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| Cosmetic Maintenance: Washing, Waxing, Detailing, Bodywork, Protection Anything related to keeping your Camaro clean and in good cosmetic condition. |
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#1 |
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Redline drop, or go home
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Overland Park
Posts: 267
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Adam's guys, step inside.
Ever since i purchased some products from Adam's, all i have to say is WOW. truly amazing products! I've had one experience though, that's kinda puzzled me. It's been rainy today, and finally let off about 1pm and i decided to give my car a bath since i had to drive her to work today. After washing and spraying the whole car with the detailing spray (as per the dvd) i started drying, and everything except the roof and trunk panel turned out spectacular as usual. The roof and trunk was hazy, almost like it wasn't drying particularly well. Even though i kept going over the areas with microfiber and the detailing spray, it just kept hazing over. I'm assuming this is due to the high humidity levels in the air, and it just wasn't taking the last bit of water/detailing spray off of the paint. I finally used my calfskin chamois in these two areas, and the haze lifted right off. So, I guess the question is: was the humidity levels in the air causing the haze, or was it my own technique causing the issue? Thanks guys!
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I can fix cars. I can't fix people.
2010 Camaro SS #123444 - K&N Typhoon CAI, Muffler Delete, MPD-1 Spoiler, Headlight Armor Blackouts. Mods to come: longtubes/tune/flux capacitor Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 325 with a slight draw Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: East Lansing, MI
Posts: 6,322
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Hmm.. I'm gonna say humidity because I've never seen that on mine. Perhaps your drying towels were oversaturated by that point and were just pushing water around...I don't know. I might put an extra coat of wax on the trouble areas (or heck, the whole car) and see if that doesn't make any difference.
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#3 |
![]() Drives: 2011 1LT/RJT/Auto/ Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Western NY
Posts: 103
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I've never understood the step of covering the car completely with detail spray prior to wiping down after a wash...other than to sell more detail spray. You want a perfect dry down without all that product needing to be wiped off every time you wash..?...after you wash, run the rinse water from your hose with no nozzle attached. If you car has any kind of LSP on it...the water should sheet off beautifully, leaving only a tiny bit of water. Then take out the leave blower and get as much of the water that is left off as possible. you won't get it all...but you will get it to the point where a final wipe with a good microfiber drying towel is all that you need. There is no streaking or hazing possible. When I do a final wipe...my MF drying towel is barely damp to the touch because there is so little water to dry off.
Another point...Detail Sprays offer NO protection, so for me, they are a complete waste of time. If I'm going to take the time and effort to wipe the paint, I better be getting some protection out of it...just "looking good" doesn't cut it for me. A good spray wax is preferred,and some even work good for a drying agent (Griot's Garage spray wax is a perfect substitute for detail spray for those that think they need a drying agent to dry a car properly)...and you get the protection of wax between washes. I also love Ultimate's new Spray wax. Pinnacle's Souveran spray wax is awesome too. I haven't used detail sprays in over 2 years. For those who think they can't live without them...try a good spray wax, or one of the new waterless wash products. Detail spray in my mind is a waste of money because newer products have made them pretty much obsolete.
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 325 with a slight draw Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: East Lansing, MI
Posts: 6,322
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Quote:
Detail spray makes drying easier. Simple fact. Spray Adam's DS on a wet car and watch the water retreat. A light mist of detail spray cuts down drying time and leaves a shinier finish. If you don't wanna take the time, that's fine. But it takes like 10 seconds to mist the car before drying, and that time is easily made up for in less drying time. Then you can proceed with your LSP for protection, locking in that shine the DS gave you. Addressing the other bolded statement, a good wax (not that cheap-o spray wax) should last about 6 months. So you already have wax protection between washes. Not really sure what you're talking about. You keep adding a layer of wax everytime you dry the car and you'll surely cloud the finish. Of course, if you're just using most sprays, then it's probably not lasting anyway, and you would need to apply more after each wash.
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#5 |
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I be damned if I can understand why people can not talk to each other in a reasonable way. For Gods sake we are talking about washing cars here. Folks can use whatever product or technique they want. No one has to follow. We should be able to make a point without using words like Cheap-o, simplistic, etc. There are lots of places to vent on the net. This is not the place.
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#6 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 325 with a slight draw Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: East Lansing, MI
Posts: 6,322
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Quote:
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#7 |
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Banned
Drives: 2010, 2SS, IOM/CGM Stripes, 4/24/10 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 871
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I'm new to the ultra detailing of a car. I've always detailed mine old school but it left much to be desired for a show room look. I've learned lot's from people on this and other sites. I appreciate the input and I'm hoping some appreciate my input on same. There are so many ideas and methods. Just rigged up my leaf blower and am looking forward to my next wash and wax to see if I can get ride of the swirls that are left behind by my chamois. I think I've taken 5% of everyone advise and made my own 100%!!!!
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#8 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Avalanche Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,155
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Temperatures and humidity will definitely change the way products behave, especially during the drying process. This same scenario seems to happen to me if I'm drying and it colder than say 60* out early in the morning.
Generally I just get the bulk of the water off, then come back a few moments later with a plush towel and another mist of DS, wipe gently and its gone. I'd suspect it was the temp/humidity... but thats not to say something else wasn't to blame... just so many variables that could have impacted it.
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#9 | |
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#10 | |
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Redline drop, or go home
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Overland Park
Posts: 267
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Quote:
hey thanks dylan, i went out to the car this morning around 7 and it was still shining like a champ, i'm pretty sure it was just the close-to 100% humidity bringing everything to the surface. again, you guys have AMAZING products! i'll NEVER use anything else on my car!
__________________
I can fix cars. I can't fix people.
2010 Camaro SS #123444 - K&N Typhoon CAI, Muffler Delete, MPD-1 Spoiler, Headlight Armor Blackouts. Mods to come: longtubes/tune/flux capacitor Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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