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Old 08-19-2011, 11:46 AM   #18
SSMOKINHOT
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Great write up!! Thanks!!
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Old 08-19-2011, 12:42 PM   #19
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Great write up. bookmark for sure. quick question. I'm trying to get my calipers powder coated, I'm removing the entire caliper and pins, what else do I need to remove from the caliper in order for them to get powder coated. thanks.
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Old 08-19-2011, 01:31 PM   #20
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I changed my pads over to Hawk HPS the other day. This was by far the easiest brake pad change I have ever done!
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:16 PM   #21
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Great write up, I am going to paint my rotors and not the caliper.
I want to rmove the rotor can I just unbolt the 2 18mm bolts and how do I release the caliper piston ?
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Den View Post
Great write up, I am going to paint my rotors and not the caliper.
I want to rmove the rotor can I just unbolt the 2 18mm bolts and how do I release the caliper piston ?
Dave
T30 torx bolt into the face of the rotor.
The caliper will push back in with not too much force. You can use clamps as shown or just pry it in with a large screwdriver.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:59 PM   #23
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Thanks for the awesome writeup! I'm planning on doing a brake pad upgrade.

MAYBE in the future I'll do the CTS-Vs up front, I haven't felt the need for too much more braking performance yet though. All bolt-ons so far...

Thanks for the DIY write-up!
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Looks: powder coated iom calipers, LED foglights w/ always on harness, custom painted bowties, window tint, smoke tinted tail lights etc, oem gfx w/ custom outlets, painted taillight bezels, all weather trunk mat
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:16 PM   #24
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Thanks ,
I got them off and am in the process of painting.
Davd
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:26 AM   #25
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This is great! I plan on swapping the pads Sunday monring before the AutoX event and the rotors the next weekend. I plan to use a scoth brite to scrub the rotors, should I use any chenical or water with it? More importantly, will waiting a week for the new front rotors cause any bedding issues with the pads?
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:07 PM   #26
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IMO, it would be nice if the suppliers selling replacement rotors would go ahead and include the caliper to knuckle bolts in their packages,,,
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:48 AM   #27
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Good job on the DIY Big Brunsy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmcd View Post
You'll need to buy new caliper-to-spindle bolts. They're not expensive, but they are torque-to-yield and should not be reused. You'll never get them torqued to specs once they've been stretched.
I think that this should be added to DIY because if they are torque to yield bolts they should NOT be used again. Sure you might be able to get away with it a time or two but are you willing to take the chance. That being said does anyone also have the torque spec for the caliper mounting bracket bolts? Or are they standard torque? I failed to find that anywhere :(
And torque specs from what I have found without talking to the dealership for the caliper bolts.
These specs were from a thread posted on C5
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169229
Front - 33 ft lbs + 90 degrees GM P/N 11570788 M14 x 2.0 x 56.5
Rear – 30 ft lbs + 90 degrees GM P/N 11515781 M12 x 1.75 x 60
GM manual states install new bolts.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:51 PM   #28
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My bad. For some reason I was thinking that the caliper bolted to a bracket that you had to remove in order to get the rotor off. I went out today and pulled one apart and answered my own question. If I would have looked at the pictures a little closer I would have seen that, plus I thought last night that the 33 + 90 seemed a little extreme for caliper to bracket bolts
So I guess I will go to the dealer tomorrow and get some new bolts.
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:06 AM   #29
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Regarding the TTY bolts, is it recommended that you'd use some sort of compound for torqueing down the bolts (I think ARP has some stuff) that is supposed to help in the process or can you just torque down the new bolts with some Loctite and call it good? Just curious as I have all the parts enroute to replace pads, rotors, and brake lines.

Thanks for any input and Thanks OP for the awesome write up with good pics!

-Tim
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:07 AM   #30
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i'm swapping my front calipers/rotors to the cts-v 6 piston setup. What is the part number for the new spindle caliper bolts? anyone have that?
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:24 AM   #31
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New DBA 5000 Series 2-Piece front rotors and 4000 Series rear rotors with Hawk HPS pads and Russell braided steel brake lines installed as of today. All Brake Equipment was purchased from MarylandSpeed.

Initial thoughts:

I took my car out onto the interstate and on to an off-ramp to bed the pads in. Jammed on the brakes from 75 mph (speed limit on I-70 where I live) down to the stop sign. Immediate right turn to a road where the speed limit at the off-ramp's stop sign is 40MPH but goes up to 55 MPH 1/4 mile up the road. I conducted a few hard stops from 40 and 55 and then made the right turn onto another road where the speed limit is 55 and conducted a couple more hard "brake events". I drove back through town and conducted the same loop without hitting the brakes "hard" twice more for a total of 15 minutes without hard stopping. On initial "bedding" and subsequent stopping, the brakes now feel almost "spongy" where they used to have an initial "bite". However, pushing harder on the brake pedal initiates a more "sharp" stopping event. The brakes used to have that initial "bite" and then stop hard with a slight "fading" feeling. Now, it's the exact opposite. It takes more pedal pressure to feel that "bite" but it's more progressive and the stops are definitely shorter from a "seat of the pants" perspective. I hit the brakes where I used to to turn onto the main road that my driveway sits off of, for example, and I actually almost stopped short of the road. I've experienced ZERO noise from the new set up and my only complaint at all is that when I ordered the rotors, they were supposed to be "black hat" rotors, but what I received was painted gold. Personally, I don't care as long as the parts that I spent money on work better than stock. Out where I live, it takes deliberate braking events to "test" a brake system short of racing a car on a track. I'll be adding the separate reservoir for the clutch tomorrow and I'll check to make sure that everything still looks and "acts" normal.

Again, thanks to Maryland Speed, Ofer(2SSRS), and 2010CAMAROJ for getting me the parts that I need to complete my brake and clutch systems. I'm hoping that in the spring I'll get my chance to test the brakes to their "full potential" to see just how much better what I purchased is than stock.

-Tim
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:10 AM   #32
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Thanks for the order! This is a great write up!
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:35 AM   #33
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Thank you for this! I just installed new pads last night. This was, by far, the easiest brake job I've ever done and your post made it a breeze.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:41 PM   #34
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Thanks for the write-up. I will be replacing brake pads this week.
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