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| 1st & 2nd Generation Camaros 1967-1969 Camaros / 1970-1981 Camaro |
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#1 |
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A.T.F. Performance Inc.
Drives: '67 Maroon ZZ4 & '69 RS Cortez Silv Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rock City, IL
Posts: 9
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Camaro/Firebird Super T10.....HELP!!
Hey fellas!
I have a Borg Warner Super T10 (I think) and I want to know exactly what it is? What it came out of? And any other info on the trans. Plus, I plan on putting it in my 67 Camaro.....any advice or suggestions? I know im going to need a different driveshaft yoke and clutch disc...what about crossmember? Will my stock Muncie corssmember work with this trans? Below are all the numbers off the trans. Thanks in advance! Main Case - 29L206435 4-25-79-2 MLT7802 (not positive...double stamped) 1304065903 W.G. NIV FpC4 Side Cover - D.25.79 Q7 1304097901 WF2792 (not positive) Levers - OUT 9067 OUT 9067 OUT 6392 Tail Shaft Housing - 1304066905 THANKS AGAIN! |
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#2 |
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'69 Owned Since '79
Drives: '69 Z/28 LeMans Blue w/White Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LR AR
Posts: 1,417
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I would get a tranny that belongs in there rather than force in a mutt tranny. Having the right parts will make your life much easier and cheaper in the long run. Shifters and linkages and crossmemebers and drive shafts and starters and bellhousings etc ALL will fit and function right. This goes double for you if you have a factory console. Been there, done that more than a few times. It can be done but it usualy isn't worth the hassle and expense.
Sell it now and pick up the right parts before you go in too far. ![]() -Mark. |
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#3 |
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A.T.F. Performance Inc.
Drives: '67 Maroon ZZ4 & '69 RS Cortez Silv Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rock City, IL
Posts: 9
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Thanks for the input. I have a M21 in it right now but Im gradually adding horsepower and its hooking harder. I dont want to break the Muncie but I want to keep a 4 speed. I got this Super T10 cheap and want to put it in. Its a stronger tranny and almost a direct replacement for a muncie. Besides a few small changes. Any info on the tranny itself would be helpful first. Thanks again.
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#4 |
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'69 Owned Since '79
Drives: '69 Z/28 LeMans Blue w/White Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LR AR
Posts: 1,417
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My advice - Overhaul the Muncie and put in a steel mid-plate kit from 5speeds.com I have my Muncie apart right now doing an overhaul and they have the best kit available. Just a little higher $ than the other guys but you are getting better parts. Forged synchros are better than cast like everyone else uses.
That T-10 is not stronger than a Muncie to begin with and if you do the mid plate upgrade you should be ready for some hooking. Call Paul and discuss it with him. -Mark. |
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#5 | |
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Not easy being Green
Drives: 67 Nova SS Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 2,518
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Quote:
![]() Plus you can get upgraded cases that are thicker and ton stronger.
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#6 |
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A.T.F. Performance Inc.
Drives: '67 Maroon ZZ4 & '69 RS Cortez Silv Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rock City, IL
Posts: 9
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Alright...thanks again for the advice. Regardless, I would still like to know what this tranny is. Whether I decide to use it or sell it. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
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#7 |
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Not easy being Green
Drives: 67 Nova SS Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 2,518
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Buy one of these books they are year specific and will help you out with any info on GM parts.
I would look it up, but can't seem to track mine down..
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Last edited by GrnMchin; 11-18-2010 at 09:43 PM. |
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#8 |
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Back on the dino-juice
Drives: '10 LS + a few more Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,661
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Google and search is your friend here. Are there any grooves on the input shaft and is it a 26-spline version? Richmond is still making them. Unless you have the cast iron cased st-10 it is weaker than the muncie you already have.
