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Old 01-07-2013, 12:56 PM   #51
Ace1USMC
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS LS3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HubStep View Post
Yikes.... I'd never let them touch my Camaro. Idk, I subscribe to the thought that when it's mine no one will do a better job then me. (Then again I'm sort of a perfectionist)
I agree 150%! I wish more Camaro owners felt like you do cause I feel like wrenching on our own cars is becoming a lost art or man-skill.

I also would NOT recommend using T-taps anywhere on our cars. Even though the speaker wires don't do this, most of the wiring in our cars is multiplexed wiring - meaning the wires carry more than just 12-volts - in many cases, they also pulse data to various controllers. And if you are replacing the factory speakers, then use the factory plugs off of the speakers to your new speakers. That way you are assured good, viable connections.

If any of you are interested, here's a detailed write up on how I did speakers in my Roxanne.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...1&l=7e40c66d93
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:03 PM   #52
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If I read the FB pics correctly, you gutted the rear speakers from the bottom and reinstalled new ones without taking the back apart?

I have always wondered if this could be done.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:12 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by YOUNGnRECKLESS View Post
quick question here, i have an amo and sub and aftemarket speakers are my next venture. When I installed a new DDIN head unit, upon raising the volume more than halfway, my speakers would distort. does this just mean i need new front and rears? or should i get a 4 channel amp when i replace them as well? Sorry to post here, but no one has been able to answer me anywhere else....would love some help
I know your post is old, and you probably have replaced the factory amp setup by now, but in case someone else comes along with the same questions...

First off, the Metra kit (I have it too) doesn't make it clear that if you are using a high-powered after-market head unit (HU), then the best way to hook it up if you are using the factory amp and speakers would be to use the signal from the RCA's coming out of your HU, get adapters or make your own to go from RCA to a bare 2-wire connection for each channel. The factory amp needs LOW-LEVEL signal in order to process the sound correctly. The high power signal from the speaker out leads on your HU are too powerful to properly drive the factory amp. That's where the distortion is coming from that you're hearing.

Another thing is, if you are using the Metra Kit with an aftermarket HU AND replacing the factory AMP/speakers - then the best thing to do would be to bypass most of the wiring in the Metra kit, and run RCA's directly back to your AMP setup. This will give you the cleanest sound.

Anyone can feel free to PM me if you have any questions - I would be happy to help in any way I can.

BLESSINGS!
Sam
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:15 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Moriartii View Post
If I read the FB pics correctly, you gutted the rear speakers from the bottom and reinstalled new ones without taking the back apart?

I have always wondered if this could be done.
Cheers
K
Hey K,

Actually, I did take the factory speakers out by removing the rear deck panel. But since I did, and saw it was such an incredible PITA to take that panel out, I drilled new holes for the new speakers, and then put in bolts from the top down, secured the bolts, and mounted the new speakers from the bottom up from inside the trunk. That way, if I ever wanna change out the rear speakers to something else, I can do it easily without having to take the entire interior apart again.

BLESSINGS!
Sam
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:31 PM   #55
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Ah gotcha!
Good idea!
Cheers
K
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:54 PM   #56
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Can you supply a little more info on the "air bag" wire ? Did you disconnect it from the back window trim or from the vehicle? How do you disconnect it ? Thanks
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:16 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by emtae001 View Post
Can you supply a little more info on the "air bag" wire ? Did you disconnect it from the back window trim or from the vehicle? How do you disconnect it ? Thanks
You disconnect it from the trim piece. Onced the trim piece has been pulled out of its place, it will still be attached to the air bag wire. If I remember correctly, you have to hold the trim piece with one hand and with the other, pull the air bag wire toward the front of the vehicle(away from the back window).

There is a sort of like a groove in the trim piece where the air bag wire is attached to the trim piece. It's not screwed in. It's just held in place by sliding it into the groove in the trim piece.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:59 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by ZeuSS2011 View Post
You disconnect it from the trim piece. Onced the trim piece has been pulled out of its place, it will still be attached to the air bag wire. If I remember correctly, you have to hold the trim piece with one hand and with the other, pull the air bag wire toward the front of the vehicle(away from the back window).

There is a sort of like a groove in the trim piece where the air bag wire is attached to the trim piece. It's not screwed in. It's just held in place by sliding it into the groove in the trim piece.
Awesome! Thanks !
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:00 AM   #59
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Are you guys sure you're not mistaking the rear defroster connection for an air bag wire?

If you are talking about the purple wire you see in this picture, it's part of the rear defroster.

