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Old 11-07-2011, 09:06 AM   #29
aldaron327
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Regarding the TTY bolts, is it recommended that you'd use some sort of compound for torqueing down the bolts (I think ARP has some stuff) that is supposed to help in the process or can you just torque down the new bolts with some Loctite and call it good? Just curious as I have all the parts enroute to replace pads, rotors, and brake lines.

Thanks for any input and Thanks OP for the awesome write up with good pics!

-Tim
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:07 AM   #30
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i'm swapping my front calipers/rotors to the cts-v 6 piston setup. What is the part number for the new spindle caliper bolts? anyone have that?
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:24 PM   #31
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New DBA 5000 Series 2-Piece front rotors and 4000 Series rear rotors with Hawk HPS pads and Russell braided steel brake lines installed as of today. All Brake Equipment was purchased from MarylandSpeed.

Initial thoughts:

I took my car out onto the interstate and on to an off-ramp to bed the pads in. Jammed on the brakes from 75 mph (speed limit on I-70 where I live) down to the stop sign. Immediate right turn to a road where the speed limit at the off-ramp's stop sign is 40MPH but goes up to 55 MPH 1/4 mile up the road. I conducted a few hard stops from 40 and 55 and then made the right turn onto another road where the speed limit is 55 and conducted a couple more hard "brake events". I drove back through town and conducted the same loop without hitting the brakes "hard" twice more for a total of 15 minutes without hard stopping. On initial "bedding" and subsequent stopping, the brakes now feel almost "spongy" where they used to have an initial "bite". However, pushing harder on the brake pedal initiates a more "sharp" stopping event. The brakes used to have that initial "bite" and then stop hard with a slight "fading" feeling. Now, it's the exact opposite. It takes more pedal pressure to feel that "bite" but it's more progressive and the stops are definitely shorter from a "seat of the pants" perspective. I hit the brakes where I used to to turn onto the main road that my driveway sits off of, for example, and I actually almost stopped short of the road. I've experienced ZERO noise from the new set up and my only complaint at all is that when I ordered the rotors, they were supposed to be "black hat" rotors, but what I received was painted gold. Personally, I don't care as long as the parts that I spent money on work better than stock. Out where I live, it takes deliberate braking events to "test" a brake system short of racing a car on a track. I'll be adding the separate reservoir for the clutch tomorrow and I'll check to make sure that everything still looks and "acts" normal.

Again, thanks to Maryland Speed, Ofer(2SSRS), and 2010CAMAROJ for getting me the parts that I need to complete my brake and clutch systems. I'm hoping that in the spring I'll get my chance to test the brakes to their "full potential" to see just how much better what I purchased is than stock.

-Tim
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:10 AM   #32
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Thanks for the order! This is a great write up!
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:35 AM   #33
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Thank you for this! I just installed new pads last night. This was, by far, the easiest brake job I've ever done and your post made it a breeze.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:41 PM   #34
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Thumbs up

Thanks for the write-up. I will be replacing brake pads this week.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:40 AM   #35
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Ok have stock pads on and ordered some ceramics through the local auto parts store. The pads they gave me were not the same size and shape of the stock. Is there a difference in aftermarket size and shape compared to the OEM? If so shouldnt they still use the spring and pins that the stock use?
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:19 PM   #36
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Just installed a set of crosss drilled and slotted rotors along with the pads on my 2011 Camaro. Scared as hell but I got thru it with flying colors thanks to this article. I also installed MGP caliper covers while everything was apart. Thanks a bunch for a GREAT DIY article. Helluva lot of brake dust during the "bedding" process though!
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:39 PM   #37
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Holy crap. I've never even watched someone else install brake pads before but I read through this and it gave me the courage to save the $500 the dealer was going to charge me.

Literally took me 15 minutes per wheel. Thanks for the write up.
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:32 PM   #38
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Are these two bolts the torque to yield bolts?
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:20 PM   #39
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going to paint my rotors and not the caliper.

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Great write up, I am going to paint my rotors and not the caliper.
I want to rmove the rotor can I just unbolt the 2 18mm bolts and how do I release the caliper piston ?
Dave
AM I the only one who's never heard of anyone painting the rotors before??
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Old 03-24-2012, 06:58 AM   #40
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AM I the only one who's never heard of anyone painting the rotors before??
That's what I was thinking, LOL! Maybe he's going to paint the center???
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:26 AM   #41
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That's what I was thinking, LOL! Maybe he's going to paint the center???
This. He's probably going to paint the rotor hats.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:44 AM   #42
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This. He's probably going to paint the rotor hats.
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