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Old 08-30-2016, 06:32 PM   #1
ERON23
 
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How to fix the P0449 code (Vapor Canister Vent Solenoid)

Well i have been reading threads on here about how people fixed their issues. I came to conclude that before taking it to a mechanic and charging me $800 bucks to fix it, I might as well give it a try my self to fix it. I have a 2010 RS model.

I did some research about the possible outcomes of this code and some pointed to be the sensor under the hood and the other outcome to be the sensor above the fuel pump. When I contacted mechanics every single one of them told me that 9/10 its the sensor above the fuel pump. Therefore, charging me anything from $600 to $800

I read on one of these threads about how some one just snuck their hands up there and swapped the part. Well I thought it doesn't hurt to try and do it my self. If i didn't succeed I was willing to take it to a mechanic lol. I have no background in fixing cars but i have done some simple mechanic stuff on some cars before.

1) First thing i did was buy the part from amazon. $48.48 (price as of 8/30/2016 since prices tend to change)
(Linkbelow)
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-19329...ype=automotive

2) Once I received the part I took out my tools on a Sunday and with the help of one of my friends we took on the challenge. We pretty much didn't need a lot of tools but some of the things we did were a lug wrench, needle nose pliers, jack, jack stand and a small knife.

3) First thing we did was raise the car with the jack and insert the jack stand to keep it in place. Then we removed the rear passenger tire. There i went underneath the car and started to look for the Canister Vent Solenoid. When you remove the tire the hose of the canister can be seen from the outside. Also underneath you can reach your hand through the differential and one of the tubes from the mufflers.

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(Picture of the Canister and what is attached to it)

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(Picture of where the hose of the canister is exposed. You can actually see it through here and have a second person hold it to make it easier to remove)

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(picture of the clamp from the #3 hose that took the longest to remove but can be taken off by the nose pliers. Patience is key )

4) Just by touch I knew what we were dealing with. There are four components getting on your way of removing the part. As below I have circled the hose with number one. That hose is was easily removed by just pulling it apart. The next thing is the #2 clip which is also easily removed but with this one i had my friend hold it from the side where the hose is exposed and i was pulling downward sticking my arm underneath the car. So to make it easier he would hold the canister from the rear tire side and i would be underneath the car pulling down the clip. (yes this takes patience). The #3 component was another hose attached to the canister (this one is probably the hardest one out of all three). I listed this in the order in how i removed them. The fourth component you have to remove is a small zip tide located on the side of the canister. This allowed the canister to more freely. Made the job much easier. So back to the third component which took the longest to remove. I used the needle nose pliers to remove a hose clamp this piece was stuck on the hose really tight and took me more than an hour to remove. The strategy i did was i moved the canister in a direction where i was able to see it clearly under the car. Since at the beginning I was kind of guessing where the clamp was. I will provide a picture of the clamp and how I aligned it. All this was done better while being underneath the car. Once I had a clear view I used my pliers to remove the clamp. Once removed I was able to drag the canister out. The removing par was hard but with patience it can be done.

5) Now placing the new canister in was very similar to how i took off the canister in the first place. I connected the hose with the clamp and the rest was done in the reverse order of how i removed it. The rest its pretty much common sense. I have a code scanner and cleared the code. I drove it for two days and the light did not come back on.

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6) I drove it two days to make sure the code cleared out and it did. The reason I know it cleared out was because the check engine light was off. I also needed to take my car to renew my state inspection so I went today to get my inspection done and sure it did pass. Its been three days since I got the part replaced and so far no issues. The process took me about 5 hrs in total but at the end it was totally worth it. Maybe for you guys that are more DIY people it will be easier. Im just glad i got this fixed for under $50 bucks. You sure cant beat that when you're out of warranty.

