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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 12-12-2011, 09:59 PM   #26
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We used royal purple for trip to fest. With the A6 you need to put in gear when refilling. We have our buddie Eddie that shares his lift in his garage. Much easier to work on.

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Old 12-14-2011, 04:29 PM   #27
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For those that used Royal Purple, any need to use a friction modifier? According to their website it doesn't appear you need to.
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Old 12-14-2011, 05:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooCool5 View Post
There is different GM gear oils for the A6 and M6 cars.
Not on our Camaros
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Old 12-14-2011, 05:47 PM   #29
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"CruznSS:With the A6 you need to put in gear when refilling"" ---> What does this mean? Sorry, can someone provide more details for this procedure? Thanks, Albertog
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Old 12-14-2011, 08:50 PM   #30
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For those that used Royal Purple, any need to use a friction modifier? According to their website it doesn't appear you need to.

Negative. Grip it and rip it. You will notice a difference. RP fluid throughout for me (motor, tranny and diff)
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:45 PM   #31
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Why is everyone changing the fluid so early? Just clicked over 56K on my 2SS/RS this morning. Still has factory fluid in it. Wasn't planning on changing till 100K (which I have done on all my other vehicles). My F150 is just about ready for its third change (290K).
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:59 PM   #32
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Why is everyone changing the fluid so early? Just clicked over 56K on my 2SS/RS this morning. Still has factory fluid in it. Wasn't planning on changing till 100K (which I have done on all my other vehicles). My F150 is just about ready for its third change (290K).
Peace of mind. I hit 30k before I decided to change my Diff fluid. It's only 14 dollars for the fluid and pump, and takes about 15 minutes. Nothing that I would regret doing, especially when I saw what came out of the diff.
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:14 AM   #33
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:19 PM   #34
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I would advise anyone using RP 75-90 to get a friction modifier with it when you go to buy. My rear end is howling now.
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:18 AM   #35
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I would advise anyone using RP 75-90 to get a friction modifier with it when you go to buy. My rear end is howling now.
x2 i put in royal purple and the sound got worse... went to the dealer with the TSB to replace the seals and so far 1 week and noise free
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Old 09-15-2012, 01:40 PM   #36
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Quick tip I used today. If you can't maneuver the gear oil bottle enough to drain it completely to fill the diff, transfer a few ounces at a time from the gear oil bottle into the empty, smaller GM friction reducer bottle. Use the smaller bottle to then put the last few ounces into the diff until the diff is full. Took me about 3 times to fill up the small bottle and then squeeze it into the diff - but the diff is now full.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:43 AM   #37
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x2 i put in royal purple and the sound got worse... went to the dealer with the TSB to replace the seals and so far 1 week and noise free
Same here. I got a new diff installed and used royal purple. I felt the plates grabbing alot and it howles also so i added additive and its better but not gone. I am going to change for mobile 1 synthetic and additive cause thats what i used in my old rear diff and it ran fine. i like RP but not the gear oil "with additive".
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:08 PM   #38
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The Mobil 1 I found in 75W-90 has "LS" on the bottle, so I only used a smidgen of additive. I can hear the rear end during a tight turn in a parking lot, but nothing during street driving. It grabs the clutch plates in the diff pretty well (M6 manual V-6).

My fluid had a lot of break-in debris both in the fluid and on the drain plug at 1200 miles. I changed it "hot." That's how I change all lubricants, as they are holding more debris than when they are cold. Just be aware they are coming out hot and you'll be fine.

Good advice to remove the fill (top) plug before removing the drain (bottom) plug. I had a manual transmissioned SUV that I found out the hard way it is difficult to fill from the drain plug when the fill plug wouldn't come out.

I tend to follow the manual on this service. It says to change the fluid far more frequently when the car is tracked (mine isn't; I just treat the freeway entrance ramps like a strip). You'll be amazed at what ends up on that magnetic drain plug.

Another "lift" method is a simple couple of pieces of lumber. Amazing what a few 2"x8" pieces of left-over wood can do for your clearance when you drive up on them. Stagger them so you drive both rear wheels up on a pair, then another pair and suddenly you have an extra 3" under the car. (2"x whatever lumber is 1 1/2" thick)

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Old 12-06-2012, 07:23 PM   #39
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Subscribed.......
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:48 PM   #40
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Change fluid @ 6500 miles, fluid was dirty, funkeee with lots of shavings on magnet.

Hard to reach plug to refill, so used a 3 ft tube laying around garage, then made hole into jug cork that fits snugly for the tube. Extend tube and container outside of wheel (look like a IV bag).....then let gravity take over. took about 30 minutes....
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:16 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Les7311 View Post
Change fluid @ 6500 miles, fluid was dirty, funkeee with lots of shavings on magnet.

Hard to reach plug to refill, so used a 3 ft tube laying around garage, then made hole into jug cork that fits snugly for the tube. Extend tube and container outside of wheel (look like a IV bag).....then let gravity take over. took about 30 minutes....
What Gear oil did you go with?
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:15 PM   #42
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Red Line 75W90....little over 1 quart @ $14
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:10 AM   #43
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I changed my rear end fluid @17,000 miles. Just like Les7311 said my fill and drain plugs were
covered with an inch of shavings. It looked like thick silver paint.
I'm not sure what fluid my mechanic used but he said it was the correct fluid for my SS.
An ounce of prevention......
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:09 PM   #44
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I change it often, why not? Cost 20 bucks and takes 10 minutes if the cars already up in the air for something else
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:09 PM   #45
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I change it often, why not? Cost 20 bucks and takes 10 minutes if the cars already up in the air for something else
That's good logic.
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:28 PM   #46
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So just to clarify, for my M6, do i need to add a friction modifier? (if its not already in the oil)

Edit: i think i do since i have the LSD...but just wanted to make sure
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Old 12-22-2012, 04:20 PM   #47
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didnt with Red Line.....and thats per the store... no problems after 100 miles... plus cheaper than Steelership

Quote:
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So just to clarify, for my M6, do i need to add a friction modifier? (if its not already in the oil)

Edit: i think i do since i have the LSD...but just wanted to make sure
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:46 PM   #48
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didnt with Red Line.....and thats per the store... no problems after 100 miles... plus cheaper than Steelership
Thank you, I'll probably get some Mobil 1...also good write up op...
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:09 PM   #49
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Hell for eleven bucks, I am going to do it every winter just to keep themetal shavings down.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:52 PM   #50
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Changed it for the first time at 45k and talk about nasty.
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