Adam's Products

[2010 2-Tone]

I asked one of these questions a bit ago but thought I would have a new thread to get the correct answers on these several questions. First of all my paint is in really good shape, car sleeps in a garage and is NOT a DD.
1) What would be a step by step to get the best showroom shine? I know wash, dry, clay. The steps afterwards and the name of each product. I will be using a pc 7424. I have watched some of Junkman's videos but are still unsure on these steps. Thanks guys

[Dylan@Adams]

Sorry I didn't see this until just now... running around like a chicken with his head cut off today!!

There is going to have to be some evaluation and testing on your part to determine what the "Best" process for you would be, but I can definitely guide you along the way.

We have 3 pad types, and 3 corresponding polishes that work with them. As I'm sure you've seen we color code everything to eliminate the guesswork on your end.

Green Pad + Severe Swirl Remover - this is our most aggressive (and new) combo... really recommended for correction of heavier swirls and damage. It will remove in the range of 2000 grit sanding marks as a reference.

Orange pad + Swirl & Haze Remover - this is our medium cut stuff... probably best suited for correcting MOST common paint conditions. Medium to light swirling and things introduced thru the washing process or your average "dealer installed swirl marks"

White Pad + Fine Machine Polish - this is the product combo you will always be what you finish with. Its a very very very fine diminishing abrasive and a fine pad that will restore the gloss and take out the minor imperfections left behind by the other steps.

The way the system works you always step down in progression...

So if you start at green you follow with orange then white. If you start with orange you follow with white. If you start with white then you stop there and proceed to your wax/sealant/glaze.

As for your choice of last step products the 'no compromises' best, wettest look, my personal preference you'll go w/ Brilliant Glaze followed Americana Paste Wax.

If you want easy to apply on a budget Buttery wax would be the way to go.

For the most durable option in our line you want the Machine Superwax, which you can then top with the Glaze for added gloss/shine.

[Junkman2008]

I'll add this also. Polishing is what is going to make your paint shine. If you want your paint to shine, polish it first. Wax is going to protect the shine that you get from polishing.

The polish you choose to use is determined by the damage in your paint. Dylan has explained what damage each polish addresses so all you have to do is look at your paint and choose the proper polish. If the damage that you are addressing does not disappear after you address it, either repeat the process or move up to a more aggressive polish and pad (that is providing you are using the PC properly and your technique is dead on).

The process does not change if your car is new or 20 years old. What changes is which steps of the process you will complete, or where you will start in the process. If you truly understand what each step of the process is for and what it does, then what you need to do will come very easy.

So the question I have for you is, do you understand every step of the process as what each step does? Do you even know all the steps?

[2010 2-Tone]

Thanks Junkman, I have watched just about all of your videos. I now understand that I just need to learn the entire process and then it is really just deciding where to start because it is a step by step process. I will be buying the pc7424 soon and some product. Thanks alot to you and Dylan for taking your time explaining this to me. I will get better and better the more I do it and I will be able to help others as well with the Adam's products.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by 2010 2-Tone

... I will get better and better the more I do it and I will be able to help others as well with the Adam's products.

Exactly. And once you understand the process (which is so simple), you'll be like, "This isn't difficult or hard at all!"

Everyone starts at the beginning. Enjoy the trip.

[Iwantone2]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

Exactly. And once you understand the process (which is so simple), you'll be like, "This isn't difficult or hard at all!"

Everyone starts at the beginning. Enjoy the trip.

I can attest to Junkman's quote. It really wasn't that difficult to follow each process. It is time consuming for sure, but there is a difference between getting it done and getting it done right.

Dylan's breakdown of the process is very good and gives great explanation of each product.

These are words to live by...

[2010 2-Tone]

Originally Posted by Iwantone2

I can attest to Junkman's quote. It really wasn't that difficult to follow each process. It is time consuming for sure, but there is a difference between getting it done and getting it done right.

Dylan's breakdown of the process is very good and gives great explanation of each product.

These are words to live by...

Thanks for the words of encourgement. I went down a couple months ago to Cruise The Coast and really looked and the paint and the look of some of those cars and I knew I needed to get the products and knowledge if my paint is going to be better than the guy next to me. I will be buying the pc 7424 and a bunch of Adam's product.

