SUX2BU's IOM/flat black vert build "Ginger" [COTW 5/16/11]

[SUX2BU]

Originally Posted by Padre

What cam/springs are you going with? (You mentioned it in my thread. )

Padre

Texas Speed 231/236 cam
Texas Speed PRC .650" valve springs

I was just going to do a blower cam later since I plan to do a Whipple at the end of the year or the beginning of next but I got a SMOKING hot deal on the cam from my buddy. I figure I can use it for a few months and then make my money back and then some selling it after I pull it out.

[SUX2BU]

Installed an Apex ram air scoop and relocated the washer bottle.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167747

Cost of today's mods: $134.99

[SUX2BU]

So I went down to Houston for the Texas Camaro Nationals, but couldn't stay for the racing Sunday so I got a few runs in on Saturday.

A big thanks to LoneStarCamaro for getting these videos of my car.

This was Ginger's first time on drag radials and I was VERY limited on time so I didn't get to experiment with different psi settings and rpm for a decent launch so I couldn't muster a good 60'. Best time was:

60'.............1.9177
330'...........5.3122
660'...........8.1082
660’ mph...88.13
1000'..........10.4886
1320'..........12.4867
1320’ mph…112.92

Corrected for the 1692 DA it is about a 12.25 @ 115.154




Here is a Video of me racing HPE650Ragtop. He was on street tires so I was able to get out on him enough to take the W.



Time slip





Me racing a supercharged Roush 427R Mustang




The time slip.

[SUX2BU]

11/05/11 Ginger gets some 18x4 CTS-V spares to use as skinnies.

I wasn't really planning on getting skinnies for the track but I ran across a set of wheels that I thought would fit for relatively cheap. They didn't, but since I had already bought them I decided to make them work with a little extra work. I did not want to simple run a spacer (not very safe especially for racing) and I also didn't want to run a huge adapter (didn't want to spend all this money to reduce the rotational mass and then add a heavy spacer with extra studs and lugs. I took a TON of measurements of everything involved and calculated that I needed 11mm of extra room to make the wheel fit and have adequate clearance for the brakes. Like I said earlier I did NOT want to run a regular spacer, I would only run a spacer that was hub centric on BOTH sides. I searched and searched but no one had what I needed. A couple companies would make custom hub centric spacers for me but they wanted an arm and a leg. Then I found a pair of 12mm hub centric spacers on Ebay for cheap, BUT they were 5x114.3mm bolt pattern and 67.1mm hubs. As you know our cars are 5x120mm bolt pattern and 66.9mm hubs. This wasn't the first time I had to make stuff fit so I ordered them and just figured I would wallow out the holes a bit (the important part is that they were hub centric inside/out and 67.1mm was VERY close to 66.9mm, .2mm is less than .008").

I also ordered longer studs to make up for the spacer I was going to add. There are a few choices for longer studs but the most affordable by far were replacement truck studs. They are exactly like ours except they are 7 mm longer. The spacer I was ordered was 12mm so I was giving up 5mm of threads going with this set up. It was going to be close on if I had enough threads to be safe. I calculated that I would have 7 full thread turns. Some places on line said the minimum was 6 turns and others said 9 turns, so this is where you have to make a judgement call. I actually ended up with about 7 1/2 turns, but I'll say 7 just to be safe.

Since the spacer was 12 mm thick and the hub "hat" was 11.53mm tall I knew the spacer was not going to sit flush. My remedy was to bevel the edge of the hub just enough for the spacer to fully seat on the rotor hat. I knocked out my studs and put in my longer ones. I had to grind a little notch in the aluminum part of the knuckle to be able to slide the longer studs in without having to remove the whole wheel bearing hub assembly. Since I am only getting 7 turns on the lugs I went ahead and used my stock GM wheel lugs from my Escalade for a little added safety.

When it was all said and done I think it came out pretty good. I lost ANOTHER 10 lbs off of each front wheels from my already VERY light street set up (44.4 lb 18x8.4 Forgestar F14 & 245/45 18 and 34.4 lb CTS-V 18x4 spare with M&H 185/50 18). If you are running stock 20" wheels you will lose almost 28 lbs off of each front wheel, that's a total loss of almost 56 lbs!

