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Old 05-01-2011, 07:54 PM   #76
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This is so exciting! Months and months of us making suggestions to GTAHVIT. Can you stand it?!
Now that you and speedster will be getting your cars soon I was wondering what to do ... need a fresh thread to keep stirred
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:38 PM   #77
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Formed up ready for concrete...



Still need to plumb the garage drain.
Nice!!!

Plenty of room.....
.... for a drag strip!!


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Old 05-01-2011, 08:41 PM   #78
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Are they sticklers in FL about the permits being in plain view all the time? When we had our house built last spring I never saw a single permit on the site. I was able to change anything at any time as long as it wasn't to late in teh build process.
OH yeah, they have a plans box on site and they are regularly checked by the county inspectors...



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Chris,

Have the perfect house warning present for you.

A video surveillance system, so you can keep watch when away from home....
You don't have to do that!

I was very sorry to hear about the car... Let me know if we can help in any way.




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Of 2012?


Quote:
Originally Posted by BeckyD@RodgersChevrolet View Post
Nice!!!

Plenty of room.....
.... for a drag strip!!


Becky


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Originally Posted by MisterCamaro69 View Post
Now that you and speedster will be getting your cars soon I was wondering what to do ... need a fresh thread to keep stirred
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:50 PM   #79
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Are you going to add #4 rebar before the concrete is placed? hope i am not butting in.
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:53 PM   #80
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Are you going to add #4 rebar before the concrete is placed? hope i am not butting in.
:( Not sure... I don't know of reason why they would go beyond what normal code would call for???

IF you think I should I will... I'm guessing that is something I can do myself...
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:56 PM   #81
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GTAHVIT...

Did you have the option for foam insulation?

Our 3300 sq/ft slab was poured the second week of April last year and we closed the third week of June. It was 100% built with sticks. Not a single pre-fabbed piece came on site other than the cupboards and built in entertainment center since they were built at the cabinet shop and delivered. Everything was stained after it was installed.

Last edited by NavyDood; 05-01-2011 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:06 PM   #82
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:( Not sure... I don't know of reason why they would go beyond what normal code would call for???

IF you think I should I will... I'm guessing that is something I can do myself...

Post tension cable method isn't standard in FL? Or isn't there an issue with the ground staying stable?
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:14 PM   #83
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Its up to you, It help prevent the slab from lifting.

But if you have wire mesh that helps too.

And last a 6 mil plastic waterproof member.

Here you go.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:21 PM   #84
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GTAHVIT...

Did you have the option for foam insulation?

Our 3300 sq/ft slab was poured the second week of April last year and we closed the third week of June. It was 100% built with sticks. Not a single pre-fabbed piece came on site other than the cupboards and built in entertainment center since they were built at the cabinet shop and delivered. Everything was stained after it was installed.
the only thing prefab'd on this house will be the ceiling trusses. Everything else will be built from scratch.

We don't have a foam option but we did go with a celulose insulation. I forget what the actual rating is with the cellulose... I want to say it was close to 30??? total guess.

Quote:
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Post tension cable method isn't standard in FL? Or isn't there an issue with the ground staying stable?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2SSRS View Post
Its up to you, It help prevent the slab from lifting.

But if you have wire mesh that helps too.

And last a 6 mil plastic waterproof member.

Here you go.
Greek to me... LOL As far as I know they will lay down rebar and plastic throughout the foundation... I just wasn't up to speed on the terminology...

I'll be taking pictures daily and I will be sure to ask... but I am 99% positive that they will lay rebar in a grid much like the pic Ofer posted.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:23 PM   #85
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GTAHVIT, As a full time home designer, I will add my 2 cents worth:
a) Move your laundry door to the left as the steps will interfere with your post.
b) Put footings in for your post if you still can
c) although you have 10-6" height in dotted area, the outline of your garage door indicates it may interfere with the car (on the hoist) so that may be a trouble spot with the design. In other words, the garage door will clear the lift but may hit the end of the back of the car, or the garage door may not open completely.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:40 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by Joe in T.O. View Post
GTAHVIT, As a full time home designer, I will add my 2 cents worth:
a) Move your laundry door to the left as the steps will interfere with your post.
b) Put footings in for your post if you still can
c) although you have 10-6" height in dotted area, the outline of your garage door indicates it may interfere with the car (on the hoist) so that may be a trouble spot with the design. In other words, the garage door will clear the lift but may hit the end of the back of the car, or the garage door may not open completely.
Joe in T.O.
thanks for the coments. Tell me if my answers make sense.

There shouldn't be any steps into the house. The garage foundations will be flat all the way to the house with one step up into the door.

By post I'm guessing you mean for the lift.

I'm probably going with a 4 post on casters that I can move from the side of the garage to the center when I have to do work under the car... which is not very often. I could not affort to have 10' walls so I do know that the lift when on one side will likely only be able to park one car, not two. (one underneath and one on top)

I'm still toying with the idea of a 2 post lift dead in the middle of the garage.... but I'm not sure that would be wise use of the 2 car garage space. hence my plan for a 4 post on casters.

If I do install a 2 post, I'll probably have the footers poured then.
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:03 PM   #87
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thanks for the coments. Tell me if my answers make sense.

There shouldn't be any steps into the house. The garage foundations will be flat all the way to the house with one step up into the door.

By post I'm guessing you mean for the lift.

