rest of the rotor. So the pad is now hitting the bump and also alternately grabbing and letting go as the wheel turns. As speed increases it is felt in the wheel more violently - also as you heat up the brakes the pads are now grabbing harder on the good parts of the rotor but still skipping over the bad parts. We had this happen so badly on an STi at VIR that the front wheels were hopping up and down OFF the pavement under braking. He got the meatball for that. Sometimes you can rebed the pads or sand the rotors w/ garnett paper - but it may require a very light turn to remove the transfer layer and present a new rotor surface to bed your pads in to.