The Richmond web site has the torque ratings and they are fairly low. Part No. Description 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Rev. Torque 1304000070 2.43 “S” Ratio 2.43 1.61 1.23 1.00 2.35 375 Ft. Lbs. 1304000069 2.64 “W” Ratio 2.64 1.75 1.34 1.00 2.55 325 Ft. Lbs. 7021090 2.64 “X” Ratio 2.64 1.60 1.23 1.00 2.55 325 Ft. Lbs. 1304000072 2.88 “CC” Ratio 2.88 1.91 1.33 1.00 2.78 300 Ft. Lbs. 1304000062 2.88 “Y” Ratio 2.88 1.74 1.33 1.00 2.78 300 Ft. Lbs. 1304000071 3.42 “Z” Ratio 3.42 2.28 1.46 1.00 3.51 286 Ft. Lbs.
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I wake up in the morning and I piss excellence.-Ricky Bobby America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, badass speed. -Eleanor Roosevelt, 1936 |
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#9 |
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inconspicuous observer
Drives: 05 GTO Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dayton
Posts: 159
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some info
http://www.pontiacpower.org/BW.htm
- aluminum case WG - June, 27, 1979, 2nd shift. According to WF2792. Groove count on the input shaft will help identify ratios. __________________________________________________ I ran a super T10 in my 68 for 12 years. I am running a Tremec 6 speed now. - Clutch, you're ito install a new clutch and it will be a 26 spline disc. Yoke is 32 count ... ha - ha - ha. no pun - Crossmember, it will mount to your current cross member. I've used them that had saginaws bolted up. - Speedo gear is on the oppisite side, you will need a longer cable. - Driveshaft, have it shortened and balanced at local driveshaft place. - Shifter, B&M makes a shifter and bracket that will work with that set up.
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_________________________________ Dodges . . . we don't need no stinking Dodges `O~O> |
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#10 |
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A.T.F. Performance Inc.
Drives: '67 Maroon ZZ4 & '69 RS Cortez Silv Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rock City, IL
Posts: 9
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I found out the ST10 I had was a 3.42 low (no grooves) out of an 80 Camaro. Not what I want. So I was trying to sell it and I found a guy to trade me a 2.43 low (3 grooves) ST10 plus the shifter bracket and arms (which didnt work anyways) straight up. This trans has the highest torque rating out of them all being it is a close ratio. As of now the tranny is in the car with a new clutch. Im waiting on the shifter bracket from Hurst to give me the best shifter position. Driveshaft was shortened an inch as well. I will post pics when I get a chance. I think its going to work out after all. Thanks for all the input guys.
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#11 |
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'69 Owned Since '79
Drives: '69 Z/28 LeMans Blue w/White Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LR AR
Posts: 1,417
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Get yourself a big rubber shifter boot to cover the bigger hole in the floor. The console can go up in the attic.
![]() Sorry, I could not resist. ![]() -Mark. |
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#12 |
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A.T.F. Performance Inc.
Drives: '67 Maroon ZZ4 & '69 RS Cortez Silv Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rock City, IL
Posts: 9
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Its no big deal....I never had a console in the car anyways. Its far from an original car plus its more clean with just the boot IMO Heres what the interior looked like when the Muncie was in it.
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#13 |
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'69 Owned Since '79
Drives: '69 Z/28 LeMans Blue w/White Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LR AR
Posts: 1,417
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That looks pretty good. Clean and basic.
![]() I wanted to add a console and guage package to mine maybe 12 years ago and had to pull all the mismatched clutch/tranny stuff out to make it all work right. The '71 Muncie tranny went on ebay along with the aftermarket shifter, the custom driveshaft went to a guy locally who just happened to be at my place for something else. The big clutch and "621" bellhousing was also sold on Ebay but I kept the starter. I went back to 100% stock setup and now everything fits and finctions like original. There are times when I think it might have been better to just go with a OEM boot and no console but everyone likes/has the guages and stuff so I went ahead and put the setup in there. I had picked it up many years ago and just never got around to installing it. -Mark. |
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