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Old 12-02-2010, 09:13 AM   #1
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Question what will happen if you dont disconnect the battery before welding exhaust???

ok, had my muffler delete done a few days ago.

but i didnt know i was supposed to disconnect the battery before welding on the car.

now the car is idling slightly higher than it was,and the rpm's climb slightly between shifts.

what could i have possibly screwed up by doing that?

HELP!!!
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:32 AM   #2
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anyone?
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:43 AM   #3
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If it's still acting up after a few days of driving, I'd have someone with a scanner look at the data. Generally if something electronic got messed up, it would trigger the check engine light. So that's a good sign if no warning lights are on.

A scanner check by someone that knows what they are doing will show them if all the sensors are reading correctly. Such as the MAF, O2's, temp...

One DIY thing you could do is disconnect the battery for a few minutes. You will then have to reindex the windows (in the owner's manual). See if it normalizes after a couple of days of driving after the battery disconnect.
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6bloodychunks View Post
ok, had my muffler delete done a few days ago.

but i didnt know i was supposed to disconnect the battery before welding on the car.

now the car is idling slightly higher than it was,and the rpm's climb slightly between shifts.

what could i have possibly screwed up by doing that?

HELP!!!
Definately not related, I has been said that if you weld without disconnecting the battery it will Fry the computer and the car will not run.

I have been welding on cars without disconnecting battery for more than 25 years and never experienced a single problem.

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Old 12-02-2010, 09:54 AM   #5
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If it's still acting up after a few days of driving, I'd have someone with a scanner look at the data. Generally if something electronic got messed up, it would trigger the check engine light. So that's a good sign if no warning lights are on.

A scanner check by someone that knows what they are doing will show them if all the sensors are reading correctly. Such as the MAF, O2's, temp...

One DIY thing you could do is disconnect the battery for a few minutes. You will then have to reindex the windows (in the owner's manual). See if it normalizes after a couple of days of driving after the battery disconnect.
i will look into disconnecting the battery.

but what specificaly could it possibly have hurt by leaving the battery hooked up?

im worried that i hurt my baby.
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:10 AM   #6
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i will look into disconnecting the battery.

but what specificaly could it possibly have hurt by leaving the battery hooked up?

im worried that i hurt my baby.
From a logical standpoint the argument for harming your vehicle while welding with your battery plugged in doesn't have much ground to stand on.

First, since welding creates a lot of heat, if any damage was to be done it'd be from melted parts, this would happen whether or not the battery was plugged in.

Second, When the car is off, the battery is used to power devices in "sleep" mode. They are typically not performing any active operations, maybe the onstar module, but nothing else needs to be doing anything except storing memory.

Third, If you melted the battery while it was on, there is a very minimal possibility that could cause a power surge briefly, however, your car has a fuse box for a reason, if this surge occurred, any fuses with a current overload would be blown and your electronic components would be saved. I'd be more worried about the acid leaking out of the battery.

Forth, melting through your power cable somehow would in effect be the same as unplugging your battery. So if that's part of the argument, you can rest assured that severing a cable is the same thing as unplugging it from an electronic standpoint. The conductivity change due to heating the cable would be minimized by the length of the cable anyway.
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:23 AM   #7
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EVERY manufacturer says to disconnect the battery before you do damn near anything to your car. That's a standard response. Hell, several of the CAI instructions tell you to do that as well. The only thing electrical on a CAI is the MAF and it's unplugged. If welding on your car is going to mess it up, i'd highly doubt it would even run.
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:27 AM   #8
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From a logical standpoint the argument for harming your vehicle while welding with your battery plugged in doesn't have much ground to stand on.

First, since welding creates a lot of heat, if any damage was to be done it'd be from melted parts, this would happen whether or not the battery was plugged in.

Second, When the car is off, the battery is used to power devices in "sleep" mode. They are typically not performing any active operations, maybe the onstar module, but nothing else needs to be doing anything except storing memory.

Third, If you melted the battery while it was on, there is a very minimal possibility that could cause a power surge briefly, however, your car has a fuse box for a reason, if this surge occurred, any fuses with a current overload would be blown and your electronic components would be saved. I'd be more worried about the acid leaking out of the battery.

