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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 02-18-2009, 11:27 PM   #1
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Oil Capacity LS3

Was kinda awed that the LS3 has an 8.6 quart oil capacity.

That is all..

Just didn't know if anyone else realized oil changes would cost $20 more.
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:14 AM   #2
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:26 AM   #3
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If you are going to use synthetic alot more than that. About 80 to 100.
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:30 AM   #4
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I heard the LS3 doesn't need oil changes...You just change out engines every 250,000 miles.
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:41 AM   #5
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I heard the LS3 doesn't need oil changes...You just change out engines every 250,000 miles.
LOL ....
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Old 02-19-2009, 10:20 AM   #6
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You'd almost assume it has a dry sump system with that capacity. I think it's that large because of the oil cooler. No complaints here though, I don't mind paying more for an oil change if it means I get more of it protecting my engine.
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Old 02-19-2009, 10:54 AM   #7
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If you are going to use synthetic alot more than that. About 80 to 100.
$80? What brand of oil you using? I can get it done for $40-$50 depending on if I need to buy an oil filter.

Personally I'm not worried about the cost. Synthetic gets more mileage per quart then dino and with such a large capacity, you should be able to get 12-15k between oil changes easy.
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:21 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by JJ#48Racing View Post
You'd almost assume it has a dry sump system with that capacity. I think it's that large because of the oil cooler. No complaints here though, I don't mind paying more for an oil change if it means I get more of it protecting my engine.
If you look at the pics it looks like the HUGE oil pan is the cause.

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Originally Posted by Mr_Draco View Post
$80? What brand of oil you using? I can get it done for $40-$50 depending on if I need to buy an oil filter.

Personally I'm not worried about the cost. Synthetic gets more mileage per quart then dino and with such a large capacity, you should be able to get 12-15k between oil changes easy.
Average cost of good synthetic 6.00
x
9.00 quarts
--------
= 54.00
+
an equally capable filter 10.00
--------
$64.00 to do it yourself, add a little more for a shops time. And if your going to go 15k miles between changes your gonna need that $10-$15 oil filter.
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert91RS View Post
If you look at the pics it looks like the HUGE oil pan is the cause.



Average cost of good synthetic 6.00
x
9.00 quarts
--------
= 54.00
+
an equally capable filter 10.00
--------
$64.00 to do it yourself, add a little more for a shops time. And if your going to go 15k miles between changes your gonna need that $10-$15 oil filter.

Or consider changing that filter a couple times during that interval. I've seen (somewhere) that synthetic oil doesn't really break-down, per se, but it just get contaminated by combustion blow-by and such. I personally don't care - I'll still be changing oil every 3-5K miles.
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:38 AM   #10
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I did not realize the LS3 has an oil capacity of 8.6 quarts; however I am sure the Camaro will have an oil life monitering system which will tell you when the oil need to be changed. My wife's 2005 Monte Carlo has such a moniter
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:45 AM   #11
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This is horrible of me, but I run synthetic in my cobalt and I only change the oil when the car tells me to. I changed it every 3-5K at first, but with my new job I decided to let it go one time (which I am currently still doing) and see how long the car recommends between changes.

I must say though, when it comes to my 'maro then I will be changing the oil more frequently, and with better quality then I have before. I hear royal purple is good, and good things about mobil1.
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert91RS View Post
If you look at the pics it looks like the HUGE oil pan is the cause.



Average cost of good synthetic 6.00
x
9.00 quarts
--------
= 54.00
+
an equally capable filter 10.00
--------
$64.00 to do it yourself, add a little more for a shops time. And if your going to go 15k miles between changes your gonna need that $10-$15 oil filter.
Most brands now a days offer 5 quart jugs for cheaper then what 5 individual quarts cost. The last time this topic came up I priced checked some prices. At Walmart you could buy 1 quart of synthetic of $6 or a 5 quart jug for $22.
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D View Post
If you are going to use synthetic alot more than that. About 80 to 100.
Cost of 6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum @ $6.49 quart $39..

Add 3 more quarts to make up the 5.5 qt. capacity of LS1 to LS3 @ 8.6 quarts.. 3 x $6.49 plus 6% tax equals $20.67

An additional $20 per oil change.
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Old 02-19-2009, 03:20 PM   #14
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I used to work for an engine oil additive company working on proprietary additive packages for leading oil companies. The weakest link is your oil filter and soot when running synthetic oil. Synthetic oils may be a LITTLE better at suspending solids but still marginally better than dino oil which means sludge will still build up in your engine. Increase the oil capacity will dilute the sludge meaning you can go a little longer before reaching the same detrimental effects...

