Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
JDP Motorsports
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Suspension / Brakes / Chassis


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-22-2011, 04:49 PM   #43
PQ
Booooosted.
 
PQ's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Supercharged SS
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 36,714
Send a message via Yahoo to PQ
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTAHVIT View Post
For what it's worth. I installed my pedders sway and coilovers on Saturday...

Made extra sure everything was tight.

Went for about a 15 mile ride on Sunday. Drove to work on Monday and rechecked everything in the rear... I was chasing a rattle that turned out to be an exhaust hanger...

All of my sway bar endlinks were lose and a couple other bolts had loosened up a bit...

I'm gonna check the front tonight.. I'm guessing like header bolts... we'll need to recheck them a few times until theses fasteners get a chance to seat... especially the DIY guys who don't have shop quality tools.


The end links are NOT easy to torque.

Just for yalls info, I put my body weight on it the best I could once the nut was tight enough that it wouldn't turn the shaft, and it STILL came off once before. HOWEVER. The bottom nut never came off of either side. The only ones that had come loose before were the top ones, ON the sway bar. Not the ones on the ca. So it lets you know how tight these need to be.
__________________
PQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 04:51 PM   #44
BackinBlackSS/RS
Go Blue!!!!!
 
BackinBlackSS/RS's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 Cruze LT
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 23,297
Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Nah, he is driving it like he owns it

In some ways you are correct, but that is exactly why many of us bought a 5th Gen. We planned to abuse it, I mean use it, from day one. One of the things we don't do is check our nuts from one end of the car to the other on a routine basis. The cars are very fast stock with more brake HP than engine HP. With a few mods, they are running race car speeds, but for the most part maintained like a street car. Bottom line, if the nuts were tight this thread doesn't exists.
PSST!!! Hey Pete, it was a joke.
BackinBlackSS/RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 04:52 PM   #45
GTAHVIT
Blessed
 
GTAHVIT's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Sonic RS MT
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Saint Augustine FL
Posts: 28,495
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackinBlackSS/RS View Post
PSST!!! Hey Pete, it was a joke.
NO JOKES!!! the Internet is serious!!!

GTAHVIT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 04:54 PM   #46
BackinBlackSS/RS
Go Blue!!!!!
 
BackinBlackSS/RS's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 Cruze LT
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 23,297
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTAHVIT View Post
NO JOKES!!! the Internet is serious!!!

I'm sorry I always forget that.
BackinBlackSS/RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 04:54 PM   #47
GTAHVIT
Blessed
 
GTAHVIT's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Sonic RS MT
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Saint Augustine FL
Posts: 28,495
GTAHVIT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 04:58 PM   #48
TJ91
:chevy:
 
TJ91's Avatar
 
Drives: 2LT/RS
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 13,043
Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Nope. Just make sure your nuts are tight
Lmao I'll have my girlfriend check! haha
Thanks Pete
__________________
CAMARO
Consult your doctor before taking Camaro
Side effects include Sudden increase in Heart Rate, Insomnia and occasional hallucinations
If you experience Permagrin exceeding 4 hours after taking Camaro, seek immediate Camaro5 Help
CAMARO Bringing excitment back into the Garage
TJ91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 05:03 PM   #49
JusticePete
5th Gen Master Builder

 
JusticePete's Avatar
 
Drives: Camaro Justice
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 18,773
Quote:
Originally Posted by PQ View Post
is this a normal slit by design, or do I need to order another control arm as well?


The line could just be a crack in the powder coat. The rusty ring appears to indicate movement from the nut being loose. Pull it apart. If the hole is round and true, bolt it backup with a hardened washer and I'll bet you are good to go. If the hole is elongated a bit, assemble it the same way and you should be good to go as we have done this with other 55h Gens that had the same problem. None have failed. If the hole is elongated a lot, and the rusty ring doesn't indicate a lot, you should replace the arm before you travel to the FEST.

If you post a picture of the tab without the endlink, we can decide right here in the thread.
JusticePete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 05:47 PM   #50
PQ
Booooosted.
 
PQ's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Supercharged SS
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 36,714
Send a message via Yahoo to PQ
Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post

The line could just be a crack in the powder coat. The rusty ring appears to indicate movement from the nut being loose. Pull it apart. If the hole is round and true, bolt it backup with a hardened washer and I'll bet you are good to go. If the hole is elongated a bit, assemble it the same way and you should be good to go as we have done this with other 55h Gens that had the same problem. None have failed. If the hole is elongated a lot, and the rusty ring doesn't indicate a lot, you should replace the arm before you travel to the FEST.

If you post a picture of the tab without the endlink, we can decide right here in the thread.
Picture coming this evening.
__________________
PQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 05:55 PM   #51
PQ
Booooosted.
 
PQ's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Supercharged SS
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 36,714
Send a message via Yahoo to PQ
Quote:
Originally Posted by LightningSS View Post
Son of a b!!!

I just went out to look and mine, and look at what I find on the driver's side:

The nut is gone, but bolt undamaged it seems. The passenger side nut was loose, I could turn it with my fingers....

I hated these tierods the moment I installed my sway bars. To torque the nut you have to use a hex key to hold the bolt or the fitting just spins. Which is ok, but apparently I didn't do a good job.

I can't believe I didn't feel the problem, but it is winter around here and I haven't been ripping around much...

This is my fault for not checking the instl after a time, but those lower fittings are still a crap design (but mine look ok for now).

If anybody makes tierods with forked ends let me know I'll be the first in line... Time for a locking nut or some safety wire too.
Actually, I found mine like that twice.