One thing you must also be aware of is that these tires are very short. my car is already VERY low because of my lowering springs and lightweight 18" Forgestar F14s. I'm sitting at about 2.5" lower than a stock SS. With these front runners I am another .6" lower up front. That's OVER 3" lower on the front of my car, so you have to be very careful when you drive on these. Since my car is already very low I'm already used to scanning the road when I drive to see what I have to avoid. I took some measurements and my front quarter fairs "mud flaps" were about 1.75" off the ground and my header flanges were even lower than that, about 1 5/8" off the ground. Also, these tires are made for a 5" wheel. These CTS-V wheels are only 4" wide, the rim lips are very tall and so are the bead shoulders. The tires were a HUGE pain in the ass to seat. I had to go to a specialty race tire shop to get them mounted and even he struggled a bit.

Finally, the last little thing about this set up I like is that one of these front runners can also double as a spare! Now, it doesn't fit perfectly in the spare tire well in the trunk. You can't actually put the flat cover over it, but you can put the carpeting back over and it's not that noticeable. I'm not going to drive around with this in my trunk all the time, but I will throw it in there when I go on road trips.

Total cost of today's mods: $561.97
two CTS-V 18x4 wheels: $180.00
two M&H 185/50 18 radials: $327.08
longer truck studs: $14.90
hub centric spacers: $39.99

[Ph4r]

Just a tip - including it as a spare will only save you time if you also include a jack and a lug wrench of some kind, as neither of these come with the car either.

I'd be scared to go that low, but glad these new rims work for you. Keep up the good work!

[SUX2BU]

Pics for my rub mark fix thread.

[SUX2BU]

The complete thread.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194349

[The Stig]

great write up. I can't believe how badly GM dropped the ball on the tops

[RED DEMON SS]

Great job and great looking car, hope to see it in person at this years CFest III!

[SUX2BU]

1/25/12
Swapped my 315/40 18 Nitto NT05R drag radials for some 315/30 18 Hoosier drag radials. I'm of the opposite opinion of most of the people on this site when it comes to sticky tires. Most want to run a 305/45 18 tire that is almost 29" tall. I think our cars are too heavy and don't have enough gear to lug such a tall tire out of the hole and down the track. Even on my 28" NT05Rs, I felt, were too tall. I got a smoking deal on 25.4" Hoosier drag radials so i swapped out.

To put it in perspective going from a 305/45 18 to a 315/30 18 is the equivalent of going from stock 3.45 gears to 3.90 gears. Plus all the rotational mass you are getting rid of doesn't hurt.

1/4 mile tracks are closed right now but I will post results as soon as they open. This is the ONLY change I have done since my last trip to the track which resulted in 12.35 @ 112.9 w/ 1.89 60' (12.16 @ 114.7 corrected for +1,429 DA).

Total cost of today's mods: I actually made $25!
Hoosier 315/30 18 drag radials: $375
Sold my 315/40 i8 Nitto NT05R drag radials $400

[SUX2BU]

Some daytime Wind Restrictor pics. Sorry my car is so filthy.

[Andrew6]

I wonder how minx oil would do on the top?

[SUX2BU]

1/30/12
Ginger has two sets of 18x11 Forgestar F14 (street and track). Her track shoes are 315/30 18 Hoosier drag radials (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198150).

Her street shoes are a pain in the ass because my ideal size for 18x11 street tire is 315/35 18 or even a 315/40 18, but of course no one makes a street tire in that size. Hell, the only tire available in either of those sizes is a 315/40 18 Nitto NT05R drag radial. I had a set of those for track use, but no way I would rock them as daily driver tires, put wayyy too many miles on Ginger. The closest tire I could find to what I wanted was Falken Tires Azenis RT-615 295/40 18 (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152827). It was a decent tire, but most people use it for a steetable road racing tire so it doesn't come with a ton of tread 8/32 and only has a treadwear of 200. It looked a little stretched on the 18x11 wheel, but it worked.

Well, my alignment ended up being off a bit and I didn't notice until a few weeks ago when I looked at my rears and they were pretty worn down. I shade tree mechanic checked it and the wheels were toed in about 1 degree on each end, got it realigned and had to start looking for replacement tires. I wanted tires with better treadwear and more tread depth, but the sizes I want are a bitch to find. I definitely wanted to go wider than 295. I came across the BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2 335/30 18 with a treadwear of 300 and 10/32 tread (better than the Falken's 8/32), but the recommended rim is 11.5"-12.5" . I Googled through a TON of pictures and finally found the tires on a 2011 Mustang GT with Forgestar CF5 18x11 rears. They definitely bulge out a bit but I said what the hell, I've had stretched tires, I'm gonna try them out just to see how they fit.

