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Old 07-28-2011, 04:42 PM   #1
calbert1999
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New clutch advice

Within about 6 weeks I'll be installing a new boosted LSX427 with expectation of about 800rwhp. Currently, I was making about 680rwhp. and stock clutch started to fail, also experienced the pedal to the floor issue, and missed shifts with grinding issues.

In the market for a new clutch and of course there is McLeod RXT, SPEC Twin, RAM, ZRI (LPE, and a whole bunch of other names), problem is twin discs are better known for track, and single for street.

My understanding is single will behave much better on the street and last longer, while twin discs will handle on the track better but won't last long with stop n' go daily traffic.

Many vendors claim their twin disc clutches are now capable of dealing with the daily city traffic grind.

I'm going to need something really strong so reaching out to C5 members to see what they went with.

If you could share the following that would be great.

TQ / HP =
Brand / Model =
Disc # (1 or 2) =
Disc material (iron or other) =
Satisfaction =
Chatter (Y / N) =
Pedal feel (stock or harder) =
Engagement (low or high) =
(stock clutch doesn't engage until 3/4 of the way off the floor for example).

Much appreciated.

Last edited by calbert1999; 07-28-2011 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:06 PM   #2
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I think twin disc clutches are easier to daily drive than a heavy duty single disc. That being said, I just ordered the McLeod RXT.
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Old 07-28-2011, 07:41 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yotaman96 View Post
I think twin disc clutches are easier to daily drive than a heavy duty single disc. That being said, I just ordered the McLeod RXT.
You know I've heard this come up a few times. A lot of folks really like the McLeod RXT. How much TQ do you have currently?
Please, let me know how you like it once you get it.
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:41 PM   #4
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Mainly stock right now, but I'm putting a Whipple on soon. I put the RST in my Trans Am. So far it's great. Very good manners.
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:45 PM   #5
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McLeod RXT! FTW

Just installed mine and its super smooth and rate at more than 1000 hp

no chatter
super smooth
twin disc
softer than stock petal
engagement a little lower than stock
100% satisfaction
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:19 PM   #6
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Single vs dual disc is one hell of a debate. I'll give you our two cents and we can go from there.

Dual discs are comprised of a flywheel - disc - floater - disc - pressure plate. The issues you run into with multi disc units are numerous. Yes, you can typically get more holding capacity out of less plate load, however, by stacking the discs you complicate things. Here's a list of pros and cons.



DUAL DISC PROS -
  • Hold the same if not more with less plate load
  • You can run a generic friction that costs less for you to produce and you make more profit and it will hold decent power.
  • Typically less pedal effort.
  • Typically more life.
DUAL DISC CONS -
  • Less plate load translates to generic, often converted import, pressure plates.
  • Gengeric frictions are just that. If you attempt to abuse them they will fail.
  • Life can be dramatically reduced if even the slightest thing goes wrong or is out of spec.
  • When you increase the coefficient by adding more aggressive material you build heat that can't be released other than through the floater. This can warp the floater causing disengagement issues, clutch pedal return issues, rapid wear issues, etc.
  • Because friction materials cannot be as accurately cut as we like you often times have to shim the unit to get the correct install height. If you get it wrong the clutch may fail.
SINGLE DISC PROS -
  • Simplicity.
  • Due to the advances in friction material you no longer have to have a clutch so stiff you walk in circles.
  • Longer life due to less complications.
SINGLE DISC CONS -
  • If you don't adjust your driving habits to the clutch it will aggrevate you.
  • Reduced life due to aggressive materials.
  • Slightly stiffer pedal than stock (we don't believe in import pressure plates)
  • Chatter can be present.
  • Some high hp units can be an on/off swith.
The list can go on and on.

Don't get me wrong, we've got a few test twins and triples in the market as we speak. The only reason we haven't released a twin or triple is because we're simply not done with research. Could we have had a twin in the market a couple of years ago? Sure. The difference between us and most is that we will make certain that the Monster twins and triples will drop in and go. No shims, no measuring, no b.s.

Our singles on the other hand out perform most twins costing twice as much. Is there other twins out there that will outperform our singles, sure. But the cost is high. We've sold thousands to customers that are more than pleased with their performance. The issue with the internet is that a handful of guys complain about some things and you're judged on that as a company. The other thousands of people that are happy and don't post up get ignored. We understand this as a company, however, we've proven our singles in a big way and we'll continue to do so. Unfortunately the twin fad is hitting full force and we'll make a twin to suite it. If it were up to Steve we'd stick with simple singles that hold four digits.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:28 PM   #7
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Chris my stage 3 from you all rocks!!! Now if we can get someone kicking ass and building better master and slave cyl's i'll be happy.. I've got about 1200 miles on your stage 3 and its FANTASTIC.. little bit of chatter but who cares ;-)

Zach
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calbert1999 View Post
In the market for a new clutch and of course there is McLeod RXT, SPEC Twin, RAM, ZRI (LPE, and a whole bunch of other names), problem is twin discs are better known for track, and single for street.