Forth, melting through your power cable somehow would in effect be the same as unplugging your battery. So if that's part of the argument, you can rest assured that severing a cable is the same thing as unplugging it from an electronic standpoint. The conductivity change due to heating the cable would be minimized by the length of the cable anyway.



hmmm,so could the increased idle be attributed to the loss in back pressure from cutting the stock mufflers off??

i have only had the car a few days,and im worried i screwed something up.
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:35 AM   #9
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hmmm,so could the increased idle be attributed to the loss in back pressure from cutting the stock mufflers off??

i have only had the car a few days,and im worried i screwed something up.
There is very little, back pressure from the OEM mufflers. They are big and bulky but they are straight through. I highly doubt that's the culprit. Just how high is your idle? Have you done the fuse pull to reset the PCM?
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:44 AM   #10
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There is very little, back pressure from the OEM mufflers. They are big and bulky but they are straight through. I highly doubt that's the culprit. Just how high is your idle? Have you done the fuse pull to reset the PCM?
it was originaly idling around 500rpm, now its idling around 700rom.

and when i push in the clutch to shift the rpms increase slightly,like its gassing itself slightly.

i did a fuse pull when i first got the car, but not since i had the mufflers deleted.

should i do the fuse pull again?
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:50 AM   #11
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Just putting this out there..... You may be noticing your idle more now because you can actually hear your car at idle. I noticed what you are describing.... mostly when the engine is cold tho. Just my $.02
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:51 AM   #12
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Dude you're in PA, maybe it's getting cold out and the computer is telling the car to idle up a hair to comensate for the colder/dryer air. Not sure if that's it but it could be. Trust everyone. You're fine, it's 200 rpm. And do your self a favor, buy a real exhaust. You may think the delete sounds good, it doesn't hold a candle to an engineered exhaust.
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:14 AM   #13
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About the only thing the service manual says can cause a high idle is a vacuum leak, such as an open PCV vacuum line or EVAP vacuum line.

Did they open the hood at all?

I'd make sure there are no hoses off, such as the one going to the intake from the pcv line. Oil cap on tight.

Maybe they burned through one of the evap hoses in the back going to the tank. If they did the check engine light will be on soon. The EVAP system checks for vacuum leaks every drive the gas tank is between 10 and 90% full. After two drives, if there is a leak, it will turn on the check engine light.

If they didn't open the hood. My wild guess would be an evap vacuum line in the back is off. I'd take it back and ask them to put it up on a hoist and take a close look around the back where they were working. Find all the evap hoses back by the tank and make sure none got damaged.
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:16 AM   #14
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its just driving me nuts,

and since it only did it after the muffler delete i figured that was the reason.

i know for sure that it didnt raise the rpm in between shifts until after i did the delete,

anything else it could be?
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:19 AM   #15
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About the only thing the service manual says can cause a high idle is a vacuum leak, such as an open PCV vacuum line or EVAP vacuum line.

Did they open the hood at all?

I'd make sure there are no hoses off, such as the one going to the intake from the pcv line. Oil cap on tight.

Maybe they burned through one of the evap hoses in the back going to the tank. If they did the check engine light will be on soon. The EVAP system checks for vacuum leaks every drive the gas tank is between 10 and 90% full. After two drives, if there is a leak, it will turn on the check engine light.

If they didn't open the hood. My wild guess would be an evap vacuum line in the back is off. I'd take it back and ask them to put it up on a hoist and take a close look around the back where they were working. Find all the evap hoses back by the tank and make sure none got damaged.


hmm now this sounds like a possibility, where are these lines located?

anybody have a picture so i know what im looking for?
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:32 AM   #16
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Do you have an auto or manual? If its a manual then I think I know what it is. I had this exact same issue with my previous car. Idle was higher and everytime I stepped on the clutch the rpm's would jump up and then drop. After checking all the hose lines, scanning everythinng and what not it turned out to be a faulty clutch switch/sensor. this switch or sensor send a signal to the ecu that the clutch has been depressed and the engine rpm's drop accordingly. When the switch starts to go the signal is delayed and progressivly gets worse over time. Take it to the dealer and ask them to check that specific thing. It should be fixed under warranty.
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:31 PM   #17
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Do you have an auto or manual? If its a manual then I think I know what it is. I had this exact same issue with my previous car. Idle was higher and everytime I stepped on the clutch the rpm's would jump up and then drop. After checking all the hose lines, scanning everythinng and what not it turned out to be a faulty clutch switch/sensor. this switch or sensor send a signal to the ecu that the clutch has been depressed and the engine rpm's drop accordingly. When the switch starts to go the signal is delayed and progressivly gets worse over time. Take it to the dealer and ask them to check that specific thing. It should be fixed under warranty.
yes, its a manual.