The tires are MAMMOTHLY WIDE! BFG are known to run pretty wide, but these things are redonkulous! Unmounted they measure in at about 13 5/8" wide. The 295s and 315s both measure in at 12 3/8" but those are mounted.

So what do you guys think? Will they fit? Will they rub? Will they stick out?

I know my way around cars so no matter what I will make them fit without sticking out and without rubbing. They are a bit shorter that even my 315/30 drag radials, but they aren't mounted and aired up yet and I don't mind shorter tires, helps with the gearing.

I'm not sure when I will throw these tires on, I usually run my tires to within an inch of their life and the Falkens are almost there. For the mean time I have to hide them from the wife. Having had 9 different tire sizes on my car (wow, my car isn't even a year old, LOL) damned UPS and Fed Ex always deliver tires when the Mrs is home and I get the whole "You bought more tires?!? Didn't your car come with tires?" This is the one time tires have been delivered while she isn't here. I'm gonna try and hide them, right in from of her face, stacked up in the garage between my track tire set up. You think she will notice my tire tower just got over 27" taller?

Cost of today's mods: $643.01
BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2 335/30 18 $643.01

[SUX2BU]

2/8/12 I hadn't planned on getting Ginger a driveshaft but I found a KILLER deal I just couldn't pass up! The install was pretty easy and very straight forward. I had to call The Driveshaft Shop and ask them for the torque specs and check a couple of things. They were great and very helpful even though I bought it used, nice bunch of guys.

I haven't had time to wash Ginger so excuse her filthiness.

Cost of today's mods: $475
Used 3.5" aluminum one piece drive shaft: $475

[nukemustang]

WOW!! I know the pics may be deceiving, but how much room is there actually between the drive shaft and that "hoop" in the tunnel??

[SUX2BU]

Originally Posted by nukemustang

WOW!! I know the pics may be deceiving, but how much room is there actually between the drive shaft and that "hoop" in the tunnel??

It's a tight fit, the closest spot is about 1/2" but remember the rear end is an IRS so it doesn't move up and down like a live axle.

[SUX2BU]

Got my 335/30 18 MEATS mounted and installed today!

[Ph4r]

Did Wifey notice?

[SUX2BU]

Originally Posted by Ph4r

Did Wifey notice?

LOL, she actually kind of did. She got home yesterday and asked where the other tires were? I said huh? She said there were six tires stacked up and now there are only four. I told her I put the extra tires in the shed and quickly changed the subject, LOL.

[SUX2BU]

Here is Ginger's Jenny Craig plan. She has lost about 201 lbs.

66 lbs Swapped to 18" Forgestar F14s http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151258
41 lbs Swapped full exhaust http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138007
36 lbs Swapped to a light weight battery http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157157
34 lbs over my already light F14s when I swap to my track wheels http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181059 http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198150
10 lbs BMR lowering springs, bushings http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138322
5 lbs ditch the engine cover http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...35&postcount=6
3 lbs Swap to ASP under drive pulley http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138511
3 lbs remove vert idiot net http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163839
3 lbs swap to DSS aluminum drive shaft http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201187

[Havnaparty]

You have a smokin hot car.
I just want your job so I could mod the hell out of my car.
Nice work by the way,looks really nice.

[SUX2BU]

Originally Posted by Havnaparty

You have a smokin hot car.
I just want your job so I could mod the hell out of my car.
Nice work by the way,looks really nice.

Funny you should say that, I'm actually looking for a job right now.

[hcoll003]

I love your car, been following all your threads. I'm pretty bummed out because I want the 18" Forgestars for my car but I just bought brand new Pirellis for my stock 20's. I don't want to wait till I need to purchase new tires but I don't see how I could make this happen, because I need the money at least from my wheels to pay for the tires. How much should I be able to get for a set of 4 Stock SS polished wheels with new Pirellis (only 800 miles on them) with sensors included? Thanks I wonder what my options are?

[SUX2BU]

Originally Posted by hcoll003

I love your car, been following all your threads. I'm pretty bummed out because I want the 18" Forgestars for my car but I just bought brand new Pirellis for my stock 20's. I don't want to wait till I need to purchase new tires but I don't see how I could make this happen, because I need the money at least from my wheels to pay for the tires. How much should I be able to get for a set of 4 Stock SS polished wheels with new Pirellis (only 800 miles on them) with sensors included? Thanks I wonder what my options are?

With new tires and perfect condition wheels you should be able to get $1,000-$1,200.
I think I have $2,100 total in my street set up. So you only really need to save up about $900-$1,100.


Some pics I took today.

[SUX2BU]

Today is Ginger's birthday!