Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
ModBargains
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Suspension / Brakes / Chassis

Suspension / Brakes / Chassis All suspension, brakes and chassis discussions.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 06-10-2011, 09:47 AM   #101
PQ
1st State Chevy supporter
 
PQ's Avatar
 
Drives: Hybrid SS Camaro
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 36,880
Send a message via Yahoo to PQ
Holy crap.

What inserts did you buy?

The Pedders went in with no problem at all. I greaded them, but the still were REALLY easy to put in. Are you sure you had them turned so the tabs were meeting the openings?

As far as the exhaust, this is why I had to just remove mine.

Also, and I know you're not stupid, but I have to ask, are you possitive you were using the correct insert?
__________________
PQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 09:52 AM   #102
Synner


 
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: May 2011
Location: overseas
Posts: 3,419
Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
Not know anything about how the Poly works I would also be neverous about just using any type of lube. Would something like WD-40 be okay?

That's why I thought I would ask what others had done.
Normally I use wheel bearing grease on any type of suspension joint. It lasts a very long time and resists water. Although if some came with the inserts use that. WD40 I wouldn't use on rubber. The grease $3-8 depending on if you get generic or the nicest synthetic stuff and the container will last you a long time.
Synner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 10:20 AM   #103
caverman


 
caverman's Avatar
 
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
Quote:
Originally Posted by PQ View Post
Holy crap.

What inserts did you buy?

The Pedders went in with no problem at all. I greaded them, but the still were REALLY easy to put in. Are you sure you had them turned so the tabs were meeting the openings?

As far as the exhaust, this is why I had to just remove mine.

Also, and I know you're not stupid, but I have to ask, are you possitive you were using the correct insert?
It was the bushing #4276 in this pic.

I did triple check to make sure I was using the correct one but you can see there not as much poly there to push down on especially when there is only about 2" of room to work with. That's about how far down I could get the cradle befor it was hitting the exhaust.

I double checked to make sure that the insert indentions were aligned with the tabs on the metal part of the bushing.

Like a dumb ass I didn't think to take a picture of it. It was late, I was frustrated, and I was second guessing myself that it was worth doing. At that point I just wanted to get it all back together.

When you say you greased yours, did you put grease on the sides to make them go in easier or just the top where they would touch the frame? Also, what grease did you use....I'm assuming the one that came in the kit? That stuff seemed more like sticky than slippery.

BTW: that insert is the only one that looks different than the Pedders one. Definatlly like the one Peddars has for that front top bushing. Pedders has extra poly around the whole top of the bushing where it would make contact with the frame.
Attached Images
 
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal
caverman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 10:34 AM   #104
Jaysin
I Void Warranties
 
Jaysin's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 IBM Camaro 2SS/RS
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 323
Put a little rubbing alcohol on it and push it in.
__________________


Kooks Headers, CAI Inc. Intake, Catch Can, Pedders Supercar Coilovers, Sway Bars, All Pedders Bushings, Spohn Trailing Arms and Toe Links...
Jaysin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 10:39 AM   #105
PQ
1st State Chevy supporter
 
PQ's Avatar
 
Drives: Hybrid SS Camaro
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 36,880
Send a message via Yahoo to PQ
Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
It was the bushing #4276 in this pic.

I did triple check to make sure I was using the correct one but you can see there not as much poly there to push down on especially when there is only about 2" of room to work with. That's about how far down I could get the cradle befor it was hitting the exhaust.

I double checked to make sure that the insert indentions were aligned with the tabs on the metal part of the bushing.

Like a dumb ass I didn't think to take a picture of it. It was late, I was frustrated, and I was second guessing myself that it was worth doing. At that point I just wanted to get it all back together.

When you say you greased yours, did you put grease on the sides to make them go in easier or just the top where they would touch the frame? Also, what grease did you use....I'm assuming the one that came in the kit? That stuff seemed more like sticky than slippery.

BTW: that insert is the only one that looks different than the Pedders one. Definatlly like the one Peddars has for that front top bushing. Pedders has extra poly around the whole top of the bushing where it would make contact with the frame.
When doing stuff for the first time it can be frustrating. You'll have a MUCH easier time when you finish.

