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Old 03-22-2011, 05:18 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by PAUL SS View Post
OUCH!
Especially when you hit them with the air gun
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:21 PM   #36
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I was under the car the other day and decided to inspect the entire underneath. Well, I found this broken braket peice that is basically the control arm. It is the peice welded onto the control arm that the end links to the sway bar connects to.
You are abusing your car.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:27 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by BackinBlackSS/RS View Post
You are abusing your car.
Nah, he is driving it like he owns it

In some ways you are correct, but that is exactly why many of us bought a 5th Gen. We planned to abuse it, I mean use it, from day one. One of the things we don't do is check our nuts from one end of the car to the other on a routine basis. The cars are very fast stock with more brake HP than engine HP. With a few mods, they are running race car speeds, but for the most part maintained like a street car. Bottom line, if the nuts were tight this thread doesn't exists.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:37 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avalnch View Post
The other side is starting to crack too.
lol, I still don't have the answer to wether that's a crack or an OE slit.

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Originally Posted by CoyoteRiverRacing View Post
PQ - Did you find better LCA arms?

TIA
Chet
I'm thinking I don't need them.

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Originally Posted by BMR guy View Post
This is the third control arm I have seen with this problem. The OE brackets are only 1/8" material and there is insufficient material surroundling the bolt hole. To the OP, where the nuts loose on the end link when you found it this way?

During our control arm testing, we actually updated the sway bar mounts on the control arms specifically because of these failures. The sway bar mounts were increased in thickness to 3/16" material and the hole has a full 1/2" of material around it's radius...
Are you selling them? If so, how much? ]

Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The key take aways from this thread is how critical it is to get the endlink nuts tight to GM torque specifications the first time and knowing that the OE nut loses quench every time it is turned. With proper care at the time of installation your endlink nuts should remain tight in place and your lower rear control arms will provide excellent service. There is NO brand issue. Your OE arms are good to go. Get the endlink nuts tight the first time.

Buy a 55 gallon Drum of LocTite and just dip everything
Good stuff Pete. And thanks again for your help. I still got the new end links though.

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You are abusing your car.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Nah, he is driving it like he owns it

In some ways you are correct, but that is exactly why many of us bought a 5th Gen. We planned to abuse it, I mean use it, from day one. One of the things we don't do is check our nuts from one end of the car to the other on a routine basis. The cars are very fast stock with more brake HP than engine HP. With a few mods, they are running race car speeds, but for the most part maintained like a street car. Bottom line, if the nuts were tight this thread doesn't exists.
Typicaly I look my car over from time to time anyway. Bonnie accused me Sunday of being under my car "Only because Chris is"
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:41 PM   #39
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I agree with Pete, 99% of all street cars will never have this happen unless a nut is left loose and the end link stud oblongs the hole. Every incident I have seen have been on hardcore cars that see a lot of drag strip use and are running larger diameter rear sway bars.

The sway bar end link mount is located approximately in the middle of the control arm. I assume it was designed this way primarily for packaging purposes as placing it further out on the control arm would have provided more controlled anti-roll characteristics from a much smaller sway bar. As it is, more rate is required to overcome the leverage, producing much more load on the sway bar mount.
Keep in mind that the rear sway bar on the upcoming ZL1 is rumored to be much wider which would place these mounts further out on the control arms. Maybe this isn't such an isolated incident after all...

Our dragrace anti-roll bar (will be released soon) is rated at 3614 lbs/in., that's 780% more than the OE bar. After a certain power level, it becomes necesarry to run high rear bar rates for launch consistency. These higher rates place a lot more load on this mount and since it is a single shear mount the 1/8" material just won't cut it. In summary, it is understandable in these conditions that there are failures but in a typical street car, I doubt it will ever be an issue providing the nuts are tight.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:42 PM   #40
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Bottom line, if the nuts were tight this thread doesn't exists.
Ya, but we wouldn't have learned anything here either........

Leave it to me to tear it up so we can learn. Just doing my part. You guys are welcom.




Oh. And Pete, or someone, is this a normal slit by design, or do I need to order another control arm as well?

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Old 03-22-2011, 05:43 PM   #41
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For what it's worth. I installed my pedders sways and coilovers on Saturday...

Made extra sure everything was tight.

Went for about a 15 mile ride on Sunday. Drove to work on Monday and rechecked everything in the rear... I was chasing a rattle that turned out to be an exhaust hanger...