Last edited by ERON23; 09-19-2016 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:05 PM   #2
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Excellent , that is pretty much how I did mine months ago . Good Job !
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Old 08-31-2016, 09:34 AM   #3
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Awesome job.
I wonder if you could loosen, but not remove the rear sub frame bolts to get
a little more room in there.
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Old 08-31-2016, 06:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooCool5 View Post
Awesome job.
I wonder if you could loosen, but not remove the rear sub frame bolts to get
a little more room in there.
Truly what i notice being on the way was one of the pipes from the right passenger side muffler. I dont know how to remove it but if there was a way to do it then it would give you a bit more room.
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Old 08-31-2016, 06:46 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by JJPlace1 View Post
Excellent , that is pretty much how I did mine months ago . Good Job !
Thank you, I think that it was you that inspired me to fix it my self.
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Old 08-31-2016, 07:45 PM   #6
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Thank you, I think that it was you that inspired me to fix it my self.
I took my time and it was a pain in the ace but it can be done and you have proven that ! Glad you documented as you did the repair .Thank you I am glad I could inspire someone !
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Old 08-31-2016, 08:19 PM   #7
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I have a 12 with the same code but I got a letter from GM stating the warranty is good through 8 years or 120,000 miles on it. No emissions testing here in Minnesota and from what I have read this part causes no long term problems with the car. I just unplug the negative terminal for 15 minutes and the code is cleared for about a week. Once the weather turns colder I think I will make an appointment and have the dealer do it for free. Great write up for those that may have not gotten said letter from GM.
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Old 09-01-2016, 11:02 AM   #8
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I have a 12 with the same code but I got a letter from GM stating the warranty is good through 8 years or 120,000 miles on it. No emissions testing here in Minnesota and from what I have read this part causes no long term problems with the car. I just unplug the negative terminal for 15 minutes and the code is cleared for about a week. Once the weather turns colder I think I will make an appointment and have the dealer do it for free. Great write up for those that may have not gotten said letter from GM.
They should cover us on the 10's also. Where is our letter?
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Old 09-03-2016, 02:05 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by TooCool5 View Post
Awesome job.
I wonder if you could loosen, but not remove the rear sub frame bolts to get
a little more room in there.
That's exactly what I did. The job is so easy when you do it that way. I tried by just removing the wheel, but my arms and hands were getting beat up b/c there was not enough room.
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:57 AM   #10
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Thank - you for the GREAT write-up. I have the same code, and will look to tackle this replacement soon now.
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:05 PM   #11
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Joining this club. 2010 2LT RS 59k miles and P0449 came up. not covered they claim. 400+ just to fix it. guess illbuy my own part and do it now
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Old 09-06-2016, 12:49 PM   #12
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UPDATE:

So in an update to my P0449 issue i have contacted GM directly. They stated YES it is covered for 8 years/80k miles. And my warranty is good until april/2018 or 80,009 miles. They have given a voucher for my diagnostic crap theyll do at a dealer. They are personally contacting the dealership to resolve the issue of WHY it isnt being covered under the emmissions warranty. So far GM directly has been a great help. Should be resolved in a day or so.
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:32 AM   #13
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UPDATE:

So in an update to my P0449 issue i have contacted GM directly. They stated YES it is covered for 8 years/80k miles. And my warranty is good until april/2018 or 80,009 miles. They have given a voucher for my diagnostic crap theyll do at a dealer. They are personally contacting the dealership to resolve the issue of WHY it isnt being covered under the emmissions warranty. So far GM directly has been a great help. Should be resolved in a day or so.
That is good and bad news. Means I have only 10 months extended warranty left if they honor this.

I decided as a preventative measure, (at 40k miles) I will run Mystery oil in the tank every 4 months or so.
I did this in other cars and never had a emission or fuel system / injector failure ever. Hopefully it lubes All the vent and purge valves just by breathing the fuel vapor.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:40 PM   #14
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That is good and bad news. Means I have only 10 months extended warranty left if they honor this.

I decided as a preventative measure, (at 40k miles) I will run Mystery oil in the tank every 4 months or so.
I did this in other cars and never had a emission or fuel system / injector failure ever. Hopefully it lubes All the vent and purge valves just by breathing the fuel vapor.
Im still waiting if they dont call by todays end ill return the call to her direct extension and see whats up. But yea she verified its right there under my vin number and that the dealers are trying to avoid the work. Odd because dealers get paid more ( mechanics) on warranty labor.
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