My situation now is on the bottom. But that's common there what you have, like Pete said, locktite, hardwasher and cle3an threads. Torque it down good.
__________________
PQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 12:14 AM   #52
LightningSS
 
Drives: WAS '10 SS IBM, NOW '14 BRM ZL1
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: WA
Posts: 171
Bought new nuts with the nylon locking ring and used red loctite to install them tonight. Reefed them as tight as I could by hand, no impact wrench unfortunately. Fronts were ok. just tightened them a bit. Less than eighth turn.

Will definitely be keeping an eye on these now...
LightningSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 08:00 AM   #53
JusticePete
5th Gen Master Builder

 
JusticePete's Avatar
 
Drives: Camaro Justice
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 18,773
Nicely done.
JusticePete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 08:59 AM   #54
Rob@WretchedMS
 
Drives: His Wife Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson
Posts: 1,787
Not sure how i missed this yesterday, but everyone needs to be sure they are getting the end link nuts tight, and that they re-check them after a day or so of driving.

Pete was 100% right when he said the bracket broke due to a loose end link, you can see the right side link was loose too because of the red dust around it, be sure it's not cracked when you take it off, and follow Pete's advise and you should be good to go.

Anytime you see red dust like that it's form something being loose or something hitting/bottoming out.
Rob@WretchedMS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 10:00 AM   #55
PQ
Booooosted.
 
PQ's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Supercharged SS
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 36,714
Send a message via Yahoo to PQ
Ok. Good stuff.

We've seen loose end links on here before ON THE sway bar, but I think this is the first lower ones that have shown evidence of too loose. Difference in upper and lower apperenlty is lower will fail much quicker. I think we've learned something solid here in this thread.

I'll pose a slightly different 'questions' now.

Pete had asked me if it had come loose before, and I answered yes. I was mistaken. The TOP had come loose before but never the bottom. Doesn't change the outcome, diagnosis, and reason for the failure, we have that nailed down, but my new questions are a little further into it.

1. The last time I found the end link (on the top part where it attaches to the sway bar) loose, I was able to just push it back on and nut it. So there was not any pressure on it. That's normal right?

2. I went out lastnight (too late to jack it up and take it apart for pics) and went to tighten the other side just to see, and it's pretty damn tight. Considering the nut is still on there and still pretty tight, how do you know they are tight enough? I mean, I lifted my lying body off the ground when I tightened them. So how to know?

3. Kinda a sub-question to question 1, I was only able to put the end links in the rear hole on the sway bar. Just wouldn't go in flush on the center and not even close on the last hole. So, when the car is lowered, is there supposed to be pressure (the car sitting) with weight on the links and bar?
__________________
PQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 10:17 AM   #56
JusticePete
5th Gen Master Builder

 
JusticePete's Avatar
 
Drives: Camaro Justice
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 18,773
Quote:
Originally Posted by PQ View Post
Ok. Good stuff.

We've seen loose end links on here before ON THE sway bar, but I think this is the first lower ones that have shown evidence of too loose. Difference in upper and lower apparently is lower will fail much quicker. I think we've learned something solid here in this thread.

I'll pose a slightly different 'questions' now.

Pete had asked me if it had come loose before, and I answered yes. I was mistaken. The TOP had come loose before but never the bottom. Doesn't change the outcome, diagnosis, and reason for the failure, we have that nailed down, but my new questions are a little further into it.

1. The last time I found the end link (on the top part where it attaches to the sway bar) loose, I was able to just push it back on and nut it. So there was not any pressure on it. That's normal right? Luck of the draw. The bar just happened to be in a good position for reassembly.

2. I went out lastnight (too late to jack it up and take it apart for pics) and went to tighten the other side just to see, and it's pretty damn tight. Considering the nut is still on there and still pretty tight, how do you know they are tight enough? I mean, I lifted my lying body off the ground when I tightened them. So how to know? Unless you weigh 98 pounds dripping wet with your clothes on I would day it is tight.

3. Kinda a sub-question to question 1, I was only able to put the end links in the rear hole on the sway bar. Just wouldn't go in flush on the center and not even close on the last hole. So, when the car is lowered, is there supposed to be pressure (the car sitting) with weight on the links and bar?
The rear hole, closest to the end of the bar is the softest position. Your should be able to position the OE endlink in any of the adjustment holes. There are times you may need to use a screw jack to align the bar to the endlink ball stud. Disconnect both links when you are installing your new arm. Inspect the old arm to make sure you are good to go. If you are doing this on your back it is more difficult. Use your floor jack and a block of wood to align the bar to the second endlink. Keep in mind, the sway bar rotates in the d-bushes so even though the car is lowered the bar will adjust to the new position. Adjustable length endlinks will help keep the bar parallel to the chassis and also allow you to make the load even on both sides of the bar when corner weighting or allow you to pre-load the bar for advanced setup.
JusticePete is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Now i broke the rear drive shaft bolts and alot of damage. Vinnysrt8 V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) 82 07-04-2016 09:41 AM
Broke Something - Help Identify smaegley V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) 44 02-08-2011 05:03 PM
Headlamp Broke phenixdragon Cosmetics and Lighting Modification Discussions 1 12-10-2010 09:35 PM
Stock Gears Broke NickeyStage2 V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) 21 09-14-2010 04:11 PM
2010 Camaro 2SS Needs Repair Bumleb 5th Gen Camaro SS LS LT General Discussions 164 04-27-2009 10:09 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.