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Old 02-23-2011, 01:43 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Gene Culley View Post
The dash looks 100% as bright as the door panels where it is the brightest and thickest, yes.

So now the bigger question, did the ABL tools really help? was it "that" much easier? lol
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:47 PM   #44
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Yeah, I thought about that. I bet some acetone free nail polish remover would work and not damage the panel... that or brake fluid, lol...
You may be correct. In very small amounts, it may work. Brake fluid
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:48 PM   #45
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someone blew through a few panels trying to do the sand method...maybe he has some of the bad ones to test some removal products...
I think the easiest way to sand is to tape them off with painters tape and then you can't go any further down than the line.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:49 PM   #46
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A Plug 'n' Play kit under $200 would work

How much for replacement dash insert pieces?
It depends on what color for the dash insert pieces. You're looking at $50 to $175.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:50 PM   #47
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So now the bigger question, did the ABL tools really help? was it "that" much easier? lol
I guess you're referring to the trim removal tools? Heck yeah, I wouldn't even bother doing it without them. I use those trim removal tools for everything! Once you start using them, you will find a reason to use them more and more in the future!
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:35 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Toasty View Post
hey i am prepping do to this, and wondered, rather than sanding for the other way, rather use acetone to remove some of the paint instead?
I tried Goof Off, and it didn't work that well. I used a 3m spot sanding pen to sand just the bevel of the trim. http://www.amazon.com/Prep-Pen-PrepP...8558024&sr=8-2

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Originally Posted by Gene Culley View Post
I guess you're referring to the trim removal tools? Heck yeah, I wouldn't even bother doing it without them. I use those trim removal tools for everything! Once you start using them, you will find a reason to use them more and more in the future!
I kind of wish I had them, but I did find you can pinch the first clip from behind and once you get one clip removed you can easily just pull them out from down the line.

You just get some sore fingers doing that.
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:48 AM   #49
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Regarding the sanding method: Can anyone post a photo of the exact location that sanding is required? Additionally, how much sanding should be done on that area.

A friend and I attempted this project this weekend and everything went smooth, however we did not care for the 2-3 mm gap method. We finally gave up after two days of trying to adjust the tubing and everything to make it right but just couldn't. We still have plans to finish but want to find out the above questions before proceding further.
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Old 02-24-2011, 06:41 PM   #50
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I used paint remover (tuff-strip) purchased at Lowes. Had it around for years after doing some furniture re-finishing. For the doors it worked great, first taped it off, applied with a small modeling brush, wairted less than a minute removed with a Q- tip. After about four applications it was perfect. If you leave it on for too long it would eat the plastic. For the dash I have only done the driver's side so far. I took the paint with no problems but the look is better when it's sanded IMO, used 600 grit.
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:17 PM   #51
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I kind of wish I had them, but I did find you can pinch the first clip from behind and once you get one clip removed you can easily just pull them out from down the line.

You just get some sore fingers doing that.
I agree. I figured the tools were cheap and it is easier to remove trim. I have a Hummer H3 that I removed the center console bezel and all and that could not have been removed by hand!
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Old 02-25-2011, 08:23 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by cdn2usa View Post
I used paint remover (tuff-strip) purchased at Lowes. Had it around for years after doing some furniture re-finishing. For the doors it worked great, first taped it off, applied with a small modeling brush, wairted less than a minute removed with a Q- tip. After about four applications it was perfect. If you leave it on for too long it would eat the plastic. For the dash I have only done the driver's side so far. I took the paint with no problems but the look is better when it's sanded IMO, used 600 grit.
Where did your line start? Did it begin at the edge of the bevel? Once you got it sanded down, did the light shine through nicely? Thanks for your response.
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:43 AM   #53
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Where did your line start? Did it begin at the edge of the bevel? Once you got it sanded down, did the light shine through nicely? Thanks for your response.
If your talkiing about the dash, it's still to clear for me, but your looking right at it, it's not like the door panels. I am going to try sanding with a lower grit or maybe tape to fog it up.
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:24 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrtWht_2010_2SS_RS View Post
Where did your line start? Did it begin at the edge of the bevel? Once you got it sanded down, did the light shine through nicely? Thanks for your response.
Best way to describe the sanding is to do just at the bevel, then look at it from the front at a light and see if you can see it. You also run your fingers back there and look from the front that is a good way to tell if your sanding is good.

You don't need to sand completely up from the bevel, in fact I think I have a couple MM of original paint at the very top. I usually sand about enough for the thickness of about half a pencil eraser.
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:21 PM   #55
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How much vinyl tubing do i need?
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:40 PM   #56
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How much vinyl tubing do i need?
I would say 6 inches will be good enough.
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