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Forced Induction - V6 V6 Supercharger, turbo, nitrous discussions

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Old 07-15-2011, 03:33 PM   #51
GretchenGotGrowl


 
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Originally Posted by mpiper View Post
That's a good point. I only have 1 positive claim of gaining HP on a NA engine. Spinmonster on the corvette forum did it with a vette and got good gains. But he's the only one, and that's not an LLT V6. Everyone else says it's a no go.

Of course, my goal was originally just to regain the lost HP in my power curve due to the temps going from 60* ambient to 105* ambient. So if this were to simply drop the ambient air being fed into the engine from 105 to 60, would it regain the lost power and responsiveness? No "Max Gain" question here, just wondering if 60* during winter = 60* during summer. There's a kit out there that would do the temp drop for around $400. So when I was saying max gain of maybe 20, I was saying Summer HP of 289 being brought back up to 309. In the winter, I was never thinking this would be anything. But we have 90+ temps from May through September, so regaining my winter level of performance for 5 months of the year seemed a reasonable goal.

From that perspective, does it seem feasible, or still a no go??
I see your point. However, how will the ECU know about the meth/H2O without a tune. The IAT sensor is on the intake tube, but you will spray right before the throttle body or directly into the manifold. You will have to run a tune to adjust for the amount you are spraying.
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Old 07-15-2011, 03:41 PM   #52
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Graham, your post came in while I was typing. I'll be PM ing you about that. As far as the thread, can you describe what parts are involved in that setup for the people that have joined the thread while munching popcorn
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Old 07-15-2011, 03:46 PM   #53
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GGG, I were to do it, i would relocate the iat sensor to after the injector, so out reads the New temp. I wanted a kit for that, but so far no one has done one.

As far as tune, I'm buying one. Just prioritizing costs on what I do first, so it'll happen between now and January.
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Old 07-15-2011, 04:09 PM   #54
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Graham, your post came in while I was typing. I'll be PM ing you about that. As far as the thread, can you describe what parts are involved in that setup for the people that have joined the thread while munching popcorn
Sure can:



Your Basic Dry system.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...4&product=4099

This will be used in conjunction with our ring instead of the nozzle:



http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...4&product=1214

This will be placed inside of the filter and is what will spray the nitrous into the air stream.



http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...=26&section=86

This will provide the WOT and window switch functions. Our window switch has the TPS built into it and then it also has a gear lockout feature. Nice to have all that in one box.



http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...=23&section=77

Just to make things a little easier to reach.


Here is the basic layout.
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Old 07-15-2011, 04:28 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Graham@Nitrousoutlet View Post
Sure can:



Your Basic Dry system.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...4&product=4099

This will be used in conjunction with our ring instead of the nozzle:



http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...4&product=1214

This will be placed inside of the filter and is what will spray the nitrous into the air stream.



http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...=26&section=86

This will provide the WOT and window switch functions. Our window switch has the TPS built into it and then it also has a gear lockout feature. Nice to have all that in one box.



http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...=23&section=77

Just to make things a little easier to reach.


Here is the basic layout.
I would have thought you would have started with the kit with the ring already in it.

What makes one better for this than the other? (No experience with this, so it might be a dumb question.)
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Old 07-15-2011, 04:32 PM   #56
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The brand X is a more budget friendly and since we do not need the flow capability of the N20 system I assumed this would be where you would like to start.
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:58 PM   #57
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OK, that makes sense. I just wasn't sure if there was something specific that I was missing.

So do you cut a hole in the filter to run the nitrous? What would be the lowest rpm that a small (50 Max) can be triggered safely? Does the size of the shot affect how soon you can start spraying?
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:59 PM   #58
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OK, that makes sense. I just wasn't sure if there was something specific that I was missing.

So do you cut a hole in the filter to run the nitrous? What would be the lowest rpm that a small (50 Max) can be triggered safely? Does the size of the shot affect how soon you can start spraying?
Yes. You make a small incision and then you can plumb the nitrous line to the spray ring.

I would say around 2800rpm's. Not too much, but if it was say 250+ I would generally lean toward safety and activate it higher.
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:42 PM   #59
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OK, It looks like nitrous is the simplest way to go. But it requires a minimum of 2,800 RPM. I spend most of my daily drive closer to 1,800 to 2,000 and the "bog" seems to be when you first tap the throttle. The only solution now is to slam the throttle and have it downshift and slam the RPMs from 1,900 to 3,500 or so and run.

In cooler weather, I can press the throttle gradually and have the car just start smoothly and strongly pick up speed. I don't like having to slam the throttle that hard for simple driving when it's so hot outside. SC2150's chiller would fix this, but I was hoping for a simpler solution for just a simple temperature problem. All that extra piping attached to the A/C scares me while I'm still under warranty. I don't think I could pop that off to avoid a dealership auto-void.
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