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Old 09-28-2012, 02:45 PM   #326
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The needles in the '10-'11 gauges are different than mine so I don't know if I could help you out with that one.

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Originally Posted by ALLTRBO View Post
Just as a visual reference, I'm pretty sure I have some close-ups of those that I haven't posted, I'll have to remember to check when I get home tonight. But yes, the notches need to be pointing the same way.
Well creektrack posted the stock LED close-up so that pretty much covers it, but my pic of the already swapped LED's in that location is still on my SD card which is in the camera that my friend is borrowing. Bah.
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Old 09-28-2012, 03:44 PM   #327
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ok i took 4 pics 1st one is my speedo needle so you can see how its supposed to be sitting

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2nd is the tach needle showing both pieces, notice on the back piece the semi circles they are notches that lock inside the needle

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3rd i tried just pushing straight down it wont clip in

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4th i slid it in then tried to push down but the front clips wont clip in

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLTRBO View Post
The needles in the '10-'11 gauges are different than mine so I don't know if I could help you out with that one.


Well creektrack posted the stock LED close-up so that pretty much covers it, but my pic of the already swapped LED's in that location is still on my SD card which is in the camera that my friend is borrowing. Bah.

its all good man thanks i do appreciate all the help everyone has given
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:12 PM   #328
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Never mind I got it, I slid it in like the 4th pic then used my nail on the back to hold the clips from popping out and used a tiny flat head screwdriver to push the other side down and it clipped right in

Will post pics of my final product tomorrow

Thanks to all you guys/gals that have helped I have nothing but for all of you
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:12 PM   #329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMoach View Post
ok i took 4 pics 1st one is my speedo needle so you can see how its supposed to be sitting

Attachment 426964

2nd is the tach needle showing both pieces, notice on the back piece the semi circles they are notches that lock inside the needle

Attachment 426965

3rd i tried just pushing straight down it wont clip in

Attachment 426966

4th i slid it in then tried to push down but the front clips wont clip in

Attachment 426967





its all good man thanks i do appreciate all the help everyone has given
One of mine did that also and I had to super glue it back together to hold. It had broken the little clips on it. Works great and you can't see it at all since it's on the back.
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:14 PM   #330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIV4MUDDIN View Post
One of mine did that also and I had to super glue it back together to hold. It had broken the little clips on it. Works great and you can't see it at all since it's on the back.
Yea I was lucky I didn't do that but is was thinking of crazy gluing mine in when I couldn't get it to clip earlier
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:13 PM   #331
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definitely glad to hear you got it back together!
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:31 AM   #332
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definitely glad to hear you got it back together!
Me too!!!!

I don't have a pic of it but on 1 of the lights under the screen when I was unsoldering the 2nd light from the top the piece on the board, the Lil square that the light actually solders to pulled off the board

I don't know if I'm lucky or what but I was able to put the square back in the place it came off of and solder the light in and it works

Just thought I'd share that incase anyone else has that happen
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:55 AM   #333
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just installed everything back changes the entire look of the car

if it wasnt for you guys/gals i would of never thought of doing something like this thanks for being such a help as i did this

ill get some night time pics tonight but just wanted to put these up cause just makes the car feel like this is how it should of been from factory

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Old 09-29-2012, 01:47 PM   #334
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Nice, glad it worked out!
Lifting a solder pad isn't all that uncommon. It connects to a trace running underneath the top layer of the board to the point that sends the LED it's power. If the other side of the LED's solder joint is good and the pad is still firmly attached to the board, then I don't think you'll have any problems with it, but it's possible that vibration and/or heat could take it out at some point. If it does, there are fixes or workarounds...

I just Googled this for everyone's reference:
(Note: that looks like a practice board without any traces, you'll have to make sure the pad has a good solder connection to the trace as well)


Last edited by ALLTRBO; 09-29-2012 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:22 PM   #335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLTRBO View Post
Nice, glad it worked out!
Lifting a solder pad isn't all that uncommon. It connects to a trace running underneath the top layer of the board to the point that sends the LED it's power. If the other side of the LED's solder joint is good and the pad is still firmly attached to the board, then I don't think you'll have any problems with it, but it's possible that vibration and/or heat could take it out at some point. If it does, there are fixes or workarounds...