I greased mine over the entire surface. Top, bottom, sides, tabs, everything. Apperently I wasn't really supposed to but I thought I was at the time. If nothing else, spray water in it?

Sticky, slippery, I don't think it would matter. But I dont' know. Mine looked like simple gear grease. Pete said what kind it is earlier.

Oh, and for the front cradle mount ring I tried for an hour to get the first one off and then I had an idea WHILE on the phone with GTAHVIT. I pried from the INSIDE and had them BOTH off in about 30 seconds. GTAHVIT can verify. The rears were too deep to do that with but came off easier that the fronts.

Pry form here with a big screw driver and have the screw driver juuuust catch the inside lip of the retainer ring. Pry down and it pops right off.

Name:  Image1[1].jpg
Views: 354
Size:  15.4 KB
__________________
PQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 05:14 PM   #106
JusticePete
Rebel Leader
 
JusticePete's Avatar
 
Drives: Camaro Justice
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 15,380
The metal washers have a lip that inserts into the OE ferule. When the bolts are made tight the lip can spread a bit. If the lip has a good amount of powder coating on it it can act as glue. All that said, they should come off.

As for the inserts setting into the bush, that should be the easy part. Can you email me pictures of your upper inserts? PGB@PeddersUSA.com Also what month was your 5th Gen built?

Is your exhaust OE or aftermarket?
__________________
JusticePete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 05:33 PM   #107
caverman


 
caverman's Avatar
 
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The metal washers have a lip that inserts into the OE ferule. When the bolts are made tight the lip can spread a bit. If the lip has a good amount of powder coating on it it can act as glue. All that said, they should come off.

As for the inserts setting into the bush, that should be the easy part. Can you email me pictures of your upper inserts? PGB@PeddersUSA.com Also what month was your 5th Gen built?

Is your exhaust OE or aftermarket?
Email sent.....
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal
caverman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 08:05 PM   #108
slowstart
 
Drives: 2010 camaro LS
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new jersey
Posts: 3
i installed these last year and found that they were too"big", so i trimmed the ends off of the fingers for a flush fit and also on part 4276 trimmed the excess so that the metal center of the bushing sits on the chassis. Also regarding the rear uppers i did not want to drop the subframe any lower so i split the inserts on one side so that they would snap around the dowel pin. I dont think its affects the outcome at all since its purpose is to fill the voids and it is restricted by the dimensions of the oem bushing. Since nome of these posts existed i found this was a difficult job with the BS of the washers and the test fitting of the inserts. That said these are a must in my book, the difference being night and day. I have the six cylinder and the rigidity passes minor vibration thru the car when the engine in sixth gear(auto) labors around 1100 to 1400 rpm.
slowstart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 10:06 PM   #109
caverman


 
caverman's Avatar
 
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
Quote:
Originally Posted by slowstart View Post
i installed these last year and found that they were too"big", so i trimmed the ends off of the fingers for a flush fit and also on part 4276 trimmed the excess so that the metal center of the bushing sits on the chassis. Also regarding the rear uppers i did not want to drop the subframe any lower so i split the inserts on one side so that they would snap around the dowel pin. I dont think its affects the outcome at all since its purpose is to fill the voids and it is restricted by the dimensions of the oem bushing. Since nome of these posts existed i found this was a difficult job with the BS of the washers and the test fitting of the inserts. That said these are a must in my book, the difference being night and day. I have the six cylinder and the rigidity passes minor vibration thru the car when the engine in sixth gear(auto) labors around 1100 to 1400 rpm.
So...you're saying you couldn't get the 4276 to fit all the way down into the bushing either?

Hmmm....I kind of like the idea of splitting he top of the rear inserts in half. I could definatley see how that would help. I wouldn't have to remove my exhaust or my Hotchkis brace. I could just take the front bolts out of the bace where it attaches to the body but leave it attached to the craddle. There is enough room to insert the top rear insert if I had it in two pieces.

I'm with you...I don't see where splitting the insert in half would be an issue. As you said the whole idea is just to fill the voids. Shouldn't matter if that's with one piece or two pieces.