wow,that really sounds like it could be what is happening.

you wouldnt think a car with only 1800 miles would have the clutch switch go bad.

great, i will have them check it out.

the rpm's dont go up when im sitting still and depress the clutch.

only when i am moving and applying throttle and then when i leave off the throttle and push in the clutch the rpm's go up.
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:40 PM   #18
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yes, its a manual.

wow,that really sounds like it could be what is happening.

you wouldnt think a car with only 1800 miles would have the clutch switch go bad.

great, i will have them check it out.

the rpm's dont go up when im sitting still and depress the clutch.

only when i am moving and applying throttle and then when i leave off the throttle and push in the clutch the rpm's go up.

Yup, I had the same symtoms and after a month of searching and research it turned out to be a $7 part lol. These are high useage parts and at the slightest sign of wear it will have an affect on the performance. I would be interested to see what your dealer or mechanic says, if thats the case.
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:50 PM   #19
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Yup, I had the same symtoms and after a month of searching and research it turned out to be a $7 part lol. These are high useage parts and at the slightest sign of wear it will have an affect on the performance. I would be interested to see what your dealer or mechanic says, if thats the case.
$7 part? how hard is it to put on?
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:18 PM   #20
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I didn't do the repair myself because it was covered under warranty so the dealership did it. I think it was a 2 hour job. I can't recall as to where the sensor was located but I remember it was near the transmission/clutch assembly.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:37 PM   #21
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Do you have an auto or manual? If its a manual then I think I know what it is. I had this exact same issue with my previous car. Idle was higher and everytime I stepped on the clutch the rpm's would jump up and then drop. After checking all the hose lines, scanning everythinng and what not it turned out to be a faulty clutch switch/sensor. this switch or sensor send a signal to the ecu that the clutch has been depressed and the engine rpm's drop accordingly. When the switch starts to go the signal is delayed and progressivly gets worse over time. Take it to the dealer and ask them to check that specific thing. It should be fixed under warranty.
Did old cars (before sensors) have an idle RPM jump if you depressed the clutch because of reduced load or something? Just curious. In my old truck EVERY problem my truck had was due to a sensor. Nothing mechanical broke, only sensors broke. It's kind of sad, my truck behaved pretty badly sometimes. I lost hundreds/thousands of dollars (over 5 years) having mechanics try to trace down problems that were the sensor's fault the whole time.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:50 PM   #22
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Easiest way to check the clutch switch is put it in cruise control at highway speed... and push the clutch in. The cruise should immediately disengage. If the cruise doesn't work at all, or doesn't dissengage when the clutch is pushed in, then the switch may not be working. I doubt that's the problem.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:01 PM   #23
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Easiest way to check the clutch switch is put it in cruise control at highway speed... and push the clutch in. The cruise should immediately disengage. If the cruise doesn't work at all, or doesn't dissengage when the clutch is pushed in, then the switch may not be working. I doubt that's the problem.
Yea, the cruise control won't work at all if the clutch switch is going or gone. Thats the tell tale sign.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:03 PM   #24
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Did old cars (before sensors) have an idle RPM jump if you depressed the clutch because of reduced load or something? Just curious. In my old truck EVERY problem my truck had was due to a sensor. Nothing mechanical broke, only sensors broke. It's kind of sad, my truck behaved pretty badly sometimes. I lost hundreds/thousands of dollars (over 5 years) having mechanics try to trace down problems that were the sensor's fault the whole time.
I hear ya. Evertime something goes wrong now I go to the sensors, sending units, relays first and go from there.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:43 PM   #25
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Easiest way to check the clutch switch is put it in cruise control at highway speed... and push the clutch in. The cruise should immediately disengage. If the cruise doesn't work at all, or doesn't dissengage when the clutch is pushed in, then the switch may not be working. I doubt that's the problem.
ill try that,im going to the store here in a little bit.

im kinda hoping this is what it is and not something more serious.
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