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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 12-01-2010, 03:14 AM   #1
6bloodychunks

 
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idle is higher after getting my muffler delete...why?

ok, just got my muffler delete done today,

and i noticed it is idling higher now by at least a couple hundred rpm.

and when i rev it it takes longer for the rpm's to come back down.


any thoughts?
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:28 AM   #2
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never heard of an issue with a muffler delete... is it an auto? maybe try a battery disconnect/fuse pull? only thing i could think of...and im just guessing haha
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:31 AM   #3
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could be the computer resetting and or adjusting itself.... driving it a 20 miles or so may help that.
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Old 12-01-2010, 08:25 PM   #4
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could be the computer resetting and or adjusting itself.... driving it a 20 miles or so may help that.
drove it alot today, it still does it.

would i have to do a fuse pull after changing the exhaust??
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:59 PM   #5
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The problem is that the low-end torque meter is out of calibration due the new reduced back pressure -see it all the time.
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:02 PM   #6
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thats weird bro I have my muffler delete for a little over 6 months now and never had any problems w/ it. Love the way it sounds BTW.

Try the fuse pull??
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:06 PM   #7
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The problem is that the low-end torque meter is out of calibration due the new reduced back pressure -see it all the time.
this sounds quite logical to me
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:09 PM   #8
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The problem is that the low-end torque meter is out of calibration due the new reduced back pressure -see it all the time.
so whats the fix for this??

btw ,I DEFINATELY LOVE THE WAY IT SOUNDS!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:21 PM   #9
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I had a muffler delete for at least 3500 miles and never had an issue with the idle.
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:27 PM   #10
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I had a muffler delete for at least 3500 miles and never had an issue with the idle.

its very very slight,it only raised the idle by about 200rpm or so.

but i noticed that when i let off the gas and push in the clutch to shift

the motors rpm climbs slightly between shifts with my foot off the throttle.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:02 AM   #11
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its very very slight,it only raised the idle by about 200rpm or so. but i noticed that when i let off the gas and push in the clutch to shift the motors rpm climbs slightly between shifts with my foot off the throttle.
Sounds very suspicious. Did you do the delete or did someone else do it for you? Was it on a rack or a drive over "pit"? It almost (probably not) sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere but since I am no expert on the LS3 and the new electronics I am speaking old school. There are so many sensors and microprocessors on these cars I yield to the gurus in here. I will be following this with interest.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:14 AM   #12
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Sounds very suspicious. Did you do the delete or did someone else do it for you? Was it on a rack or a drive over "pit"? It almost (probably not) sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere but since I am no expert on the LS3 and the new electronics I am speaking old school. There are so many sensors and microprocessors on these cars I yield to the gurus in here. I will be following this with interest.

i had it done at a good shop localy, he did a great job, it was raised on a 2 post rack,

he had me behind the car telling him when the pipes were centered in the square chrome pieces of the ground effects,

then he would weld em in place.

i think he did a fantastic job,but now i am noticing the idle thing.

and the rpm increase between shifts does sound like an air leak, but i dont see how the guy that deleted them for me could have done something to it because he only stood under the rear of the car.

surely there arent any vacuum lines in the rear............are there? LOL
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:55 AM   #13
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Was your battery disconnected during the welding? Read other posts that stated "disconnect battery before doing any welding"....maybe an expert can chime in as what could have happened if this was not done??
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:53 AM   #14
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Was your battery disconnected during the welding? Read other posts that stated "disconnect battery before doing any welding"....maybe an expert can chime in as what could have happened if this was not done??
no, my battery wasnt disconnected during the welding.

what could this have hurt??????

leave it to me to screw something up.......
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Old 12-02-2010, 03:50 PM   #15
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so whats the fix for this??

btw ,I DEFINATELY LOVE THE WAY IT SOUNDS!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry buddy, I was just joking around.

I know that your problem is really bugging you, so I thought I would make it clear that my comment was just a fun poke at the the back-pressure-theory folks).
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Old 12-02-2010, 03:58 PM   #16
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Sorry buddy, I was just joking around.

I know that your problem is really bugging you, so I thought I would make it clear that my comment was just a fun poke at the the back-pressure-theory folks).
lol I thought your were joking but I lol'd harder when the other guy thought it was true!
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:04 PM   #17
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Sorry buddy, I was just joking around.

