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Old 06-01-2011, 09:39 PM   #101
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Many people wouldn't even worry about the miss I have. It's not a killer. Again, the car runs great but just has a miss in it. I'll get to work on it tomorrow.

Oh,

I just got back from Starbucks here to the office. (end of month all nighter) No dying so maybe the seafoam is working???

I can hope.
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:52 AM   #102
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having a miss puts more stress on all the other moving parts of the engine its not something to live with lol
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:11 PM   #103
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having a miss puts more stress on all the other moving parts of the engine its not something to live with lol
Or is it???

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150545
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:15 PM   #104
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hmmmmm i guess mine doesnt have a cam in it.....smooth as a babys bottom
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:41 PM   #105
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hmmmmm i guess mine doesnt have a cam in it.....smooth as a babys bottom
I want mine smooth.
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:42 PM   #106
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I want mine smooth.
lol....the tach kinda looks like a miss, but the sound is undeniable that is a mis
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:43 PM   #107
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the tach does move but not from 400 to 800 like it does on yours....which is the computer reving the engine to keep it in balance
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:30 PM   #108
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How is it introduced?
They have various fittings and nozzles that will work depending on which system you are checking. It isn't real complicated...unplug a vacuum hose...stick the nozzle in it and fill it full of smoke.....watch for leaks.

Repeat across all systems until you find your leak. All this looking at plugs nonsense is a wild goose chase. Reading plugs is 1980s and prior technology. The only thing a plug is going to show you is if something catastrophic has happened.

I would start with your fuel trims and O2 readings to see if you even have an air leak first. If your trims are adding more fuel than normal then you probably have some kind of an air leak.

Once you know you have an air leak..perform a visual inspection, if nothing is off kilter then hit it with smoke and if it is there then it will be found.

If your fuel trims look fine then I'd consider maybe valvetrain or tune.

After that.....I'd turn the radio up or take it to a pro.
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:44 PM   #109
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They have various fittings and nozzles that will work depending on which system you are checking. It isn't real complicated...unplug a vacuum hose...stick the nozzle in it and fill it full of smoke.....watch for leaks.

Repeat across all systems until you find your leak. All this looking at plugs nonsense is a wild goose chase. Reading plugs is 1980s and prior technology. The only thing a plug is going to show you is if something catastrophic has happened.

I would start with your fuel trims and O2 readings to see if you even have an air leak first. If your trims are adding more fuel than normal then you probably have some kind of an air leak.

Once you know you have an air leak..perform a visual inspection, if nothing is off kilter then hit it with smoke and if it is there then it will be found.

If your fuel trims look fine then I'd consider maybe valvetrain or tune.

After that.....I'd turn the radio up or take it to a pro.
I'm going to trust that Mike at Vengeance knows what he's doing. He looked at the fuel trims. I remember him talking about the stuff he was doing. Plus the idle air and yada yada. He said it all looked normal. And he set it accordingly. I am assuming he checked it all. Can you tune it without checking?

I"m going to go home and start checking stuff.

If it's strong enough to make the engine die, shouldn't it be idling even rougher?
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:23 PM   #110
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I'm going to trust that Mike at Vengeance knows what he's doing. He looked at the fuel trims. I remember him talking about the stuff he was doing. Plus the idle air and yada yada. He said it all looked normal. And he set it accordingly. I am assuming he checked it all. Can you tune it without checking?

I"m going to go home and start checking stuff.

If it's strong enough to make the engine die, shouldn't it be idling even rougher?
If you trust him and he said your fuel trims were right then why are you chasing an air leak? Unmetered air will show in the fuel trims. Maybe your issues is mechanical...did you have a CAM installed? Maybe a tight valve or something?

I think I'd just take it to one of the guys who offered help...especially if you don't have the tools to diagnose....ie scan tool and/or smoke machine etc.
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:26 PM   #111
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Could it be a leak in the valves ?
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:49 PM   #112
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I'm not sure if its really a vacuum leak, we put a blower on a while back and the lower holes for the injectors on the pasenger side were machined a little to big. There was an audible hissing noise under the engine bay and a little squirt of brake cleaner confirmed the problem. But it idled very smooth, and you couldnt tell anything while driving. But looking at fuel trims and throttle percentage at idle, I could definately see a problem.

