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Old 03-12-2012, 09:07 PM   #1
ecko04
 
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Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 318
BlkGenius Black LFX

Well, it seems this will be the only way I can keep up with the ongoing changes i'm making to it.

Completed:

12/23/11
  • Purchased 12' Camaro LS "Straight cash homie" *in my Randy Moss voice*



1/??/12
  • 20% tint added all around, blacked out Chevy logos, blacked out tail lights
  • Hardwired Beltronics 995
  • Added GM PDIM

2/??/12
  • Changed front & rear speakers. Polk DXi 6.5" components and Polk DXi 6x9
  • Added LT fog lights with Xenon White bulbs

3/??/12
  • Swapped halogen head lights to 5000K HID's (Previously had 6000K but they were a little too blue for my liking. It's probably due to the halogen housing)

3/15/12
  • Installed Kicker "Hideaway" 11HS8 Sub (8" 150w RMS)
All wiring has been done to my liking. I have OCD when it comes to wiring. Everything needs to be taped, cut to length and wire loomed where necessary. Also, signal wires and power wires need to be ran on opposite sides of the vehicle. Sorry, MECP best practices runs through my veins.








  • Pulled off acrylic "black out" tail light covers. They were a little too dark for my liking. Instead I tinted my tails.
  • I had a little free time so I figured i'd install my Injen Intake (the flash really shows the dust). I guess i'll add detailing to my "To Do" list.

3/28/12
  • Removed Kicker Hideaway
  • Installed PAC AA-GM44
  • Installed Subthump Factory Amp Mount
  • Installed JL XD 400/4




  • Completed 1st oil change. (Mobil 1 5w30 Extended Performance)

Currently ordered/shipped:
  • Custom stealth sub box and amp rack

  • Kicker ZX 750.1

  • Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm
  • Clazzio Leather seat covers (ordered)

Currently in waiting:
  • Wheels/Tires
  • Backup Camera
  • Headlamp Retrofit with projectors
  • Detailing
  • Exhaust & High-Flow Cats (Maybe...i'm getting too old for unnecessary noise)
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'12 Volkswagen Jetta SE
'12 Chevrolet Camaro
'11 Harley Fat Bob
'11 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L
'05 Mercedes E500 W211
'01 BMW 328xi
'89 Chevrolet Suburban

Last edited by ecko04; 03-29-2012 at 01:45 AM. Reason: Fixed grammatical & formatting errors
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:58 PM   #2
MIT'13
 
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nice! post some pics of your new lights
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Old 03-15-2012, 12:39 PM   #3
ecko04
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIT'13 View Post
nice! post some pics of your new lights
I'll snap some pics. Nothing fancy, just 5000K HID's in stock halogen housing. A major downgrade from what i'm accustomed to but i'll solve that with a retrofit later. I found the 6000K a little too blue for my liking in the halogen housing.
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'12 Volkswagen Jetta SE
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'11 Harley Fat Bob
'11 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L
'05 Mercedes E500 W211
'01 BMW 328xi
'89 Chevrolet Suburban
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:15 PM   #4
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updated
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'12 Volkswagen Jetta SE
'12 Chevrolet Camaro
'11 Harley Fat Bob
'11 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L
'05 Mercedes E500 W211
'01 BMW 328xi
'89 Chevrolet Suburban
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:35 PM   #5
ecko04
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIT'13 View Post
nice! post some pics of your new lights
Nothing major



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In My Garage

'12 Volkswagen Jetta SE
'12 Chevrolet Camaro
'11 Harley Fat Bob
'11 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L
'05 Mercedes E500 W211
'01 BMW 328xi
'89 Chevrolet Suburban
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:16 PM   #6
ecko04
 
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Updated
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In My Garage

'12 Volkswagen Jetta SE
'12 Chevrolet Camaro
'11 Harley Fat Bob
'11 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L
'05 Mercedes E500 W211
'01 BMW 328xi
'89 Chevrolet Suburban
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Old 04-04-2012, 01:09 PM   #7
ecko04
 
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It seems like Subthump has all the owners of the BA system covered but as for the rest of us, they left us high and dry. In fact, I reached out via PM and email a few times to Subthump while I was organizing my thoughts on a system and the only response I received was in regards to mounting an amp behind their box, but I digress. They seem to be well loved here, but not so much in my book.