All of my sway bar endlinks were lose and a couple other bolts had loosened up a bit...

I'm gonna check the front tonight.. I'm guessing like header bolts... we'll need to recheck them a few times until these fasteners get a chance to seat... especially the DIY guys who don't have shop quality tools.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:48 PM   #42
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I'll look at mine tonight bro, I'll see if there is a slot... I'm guessing based on what the pros are saying, it isn't supposed to be there.... Not if we are concerned about elongating the hole... it wouldn't make sense to put an "expansion" slot in there which would defeat the purpose if I understand the failure correctly.

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Old 03-22-2011, 05:49 PM   #43
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For what it's worth. I installed my pedders sway and coilovers on Saturday...

Made extra sure everything was tight.

Went for about a 15 mile ride on Sunday. Drove to work on Monday and rechecked everything in the rear... I was chasing a rattle that turned out to be an exhaust hanger...

All of my sway bar endlinks were lose and a couple other bolts had loosened up a bit...

I'm gonna check the front tonight.. I'm guessing like header bolts... we'll need to recheck them a few times until theses fasteners get a chance to seat... especially the DIY guys who don't have shop quality tools.


The end links are NOT easy to torque.

Just for yalls info, I put my body weight on it the best I could once the nut was tight enough that it wouldn't turn the shaft, and it STILL came off once before. HOWEVER. The bottom nut never came off of either side. The only ones that had come loose before were the top ones, ON the sway bar. Not the ones on the ca. So it lets you know how tight these need to be.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:51 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Nah, he is driving it like he owns it

In some ways you are correct, but that is exactly why many of us bought a 5th Gen. We planned to abuse it, I mean use it, from day one. One of the things we don't do is check our nuts from one end of the car to the other on a routine basis. The cars are very fast stock with more brake HP than engine HP. With a few mods, they are running race car speeds, but for the most part maintained like a street car. Bottom line, if the nuts were tight this thread doesn't exists.
PSST!!! Hey Pete, it was a joke.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:52 PM   #45
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PSST!!! Hey Pete, it was a joke.
NO JOKES!!! the Internet is serious!!!

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Old 03-22-2011, 05:54 PM   #46
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NO JOKES!!! the Internet is serious!!!

I'm sorry I always forget that.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:54 PM   #47
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:58 PM   #48
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Nope. Just make sure your nuts are tight
Lmao I'll have my girlfriend check! haha
Thanks Pete
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:03 PM   #49
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is this a normal slit by design, or do I need to order another control arm as well?


The line could just be a crack in the powder coat. The rusty ring appears to indicate movement from the nut being loose. Pull it apart. If the hole is round and true, bolt it backup with a hardened washer and I'll bet you are good to go. If the hole is elongated a bit, assemble it the same way and you should be good to go as we have done this with other 55h Gens that had the same problem. None have failed. If the hole is elongated a lot, and the rusty ring doesn't indicate a lot, you should replace the arm before you travel to the FEST.

If you post a picture of the tab without the endlink, we can decide right here in the thread.
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:47 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post

The line could just be a crack in the powder coat. The rusty ring appears to indicate movement from the nut being loose. Pull it apart. If the hole is round and true, bolt it backup with a hardened washer and I'll bet you are good to go. If the hole is elongated a bit, assemble it the same way and you should be good to go as we have done this with other 55h Gens that had the same problem. None have failed. If the hole is elongated a lot, and the rusty ring doesn't indicate a lot, you should replace the arm before you travel to the FEST.

If you post a picture of the tab without the endlink, we can decide right here in the thread.
Picture coming this evening.
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:55 PM   #51
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Son of a b!!!

I just went out to look and mine, and look at what I find on the driver's side:

The nut is gone, but bolt undamaged it seems. The passenger side nut was loose, I could turn it with my fingers....

I hated these tierods the moment I installed my sway bars. To torque the nut you have to use a hex key to hold the bolt or the fitting just spins. Which is ok, but apparently I didn't do a good job.

I can't believe I didn't feel the problem, but it is winter around here and I haven't been ripping around much...

This is my fault for not checking the instl after a time, but those lower fittings are still a crap design (but mine look ok for now).

If anybody makes tierods with forked ends let me know I'll be the first in line... Time for a locking nut or some safety wire too.
Actually, I found mine like that twice.

My situation now is on the bottom. But that's common there what you have, like Pete said, locktite, hardwasher and cle3an threads. Torque it down good.
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