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Old 06-21-2011, 08:35 AM   #26
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It's just good practice for any shops that lower vehicles. Shops that just cycle cars in and out and focus on quantity instead of quality will never take the time to do it. This is just one of the things that separates quality shops like Raymonds with your typical in-and-out alignment shop...
Funny! This is the same shigady I try telling the people who make decisions for the Indiana State Police with the quotas we now have. Once we start shooting for numbers (tickets or contacts) over quality arrest and traffic enforcement, we become nothing more than some Podunk P.D. in Backwash USA. Having an officers vacation draw, shift selection and whether or not he gets to drive a new Charger, Mustang or unmarked vehicle over a standard issue Crown Vic can taint a mans judgment to lower his standards and way of thinking. Oh how I digress! Sorry for the rant!

But back on topic, I do understand what you're saying. Funny how this way of thinking can transcend over into other areas. Damn shame!
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:00 AM   #27
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went to get my car timed an aligned yesterday. They had the car up timed the front bushing, started on the rears, then came to me and said they were going to charge an extra 100 because my car was way out of specs. This would be $250 for an alignment! So they stopped as I refused to pay and gave me my car back with damage on all four rims...basterds. Going to another shop today, hope these guys dont try to rip me off either
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:25 PM   #28
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so it all worked out. The shop yesterday timed my front bushings, not sure if they did the rears. Got that done for free because of the incident, went to another shop and got the car aligned and I can tell the difference since getting the bushings reclocked, or atleast the fronts were done for sure. When going over bumps on the highway, I dont have that floating or springing feeling anymore. Thanks for this thread, it literally helped out alot and made my ride so much better!
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Old 06-21-2011, 03:22 PM   #29
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so it all worked out. The shop yesterday timed my front bushings, not sure if they did the rears. Got that done for free because of the incident, went to another shop and got the car aligned and I can tell the difference since getting the bushings re clocked, or at least the fronts were done for sure. When going over bumps on the highway, I don't have that floating or springing feeling anymore. Thanks for this thread, it literally helped out allot and made my ride so much better!
What about the messed up wheels you mentioned. There is no way I'd let or allow shop to get away with that sort of carelessness. That's one thing I like about Bruce, he drives what I drive, JusticePete drives what we drive. Always tell people when you do business, look at what the workers are driving. You can tell if they take pride in their work by what they drive and own. Still, I wouldn't have some jacked up wheel due their negligence!
Also who ever did the work, I'd ask them if they did in fact time the rears, that's like getting a front end alignment but not having the rear wheels aligned as well. Just saying, you want it right and all of it to work in unison.
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:56 PM   #30
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Thanks for this thread, it literally helped out alot and made my ride so much better!
No problem, glad to hear you got things worked out. Enjoy your re-clocked suspension!
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:31 AM   #31
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So lets say you lower the car and have the bushings reclocked then down the road you add new suspension parts with new bushings does the car need to be reclocked every time you take suspension parts off!
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:43 AM   #32
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So lets say you lower the car and have the bushings reclocked then down the road you add new suspension parts with new bushings does the car need to be reclocked every time you take suspension parts off!
No, just when you change the ride hieght.But any time you have the suspension a part you should have the alignment checked.
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:57 AM   #33
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Ok so can timing the bushings be done on race ramps front then rear or does vehicle have to be level all the way front to back?
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:16 PM   #34
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Race Ramps will work if that's all you have.

We have put together a detailed PDF that you can print out that covers thie issue of bushing Timing. With this you can bring it with you to a shop and have them do it on the alignment rack.
Pedders Camaro/G8 Bushing Timing Tech Sheet

Also this is good for someone that isn't familiar with the Camaro during an alignment.
Pedders Camaro/G8 Alignment Tech Sheet
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Old 10-15-2011, 07:07 AM   #35
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I had shop do it allignment and reclock 108 bucks car drives better than it ever has and new cradle and diff bushings made a huge difference!
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:09 PM   #36
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Good info! Is this a sticky yet?
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:40 AM   #37
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So lets say you lower the car and have the bushings reclocked then down the road you add new suspension parts with new bushings does the car need to be reclocked every time you take suspension parts off!
Just make sure that you tighten the suspension bolts with the car at static ride height and you will be good. This can be done on ramps. Ultimately you just want to make sure that when the car is at ride height your bushings are not in a pre-loaded state. If, for instance, you installed a set of trailing arms, tightened the mounting bolts with the wheels hanging then set the car back down, that bushing would be be pre-loaded...

To a certain extent, bushing pre-load is mainly an OE bushing problem. In factory bushings the inner steel sleeve of the bushing is bonded to the rubber bushing itself. This creates a certain amount of bind anytime the suspension moves up or down. BMR bushings are all designed with floating inner sleeves that are lubricated through channels designed into our bushings. A few pumps with a grease gun and the sleeve rotates bind-free. These channels also run outward to the thrust surface of the bushing to keep these areas lubed as well. With no bind in the bushing, the bolts can be tightened with the suspension in any position.