In any case, here's what I wanted:
  • Retain stock HU
  • Retain majority of trunk space
  • Clean look
  • Nice bass
  • Nice highs & mids

With those things in mind I decided I would go with the following system components
  • Polk DXi 6x9s
  • Polk DXi 6.5 Components
  • Kicker 11ZX750.1 (RMS 925w @ 2ohms)
  • JL XD 400/4
  • Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10"
  • Custom drivers side 10" sub box (.7 cu/ft)
  • Subthump Factory Amp Mount (I didn't have a factory amp but I used it to mount the JL in the factory location)
  • PAC AA-GM44
  • Installbay 4-channel Speed Wire
  • x2 Kicker DB1448 (Distribution Blocks)
  • Kicker ZCK4 (4 Gauge Amp Kit) used for mono block
  • Kicker ZCK84 (8 gauge amp kit) used for 4 channel
  • Kicker XI46 (4-channel shielded RCA's)
  • Kicker XI24 (2-channel shielded RCA's)

Install your speakers and your rear speakers. This has been covered in great detail. If you need a little guide, see the attached PDF.

I don't have pics of this part but in order to use the PAC AA-GM44 for a 4 channel, you need to modify the harness a little bit.

You cut the harness in the middle. Take the speaker wires from the car side and wire them into speed wire. The radio side you wire into the AA-GM44. Go ahead and turn the levels all the way up on the AA-GM44 (this will keep you from having the remove the radio again). Go ahead and wire your AA-GM44 to 12v constant and accessory while you're doing the wiring. You won't find a switched power source behind the radio so don't worry about the remote wire in the speed wire for now. Plug in your 4 channel RCA's and run them to the back of the car.

Now grab a remote wire from one of your amp kits. What you want to do, while the center console is still apart since you needed to take it apart to remove the radio, go ahead and grab your remote from the cig socket. The wire color will either be red or green (most likely green). However, when in doubt, use your DMM (digital multi-meter). The last thing you want is to put everything together just to remove everything again. Now, run your remote along side your RCA's.

Take your amp and mount it on the Sub Thump bracket. Now you'll need a 12mm bolt to secure it to the factory location but you'll have some time to do that as this will be one of the last things you do.

In the spare tire well you'll notice a factory ground point (i.e. you don't HAVE to use the battery). Run your ground from that point into your distribution block. You then take a 8 awg and run it from the distribution block to your 4-channel amp (make sure your fuse is in-line). Next you'll take a 4 awg and run it from the distribution block to your mono amp (make sure your fuse is in-line). Next you'll be the exact same thing with the other distribution block for power, which you will grab from the battery.

Now you have almost all your wires ran.

Next, you'll take your mono block amp and make it look nice and pretty. What I did was drill a hole in the back of the amp rack to run all my wires. I used spacers to "float" the amp. Go ahead and splice the remote wire, you'll need one going to the mono and another going to the 4-channel. Understand by powering the amps using switched accessory, you will lose some functions. For example, the door chimes when you mistakenly leave your lights on and the ability to play music without your key in the ignition. Now, you can use DC offset for amp turn-on but DC offset isn't foolproof and doesn't work with all speakers and amps.

I used 10 awg wire for subwoofer speaker wire. I took the 2-channel RCA's and plugged them into the input of the mono block amp. You might ask why. Well because i'm using the pre-out from the 4-channel as an input to the mono block. The reason for this is that it eliminates the need for a line-output converter (LOC).

Next go on over to the side where the 4-channel will mount and wire in your speed wire, RCA's, power, etc. Once again, do not mount the amp as you'll need to adjust your gains prior to installing the sub box.

Well that's about it. Everything is is cake if you made it this far. Oh and don't forget to tape and wire loom everything. Remember, we like the factory look.

Now for pics.