I know that your problem is really bugging you, so I thought I would make it clear that my comment was just a fun poke at the the back-pressure-theory folks).
yeah yeah,ya got me LOL

i was like "hey ,never heard of that so maybe he knows what he is talking about" LOL

good one
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Old 12-03-2010, 04:30 AM   #18
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U had just the mufflers deleted. There is no sensors at the mufflers so disconnecting the battery or not has nothing to do with it. If I was you, I would bring it in and just dont bring attention to the fact it started after you did a muffler delete. Let them hook it up and factory retune it. Probabaly is just one of the many lil electrical bugs these cars are susceptible to.
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:01 AM   #19
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i had it done at a good shop localy, he did a great job, it was raised on a 2 post rack,

he had me behind the car telling him when the pipes were centered in the square chrome pieces of the ground effects,

then he would weld em in place.

i think he did a fantastic job,but now i am noticing the idle thing.

and the rpm increase between shifts does sound like an air leak, but i dont see how the guy that deleted them for me could have done something to it because he only stood under the rear of the car.

surely there arent any vacuum lines in the rear............are there? LOL
Yes, by the fuel tank are evap system vacuum lines. I'd have it put up on a hoist and everything checked over. A 200 rpm idle change is a sign of something wrong.

There is no backpressure change in removing the mufflers, the OE's are straight through. There is nothing for the computer to reset or adjust to so I wouldn't mess with that.

If the idle is actually 200 rpm higher now, their is something wrong. I believe in the - you touched it - theory. When a problem starts, look at the area that was just touched. When sparks are flying from welding or cutting, who knows if one didn't land on a hose and burn a hole.

I'd take it back to the install shop, tell them exactly what is happening and see if they will put it up on a hoist and look over everything back there. Also pop the hood and make sure all is in place under there. All the hoses, oil cap, air intake... anything to do with the PCV, intake, and Evap system.

An engine that is idling too high from what the ECM is commanding is often caused by excess air coming in.
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:07 AM   #20
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i will take it back down to them and look it over,

as someone else said i set the cruise control today and pushed in the clutch and the cruise disengaged so its not the clutch switch/sensor.

does someone have a pic of where the vacuum lines are located back by the fuel tank? so i know where to look?




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Yes, by the fuel tank are evap system vacuum lines. I'd have it put up on a hoist and everything checked over. A 200 rpm idle change is a sign of something wrong.

There is no backpressure change in removing the mufflers, the OE's are straight through. There is nothing for the computer to reset or adjust to so I wouldn't mess with that.

If the idle is actually 200 rpm higher now, their is something wrong. I believe in the - you touched it - theory. When a problem starts, look at the area that was just touched. When sparks are flying from welding or cutting, who knows if one didn't land on a hose and burn a hole.

I'd take it back to the install shop, tell them exactly what is happening and see if they will put it up on a hoist and look over everything back there. Also pop the hood and make sure all is in place under there. All the hoses, oil cap, air intake... anything to do with the PCV, intake, and Evap system.

An engine that is idling too high from what the ECM is commanding is often caused by excess air coming in.
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:46 AM   #21
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I would still take it to and have it scanned for a faulty clutch switch. Mine worked periodically until it just went. The cruise control test is a hit and miss thing.
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Old 12-03-2010, 12:01 PM   #22
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I would still take it to and have it scanned for a faulty clutch switch. Mine worked periodically until it just went. The cruise control test is a hit and miss thing.
im still going to take it to the dealer to get the clutch switch checked,

but it seems like the vacuum lines by the tank are probably going to be the culprit,

it makes sense.........sparks flying everywhere getting the delete done,

and then immediately after that it started acting like this.
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:49 AM   #23
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Im guessing maybe becuase theres less back pressure? it lets more out easier. Just a thought
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:37 PM   #24
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i had thought about the reduced back pressure thing,

but after learning that there are vacuum lines in the area that they were working on i imagine thats what it is.

still havent had a chance to get under the car,its too cold and wet and snowy LOL
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:23 PM   #25
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If it is one of the evap lines back there is leaking, the check engine light will be on soon. So if the light never comes on, you really don't have to check all the evap lines under there by the fuel tank. Every time you start the car it does an evap system leak test. If you've driven it a few times/days after the problem started and the check engine light is still not on, then the evap system has no leaks. If the problem continues someone may need to use a scanner to check everything out.
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