[Iwantone2]

Originally Posted by 2010 2-Tone

Thanks for the words of encourgement. I went down a couple months ago to Cruise The Coast and really looked and the paint and the look of some of those cars and I knew I needed to get the products and knowledge if my paint is going to be better than the guy next to me. I will be buying the pc 7424 and a bunch of Adam's product.

No problem! And it really is worth the investment in the PC and Adam's products! I saw first-hand what the kit does to my car and I have no regrets purchasing it! You must realize that I've never used a PC before, so when I polished my car, it was only my second time using it. It really wasn't that difficult! Good luck!!

[Stex]

Heads Up! Adams is running a BlackFriday2010 15% off sale thru 12 PM the
30th. Put blackfriday2010 in the promotion code or just call Ashley...

I use almost all their products. After the paint stuff, try the green wheel cleaner (safe on all wheels) and VRT on the tires...In and out spray is good to...the name does make you think...

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-436-a...l-cleaner.aspx

http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-10-tires-trim.aspx

[Dylan@Adams]

thanks for the bump Stex... sale ends tomorrow at midnight!

[Gramps]

Your have basically a new car...so don't do anything to the paint that you don't have to...remember polishing with any type of abrasives...REMOVES paint (by leveling it)...don't let anybody kid you on that. How much you remove and to what extent you HAVE to remove is the question...in order to get that "like new" finish. Hopefully you only need a finishing polish with zero cut.

I also have a new Camaro...and the ONLY thing that it needs is to be washed at this point. The paint is near perfect and I don't need to run some machine over the paint...just because I can. I did clay the car when it was new to get the delivery crud off of it...and polished it with a jeweling polish that has zero cut. With a little luck, all I will only have to do is wash the car weekly...wax every 4 months...and maybe do a polish 2x a year (max) with a zero cut polish and pads with zero cut.

Older cars with tons of scratches and swirls....another story. You should not need a whole lot to do.

[Dr Jkel]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Your have basically a new car...so don't do anything to the paint that you don't have to...remember polishing REMOVES paint (by leveling it)...don't let anybody kid you on that. How much you remove and to what extent you HAVE to remove is the question ...in order to get that "like new" finish. I also have a new Camaro...and the ONLY thing that it needs is to be washed at this point. The paint is near perfect and I don't need to run some machine over the paint...just because I can. I did clay the car when it was new to get the delivery crud off of it...and polished it with a finishing polish that has zero cut-ability. With a little luck, all I will only have to wash the car weekly...wax every 4 months...and maybe do a polish 2x a year (max) with a zero cut polish and pads with zero cut.

Older cars with tons of scratches and swirls....another story.

Unfortunately for some of us, like me , I never really knew exactly how to properly care for paint and I got swirl city. I thought I was taking care of it but was actually grinding dust into the paint.

Although I have learned now what not to do, I still had to fix what I messed up to begin with.

[Stex]

Also some new cars/camaros/trucks come from the dealer needing correction.
I was looking at two red Camaros at the dealer yesterday. It was high noon and sun was out. Get the angle right and the paint looked like swirl city on both cars. So age should not be the only factor for needing/not needing correction.

[Dylan@Adams]

If you've seen the "wash" that happens to most new cars coming off the trailer or after they've sat on the lot a few days you'd understand why almost all new cars need paint correction - a lot of times not just minor correction either.

[Stex]

Agree, when I get a new ride I am there when it is still in plastic. My truck dealer had a touchless/blow dry wash and I let them us it once the plastic was off. On my future new C or Vet I will not let the dealer wash it off the truck unless it is the same set up.

Once you take the car do not let the dealers wash them...some people take them home dirty off the truck but you really need to have the dealer go over it to assure no damage..just let them know how you want it washed and bring your own mf towels for them to use.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by Stex

Agree, when I get a new ride I am there when it is still in plastic. My truck dealer had a touchless/blow dry wash and I let them us it once the plastic was off. On my future new C or Vet I will not let the dealer wash it off the truck unless it is the same set up.

Just an FYI, touchless is not necessarily a good thing. Click here to find out why.

[Uncle Harvey]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Your have basically a new car...so don't do anything to the paint that you don't have to...remember polishing with any type of abrasives...REMOVES paint (by leveling it)...don't let anybody kid you on that. How much you remove and to what extent you HAVE to remove is the question...in order to get that "like new" finish. Hopefully you only need a finishing polish with zero cut.