I'm probably going with a 4 post on casters that I can move from the side of the garage to the center when I have to do work under the car... which is not very often. I could not affort to have 10' walls so I do know that the lift when on one side will likely only be able to park one car, not two. (one underneath and one on top)

I'm still toying with the idea of a 2 post lift dead in the middle of the garage.... but I'm not sure that would be wise use of the 2 car garage space. hence my plan for a 4 post on casters.

If I do install a 2 post, I'll probably have the footers poured then.
Yes, the 4 post on casters is a good solution. I would still move the laundry door. Picture yourself walking into the garage from the laundry room and (as it is currently drawn, the post will be almost right in line with the middle of the door way. You can still get by it but it will be a pain.
I probably didn't explain the garage door interference issue that I foresee. When the garage door is open, it is in a horizontal position approximately 7'-6" above the floor. If you are lifting a car up on the lift, you will only be able to lift it to 7'-6" high before it strikes the garage door (unless it is a smaller car). Hopefully this makes sense.
Joe
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:07 PM   #88
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Yes, the 4 post on casters is a good solution. I would still move the laundry door. Picture yourself walking into the garage from the laundry room and (as it is currently drawn, the post will be almost right in line with the middle of the door way. You can still get by it but it will be a pain.
I probably didn't explain the garage door interference issue that I foresee. When the garage door is open, it is in a horizontal position approximately 7'-6" above the floor. If you are lifting a car up on the lift, you will only be able to lift it to 7'-6" high before it strikes the garage door (unless it is a smaller car). Hopefully this makes sense.
Joe
I gotchya... I'm hoping I can move the lift far enough forward that it won't be a problem... I can do some quick math....

If I had to I can just do work with the door down.... but... I see your point...
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:15 PM   #89
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I look forward to the pictures. It looks like a nice subdivision!
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:19 PM   #90
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I look forward to the pictures. It looks like a nice subdivision!
Thanks very much,

Here's the lift I'm thinking about... or one similar.



The posts are 13' 5" by 8' 6" at the top.

The Dimensions of the Trey are 15' 4" by 9' 0"

The garage door would only cut about 1' 8" from the length of the trey. leaving me 13' 8" of length with the door open.

Overall Height: 10' 6"

Camaro Height: 04' 6" (from floor to roofline)

Max Lift Rise Height: 06 '0" (How high I can lift the car measured from the bottom of the tires before I'll hit the roof)

GTAHVIT Height: 05 '9"

Left Over Height: 00' 3"

Considering the car sits about 3" or 4" off the ground and the ramps are 4" tall, I'll only need to raise the lift about. 5' 2" to be able to stand under it.

So I could position the lift to the far right side of the trey and all the way forward and still have enough room to stand under the camaro, open the door to the laundry room, and open the garage door while we work.

Now the Tahoe... might be a liiiiitle bit tighter.

Added the most recent plans for reference
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:21 PM   #91
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To hell with Doc........... Im coming to your house.
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:26 PM   #92
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To hell with Doc........... Im coming to your house.
Just need to figure out how to get the dyno in the one car side..




HOA shouldn't have a problem with that???

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Old 05-01-2011, 11:47 PM   #93
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Just need to figure out how to get the dyno in the one car side..




HOA shouldn't have a problem with that???

Dude. If you got a dyno, I'd be there to 'Scout' our new location right away.
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:50 PM   #94
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Dude. If you got a dyno, I'd be there to 'Scout' our new location right away.
Took me a while to figure out what you meant...
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:53 PM   #95
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Took me a while to figure out what you meant...
Tax deductable dyno pulls..............
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:55 PM   #96
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Tax deductable dyno pulls..............
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:02 AM   #97
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Shit....... With the news and all I didn't get my spark plugs done....
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:51 AM   #98
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Its up to you, It help prevent the slab from lifting.

But if you have wire mesh that helps too.

And last a 6 mil plastic waterproof member.

Here you go.
Down here in Florida most track builders will only use rebar for the footers, no wire mesh for the slab and just plastic over the foundation before pouring the concrete. Depending who the builder is (most will stick with 2500 reg w/ res fiber) when my 1st house was built my builder poured 3500 blend w/ commercial fiber.

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Old 05-02-2011, 07:56 AM   #99
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Very cool here are some pics of my new home with a 3 car garage I am having my garage door guy come in and install all new tracks so I can add a lift in my 3rd car garage so I can have the car on the lift up in the air with the garage open.

I would double check these are the standard garage door tracks most builders here in Central Florida use.

Sean
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:30 AM   #100
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the only thing prefab'd on this house will be the ceiling trusses. Everything else will be built from scratch.

We don't have a foam option but we did go with a celulose insulation. I forget what the actual rating is with the cellulose... I want to say it was close to 30??? total guess.
It looks like a cocoon in my attic with the spray foam. Polyurethane Spray Foam nets you R26 in the walls and R45 in the ceiling. The only way to get a better wall "R" rating is by building the walls with 2x6's. I can go in my attic in the dead heat of a TX summer and it is only around 90°F up there. I don't have a single roof/attic vent or soffet vent. The only vents are the ones for the bath exhaust fans, stove top exhaust fan and the ambient vent for the A/C handler. Our house is so air tight that it needs the A/C handler to vent to ambient to balance the air and get a fresh air exchange.





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