I'm going to need something really strong so reaching out to C5 members to see what they went with.

If you could share the following that would be great.

TQ / HP = 822/ 793
Brand / Model = ACT, 1400 Ft Lb rated
Disc # (1 or 2) = Twin
Disc material (iron or other) = Not sure
Satisfaction = Still out for decision
Chatter (Y / N) = Yes, though improved after sending it back to ACT
Pedal feel (stock or harder) = Slightly stiffer than stock, actually feels better
Engagement (low or high) = mid point now, was right off the floor at first

Much appreciated.
Calbert,

When we first installed my clutch as part of the build, it took a little getting used to starting off, there was quite a bit of chatter if I didn't rev the motor a bit before coming off the floor, and it felt like it was grabbing a little even with it on the floor say sitting at a light... I got to throwing it into neutral all the time as I approcached lights...

We eventually pulled it when we were removing the tranny to address the synchronizer and shift fork issues.

We took pics of it and ended up sending it back to 'ACT, and they did some work on it... It seems to respond better, and the chatter has lessened with driving time, but when my builder pulled the transission this last time, he said the assembly looks a little worse for wear.. I'm going to try it for a while longer and then may have to consider other options...

I can say that I have never had any issues with it clamping, though traction has been a part of that... I feel like it has the potential to be a good clutch, but I'm not sure how long it will last...

I'm considering options as well, so I'll be following this thread...
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:36 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The 2010 Sin View Post
Chris my stage 3 from you all rocks!!! Now if we can get someone kicking ass and building better master and slave cyl's i'll be happy.. I've got about 1200 miles on your stage 3 and its FANTASTIC.. little bit of chatter but who cares ;-)

Zach
Glad to hear you're enjoying it, thanks again for choosing a Monster!
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
Calbert,

When we first installed my clutch as part of the build, it took a little getting used to starting off, there was quite a bit of chatter if I didn't rev the motor a bit before coming off the floor, and it felt like it was grabbing a little even with it on the floor say sitting at a light... I got to throwing it into neutral all the time as I approcached lights...

We eventually pulled it when we were removing the tranny to address the synchronizer and shift fork issues.

We took pics of it and ended up sending it back to 'ACT, and they did some work on it... It seems to respond better, and the chatter has lessened with driving time, but when my builder pulled the transission this last time, he said the assembly looks a little worse for wear.. I'm going to try it for a while longer and then may have to consider other options...

I can say that I have never had any issues with it clamping, though traction has been a part of that... I feel like it has the potential to be a good clutch, but I'm not sure how long it will last...

I'm considering options as well, so I'll be following this thread...
If a clutch isn't fully disengaging for whatever reason it will eventually tear up the synchros.
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Old 08-02-2011, 02:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris@SNL/Monster View Post
If a clutch isn't fully disengaging for whatever reason it will eventually tear up the synchros.
True, and I appreciate that info, but I was having synchro problems before the build... They just got substantially worse with the increased power... We now have carbon fiber synchros and the clutch is a decent ways off the floor before engaging...

Do you guys install and set up big hp rated clutches at your location, or are you strictly retail... I hoping someone does an adjustable clutch slave/master cylinder soon. The reason for the big hp question, is we are soon to up mine into the 1200 or so rwhp range... And 1250-1300 ft/lbs... Does monster make anything that isn't an on off switch clutch for this power level...

The above power will not be full time... It will only be for track showings and then back to my current power level for street driving... I realize I may be asking too much, but if I don't ask, I'll never know
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
True, and I appreciate that info, but I was having synchro problems before the build... They just got substantially worse with the increased power... We now have carbon fiber synchros and the clutch is a decent ways off the floor before engaging...

Do you guys install and set up big hp rated clutches at your location, or are you strictly retail... I hoping someone does an adjustable clutch slave/master cylinder soon. The reason for the big hp question, is we are soon to up mine into the 1200 or so rwhp range... And 1250-1300 ft/lbs... Does monster make anything that isn't an on off switch clutch for this power level...