Oil change intervals very depending on your climate, area of use, and driving habits. I've seen engines run for 25,000 miles nonstop 24/7 in the testing bay with synthetic oil and have vertually identical viscosity and lubricating parameters; however, the cylinder walls were still scratched. On analysis, the oil had very high amounts of aluminum and suspended carbon deposits.

I change the oil in my cars with mobile 1 10w30 full syn every 5,000 miles. I drive my cars like I stole them.

I will change the oil in my Camaro after break-in though. From there on, every 5k should do the trick.

I have personally ran all the tests listed in this PDF... http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1971.pdf
Amsoil is listed #1 in all the tests...my personal results varied a bit but mobile 1 and amsoil were neck and neck!
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:15 PM   #15
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I change the oil in my cars with mobile 1 10w30 full syn every 5,000 miles. I drive my cars like I stole them.
That is my plan of action for the Camaro. As well as the way I will drive it part.
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Old 02-19-2009, 05:06 PM   #16
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just look at the oil on the dipstick,dirty=change ,clean= dont change.i dont need a computer for that.

my first few oil changes will be very frequent.just to make sure it catches all the flash(if any),i will be using amsoil .

Oh and remember to think with your dipstick

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Old 02-22-2009, 09:43 AM   #17
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I used to work for an engine oil additive company working on proprietary additive packages for leading oil companies. The weakest link is your oil filter and soot when running synthetic oil. Synthetic oils may be a LITTLE better at suspending solids but still marginally better than dino oil which means sludge will still build up in your engine. Increase the oil capacity will dilute the sludge meaning you can go a little longer before reaching the same detrimental effects...

Oil change intervals very depending on your climate, area of use, and driving habits. I've seen engines run for 25,000 miles nonstop 24/7 in the testing bay with synthetic oil and have vertually identical viscosity and lubricating parameters; however, the cylinder walls were still scratched. On analysis, the oil had very high amounts of aluminum and suspended carbon deposits.

I change the oil in my cars with mobile 1 10w30 full syn every 5,000 miles. I drive my cars like I stole them.

I will change the oil in my Camaro after break-in though. From there on, every 5k should do the trick.

I have personally ran all the tests listed in this PDF... http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1971.pdf
Amsoil is listed #1 in all the tests...my personal results varied a bit but mobile 1 and amsoil were neck and neck!
Excellant post! I am a hydraulic engineer so I enjoyed reading the results of the test of the various motor oils.
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Old 02-22-2009, 10:57 AM   #18
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As a chemical engineer, I should warn you guys about reading test results from a bias manufacturers website.

It should trouble you that they won in every category... this is total BS.

Do you think they would have shown you results if they came in 4th or 5th?

I have seen some unbias results in a thead here before... do a search.
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Old 02-22-2009, 02:39 PM   #19
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As a chemical engineer, I should warn you guys about reading test results from a bias manufacturers website.

It should trouble you that they won in every category... this is total BS.

Do you think they would have shown you results if they came in 4th or 5th?

I have seen some unbias results in a thead here before... do a search.


There is a reason why every single manufacturer says they score the best among other leading brands. They only do the tests on other brands that they know will score lower then they do.
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Old 02-22-2009, 03:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camarolt76 View Post
I did not realize the LS3 has an oil capacity of 8.6 quarts; however I am sure the Camaro will have an oil life monitering system which will tell you when the oil need to be changed. My wife's 2005 Monte Carlo has such a moniter
so does my 99 sierra, so i'd assume you're right

Quote:
Originally Posted by blindingillusion View Post
This is horrible of me, but I run synthetic in my cobalt and I only change the oil when the car tells me to. I changed it every 3-5K at first, but with my new job I decided to let it go one time (which I am currently still doing) and see how long the car recommends between changes.
you wanna check it periodically yourself, too. i've had the oil monitor in my truck light up a few days after a fresh oil & filter change because it's programmed to go off about 3000 miles from the last time it was reset. point is: don't just rely on the car to tell you everything... sometimes it's just a canned response.
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Old 02-22-2009, 03:11 PM   #21
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i cant stand that dipstick commercial it makes me want to
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Old 02-22-2009, 03:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blindingillusion View Post
This is horrible of me, but I run synthetic in my cobalt and I only change the oil when the car tells me to. I changed it every 3-5K at first, but with my new job I decided to let it go one time (which I am currently still doing) and see how long the car recommends between changes.