I also have a new Camaro...and the ONLY thing that it needs is to be washed at this point. The paint is near perfect and I don't need to run some machine over the paint...just because I can. I did clay the car when it was new to get the delivery crud off of it...and polished it with a jeweling polish that has zero cut. With a little luck, all I will only have to do is wash the car weekly...wax every 4 months...and maybe do a polish 2x a year (max) with a zero cut polish and pads with zero cut.

Older cars with tons of scratches and swirls....another story. You should not need a whole lot to do.

Gramps,

What jeweling polish did you use and was this a hand process? I have saw this term a few times and am not sure what the difference is in polishing and jeweling. How can this work with zero cut?

I used a PC and the Adams fine machine polish on my new car. It looked significantly better, after I finished this process. I understand that you remove a little clear coat when polishing the car. But based on some of the measurements that I saw in one of Todd's post, the amount of clear coat that is removed is very small. He used a meter to take measurement before and after polishing. His data showed minimal paint removal. If you can achieve the same results without polishing and removing any paint, I would love to learn how.

Thanks

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by Uncle Harvey

... If you can achieve the same results without polishing and removing any paint, I would love to learn how.

Thanks

You can't.

You can use glazes to fill in the damage and attempt to hide it but to actually remove the damage in your paint, you have to remove the layers of clear coat or paint that contain the actual damage. Sorta like peeling the skin on a onion. This is the reason once you completely remove all of the damage in your paint, you want to then use practices that will NOT require you to continually have to repair your paint. There is only so much clear coat or paint on your car and although the PC removes the smallest amount at a time, you still want to refrain from removing any at all if possible.

[garcmol]

Meguire's, Optimum, and Griot's Garage is all I see Gramps talk positively about. But specifics; Never seen him mention any. Not bashing, just an observation.

[Stex]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

Just an FYI, touchless is not necessarily a good thing. Click here to find out why.

Trust me Junkman I am with you on that. That is why I did not let them wipe it down. Thet had a blower system. I did it out out dumb luck as I had not seen your vid at that time!...

When I see a post of touchless wash I always warn not to wipe it down..and tag your vid..Thanks for the Vids. Between you, Adam and the forums I have learned a lot about proper car care and the vids are fun too!

[Junkman2008]

Glad we could help.

[CamaroDreams07]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Your have basically a new car...so don't do anything to the paint that you don't have to...remember polishing with any type of abrasives...REMOVES paint (by leveling it)...don't let anybody kid you on that. How much you remove and to what extent you HAVE to remove is the question...in order to get that "like new" finish. Hopefully you only need a finishing polish with zero cut.

I also have a new Camaro...and the ONLY thing that it needs is to be washed at this point. The paint is near perfect and I don't need to run some machine over the paint...just because I can. I did clay the car when it was new to get the delivery crud off of it...and polished it with a jeweling polish that has zero cut. With a little luck, all I will only have to do is wash the car weekly...wax every 4 months...and maybe do a polish 2x a year (max) with a zero cut polish and pads with zero cut.

Older cars with tons of scratches and swirls....another story. You should not need a whole lot to do.

How exactly do you "polish" with zero cut pads and polish???? The very definition of polish is removing clear to level out the surface... You say don't let anybody kid you about polishing removing clear (not paint hopefully), but I don't think any of us are in denial about that- it's what needs to be done. Now, how exactly you're doing it the other way, I'm eager to learn.

[Kunihiro]

Originally Posted by 2010 2-Tone

I asked one of these questions a bit ago but thought I would have a new thread to get the correct answers on these several questions. First of all my paint is in really good shape, car sleeps in a garage and is NOT a DD.
1) What would be a step by step to get the best showroom shine? I know wash, dry, clay. The steps afterwards and the name of each product. I will be using a pc 7424. I have watched some of Junkman's videos but are still unsure on these steps. Thanks guys

If you're going Porter Cable, here's where I buy the majority of my stuff:

http://topoftheline.com/porcabpolpac.html

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by Kunihiro

If you're going Porter Cable, here's where I buy the majority of my stuff:

http://topoftheline.com/porcabpolpac.html

Yea, but if you have any issues with your order or you simply don't like the product, will they totally refund the purchase price with no questions asked if you request it? Adam's does, and they're a site sponsor.

[Iwantone2]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

Yea, but if you have any issues with your order or you simply don't like the product, will they totally refund the purchase price with no questions asked if you request it? Adam's does, and they're a site sponsor.

Adam's FTMFW!!!!