Dang....I just might have to give this a try tomorrow. A little scarry bit it just might work. I've been pretty set on just throwing in the towel and paying someone to install them. Hate doing that though....I'm use to doing stuff myself and have access to a lift and a decent set of tools.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal
caverman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 10:49 AM   #110
Synner


 
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: May 2011
Location: overseas
Posts: 3,419
Well I just ordered the full cradle and diff bushings from LSR along with their billet tunnel brace for a heck of a deal. And I bought a reciprocating saw which was probably the only saw I didn't already own. It'll be a week or two before I get around to doing it but I'll see if I can post pics of my frustration, I mean progress.
Synner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 03:19 PM   #111
PQ
1st State Chevy supporter
 
PQ's Avatar
 
Drives: Hybrid SS Camaro
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 36,880
Send a message via Yahoo to PQ
Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
So...you're saying you couldn't get the 4276 to fit all the way down into the bushing either?

Hmmm....I kind of like the idea of splitting he top of the rear inserts in half. I could definatley see how that would help. I wouldn't have to remove my exhaust or my Hotchkis brace. I could just take the front bolts out of the bace where it attaches to the body but leave it attached to the craddle. There is enough room to insert the top rear insert if I had it in two pieces.

I'm with you...I don't see where splitting the insert in half would be an issue. As you said the whole idea is just to fill the voids. Shouldn't matter if that's with one piece or two pieces.

Dang....I just might have to give this a try tomorrow. A little scarry bit it just might work. I've been pretty set on just throwing in the towel and paying someone to install them. Hate doing that though....I'm use to doing stuff myself and have access to a lift and a decent set of tools.
I wouldn't cut them. Of COURSE two peices are weaker than one. It creates a possible movement that otherwise would not be there. And after all, we are talking about lessing movement that is minimal already. Just my thoughts. Can't you remove the wholw axleback exhaust? How bout some pics? Can you post some up for us to see?

I'm obviously just guessing at this. Pete or BMR or a vendore could chime in for an expert opinion.
__________________

Last edited by PQ; 06-11-2011 at 03:45 PM.
PQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 04:25 PM   #112
Synner


 
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: May 2011
Location: overseas
Posts: 3,419
Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
So you got the Energy Suspension full bushings?

Synner.....what brand of bushing inserts did you use?
Yup, energy suspension full bushings. I couldn't pass up the deal. Used some of the savings to help fund the tunnel brace and I also ordered a Metco driveshaft safety loop. I like the no drilling aspect of it. I figure most everything will be off for the bushing install anyways so I might as well tackle it all while I'm down there.
Synner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 04:27 PM   #113
Rob@WretchedMS

 
Rob@WretchedMS's Avatar
 
Drives: His Wife Crazy Phone:860-880-0486
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson
Posts: 1,651
make sure you check the fitment before you install them.
__________________

Rob@WretchedMS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 04:40 PM   #114
caverman


 
caverman's Avatar
 
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
So…I finally did it. I thought about paying someone to do the install but I really like doing all my own stuff. I the money I saved by doing it myself I was able to buy my sway bars. It was kind of a PITA to do it but it’s done. Not perfect like I would like it but it should be good.

First off let me say that I got the Energy Suspension bushing inserts due to their cost. I almost bought BMR’s inserts but the Energy inserts have the same look, instructions, and part # as the BMR bushings so I figured that were made by the same Mfg. I got them for $110 shipped which is pretty cheap. Now that it’s all said and done I’m not sure if they are the same or not. Also not sure that I would recommend the Energy inserts either. Their full bushings might be different but didn't have a good experience with their inserts.

For me I was able to get the metal washers off using two claw hammers like someone suggested. I had no success with pry bar, prying from underneath, or the chisel. The first attempt we were able to get it off with heat from a torch but I’m not real crazy about doing it that way. With the two hammers I was able to get about four good swings on it and it popped right off in about 10 seconds. This is the way I would recommend doing it but I think everyone should know the options they can use to get them off and use whatever works for you.