*Notes*

My Dayton Audio sub was backordered so to hold me over I put in my friend's Polk DXi 10" DVC, which is an amazing sub but I burned it out while testing its limits. It is rated at 250w RMS, well I pushed double that to it and burned a voice coil. I already ordered a replacement for her.

I picked up a Kicker CVR, which I am accustomed to and while it's loud, I don't think it sounds as good as the Polk. I'll only be using it for a few days though. Then again the Polk won't sound anywhere near as good as the Dayton either. To each his/her own though. If you want it loud there are subs for that. If you want better sound quality, there are also subs for that. The days of wanting people to hear me before they saw me are over.















Then I blew a coil on the sub so I took a little break.






Ok time to replace the sub.







Yes, it is a lot of work but it's worth it to achieve amazing sound. Luckily for me, i've done this so many times that it's pretty simple. I got most of it done between 7am and 11am because I had a meeting at 11:30am. After the meeting I finished up.

Changed some things













In comparison to a Kicker CVR





In the new box









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In My Garage

'12 Volkswagen Jetta SE
'12 Chevrolet Camaro
'11 Harley Fat Bob
'11 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L
'05 Mercedes E500 W211
'01 BMW 328xi
'89 Chevrolet Suburban

Last edited by ecko04; 04-24-2012 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:24 PM   #8
Taintedveins
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How good was the hide away sub? Did it manage to slide under the seat?
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:47 PM   #9
pierre777
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Looking good, any pics of the car?
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:42 AM   #10
black.
 
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nice setup
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:13 PM   #11
ecko04
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taintedveins View Post
How good was the hide away sub? Did it manage to slide under the seat?
Hideaway sucked...which is why it was removed. It's a waste of $249 or whatever it costs. It didn't fit completely underneath the seat.
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In My Garage

'12 Volkswagen Jetta SE
'12 Chevrolet Camaro
'11 Harley Fat Bob
'11 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L
'05 Mercedes E500 W211
'01 BMW 328xi
'89 Chevrolet Suburban
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:26 PM   #12
ecko04
 
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I would've used Fatmat, which is a little thinner than Dynamat but I get a really good deal on 20 sq/ft of Dynamat and I didn't have to wait for it to be delivered. Today was a beautiful day so I grabbed a 12 sq/ft kit I had for a few years and a 20 sq/ft kit and let the fun times begin.

In my 07 Scion tC, I used Fatmat throughout the entire vehicle (i.e. pulling out the seats & carpet) and applying from the firewall back. I don't believe i'll be going to that extreme. Then again, i'll never say never.

It wasn't really necessary for a 10" sub pushing 1000 watts in a sealed enclosure but it's better to just go ahead and do it.
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In My Garage

'12 Volkswagen Jetta SE
'12 Chevrolet Camaro
'11 Harley Fat Bob
'11 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L
'05 Mercedes E500 W211
'01 BMW 328xi
'89 Chevrolet Suburban
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:21 PM   #13
ecko04
 
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So far i've tried 4 different 10" subs:

Kicker CVR (dual 2 ohm voice coils)
Polk Audio DXi 104 (dual 4 ohm voice coils)
Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4
Infinity Kappa 100.9w SSI

By far the best sounding was the Dayton. Kicker was the loudest. The best dollar-for-dollar value was the Polk and the Infinity (which is also the best looking) ranked just behind the Dayton. If I were on a strict budget, I would go with the Polk. Wired @ 8 ohms, the Polk sounds fantastic with this setup.

This is in a sealed enclosure with .8 ft^3 air space, light polyfill and powered by a Kicker ZX750.1 rated @ 1000 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. The majority of my music is hip-hop, R&B, jazz & rap.













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In My Garage

'12 Volkswagen Jetta SE
'12 Chevrolet Camaro
'11 Harley Fat Bob
'11 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L
'05 Mercedes E500 W211
'01 BMW 328xi
'89 Chevrolet Suburban
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:28 PM   #14
ecko04
 
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'12 Volkswagen Jetta SE
'12 Chevrolet Camaro
'11 Harley Fat Bob
'11 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L
'05 Mercedes E500 W211
'01 BMW 328xi
'89 Chevrolet Suburban
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