Does it drive smooth cruising at lower RPMs or is it just at idle? You've had the blower on for a while I thought, has it always done it?
A smoke machine would help find a vacuum leak, but I've always just used a little brake cleaner. They do come in handy for finding EVAP leaks too, but thats another story
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:47 PM   #113
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If you trust him and he said your fuel trims were right then why are you chasing an air leak? Unmetered air will show in the fuel trims. Maybe your issues is mechanical...did you have a CAM installed? Maybe a tight valve or something?

I think I'd just take it to one of the guys who offered help...especially if you don't have the tools to diagnose....ie scan tool and/or smoke machine etc.
Well, since I left my scan tool with Vengeance, I can't log it.

But, since Mike said it was an air leak I guess he saw something in the trims that suggested to him that it was. I"m searching for air becasue that's what he said it was.

I stopped the spark search. So I don't know. But just now I just sprayed starting fluid all over the engine in any place that a leak would be. All around the manifold, air tube, throttle body, brake booster, all hoses... I pinched off hoses pulled them and plugged them. If it's a leak, it's on the inside. And I know better than that. It only started when I put the blower on and before I put any boost on it.

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Could it be a leak in the valves ?
Nope. That's not even possible because that would suck.

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I'm not sure if its really a vacuum leak, we put a blower on a while back and the lower holes for the injectors on the pasenger side were machined a little to big. There was an audible hissing noise under the engine bay and a little squirt of brake cleaner confirmed the problem. But it idled very smooth, and you couldnt tell anything while driving. But looking at fuel trims and throttle percentage at idle, I could definately see a problem.

Does it drive smooth cruising at lower RPMs or is it just at idle? You've had the blower on for a while I thought, has it always done it?
A smoke machine would help find a vacuum leak, but I've always just used a little brake cleaner. They do come in handy for finding EVAP leaks too, but thats another story
The miss is pretty small. If the car hadn't died a few times I wouldn't even worry about it anymore. Small enough to not register?

I've had the blower on for about 4 months now. Drives great, even at low rpm. Just will die and kinda lunge at barely any throttle after having tapped on the throttle.

I installed my catch can and breather just for the hell of it.
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:42 PM   #114
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im telling you man check your lifters.....or do a compression test just so you know its not mech and not chasing ghosts
I wonder if I can rent a smoke machine. Saw some youtube vids. OMG, how easy is that?

Also, I wonder if the smoke residue is harmful to the blower?
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:43 PM   #115
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I wonder if I can rent a smoke machine. Saw some youtube vids. OMG, how easy is that?

Also, I wonder if the smoke residue is harmful to the blower?
lol if its good for the cats im sure it will be fine for the blower
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Old 06-03-2011, 03:30 PM   #116
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lol if its good for the cats im sure it will be fine for the blower
I can't find a smoke machine for rental.

And they want 700.00 to 900.00 to buy one. Obviously out of the question.

I'm gonna have to take it to let some shop monkey do it whilst being charged by the hour full mechanic rates.




Imma just put some propane all over it first.
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Old 06-03-2011, 03:33 PM   #117
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I can't find a smoke machine for rental.

And they want 700.00 to 900.00 to buy one. Obviously out of the question.

I'm gonna have to take it to let some shop monkey do it whilst being charged by the hour full mechanic rates.




Imma just put some propane all over it first.
damn that rediculous id be too........LMAO at the propane thing
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Old 06-03-2011, 03:37 PM   #118
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damn that rediculous id be too........LMAO at the propane thing
No, for real. Propane torche is safe and already a gas and works the same as break cleaner or starting fluid. I'll try it. The starting fluid just didnt' aerosol like it used to and the leak I'm looking for is small so already in vapor form it should be better.
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Old 06-03-2011, 03:42 PM   #119
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No, for real. Propane torche is safe and already a gas and works the same as break cleaner or starting fluid. I'll try it. The starting fluid just didnt' aerosol like it used to and the leak I'm looking for is small so already in vapor form it should be better.
good improvision......i thought you were going to propane the tech and take his smoker..........at least thats my idea
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Old 06-03-2011, 03:46 PM   #120
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good improvision......i thought you were going to propane the tech and take his smoker..........at least thats my idea


Well, I may also similate a smoke machine and just listen for air? With the car off it would be easier to hear. Plug the intake and force compressed air into the vacuum hose and listen.
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Old 06-03-2011, 03:48 PM   #121
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Well, I may also similate a smoke machine and just listen for air? With the car off it would be easier to hear. Plug the intake and force compressed air into the vacuum hose and listen.
lol how are you going to hear over the compressed air then? car isnt that loud is it? any ticking?
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Old 06-03-2011, 04:11 PM   #122
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lol how are you going to hear over the compressed air then? car isnt that loud is it? any ticking?
Maybe with the motor off and shooting the air into the brake booster hose it may produce a hissing that is disticnt enough to pinpoint. I'll just have to be carefull not to pressurize too much. But I can turn down my compressor to only allow 10 psi out.