As far as problems I ran into it was really with the front top bushing insert. You can see in the first couple pics that on the driver’s side I was finally able to get it in. This time I used a little wheel bearing grease which I do think helped. Still it was super hard to get it pressed in. I ended up using a small piece of wood to try to evenly compress the bushing down. Still I couldn’t get it completely flush until it was pulled all the way up at the very end of doing the install.

On the passenger side I had even worse luck with that insert. It started binding up and then when I tried to pull it out to start over it ripped at the weaker section. It just wouldn’t come back out and even if I could get it out there was no guarantee I could get back any better. Finally I pushed it in as much as possible and then took a saws-all and trimmed the top. In the last pic you can see the amount that I end up taking off.

Ultimately I don’t think it is really going to be a problem since the inserts are just designed to fill in the voids. Yes…it would’ve been better to get the whole insert in but it just wasn’t going to happen. One day I’ll eventually upgrade my cam and when I start putting down more power I’ll probably switch out to full bushings but in the mean time this should work.

I don’t know if my issues were because I used the Energy Suspension brand vs BMR or if it was an issue with the factory bushing. I would be curious to hear if others had the same issue with BMR or if they didn’t have the same issue with Energy’s inserts. I don’t think it was an installation issue but I guess that’s possible. I didn’t lower the cradle all the way as BMR and Energy’s directions say to do. I thought that was over kill but maybe if it was lowered all the way down you can insert them straight down.

Pedder’s front top insert looks totally different. If you have the extra money it’s probably worth it for the Pedder’s inserts IMO. Sounds like most people here are using Pedder’s and aren’t having the same issue.
Attached Images
         
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal
caverman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 04:41 PM   #115
caverman


 
caverman's Avatar
 
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
I'm not necessarily recommending doing it this way...but it is an option. I was okay with doing in but most people probably won't want to cut thier inserts. I figured I didn't spend much on them and worst case they can be replaced. Although next time it will probably be a full bushing for me.

With the top rear inserts I went with slowstart's suggestion and cut the top in half. Like him I didn’t want to take off my whole cat-back (mine is tack welded together so it’s all one piece except for the mufflers) and I would also have to take my Hotchkis chassis brace off as opposed to just loosing the front of the brace from the body of the car. I also had a big scare that if I lowered it too much the cradle would get out of whack and be extremely hard to put back and probalby require another alignment.

I also agree with slowstart in the fact that the inserts are designed to fill the voids and whether it’s two pieces or one piece it’s going to still fill the void. The bolts are also torqued to 130 ft/lbs so I really don’t think they are going to move.

Doing it this was easy and the all of the inserts went in easily except for the front top inserts. I still used a little wheel bearing grease on them and then I also added some of the sticky lube that came with my sway bars to put on top of the bushing insert where it touches the frame.

I don’t know if it’s all in my head but I could immediately feel the car firmer and I actually feel like it took out a little of the slight bounciness I had in the ride. So far I haven’t heard any more cabin noise at all. To me the inserts (or probably a full bushing) is a very good addition. Definitely worth it in my book and even though it was a hassle to install (about 2.5 hrs total) it’s much better in the long run.

I’ll have to give a report after I drive it around some and take it to the drag strip and the AutoX event I have next week.
Attached Images
            
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal

Last edited by caverman; 06-11-2011 at 06:07 PM.
caverman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 05:02 PM   #116
Synner


 
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: May 2011
Location: overseas
Posts: 3,419
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob@WretchedMS View Post
make sure you check the fitment before you install them.
I always do that with anything I install. Are you talking about anything specific?
Synner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 06:00 PM   #117
Synner


 
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: May 2011
Location: overseas
Posts: 3,419
I don't have any inserts. You got me confused with someone else.
Synner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 06:06 PM   #118
caverman


 
caverman's Avatar
 
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
I don't have any inserts. You got me confused with someone else.
My bad....that was Slowstart
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal
caverman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 06:12 PM   #119
Rob@WretchedMS

