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Old 10-15-2011, 08:07 AM   #35
jsharp
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I had shop do it allignment and reclock 108 bucks car drives better than it ever has and new cradle and diff bushings made a huge difference!
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:09 PM   #36
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Good info! Is this a sticky yet?
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:40 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsharp View Post
So lets say you lower the car and have the bushings reclocked then down the road you add new suspension parts with new bushings does the car need to be reclocked every time you take suspension parts off!
Just make sure that you tighten the suspension bolts with the car at static ride height and you will be good. This can be done on ramps. Ultimately you just want to make sure that when the car is at ride height your bushings are not in a pre-loaded state. If, for instance, you installed a set of trailing arms, tightened the mounting bolts with the wheels hanging then set the car back down, that bushing would be be pre-loaded...

To a certain extent, bushing pre-load is mainly an OE bushing problem. In factory bushings the inner steel sleeve of the bushing is bonded to the rubber bushing itself. This creates a certain amount of bind anytime the suspension moves up or down. BMR bushings are all designed with floating inner sleeves that are lubricated through channels designed into our bushings. A few pumps with a grease gun and the sleeve rotates bind-free. These channels also run outward to the thrust surface of the bushing to keep these areas lubed as well. With no bind in the bushing, the bolts can be tightened with the suspension in any position.

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Old 10-25-2011, 01:26 PM   #38
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So lets say you lower the car and have the bushings reclocked then down the road you add new suspension parts with new bushings does the car need to be reclocked every time you take suspension parts off!
The bushes need only be re-timed when the ride height is changed. If you replace an OE rubber bush with any aftermarket bush the ferule will not be bonded to the bush. When the ferule can turn independently from the bush no timing is required.
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:43 PM   #39
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I just did alot of suspension work to my car like cradle bushing, differential, radius rod, sway bars, trailing arms, toe rods... But i still have stock shocks and springs... Do i have to time my bushings also or it just for lowered vehicles???
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:35 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by BAWLZ SS View Post
I just did alot of suspension work to my car like cradle bushing, differential, radius rod, sway bars, trailing arms, toe rods... But i still have stock shocks and springs... Do i have to time my bushings also or it just for lowered vehicles???
It sounds like you replaced almost every component that had rubber bushings, except the rear shocks. Just make sure that you tighten the rear lower shock mount while the car is at ride height and you will be fine. Whether the car is lowered or at stock height, if it still has rubber bushings, it is important to tighten the bolts with the vehicles weight resting on the suspension. In other words, don't tighten any of the bolts with the suspension hanging.
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:55 PM   #41
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR guy View Post
It sounds like you replaced almost every component that had rubber bushings, except the rear shocks. Just make sure that you tighten the rear lower shock mount while the car is at ride height and you will be fine. Whether the car is lowered or at stock height, if it still has rubber bushings, it is important to tighten the bolts with the vehicles weight resting on the suspension. In other words, don't tighten any of the bolts with the suspension hanging.
I torqed everything to specs except for lower A arms and lower shock bolt when the cradle was still off the car. When cradle was back on and sitting with all the weight of the car on and on the floor, i torqued the lower A arms and lower shock bolts to specs. Am i ok or what should i do?
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:02 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by BAWLZ SS View Post
I torqed everything to specs except for lower A arms and lower shock bolt when the cradle was still off the car. When cradle was back on and sitting with all the weight of the car on and on the floor, i torqued the lower A arms and lower shock bolts to specs. Am i ok or what should i do?
Drive it.
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:07 PM   #43
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Drive it.
LOL. I guess its good Thankz
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:50 AM   #44
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If anybody wants to download the re-clocking procedure along with torque values and images, we now have them bundled with our lowering spring installation instructions HERE. Just click and print!

Also, if anybody has any further questions about the re-clocking procedure, feel free to post on this thread.
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Old 10-02-2012, 01:01 PM   #45
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I can't say enough about performing this procedure after installing lowering springs. My car had the same issue as others after installing the lowering springs (bouncy). I brought my car back to the original installer with the bush timing instructions from this forum.
He timed the bushings and realigned, no more bouncy feeling. Just a firmer better corning ride, as it should be.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:31 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by BMR guy View Post
If anybody wants to download the re-clocking procedure along with torque values and images, we now have them bundled with our lowering spring installation instructions HERE. Just click and print!