I just Googled this for everyone's reference:
(Note: that looks like a practice board without any traces, you'll have to make sure the pad has a good solder connection to the trace as well)

Great post man appreciate it, I only pulled off on one side and if I understand you correctly I seen the trace your talking about, I just put the pad back in place then soldered both sides like usual

Just one question, since I only messed up 1 side I'm still ok cause the other is still good? Or will the heat affect the bad one and cut off power to that LED?
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Old 09-29-2012, 03:14 PM   #336
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Yeah, I'm saying that it will probably be okay because the good side, providing it's firmly attached, should be strong enough to give the whole thing mechanical strength so it shouldn't move (I'm basing that on my personal experimenting with similar tiny components and bad boards... YMMV)

There's a very small chance that thermal cycling, vibration, shocks, or any combination thereof could weaken and pull the attached pad because the LED is exerting more strain on it. It would then eventually lose connection to one or both traces because of constant movement. If either pad loses connection to its trace then the LED won't get power.
Like I said, though, I wouldn't worry about it. That's more of an issue with space-flight components while they're taking a violent rocket ride into space. At least that's what QA likes to tell me, anyway.
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:45 PM   #337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLTRBO View Post
Yeah, I'm saying that it will probably be okay because the good side, providing it's firmly attached, should be strong enough to give the whole thing mechanical strength so it shouldn't move (I'm basing that on my personal experimenting with similar tiny components and bad boards... YMMV)

There's a very small chance that thermal cycling, vibration, shocks, or any combination thereof could weaken and pull the attached pad because the LED is exerting more strain on it. It would then eventually lose connection to one or both traces because of constant movement. If either pad loses connection to its trace then the LED won't get power.
Like I said, though, I wouldn't worry about it. That's more of an issue with space-flight components while they're taking a violent rocket ride into space. At least that's what QA likes to tell me, anyway.
Thank you I appreciate the help, without people like you I'd but up $#!t$ creek right now
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Old 09-29-2012, 07:35 PM   #338
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To follow up on some info on the contact pad...these lights are ran in circuits, so if one led/connection is bad, it will usually make 2 or 3 other leds not work, which is when the irritating part of trouble shooting begins...its kinda like an old christmas light strand, one bad bulb will discontinue the electricity in the loop causing the circuit to stop working...

Ive had contact pads tear off before and usually you can just throw some extra solder down to recreate the trace for the pad...worse case scenario would be to use a very small wire to make a new trace, or a whole new path altogether...

But good work, and yes, the first time you light up the dash it feels like a brand new car all over again, makes it more enjoyable to drive...IMO its one of the best cosmetic mods for the everyday driver...

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Old 09-30-2012, 02:55 PM   #339
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here is mine :party0048:

i had it set dim to show the red, and also so the white doesnt make the red lettering on the gauges themselves look orange

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Old 09-30-2012, 09:46 PM   #340
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Quote:
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here is mine :party0048:

i had it set dim to show the red, and also so the white doesnt make the red lettering on the gauges themselves look orange

Attachment 427752
Looks good.
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:49 PM   #341
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Looks good.
Thank you but might change the water temp and fuel gauge face so I'm not sure if this is complete yet, but I love it either way
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:11 AM   #342
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Ok I'm having trouble yet again

When trying to put the lights switch back together the knob pushed apart, so I thought I lined it up right with it set to auto and when I rotate it left it springs back

But nothing works can't turn the lights to park on or off, but the lights come on at night automatically

Any ideas what I did wrong?

Last edited by MikeMoach; 10-05-2012 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:27 PM   #343
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Damn...this is nice! Love the look!

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Old 10-05-2012, 04:23 PM   #344
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Ok I'm having trouble yet again

When trying to put the lights switch back together the knob pushed apart, so I thought I lined it up right with it set to auto and when I rotate it left it springs back

But nothing works can't turn the lights to park on or off, but the lights come on at night automatically

Any ideas what I did wrong?
anyone?
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:42 PM   #345
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anyone?
Check the very last post..

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ht=disable+drl

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Old 10-05-2012, 07:02 PM   #346
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Check the very last post..

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ht=disable+drl

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Thank you Creektrack I resurrected that thread
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:51 AM   #347
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Hey guys,
I'm just getting around to fixing my temperature gauge servo that hasn't worked. I got another unit, and I'm trying to get it apart. The instructions on the first page are not clear about how to get the surround off around the temp/gas gauges. I know there are 3 tabs. The last time, I broke all 3 of these. Luckily, they press-fit tight when putting it back together. However, this time, I thought I'd do it without breaking them.

The picture shows the 3 tabs, but this is after you get the circuit board off. I can't seem to be able to find the 3 tabs around the surround from the front. Is that how they are supposed to be released?
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:51 PM   #348
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No they come from the backside, I used a small flathead and gently from from the outside of the tab with a small twist and pull from the other side with my hand enough so it doesn't clip back when I do the other clips

Just don't push with the screwdriver it will push through and hit the gauge face
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:22 PM   #349
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I'm still not getting it. To get the circuit board off, the needles have to come off. To get to the gas/temp needles, you need to remove the surrounds. I'm looking at the circuit board side, and I don't see any holes to get in there to release the surrounds. How do you get to them from the back side?
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:27 PM   #350
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Oh sorry your at the fun part

After you take off the mph and tach needles you start on clipping all the white clips on the back side holding the circuit board to the face, I started at the top of the tach and worked clockwise when you get to the bottom the needle will be holding it together, I used a small flathead here too and just pry slightly under the needle and it'll pop off

It's a Lil tricky but don't strong arm it and you should be fine
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