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Old 11-14-2010, 06:08 PM   #1
Hicompression
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Thumbs up Just Installed SubThump 12" Box, Plug and Play Harness and Amp Rack

I just finished installing my 12" SubThump box with SubThump's plug and play harness and amplifier mounting board. The system sounds great! I'm running a Precision Power A300 "Art Series" amplifier in bridged mode (300 watts). The amp is powering an Alpine 12" SWS-1222D dual voice coil subwoofer.

I also decided to run a bass knob. I velcroed it to the side of the console. I'm not big on drilling into my dash or console. As you can see from the pic I have attached, it turned out pretty nice.

I decided not to run any sound deadener during the install. I don't have any major rattles. The fitment of Subthump's box was great!

I only have one minor issue after the install...when I shut off the stereo, the subwoofer pops. It doesn't do it during power on. Any ideas?
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Old 11-14-2010, 06:16 PM   #2
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speaker looks good, but amp looks a lil sloppy with the wires showing tho
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Old 11-14-2010, 06:54 PM   #3
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speaker looks good, but amp looks a lil sloppy with the wires showing tho
Yep, I hadn't finished completely tucking the wires away when I took the pics. I have updated the first amp pic.
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Old 11-14-2010, 07:03 PM   #4
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What are you using for your "on" signal for the amp to turn on? In past systems I've installed, if you wire that to a switch vice the amp lead from a head unit, you'll occasionally get a bump when you power on or off. You can get filters for that if you're stuck using a switched power source. Not sure what the wiring harness uses for that function.
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Old 11-14-2010, 07:24 PM   #5
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looks nice
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:10 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by SwedeandBlondie View Post
What are you using for your "on" signal for the amp to turn on? In past systems I've installed, if you wire that to a switch vice the amp lead from a head unit, you'll occasionally get a bump when you power on or off. You can get filters for that if you're stuck using a switched power source. Not sure what the wiring harness uses for that function.
I'm using SubThump's harness connector. The white wire is for power on/off. This harness plugs directly into the amplifier. I guess I don't know exactly what the white wire is tapped into either...
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:20 PM   #7
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Wow a precision power art series amp, that brings back memories. I used to have one of those, but mine was the all black version. An awesome amp, and worth money. I sold mine a couple years ago for more than i paid. It was probably 10 years old atleast when i sold it.
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:36 PM   #8
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The white wire is the amp enable wire on the stock audio harness. This is the same wire that turns on the stock amp and the only switched power source located in the rear of the car. Thus it was an easy choice for using it--rather than saying here's a nice plug n play signal harness, except you'll have to locate a switched source up front and run a wire all the way to the back to turn your amp on. Nobody knows where to look for that and the radio doesn't exactly come out real easy either.

A little turn off thump is pretty common actually, but every amp seems to act differently to it. Some don't do it at all, while others are more pronounced. I noticed mine did this at first, but once I backed the gain off, it reduced it significantly. So that would be my first recommendation.
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:00 PM   #9
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Wow a precision power art series amp, that brings back memories. I used to have one of those, but mine was the all black version. An awesome amp, and worth money. I sold mine a couple years ago for more than i paid. It was probably 10 years old atleast when i sold it.
Hah! I was wondering when someone was going to say something about the PPI amp. Definitely old skool!

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A little turn off thump is pretty common actually, but every amp seems to act differently to it. Some don't do it at all, while others are more pronounced. I noticed mine did this at first, but once I backed the gain off, it reduced it significantly. So that would be my first recommendation.
Thanks Steve, I'll try that!
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:17 PM   #10
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Hah! I was wondering when someone was going to say something about the PPI amp. Definitely old skool!



Thanks Steve, I'll try that!
Yeah definitely old skool. Mine was an A600, no internal crossover and ran a pair of kicker comp 12s.
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:57 PM   #11
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Yeah definitely old skool. Mine was an A600, no internal crossover and ran a pair of kicker comp 12s.
My brother gave me this amp about 8 years ago for Christmas. He had almost every "art series" amp PPI ever made including the large A1200 series. Alas...he has sold them all. They do command top dollar though.

This amp had been sitting since he gave it to me. I finally decided it was time to put it to use.
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:11 PM   #12
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Wow, how old is your amp? I had a PP amp in 1993 that looks identical to that amp. Just curious.