I must say though, when it comes to my 'maro then I will be changing the oil more frequently, and with better quality then I have before. I hear royal purple is good, and good things about mobil1.
thats not horrible of you. thats commendable of you. newer, cleaner motors can go for longer oil change periods due to the fact that they are.... newer and cleaner. I run Royal Purple in all of my vehicles, oil, trans, rear, front diff, etc. for oil filters, I use Wix or a PureOne filter. there's an older thread on here that had a large in depth discussion on motor oils and filters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pondo View Post
I used to work for an engine oil additive company working on proprietary additive packages for leading oil companies. The weakest link is your oil filter and soot when running synthetic oil. Synthetic oils may be a LITTLE better at suspending solids but still marginally better than dino oil which means sludge will still build up in your engine. Increase the oil capacity will dilute the sludge meaning you can go a little longer before reaching the same detrimental effects...

Oil change intervals very depending on your climate, area of use, and driving habits. I've seen engines run for 25,000 miles nonstop 24/7 in the testing bay with synthetic oil and have vertually identical viscosity and lubricating parameters; however, the cylinder walls were still scratched. On analysis, the oil had very high amounts of aluminum and suspended carbon deposits.

I change the oil in my cars with mobile 1 10w30 full syn every 5,000 miles. I drive my cars like I stole them.

I will change the oil in my Camaro after break-in though. From there on, every 5k should do the trick.

I have personally ran all the tests listed in this PDF... http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1971.pdf
Amsoil is listed #1 in all the tests...my personal results varied a bit but mobile 1 and amsoil were neck and neck!
driving my car like I stole it........ I used to say that. but it doesnt hold a candle to the real abuse I put my cars thru. I dont ride them hard, I dont get rough on them from time to time, I punch my car in the stomach and kick it in the nuts, im talking strangle your mother with a fishing line and pay 50 mobsters to each take their turn with her then going at her all at once rough with my cars.


amsoil is a good oil as is M1. the one thing that strikes me as really odd is the lack of an API certified oil in their testing. who's to say that the sample they sent for the testing did not contain higher concentrations of ZDDP which offers a higher level of protection... (oh, wait... thats how amsoil pulls off this stuff.)


I will wholeheartedly agree with you that the oil filter will make or break the engine.


but running a fresh motor for 25,000 miles in a laboratory does not show you any type of comparison to real world events. dirt and debris, water, etc all sneaking into the motor and contaminating the oil will drastically change the results of any test.


the main benefit of synthetics is the additives that come premixed along with them. you do not need additional additives as they come with detergents and other longevity additives mixed in.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Bell040 View Post
As a chemical engineer, I should warn you guys about reading test results from a bias manufacturers website.

It should trouble you that they won in every category... this is total BS.

Do you think they would have shown you results if they came in 4th or 5th?

I have seen some unbias results in a thead here before... do a search.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Draco View Post


There is a reason why every single manufacturer says they score the best among other leading brands. They only do the tests on other brands that they know will score lower then they do.
also, a lot of synthetic manufacturers will compare their oil soley against conventional oils. or, such as in amsoils case they will test an oil that is not API certified that contains a higher concentration of ZDDP to prevent wear during the testing.

now why or why not to use an API certified oil? non api certified oils contain too much phosphorus (in the form of the additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates)). The API has limited the amount of phosphorus because phosphorus shortens the life of the catalytic converter. now, if you are running a dirtbike, or snowmobile, or dont care about the cats and dont need to pass emissions testing, then by all means, use whatever oil you feel comfortable with (Api cert or not). if you do need to have emissions testing, you are safer going with an API certified oil and a more frequent oil change interval.
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Old 02-22-2009, 03:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
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just look at the oil on the dipstick,dirty=change ,clean= dont change.i dont need a computer for that.

my first few oil changes will be very frequent.just to make sure it catches all the flash(if any),i will be using amsoil .
dipstick dirty does not mean it needs to be changed. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. however, changing your oil at correct intervals, you are changing it long before the oil becomes saturated.


another thing for people to keep in mind is that its not only the mileage of the vehicle that should determine oil change frequency. temperatures, cold startups, driving conditions, all have their part to play in oil durability. I change my oil every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever occurs first. mainly due to the fact that the temperatures down here are freezing cold at night and boiling hot during the day which allows for condensation to build inside the crankcase which can lead to contamination and breakdown of the oil.
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Read that link that Spike posted, it'll tell you everything you need to know.
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:32 PM   #24
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Look into adding an Amsoil Dual Remote filter system and using Amsoil 0W-30. You will get to forget changing oil and the savings on gas will pay for it all. The 0W-30 is a 35,000 mile oil and adding the Dual system extends oil life indefinately. Like just about forever!
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:35 PM   #25
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sounds sketchy
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