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Old 02-22-2013, 12:15 AM   #51
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dont you have to open the bleeder and let the fluid run out when you push the piston back in? after all, its has abs
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:42 AM   #52
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dont you have to open the bleeder and let the fluid run out when you push the piston back in? after all, its has abs
No. I made that mistake changing my fronts last weekend. You just need to open up the brake fluid cap so it can vent well and have something to push the piston back in evenly. My dad had an old school steering wheel puller laying around that worked perfectly. If you open up anything, then it's a whole nother headache.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:36 PM   #53
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Always bleed the fluid at every brake pads you change. Brake fluid absorbs water from the humidity in the air, the water is heavier than brake fluid so the water is pushed to the end of the line, and then it allows corrosion of the system.

Agree! High school auto mech teacher would ride our butts if we pushed that fluid behind the piston back up into the break lines. We had to put a wrench on the bleeder, pop a small hose on the bleeder and into a coke bottle. Open the bleeder and pushed the piston back into the caliper, and the fluid behind the piston would escape out of the bleeder and into the coke bottle. Tighten up the bleeder as the piston bottoms out. Was amazed at how cloudy the fluid in the coke bottle looked. You then could look at the fluid in the coke bottle and check for rust or metal particles or ??? Of course in high school we were working on cars that were daily drivers that ran through deep puddles and snow and salt. Not something most of us do with our camaros.

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Last edited by STINGS; 02-23-2013 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:13 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by CrzyGamr2 View Post
You just need to open up the brake fluid cap so it can vent well and have something to push the piston back in evenly.
I used the old worn pad for this before I took it out. New one slides right in.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:35 PM   #55
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Great Write up!
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:36 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by eb_SS View Post
Found a video, that follows this DIY except it isn't on a Camaro.

Its less than 2.5 minutes…

This video clarified it even more!
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:46 AM   #57
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Thank you for this! I just installed new pads last night. This was, by far, the easiest brake job I've ever done and your post made it a breeze.


thanks. easy Job for sure.
will go back to stock (remove the Hawks) after this weekend's track day. had I know it would be that easy might have just installed them at the track

Thank you!
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:01 AM   #58
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EBC brake pads have a breakin film that will clean the rotor and help bed the pads, they say it could take 200 to 1000 miles of regular driving.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:24 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eb_SS View Post
Found a video, that follows this DIY except it isn't on a Camaro.

Its less than 2.5 minutes…

Ok, wait a minute? I took the freaking caoipers OFF the car like I've always had to do. Interesting.
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Old 06-20-2013, 04:17 PM   #60
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Ok, wait a minute? I took the freaking caoipers OFF the car like I've always had to do. Interesting.
It's really that easy?! Sweet!
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:35 PM   #61
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Did anyone find the torque specs for the bolts that hold the rotors to the hub/axle?
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:52 PM   #62
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Did anyone find the torque specs for the bolts that hold the rotors to the hub/axle?
torque specs: front 44 lb/ft 90 deg, rear 30 lb/ft 90 deg. Means torque to spec and then turn 90 degrees more.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:55 PM   #63
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torque specs: front 44 lb/ft 90 deg, rear 30 lb/ft 90 deg. Means torque to spec and then turn 90 degrees more.

Awesome thank you! Doing my brakes tomorrow, my rotors are warped so i wanted to just do all 4 brakes and pads.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:22 PM   #64
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oh hey guys one more quick question, the 18mm caliper to bracket bolts, is there a torque spec on those or is it just tighten them down to snug?
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:24 PM   #65
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oh hey guys one more quick question, the 18mm caliper to bracket bolts, is there a torque spec on those or is it just tighten them down to snug?
65ft lbs
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:38 PM   #66
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Thank you guys for all the info. Keep on cruisin'!
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:19 PM   #67
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Ok, doing this right now and stupid question! The little metal shims that are thin like a pop can on the back of the pads. Do you put those back on? Put the Molly lube right on the pad and then got worried! Please tell me no!!
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:44 PM   #68
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Ok, doing this right now and stupid question! The little metal shims that are thin like a pop can on the back of the pads. Do you put those back on? Put the Molly lube right on the pad and then got worried! Please tell me no!!
If you mean the metal shims that look like wheel balancers, no. I remember reading GM added these to help with noise coming from the pads.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:13 PM   #69
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Not the ones that looks like wheel weights. These are like a flat aluminum shim that sit between the pad and the piston. Have to drive 100 miles tmr just want to make sure I don't have to stay up and put them back!!!! If just noise I can deal for a day or so. Thanks guys!!
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:52 PM   #70
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Not the ones that looks like wheel weights. These are like a flat aluminum shim that sit between the pad and the piston. Have to drive 100 miles tmr just want to make sure I don't have to stay up and put them back!!!! If just noise I can deal for a day or so. Thanks guys!!
Toss 'em! At least half, maybe more, are run without them.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:15 PM   #71
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DIY: change Brake Pads/ rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_2SS View Post
Not the ones that looks like wheel weights. These are like a flat aluminum shim that sit between the pad and the piston. Have to drive 100 miles tmr just want to make sure I don't have to stay up and put them back!!!! If just noise I can deal for a day or so. Thanks guys!!
*edit. I'M NO EXPERT but I believe the thin metal "shim" is just for noise. When I did my brakes I took everything out and only put what was in the new parts box back on. The pads and the pins that hold the pads in are the only required parts I believe.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:17 PM   #72
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Great write-up and info here, thank you all. Just installed my Stillen rotors and it went great! I can't believe that torx bit is 65 ft/lbs. it was very easy to get off. I put thread lock on them so they'll be alright.
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:08 PM   #73
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Thanks!! Great write up
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:46 PM   #74
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Great write up - Will Bookmark.
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Old 11-01-2013, 04:46 PM   #75
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Changed my rotors and pads this morning and this write up was excellent. Made it a breeze. Thanks.
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