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Old 10-25-2011, 12:26 PM   #38
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So lets say you lower the car and have the bushings reclocked then down the road you add new suspension parts with new bushings does the car need to be reclocked every time you take suspension parts off!
The bushes need only be re-timed when the ride height is changed. If you replace an OE rubber bush with any aftermarket bush the ferule will not be bonded to the bush. When the ferule can turn independently from the bush no timing is required.
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:43 PM   #39
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I just did alot of suspension work to my car like cradle bushing, differential, radius rod, sway bars, trailing arms, toe rods... But i still have stock shocks and springs... Do i have to time my bushings also or it just for lowered vehicles???
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Old 10-25-2011, 04:35 PM   #40
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I just did alot of suspension work to my car like cradle bushing, differential, radius rod, sway bars, trailing arms, toe rods... But i still have stock shocks and springs... Do i have to time my bushings also or it just for lowered vehicles???
It sounds like you replaced almost every component that had rubber bushings, except the rear shocks. Just make sure that you tighten the rear lower shock mount while the car is at ride height and you will be fine. Whether the car is lowered or at stock height, if it still has rubber bushings, it is important to tighten the bolts with the vehicles weight resting on the suspension. In other words, don't tighten any of the bolts with the suspension hanging.
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Old 10-25-2011, 04:55 PM   #41
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Question

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It sounds like you replaced almost every component that had rubber bushings, except the rear shocks. Just make sure that you tighten the rear lower shock mount while the car is at ride height and you will be fine. Whether the car is lowered or at stock height, if it still has rubber bushings, it is important to tighten the bolts with the vehicles weight resting on the suspension. In other words, don't tighten any of the bolts with the suspension hanging.
I torqed everything to specs except for lower A arms and lower shock bolt when the cradle was still off the car. When cradle was back on and sitting with all the weight of the car on and on the floor, i torqued the lower A arms and lower shock bolts to specs. Am i ok or what should i do?
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:02 PM   #42
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I torqed everything to specs except for lower A arms and lower shock bolt when the cradle was still off the car. When cradle was back on and sitting with all the weight of the car on and on the floor, i torqued the lower A arms and lower shock bolts to specs. Am i ok or what should i do?
Drive it.
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:07 PM   #43
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Drive it.
LOL. I guess its good Thankz
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:50 AM   #44
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If anybody wants to download the re-clocking procedure along with torque values and images, we now have them bundled with our lowering spring installation instructions HERE. Just click and print!

Also, if anybody has any further questions about the re-clocking procedure, feel free to post on this thread.
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:01 PM   #45
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I can't say enough about performing this procedure after installing lowering springs. My car had the same issue as others after installing the lowering springs (bouncy). I brought my car back to the original installer with the bush timing instructions from this forum.
He timed the bushings and realigned, no more bouncy feeling. Just a firmer better corning ride, as it should be.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:31 PM   #46
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If anybody wants to download the re-clocking procedure along with torque values and images, we now have them bundled with our lowering spring installation instructions HERE. Just click and print!

Also, if anybody has any further questions about the re-clocking procedure, feel free to post on this thread.
Why is the V6 Base and V6 RS different?
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:35 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Info@PeddersUSA.com View Post
Race Ramps will work if that's all you have.

We have put together a detailed PDF that you can print out that covers thie issue of bushing Timing. With this you can bring it with you to a shop and have them do it on the alignment rack.
Pedders Camaro/G8 Bushing Timing Tech Sheet

Also this is good for someone that isn't familiar with the Camaro during an alignment.
Pedders Camaro/G8 Alignment Tech Sheet
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Why is the V6 Base and V6 RS different?
There is no difference in the Base, RS, or SS when it comes to this.
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:54 PM   #48
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Ok quick question guys, and I hope someone can answer it. Have a 1lt v6 that I installed some stock ss wheels and full ss suspension on, struts, sways, springs, etc. I never noticed it back last March when I actually installed the suspension (probably becuase I was too excited), but my ride has been bouncy alot, and with reading up on this topic I am curious if I need to time my bushings as well.

Is timing of the bushings only something done for lowering a car? Technically this "lowered" it a bit with the new SS suspension correct?

Like I said before, there has been a definite degredation in ride quality over the past 10 months, and its too bouncy to the point where It's not an enjoyable ride. Not to mention I live in Chicago and this is my daily driver! I try not to hit the pot holes, but can't miss ALL the bumps! :-p

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:10 PM   #49
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I wouldn't think going from your stock suspension to the SS would be a significant enough of a change to warrant timing but I don't know. I know my ride height was dropped an inch and the timing definitely benefited me. Prior to my ride just seemed to be harsh but not bouncy as you suggest. The timing made my ride smooth and I could tell the difference. As a rule of thumb, when ride height is altered up or down, the bushings should be timed or re-****ed.
Now lowering a car seems to always decrease the ride comfort you had from the factory and with lowering there are some sacrifices that are just tolerated or are known for the look. I would say timing can't hurt so what do you have to loose? The bouncing of the ride that you describe sounds like maybe the previous owner try to do a poormans lowering by jacking the car up and heating up the springs and slowly lowering the car on the jacks until the desired height is observed and then holding the jacks at that spot until the springs cool. This can cause a bouncing of a car and I've seen this in some cars where the bounce all over the place. I hope this is not the case with what you have.

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Old 01-25-2013, 07:33 PM   #50
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check the struts for leaks,
if the ride height changes you should retime the bushings,
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