Also, if anybody has any further questions about the re-clocking procedure, feel free to post on this thread.
Why is the V6 Base and V6 RS different?
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:35 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Info@PeddersUSA.com View Post
Race Ramps will work if that's all you have.

We have put together a detailed PDF that you can print out that covers thie issue of bushing Timing. With this you can bring it with you to a shop and have them do it on the alignment rack.
Pedders Camaro/G8 Bushing Timing Tech Sheet

Also this is good for someone that isn't familiar with the Camaro during an alignment.
Pedders Camaro/G8 Alignment Tech Sheet
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Why is the V6 Base and V6 RS different?
There is no difference in the Base, RS, or SS when it comes to this.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:54 PM   #48
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Ok quick question guys, and I hope someone can answer it. Have a 1lt v6 that I installed some stock ss wheels and full ss suspension on, struts, sways, springs, etc. I never noticed it back last March when I actually installed the suspension (probably becuase I was too excited), but my ride has been bouncy alot, and with reading up on this topic I am curious if I need to time my bushings as well.

Is timing of the bushings only something done for lowering a car? Technically this "lowered" it a bit with the new SS suspension correct?

Like I said before, there has been a definite degredation in ride quality over the past 10 months, and its too bouncy to the point where It's not an enjoyable ride. Not to mention I live in Chicago and this is my daily driver! I try not to hit the pot holes, but can't miss ALL the bumps! :-p

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:10 PM   #49
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I wouldn't think going from your stock suspension to the SS would be a significant enough of a change to warrant timing but I don't know. I know my ride height was dropped an inch and the timing definitely benefited me. Prior to my ride just seemed to be harsh but not bouncy as you suggest. The timing made my ride smooth and I could tell the difference. As a rule of thumb, when ride height is altered up or down, the bushings should be timed or re-****ed.
Now lowering a car seems to always decrease the ride comfort you had from the factory and with lowering there are some sacrifices that are just tolerated or are known for the look. I would say timing can't hurt so what do you have to loose? The bouncing of the ride that you describe sounds like maybe the previous owner try to do a poormans lowering by jacking the car up and heating up the springs and slowly lowering the car on the jacks until the desired height is observed and then holding the jacks at that spot until the springs cool. This can cause a bouncing of a car and I've seen this in some cars where the bounce all over the place. I hope this is not the case with what you have.

Praise the Lowered!
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:33 PM   #50
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check the struts for leaks,
if the ride height changes you should retime the bushings,
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:44 AM   #51
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Great writeup BMR guy!

And I can attest to the absolute need to "Time" the bushings after a ride height alteration.

I installed the Pfadt drop springs and balance bar on my car last weekend. Today was the day to get the bushings "timed" and the 4 wheel alignment completed.

On my way to the shop for alignment I was beginning to think I'd made a mistake by lowering the car because of the ride quality I was experiencing. I knew there would be a slight trade off of ride compliance for handling improvements but the ride was much more harsh then I'd expected.

Once on the rack for a while, after timing but before aligning, the technician asked me who manufactured the spring package I had and who installed them? I immediately thought something must have been wrong. But to my relief he said that the drop was perfectly square side to side and just right front to back. (slightly lower in front then in back) He stated that the rear settled almost 1/2" after the bushings were timed!

Those bushings must have been under quite a bit of preload to hold the tail of the car up as much as a 1/2"! The tech wanted me to take him for a ride to make sure everything was to my liking before he signed off on the job and as soon as we wheeled out of the parking lot I could tell the difference in the ride quality.

Yes it still rides a bit stiffer then the factory set-up but the harshness that I felt on the way to the shop was gone! I LOVE the way the car looks, feels and takes the curves.

People......... if you alter the ride height of your car, take the time or pay the price to have those bushings "timed". The difference is night and day!

Blackwell I know I'm questioning you about an old post here. But I've read what's said her bit still confused as to what exactly "timed bushing" is exactly. Can you explain in an even more lamen terms for me if you don't mind.

My car is actually low now been now for about a year I would say. I've been reading and searching info regarding suspension. Some of your earlier concerns is mines now. ( regarding ride quality) so I plan to change out all my bushings and control arm, trailing , etc. so I just need a clearer meanin of timed bushings. Thxs man !!!
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