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Old 11-15-2010, 07:21 AM   #13
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Wow, how old is your amp? I had a PP amp in 1993 that looks identical to that amp. Just curious.
1992.
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:01 AM   #14
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i was thinking same thing. i had one of those a long time ago. its amazing that tech in audio hasnt really changed all that much.
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:50 AM   #15
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How did you hook up your cables? I just hooked up my X3 harness and I'm getting a horrible high pitch from the speaker box and the sub does not work?

High pitch goes away when I unplug the RCA cables. Speaker tested fine inside?
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve@Subthump View Post
I noticed mine did this at first, but once I backed the gain off, it reduced it significantly. So that would be my first recommendation.
This was going to be my first suggestion. Followed by making sure the ground is good (yeah, I say that a lot, but it is a cause for a majority of issues) and maybe adding a ground loop isolator. Turn off/on pop is common with systems retaining the factory head unit, although with the harness and using the factory remote turn on, I would have thought it to be a little less of an issue.
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Old 11-15-2010, 12:55 PM   #17
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the harness and using the factory remote turn on, I would have thought it to be a little less of an issue.

The problem is the signal and remote power are not shut down simultaneously with this system. I belive the signal gets shut down first and then the remote voltage terminates a second later. Which means your aftermarket amp stays powered up for a fraction of a second after the signal disappears. This is akin to pulling out a rca cable out of the amp with the amp still powered up and that's the noise you hear sometimes. The higher the gain, the worse it sounds. The kicker amp I'm using now doesn't do it at all. But like I said, it varies from one amp to the next.
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:38 PM   #18
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How did you hook up your cables? I just hooked up my X3 harness and I'm getting a horrible high pitch from the speaker box and the sub does not work?

High pitch goes away when I unplug the RCA cables. Speaker tested fine inside?
I hooked them up exactly as shown in Steve@subthumps youtube video. Click the link below.

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Old 11-18-2010, 05:36 PM   #19
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Does one 12" sub way back there actually hit good?
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:55 PM   #20
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Does one 12" sub way back there actually hit good?
Let me put it to you this way...I had a JL stealthbox with a 10" JL sub in my 4th generation SS back in the day. With the 4th gens being a hatchback it was the perfect set-up for adding a subwoofer. My 10" in the hatch would hit harder than the 12" in the trunk of my current 5th gen...probably because the backseat in the 5th gen blocks out some of the volume. When I leave the backseat down it sounds muuuuch better.
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:04 PM   #21
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Let me put it to you this way...I had a JL stealthbox with a 10" JL sub in my 4th generation SS back in the day. With the 4th gens being a hatchback it was the perfect set-up for adding a subwoofer. My 10" in the hatch would hit harder than the 12" in the trunk of my current 5th gen...probably because the backseat in the 5th gen blocks out some of the volume. When I leave the backseat down it sounds muuuuch better.

Thanks, I'll go with the two subs to make sure it's loud.
Now I have to decide front or rear firing.


And I also have a special place in my heart for those PPI amps.
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:06 PM   #22
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Thanks, I'll go with the two subs to make sure it's loud.
Now I have to decide front or rear firing.


And I also have a special place in my heart for those PPI amps.
Get left and right Subthump boxes, put them in the corners and have them firing sideways towards each other.

PPI =
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:12 PM   #23
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ooooh... PPI Art series... so old-school sexy! love it!

my biggest suggestion - replace ALL of your Philips-head screws with security screws - the kind with the pin in the middle, you'll thank me later.

a trim piece over that amp would be easy to make and you could make it look very very clean looking with a view-hole

the turn-off pop... always tricky to locate. could be a bad ground (if this is an SS, run ground straight to your battery), could be the timing between the signal and the remote power turn-on...

you could always go buy the Stinger pop-stopper, its under 20.00... its essentially a delay device that you wire in-line and it solves the problem for you.

Excellent looking install though, that Subthump enclosure looks like it fits like a glove! Trim out that amp and you'll be sitting pretty! (dont forget to replace those screws!)
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:31 PM   #24
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ooooh... PPI Art series... so old-school sexy! love it!
Thanks for the advice!
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:54 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Hicompression View Post
Let me put it to you this way...I had a JL stealthbox with a 10" JL sub in my 4th generation SS back in the day. With the 4th gens being a hatchback it was the perfect set-up for adding a subwoofer. My 10" in the hatch would hit harder than the 12" in the trunk of my current 5th gen...probably because the backseat in the 5th gen blocks out some of the volume. When I leave the backseat down it sounds muuuuch better.
After staring at my trunk a bit, going to go with your set up. Just looks better, plus weighs less probably than a big box and two drivers.

Going to try a big amp and driver to see if it'll thump. Thanks for the pics/review!

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