 
Rob@WretchedMS's Avatar
 
Drives: His Wife Crazy Phone:860-880-0486
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson
Posts: 1,651
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
I always do that with anything I install. Are you talking about anything specific?
diameter, length, ect,
the ones i've seen do not fit right.
it needs to fit snuggly, not slop.
needs to be snug not only side to side, but up and down too, and the ferrules should be the correct length so that the bushing/ferrule doesn't allow the sub frame to move at all.
__________________

Rob@WretchedMS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 07:45 PM   #120
slowstart
 
Drives: 2010 camaro LS
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new jersey
Posts: 3
this in response to caverman and rob, i used energy suspension inserts and you are correct they are not the exact shape of what they should be. i am not an expert on anything but over the years have done air conditioning furnaces electrical plumbing make my own circuit boards etc., auto that can be done in the drveway ( and often said : holy shit what did i get myself into) but my point is that no matter what you are doing it should all hand fit together perfectly, then and only then can it be secured. i spent a lot of time sanding the bushing inserts that go against the big bottom bell washers so that exactly like rob said, a snug uniform fit, this way when everything is torqued down, the torque is used to secure the subframe and not to force mismatched parts together and create stress. because of the inserts pupose to fill the voids and stiffen the rubber splitting bushing has no negative effect since there should be very little movement. often the easiest way is sometimes the best.
slowstart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 08:55 PM   #121
axis
Search Ninja
 
axis's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central Ark
Posts: 7,193
If you're only going to fill the gaps, why not use something like liquid nails or something that squirts in and dries hard. We use to do that to DSM motor mounts back in the day. I forget exactly what we used though. Seems like it would be way easier and MUCH cheaper.
__________________
2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
Bo (knows) White ported TB
Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

I once parallel parked a train.
axis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2011, 09:47 PM   #122
caverman


 
caverman's Avatar
 
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
Ok....talked with slowstart and he did the Energy inserts as well. It's starting to sound like the Energy inserts might be the issue. Their full bushings might be okay but not sure I would recommend their inserts now even though they a pretty cheap.

I will say that even though I had to trim them they are still better than not having any insert at all. My car definatley feels better without a doubt.

That being said, knowing what I know now I probably would recommend any one looking at Energy's inserts to spend the extra money on a different brand if they can. Just my opinion based on my experience.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal
caverman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2011, 02:36 AM   #123
axis
Search Ninja
 
axis's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central Ark
Posts: 7,193
Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
That being said, knowing what I know now I probably would recommend any one looking at Energy's inserts to spend the extra money on a different brand if they can. Just my opinion based on my experience.
Doesn't ES make BMR's bushings as well? They seem to have the same part numbers. Do they have the same problem?
__________________
2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
Bo (knows) White ported TB
Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

I once parallel parked a train.
axis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2011, 09:13 AM   #124
caverman


 
caverman's Avatar
 
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
Quote:
Originally Posted by axis View Post
Doesn't ES make BMR's bushings as well? They seem to have the same part numbers. Do they have the same problem?
Well.....that's what I thought. They look the same, have the same part #, and the same instructions. They are almost 1/2 the price and why I decided to buy them.

I'm curious to hear if the BMR ones have the same issue as well. I haven't heard yet and it seems like most of the people on this thread are using Pedders....which doesn't seem to have the issue.

It's really only that front top bushing. They other bushings went in with ease.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal
caverman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2011, 11:57 AM   #125
Rob@WretchedMS

 
Rob@WretchedMS's Avatar
 
Drives: His Wife Crazy Phone:860-880-0486
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson
Posts: 1,651
i believe the BMR and ES bushings are exactly the same design.
__________________

Rob@WretchedMS is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Installing BMR Pro Cradle Bushing LS3*LLY Suspension / Brakes / Chassis 14 03-10-2011 08:53 PM
Subframe Bush Upgrades. From Simple DIYer to Full Race Capable Info@PeddersUSA.com Suspension / Brakes / Chassis 16 05-03-2010 09:29 PM
New to Suspension (look over list please) Brokenlizrd Suspension / Brakes / Chassis 19 04-23-2010 11:31 PM
Detroit Speed vs. Pedders usmcjlp Wheels and Tires Talk Sponsored by The Tire Rack 35 07-22-2009 12:14 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.