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Old 03-31-2013, 12:08 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by darkrider01 View Post
Are you guys sure you're not mistaking the rear defroster connection for an air bag wire?

If you are talking about the purple wire you see in this picture, it's part of the rear defroster.

It's not the the purple wire for the defroster. Wouldn't even call it a wire. More like a thin strap of some sort that attaches to the trim piece. I may be wrong, but think its meant to keep the trim piece from flying out when the airbag deploys.
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:58 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by meschwenk View Post
It seems like a lot of work the first time that you do it, if I had to do it again it would take about a quarter of the time. I had never done this before so I went slow and it took most of the day to do. The new adapters from www.subthump.com did not come with any instructions, but it looked easy enough to install.



you could use this adapter from the bottom or the top because the screw holes for the adapter will go into the sheetmetal. If you use this adapter to mount underneath it is 3/4 of inch thick, so your speakers will hang lower and may get in the way of things. If you dont care I don't see why you couldnt.

if you put it on top, would it make the speaker hang LESS in the trunk?
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:21 AM   #62
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Ya....What the hell, seems like alot of work. Good write up though. Like the guy above, now I know why I dont want to mess with it. I hate dealing with all that interior pins and tabs. Seems like they didnt want us to mess around back there. Maybe I will wait for Best Buy to have one of their "Free Installation" with purchase deals. I will buy the speakers and laugh as I leave, lol.
I work there, and I hate to diss my own company... My manager asked me why I didn't have the Install Bay at Best Buy do it... I'm thinking to myself, cause if they break something they won't tell you they'll just cover it up. So yes. Sick write up, if you have a video even better. I'll be doing this next week ;] Probably going to mount speakers on the outside. Incase I blow them and want an easy replace :]
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Old 11-09-2013, 12:49 PM   #63
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Thanks for this!! I'm not looking forward to doing this, but I have to replace a blown rear speaker. It's driving me nuts!!
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Old 11-25-2013, 07:07 PM   #64
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:34 PM   #65
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bump for a good ass write up. hopefully my friend and i will be able to do this tomorrow
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:31 PM   #66
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Crutchfield has a DIY

http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/201...actoryspeakers
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:04 PM   #67
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First, let me thank you for this detailed writeup and excellent DIY.

Then, allow me to curse the ground you walk on for making this look like less of a colossal pain that it is! LOL

I finished this today and installed my JL c2-690 speakers in the rear.

It took about 4 hours. I hit a little snag in that my subthump box needed to go a bit further in because it was blocking my ability to get the drivers side screws in on the 6x9. Had to do a little work-around there.

The rear deck going back in place gave me a bit of trouble.... Finally got that back together.

Sound system is where I want it now. I doubt I'll do more for a while if at all. Sounds awesome.

Thanks again for the writeup.
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:05 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by gill7784 View Post
Pull the seat forward and look to the left and right of the base on the backside. You will see the pivot point and where the small arms rest in the carriers. As you hold the seat forward at a 45 degree angle, reach down there and push the mouth of one side open. Rotate the arm out of the carrier. While continuing to hold the seat, move over to the other side and repeat.

The trick is that the arms are notched to only come out of the carrier if the seat is rotated 45 degrees to the front.

Good luck!
Even at 45 degrees I can't get it out....
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:03 PM   #69
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Even at 45 degrees I can't get it out....
ok...there is a piece of platic guard to make the seat slide easier that kept moving blocking the seat from coming out on the one side...I had to bend and rip it out...kinda messed that little piece of plastic up a little...hopefully doesnt affect that seat coming forward too much
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Old 03-05-2014, 11:07 AM   #70
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Damn... Still have to remove the entire backseat for the 2014 version? This was a pain in the but in my 2010 camaro.
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:04 AM   #71
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Would it make sense to remove the 2 front seat to give you more room to work? I know it is extra work but might make moving around back there easier.
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:47 PM   #72
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Thank you, this write up helped me a lot.

Does anyone have tips for the small screw by back window? It was the worst trying to get it out, i cant imagine putting it back in

Last edited by flyer08; 04-28-2014 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:11 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by flyer08 View Post
Thank you, this write up helped me a lot.

Does anyone have tips for the small screw by back window? It was the worst trying to get it out, i cant imagine putting it back in
I used a tiny ratchet and small socket. Using both hands... Holding the socket on that bolt. It's a pain at that angle.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:31 PM   #74
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I think to put it back in ill need another set of small hands. Thanks for ideas
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