Ya,,,,,, no,,,,,,
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Old 06-03-2011, 04:24 PM   #123
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I wouldn't do that. I've never heard of that as a diagnostic method. If you suspect a vacuum leak there are several methods besides the smoke machine. You can wave a small propane torch (no flame) around everything and watch for an rpm change. When you wave propane past a vacuum leak, the rpm will usually go up.

You can also use a mechanics stethescope poking around suspicious areas. You will hear a distinct hissing sound near any leak.

You really need a scanner though to make sure things like the MAF and O2s are reading correctly. Do you have anyone nearby you could swap MAF sensors with? Or possibly put the OE airbox back on just to see if the MAF position is affecting it.

Leaking valves can also give an erratic idle. Wouldn't hurt to have a leakdown test done just to make sure all the valves are sealing. Or just put a vacuum guage on it and make sure it has steady vacuum at idle.
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Old 06-03-2011, 04:44 PM   #124
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I wouldn't do that. I've never heard of that as a diagnostic method. If you suspect a vacuum leak there are several methods besides the smoke machine. You can wave a small propane torch (no flame) around everything and watch for an rpm change. When you wave propane past a vacuum leak, the rpm will usually go up.

You can also use a mechanics stethescope poking around suspicious areas. You will hear a distinct hissing sound near any leak.

You really need a scanner though to make sure things like the MAF and O2s are reading correctly. Do you have anyone nearby you could swap MAF sensors with? Or possibly put the OE airbox back on just to see if the MAF position is affecting it.

Leaking valves can also give an erratic idle. Wouldn't hurt to have a leakdown test done just to make sure all the valves are sealing. Or just put a vacuum guage on it and make sure it has steady vacuum at idle.
Well, I confirmed with Mike at Vengeance that the fuel trims indeed showed a vacuum leak. Which is why he did a quick search for one.

Much like a smoke test, the nozzle will be hooked to the end of the brake booster line, I can set my compressor for 10 psi output and leave it if I have to and if that doesn't work, the brake booster line is long enough for me to get around the engine bay as I blow air into the line. I can light a cigeratte OR some other form of smoking object and put it up to all of the areas that would leak.

No? You don't think it could work?

I'm gonna do the propane test too, but I think the other could work just fine. It's the same priciple as the smoke, but without the smoke.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:44 PM   #125
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Ok. Did some things tonight.

First, I used propane AND starter fluid in abundance. Sprayed everything imagineable. Nothing. Of course, I also took a line loose and sprayed BOTH straight into the lines and nothing. Supercharger maybe? At any rate, the leak did not make it's self known.

Finished the lines on my catch can. Drove the the store and the car died twice.

I did a few interesting things.

Pressurized the intake system. Much like a smoke test where the system is pressurized with smoke and you can see smoke coming from a leak, I pressurized it with regular air and tried to use smoke from a cigarette to find an air leak. Was hard to get the cigarette in most places so I turned up the air to allow for 20 PSI to go in. I heard and found a leak at the place noted in the picture below where the red 'x' indicates. It's behind those coolant and heater lines where the vacuum line ends and hooks down right next to the fuel line. Same type of connection. I heard the air and so I felt down there and felt the air too. Didn't hear it anywhere else.

So my question is what is that line for? What is that solenoid looking thing the yellow arrow is pointing to? The vacuum line comes out of the blower and goes into the bottom of that solenoid thing and out of the top come that line to where it connects down by the fuel line where it's leaking air.

HOWEVER. I plugged that line off at the solenoid thing and the car did NOT improve.

Does this tell us anything?

Oh, ya. When the system pressurized fully to about 20 psi, that solenoid thing started humming pretty good.

So? Am I an idiot?

Is this the EGR valve?


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