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Old 07-27-2011, 11:35 AM   #26
chopper
 
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This might be a dumb question but how would u seal the subthump adapters and what would u do it with and where? And why would they need to be sealed? Im new to car audio installation..much thanks
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopper View Post
This might be a dumb question but how would u seal the subthump adapters and what would u do it with and where? And why would they need to be sealed? Im new to car audio installation..much thanks
Check out one of my posts, I did a write up on how to do this.

You can use primer and paint, you can use a mixture of resin and a thinner of sorts (I forget but its readily available) sand then paint. You can plastidip.

You would do the whole adapter. Reason you do this is MDF is basically compressed sawdust (layman's terms) when it gets wet or draws moisture it gets brittle, swells and turns into a pile of crap. You seal it and it is a very good inexpensive solid product.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:17 PM   #28
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just what I was looking for.. thanks
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:40 PM   #29
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The front speakers are cake compared to the rear. I did the fronts about 3 weeks ago but just got around the the rear today. -__- <--- the face you will have throughout the entire process. The interior "engineer" who designer who came up with the bright idea to put every panel from the front seatbelt to the rear deck on top of the speakers wasn't the star pupil in school.
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Old 03-03-2012, 12:21 PM   #30
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How long did it take you for the first door? I just did my right door this morning in about 4 hours. That included Dynamat inside the door, then a 3/8" foam pad inside the door including double thickness behind the speaker. Then I sealed the door behind where the trim panel goes with Dynamat and 1/8" Dynapad in place of the factory mat that was on the door. Then installed the driver and tweeter as well as the crossover.

I fastened the crossover to the door with screws near the bottom of the door on the side facing the inside of the car. At the price of Focal K2 Power 165KRX2 speakers, I didn't want to take a chance of it getting wet inside the door. There was water inside the door when I pulled the trim off, there was a stong downpour on my way home from work this morning.

Now it's time for bed and a couple hours of sleep before doing another 12 hour shift. Hope I have enough energy to do the other door tomorrow morning.
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Old 04-27-2012, 12:33 AM   #31
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Wait, wtf. I have an install scheduled for Monday. Double din, scosche kit, 6.5 coax for the door and 6x9 coax for the rear.... So i need a new housing for the 6.5s? Or is that something an audio shop can figure out. Id hate to bring all my crap in only to find out they cant put those speakers in. What about the rears? do they just sit in the rear deck or do those need a new housing as well?
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:14 AM   #32
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question, the stock bracket has 1 screw, as you said, the subthump bracket has three holes from the picture, and when installed i see more than 1 screw holding the subthump bracket in. are there holes in the door frame already to use the other screws?
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:15 AM   #33
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I'm having a problem getting the cover underneath the door handle to come off. Is there a trick to getting it out?

It's the piece in the second picture on the first post.
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:29 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Martel View Post
These are the model speakers and head unit I used.

Kicker 07DS6502 DS-Series 6.5-Inch Component System with 20mm Tweeter

Kicker 07DS6930 DS-Series 6-Inch x 9-Inch 152mm X 229mm 3-Way Speaker

Pioneer AVH-P3300BT

The crossovers come with the speakers. When you're using component speakers, a crossover is needed to filter the lower end signal out as the tweeters are just for higher audio spectrum signals. Subs are for very low spectrum signals and generally there's a separate crossover to pass only the low end signal to the sub. High-pass filter for tweets. Low-pass filter for subs. Everything else can go to your front and rear speakers.

If you're going to replace anything, replace the head unit. It will make the stock speakers sound halfway decent. The stock speakers aren't rated very highly as far as power and that's why I swapped them out for the Kickers. I like to crank my music up, roll the windows down, and jam out as I'm cruising.

Question, Could you plastic dip the adapters to kill the moisture problem?
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:48 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
I'm having a problem getting the cover underneath the door handle to come off. Is there a trick to getting it out?

It's the piece in the second picture on the first post.
I use a 90° scribe. http://www.amazon.com/SE-pc-Scribe-P...cribe+pick+set

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Old 09-23-2012, 05:11 PM   #36
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Thanks.....I finally got it. Had to use a scribe like you showed.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:09 AM   #37
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I figured I would add to this thread to give a couple more shots and maybe it will help someone else down the road.

I bought a set of Kicker speakers from Crutchfield. I could've bought them about $40 cheaper somewhere else but they included the speaker adapters, a wiring plug for the OEM harness, decent install instructions with pictures, and phone support if I needed. If I would've had to buy Subthumps adapters it would've cost me the same going with the cheaper speaker vendor. Then add on the fact that the adapters are plasitic and don't need to be sealed this is definately the way to go.

In the pics you can see the stock speaker vs a speaker in new adapter, plus just the adapter. I cut the wiring plug that Crutchfield included, wired, sodered, and heat shrinked it to the crossover. I also cut the grommet in the door in order to run the wires for the tweaters. I placed the crossover up as high as I could but still with the ablility to reach in and change the settings if needed.

Once I figured out how to get the cover under the door handle off the rest was super easy.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:00 AM   #38
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I would not have put my crossover on the outside of the moisture barrier. Now jt will be exposed to the elements.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:20 AM   #39
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Sorry to necro this thread, but the information is still useful enough to warrant being seen again, and I have a question about it.

Does anyone have clear pictures on placement for a crossover inside the moister barrier so as to avoid the issues people were talking about in this useful thread?
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:45 PM   #40
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u gotta take the whole door panel off to access the tweeters? i got 2 bose tweeters iwanna replace the factory ones
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Old 05-18-2013, 01:55 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by fredbo View Post
u gotta take the whole door panel off to access the tweeters? i got 2 bose tweeters iwanna replace the factory ones
The tweeter pods pop right off. No need to remove the door panel.
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:24 PM   #42
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Olde but Goode .... Saved me a serious headache
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:26 PM   #43
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Has anyone run the crossover wires into the interior door pocket, next to the speaker. Looks like a better place, safe, dry and accessible. I am going to give it a go tomorrow.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:43 PM   #44
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So what do you guys think of the Kicker DS mid & tweeter since the install? How do they sound?
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:39 PM   #45
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Here is a pic of where I mounted my crossover.
On the bottom right.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:33 PM   #46
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any pics of what this looks like with the panels on? and does crutchfield sell the adpaters for the speakers by them selfs?
Id like to make my own, but id need subtumps measurement or crutchfield to base off of
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:45 AM   #47
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If getting the metra adapters, they don't fit the JL c2 650 speakers. Just a heads up.

Gotta use the subthump ones.
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Old 09-01-2013, 06:20 PM   #48
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Just used this to install my speakers. Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:58 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-10 View Post
Here is a pic of where I mounted my crossover.
On the bottom right.
Attachment 516839
Chris, did you run the wires from the crossover through the moisture barrier or just tuck them underneath it nicely? I can't tell for sure from this photo. Also, is there any concern with water getting to the crossover in that location or is it dry? Assuming dry but just wanted to double check. I am working on my install now. One more thing, did you leave the crossover setting at reference or change to one of the other two available settings? Thanks.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:09 PM   #50
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