The above power will not be full time... It will only be for track showings and then back to my current power level for street driving... I realize I may be asking too much, but if I don't ask, I'll never know

New master and slave will make alot of happy customers.. Including myself. my car has sat in the driveway more than its been driven in the past 5-6 months due to these issues.
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
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New master and slave will make alot of happy customers.. Including myself. my car has sat in the driveway more than its been driven in the past 5-6 months due to these issues.
Mine seems to be ok for right now, but I'll be happier when there are better choices...good luck with your issues...let me know if you discover any hidden gems..
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:30 PM   #14
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monster clutch

we have 644 rwhp on a S/C magason 2300, head work, cam, m-6 . we got a stage -3 clutch, it is awsome!!! glad we went the monster route. got a neat t-shirt too. had to pay for it tho. troubles over. flem in ohio
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:33 PM   #15
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We carry Spec twin clutches at some competetive pricing. They can handle anything you throw at them!
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
Calbert,

When we first installed my clutch as part of the build, it took a little getting used to starting off, there was quite a bit of chatter if I didn't rev the motor a bit before coming off the floor, and it felt like it was grabbing a little even with it on the floor say sitting at a light... I got to throwing it into neutral all the time as I approcached lights...

We eventually pulled it when we were removing the tranny to address the synchronizer and shift fork issues.

We took pics of it and ended up sending it back to 'ACT, and they did some work on it... It seems to respond better, and the chatter has lessened with driving time, but when my builder pulled the transission this last time, he said the assembly looks a little worse for wear.. I'm going to try it for a while longer and then may have to consider other options...

I can say that I have never had any issues with it clamping, though traction has been a part of that... I feel like it has the potential to be a good clutch, but I'm not sure how long it will last...

I'm considering options as well, so I'll be following this thread...
That's what I'm wondering too. I expect to have about 800+rwhp. when I complete the build, so thinking of getting something rated rated similar to what you have. Thing is I'm hearing the twin clutches have bad manners at that level, but we may not have a choice.
I hear good things about ACT but they're probably not everyone's first choice. Most people are happy with the ZR1 cluth, however, I don't think it will hold very long in our extreme HP case.

Unfortunately, at our power levels there may not be much more out there that's made with the solid "iron" components that will have good street manners. I was told will have to re-learn how to drive in traffic (no clutch slipping, just stop n' go).

Quote:
Originally Posted by flem View Post
we have 644 rwhp on a S/C magason 2300, head work, cam, m-6 . we got a stage -3 clutch, it is awsome!!! glad we went the monster route. got a neat t-shirt too. had to pay for it tho. troubles over. flem in ohio
Not sure if the stage 3 is going to be sufficent for my needs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Juiced1 View Post
We carry Spec twin clutches at some competetive pricing. They can handle anything you throw at them!
Lot's of praises from people about these clutches, I had someone clain the ST Super Trim version has very good street manners. I've been leaning this way for some time, but not 100% sure yet. I really thinking either Mcleod RXT or SPEC P or ST Super Twin.
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:16 PM   #17
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I've been curious about the clutch that just came up from Australia/new Zealand. One of the vendors on here had a posting about them... I've tried calling the manufacturer to get technical information but have been unsuccessful so far... Can't remember the name of it but I'll go find it... The ZR1 clutch will not hold 800 rwhp in our cars... Cars is to heavy, and the clutch is only rated for about 850-900 and that's at the flywheel... You'll be in the 950 or so area...at the clutch...Went and found it, it's the Mantic clutch, very nice looking piece, expensive, but if it does what it's supposed to...
Quote:
Originally Posted by calbert1999 View Post
That's what I'm wondering too. I expect to have about 800+rwhp. when I complete the build, so thinking of getting something rated rated similar to what you have. Thing is I'm hearing the twin clutches have bad manners at that level, but we may not have a choice.
I hear good things about ACT but they're probably not everyone's first choice. Most people are happy with the ZR1 cluth, however, I don't think it will hold very long in our extreme HP case.

Unfortunately, at our power levels there may not be much more out there that's made with the solid "iron" components that will have good street manners. I was told will have to re-learn how to drive in traffic (no clutch slipping, just stop n' go).



Not sure if the stage 3 is going to be sufficent for my needs.



