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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 02-14-2011, 10:09 PM   #1
blazzin1


 
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Rear Wheel Hub Removal....Help!

Okay, I'm attempting to remove the rear wheel hubs so that I can replace the wheel studs with longer ones. I even have the big 3 volume GM maintenance books, which I'm starting to think really suck!! Page 16-21 says:

1) remove and support the vehicle.....(done)
2) remove the tire and wheel assembly.....(done)
3) remove the rear brake rotor.....(done)
4) remove the rear wheel speed sensor.....(done)
5) separate the wheel drive shaft from the wheel bearing/hub assembly.....(NOT done)

Here's where I get confused. The picture only shows removing the 3 bolts on the back side of the knuckle to remove the hub. No picture or even mention of the big central axle nut in the center of the hub. Am I missing something here, that does have to come off, doesn't it? If I go look up the wheel drive shaft removal, that nut has be to broken loose before the rotors and calipers are removed. Why the hell would the book tell me to remove the rotors and then not even mention removing or installing the main axle nut. I don't see any way of removing the hub without removing that nut!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated. These books suck!!! (or maybe I'm just dumb!!).

Thanks.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:57 AM   #2
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Yes, that big nut in the middle has to come off. It holds the axle into the hub. Take that off and you are clear sailing. And sad to say, to get that nut off without damaging the wheel studs, you will have to put the brakes back together so you can get the nut off. That would be the easiest unless you have an impact gun handy.

Just make sure you have a torque wrench for putting it back together.
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:58 AM   #3
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New manuals always have tons of mistakes. They're probably generating change pages daily. The should be sending some of these to you if you ordered them from Helm.

Six months after I got my 1998 F-Body set from Helm, they contacted me and sent me an updated set for free, due to the number of errors in the original printing.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:23 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon22 View Post
Yes, that big nut in the middle has to come off. It holds the axle into the hub. Take that off and you are clear sailing. And sad to say, to get that nut off without damaging the wheel studs, you will have to put the brakes back together so you can get the nut off. That would be the easiest unless you have an impact gun handy.

Just make sure you have a torque wrench for putting it back together.
Thanks for the advice, I figured the book was messed up. I do have a nice Craftsman impact gun, I just don't know if it will break loose the 200 ft-lb. torque on that nut. So if I try the impact gun, should I leave the car in gear to stop the axles from turning, or would that possibly hurt the differential gears? Guess I need to go buy a big @$$ 32mm socket too! Hey, while I got ya, the book said DO NOT re-use the caliper bolts or the big axle nut. Does that make sense? I can sorta understand the nut because of the self-locking feature, but the caliper bolts too?!?!? I bet those will be expensive from the dealership!
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:37 AM   #5
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I reused my caliper bolts as did everyone else I know that has removed them. Why replace them?
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:48 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by jrhaus76 View Post
I reused my caliper bolts as did everyone else I know that has removed them. Why replace them?
Yeah, that's what I'm saying, I don't see the purpose of replacing the bolts. Maybe use a little Loc-Tite upon re-installation and all should be good, right?!?!? What about the axle nut, has anyone replaced that yet, or are those being re-used also?
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazzin1 View Post
Thanks for the advice, I figured the book was messed up. I do have a nice Craftsman impact gun, I just don't know if it will break loose the 200 ft-lb. torque on that nut. So if I try the impact gun, should I leave the car in gear to stop the axles from turning, or would that possibly hurt the differential gears? Guess I need to go buy a big @$$ 32mm socket too! Hey, while I got ya, the book said DO NOT re-use the caliper bolts or the big axle nut. Does that make sense? I can sorta understand the nut because of the self-locking feature, but the caliper bolts too?!?!? I bet those will be expensive from the dealership!
As a licensed mechanic, I would not reuse the Axle nut. Definitely get a new one. As for the Caliper bolts, I have reused them over the years unless the threads were no good, bent, etc.

The only reason I can see that GM wants the Caliper bolts replaced...or perhaps it's Brembo that is dictating that...is perhaps due to stretch when they are tightened. They may feel that because the bolts/threads stretch so much upon installation, they could break or fail if you reuse them.

Honestly, my advice is, if they are saying to replace them, there is a reason for it. Surely they aren't that expensive and better safe than sorry.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:32 PM   #8
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11515781-SS Rear caliper bolt list for a whopping $1.95 each
13217120-Axle nut list for $8.42 each

Just be sure to order a week ahead of the swap because if your dealer doesn't stock them it make take some time to get them in.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:39 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Robert91RS View Post
11515781-SS Rear caliper bolt list for a whopping $1.95 each
13217120-Axle nut list for $8.42 each

Just be sure to order a week ahead of the swap because if your dealer doesn't stock them it make take some time to get them in.
There it is...and money well spent IMHO.
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:23 PM   #10
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I'd put the brakes back on and use the procedure on the wheel drive shaft page to hold the rotor with a drift punch through the cooling fins. Just be carefull not to damage a crossover tube. The drift will need to be resting against the body of the caliper, caliper finish protected by a shop cloth.
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