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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 03-01-2009, 09:01 AM   #1
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GM performance part Air-box upgrade thoughts

Just wanted to get some thoughts on the $470 upgrade to the GMPP air-box upgrade. I'd like to get it but the price is very high and I am wondering how much performace, additional mileage, etc it would add. TIA!
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:32 PM   #2
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That was discussed pretty extensively in this thread.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11766
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:55 PM   #3
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Those are the same threads.

Also stock air boxes are usually a cold air intake, they just have a ton of restrictions and a standard filter.
It's all a matter of removing those restrictions and putting in a better filter.
However I think the cold air intake from GM looks pretty darn good when compared to the stock setup.

Sometimes I've seen things put in the way of the air pipes that when removed will increase air flow.
Such as the sound deadener sheet put right in front of the air box on certain GM trucks.
I once pulled one out of the filter and probably doubled the gas mileage.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:49 PM   #4
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Those are the same threads.

Also stock air boxes are usually a cold air intake, they just have a ton of restrictions and a standard filter.
It's all a matter of removing those restrictions and putting in a better filter.
However I think the cold air intake from GM looks pretty darn good when compared to the stock setup.

Sometimes I've seen things put in the way of the air pipes that when removed will increase air flow.
Such as the sound deadener sheet put right in front of the air box on certain GM trucks.
I once pulled one out of the filter and probably doubled the gas mileage.

So if it increase millage, why would GM or anybody else even do it ...
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:14 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by domano 68 View Post
Just wanted to get some thoughts on the $470 upgrade to the GMPP air-box upgrade. I'd like to get it but the price is very high and I am wondering how much performace, additional mileage, etc it would add. TIA!
I'd wait to get a better aftermarket CAI for less money.
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:20 PM   #6
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So if it increase millage, why would GM or anybody else even do it ...
The sound deadener fell off and got sucked into the air box. It sits about an inch in front of the opening and covers a hole into the fender.
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:22 PM   #7
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I live in BX, NY, all my life ive heard "you don't want CAI in NY, whats teh reasoning and is tehre any truth behind this ?
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Old 03-01-2009, 10:13 PM   #8
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I live in BX, NY, all my life ive heard "you don't want CAI in NY, whats teh reasoning and is tehre any truth behind this ?
Why? b/c of the temp? That would be false. Colder the air the denser the charge which = more power. On our sleds (snowmobiles) we even use CAI set-ups to get more power. On the old 2 strokes you had to manually richen them up if it got too cold. But the computers take care of that on the 4 strokers now.
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Old 03-01-2009, 10:17 PM   #9
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I live in BX, NY, all my life ive heard "you don't want CAI in NY, whats teh reasoning and is tehre any truth behind this ?
Only thing I can think of is that if you are stuck in traffic all the time it doesn't do much good for ya if you only drive 25-30mph, lol....
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Old 03-01-2009, 10:27 PM   #10
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If I remember correctly, on older carbureted engines, a heat pipe ran into the intake from the exhaust heat shield to prevent engine stressing. People would flip over the filter can and run the risk of damaging the engine a frosty day
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:13 PM   #11
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I have a question. Is the GMPP intake just a chromed up stock intake with a K&N drop in filler with a non plastic pipe? Is it that the same as just putting a $40 K&N drop in filler without the chrome? That only will give you about 3-4 hp right?
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:25 PM   #12
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The Aluminum pipe between the throttle body and air box has the resonators removed. After that it's all speculation, the air inlet routing could be different for all I know.
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:56 AM   #13
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I will never use a K&N or simular type filter again. Test repeatedly show that they filter less, get dirty faster, clog faster, than OEM parts.
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:07 AM   #14
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I will never use a K&N or simular type filter again. Test repeatedly show that they filter less, get dirty faster, clog faster, than OEM parts.
Which tests might those be?

Just curious for some sources, I've never heard of nor had any problems with these types of filters.
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Old 03-02-2009, 02:29 PM   #15
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Which tests might those be?

Just curious for some sources, I've never heard of nor had any problems with these types of filters.
+1 because that is total nonsense.
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:03 PM   #16
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From what it looks to me, is that that system introduces no more colder air than the OEM style. It looks like the lid is just a chromed OEM lid with the GMPP logo molded on it. What is definately nice is the polished aluminum intake tube and I thought I remembered the dry filter. Those resonators, I guess, are what the restrictions are on the OEM intake set-up, because I could swear someone, in a related thread of mine some time ago, posted the lower intake box was pretty much open behind the driver's side headlight. That being the case, the only thing I would like more is getting a better idea of what the OEM air box is like. To me, the price is pretty expensive and I'd rather save the money and install it myself. There are going to be aftermarket intakes that will probably have an open element air filter below and behind that headlight that may introduce more colder air (at the risk of more water too...). I can't see that, this side of an actual ram air set-up, that an aftermarket system is going to net a bigger gain than GMPP's kit.

We'll just have to wait and see
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:07 PM   #17
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Which tests might those be?

Just curious for some sources, I've never heard of nor had any problems with these types of filters.
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+1 because that is total nonsense.
Trust me Dan it is not nonsense and you can find many many ANSI based independant tests that prove it. Here is one link with a few other references included keep in moind the data though because this one primarily is about trucks. The same principles apply. The bottom line is that the filter is not the biggest resrtiction in the system and the factory filters ofen have much more surface area than a cone type.

http://members.cox.net/td-eoc/INDUCT...K%20PRIMER.doc
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:07 PM   #18
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I think the GMPP filter is a metal/paper filament with no oil.

I've only heard good things about oil filaments cause the dirt will stick to oil better, and nobody brought up cones. It should be a big square filter.
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Old 03-03-2009, 05:13 AM   #19
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The gauze covered with oil doesn't work better. The pores in the material are larger. The particulates your filtering are stuck on the filter media due to velocity impengment not because of oil. The bottom line is that meda for media paper filter pick more crap out of the air. They genearlly have more surface area (because they need it to flow as well). Just looking at the curves of filtering ability over time tells you that the oil/gauze type media clogs more quickly.

If you do some searching around you can also find some oil sampling to go with thses type of tests. The oil/gauze type filters always show higher silica levels than paper filters. This basically means that more particles are passing through the filter and ending up in your oil.
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:30 AM   #20
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If I remember correctly, on older carbureted engines, a heat pipe ran into the intake from the exhaust heat shield to prevent engine stressing. People would flip over the filter can and run the risk of damaging the engine a frosty day
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Old 03-16-2009, 02:19 PM   #21
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How often do you look at old cars/trucks with original air filter housings?
I know they run hot air into the intake before the filter on older vehicles, I just don't remember the exact reason for it.
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:12 PM   #22
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you need to investigate before you call bs.



they did run a "heat tube" to the intake.


reason being? carburetor icing.


the extra heat pumpin thru the carb kept the needles from icing over
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:46 PM   #23
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It has nothing to do with the temperature..."they" say not to use CAI in NY or anywhere else where it rains a lot. This is because most CAI intakes put the filter near the underside of the car and if you drive through a deep enough puddle you will suck water into your engine.

Nowadays most CAI include a safety bypass valve that will open when the filter gets clogged.

I actually nearly hydrolocked my engine on my old Honda when I drove through a massive water flow. It stalled my engine, but luckily the water never made it to the intake.
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Old 11-29-2009, 07:39 PM   #24
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K @ N makes a nylon porus cover to put over their air filters for that problem (water) used extensively on power boats...find one that fits your filter on the K&N website!
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