Lot's of praises from people about these clutches, I had someone clain the ST Super Trim version has very good street manners. I've been leaning this way for some time, but not 100% sure yet. I really thinking either Mcleod RXT or SPEC P or ST Super Twin.
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
I've been curious about the clutch that just came up from Australia/new Zealand. One of the vendors on here had a posting about them... I've tried calling the manufacturer to get technical information but have been unsuccessful so far... Can't remember the name of it but I'll go find it... The ZR1 clutch will not hold 800 rwhp in our cars... Cars is to heavy, and the clutch is only rated for about 850-900 and that's at the flywheel... You'll be in the 950 or so area...at the clutch...Went and found it, it's the Mantic clutch, very nice looking piece, expensive, but if it does what it's supposed to...
Agreed. Curious, are you not interested in the SPEC or McLeod?
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:11 PM   #19
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Agreed. Curious, are you not interested in the SPEC or McLeod?
They are still in the running, but I want consider all available options... Don't want the have to buy a new one several times before finding one that works and has some longevity of life...
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:18 PM   #20
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Get the McLeod RXT and be done. This is the only clutch that I would use as I had it in my car and loved it. Drives better than stock, no noise and will take all the power you can throw at it. As you know there arent alot of cars built like mine and this is the only clutch I can recommend as I know it works perfectly for very high hp applications.
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:54 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
True, and I appreciate that info, but I was having synchro problems before the build... They just got substantially worse with the increased power... We now have carbon fiber synchros and the clutch is a decent ways off the floor before engaging...

Do you guys install and set up big hp rated clutches at your location, or are you strictly retail... I hoping someone does an adjustable clutch slave/master cylinder soon. The reason for the big hp question, is we are soon to up mine into the 1200 or so rwhp range... And 1250-1300 ft/lbs... Does monster make anything that isn't an on off switch clutch for this power level...

The above power will not be full time... It will only be for track showings and then back to my current power level for street driving... I realize I may be asking too much, but if I don't ask, I'll never know
I know Tick has been working on an adjustable master cylinder as are we on our Carbon triple which will hold your power goals. You are asking a lot, but that is why we have yet to release a twin/triple to the market as we want to meet those expectations.
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:58 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by calbert1999 View Post
That's what I'm wondering too. I expect to have about 800+rwhp. when I complete the build, so thinking of getting something rated rated similar to what you have. Thing is I'm hearing the twin clutches have bad manners at that level, but we may not have a choice.
I hear good things about ACT but they're probably not everyone's first choice. Most people are happy with the ZR1 cluth, however, I don't think it will hold very long in our extreme HP case.

Unfortunately, at our power levels there may not be much more out there that's made with the solid "iron" components that will have good street manners. I was told will have to re-learn how to drive in traffic (no clutch slipping, just stop n' go).



Not sure if the stage 3 is going to be sufficent for my needs.



Lot's of praises from people about these clutches, I had someone clain the ST Super Trim version has very good street manners. I've been leaning this way for some time, but not 100% sure yet. I really thinking either Mcleod RXT or SPEC P or ST Super Twin.
A Level 3 is good for 700rwhp which it sounds like you will be exceeding, but an 11" Ceramic will hold 850rwhp and do have guys out there who daily drive with it.
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:04 AM   #23
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Get the McLeod RXT and be done. This is the only clutch that I would use as I had it in my car and loved it. Drives better than stock, no noise and will take all the power you can throw at it. As you know there arent alot of cars built like mine and this is the only clutch I can recommend as I know it works perfectly for very high hp applications.
Noticed previous thread you're changing clutches. Any specific reason why? What brand are you going with now?
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:46 AM   #24
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When I was researching my clutch choice many of the high horsepower car guys recommended RPS. I went with the RPS tin full carbon kit....instead of using organic material for friction surfaces, it uses carbon.

I have yet to drive my car as they are putting the 9" in and should have it back next week but Kevin from Vengeance has driven it a lot and said the clutch feels amazing....a little more pedal feel than stock but very very driver friendly.

My car doesn't have the power of SSE yet as I am still on cast pistons but it put down 670/620.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:46 AM   #25
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When I was researching my clutch choice many of the high horsepower car guys recommended RPS. I went with the RPS tin full carbon kit....instead of using organic material for friction surfaces, it uses carbon.

I have yet to drive my car as they are putting the 9" in and should have it back next week but Kevin from Vengeance has driven it a lot and said the clutch feels amazing....a little more pedal feel than stock but very very driver friendly.

My car doesn't have the power of SSE yet as I am still on cast pistons but it put down 670/620.
I passed that HP#, that's why the choice isn't so easy. I'd go with the RPS (ZR1) too, but it won't hold. Not a lot of vehicles like SSE around, but those that have upwards of 1000hp. swear by the Mcleod.
That may be the way to go for very high hp applications.
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