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Old 08-30-2011, 04:50 PM   #1
JM10
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Problem with safety loop touching DSS aluminum Shaft

It only happends during hard cornering to the right. You can see the minor damage in the first pic.

Lucky for me my brother built me a custom one 1/8 of and inch bigger (2nd pic).
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:20 PM   #2
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You need some subframe connecters!

Kewl that your brother hooked you up with a bigger loop.
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:00 PM   #3
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Needs stronger engine/diff mounts/cradle. SFCs wont make as big a difference, as the driveshaft position is always relative to the back of the trans (engine), and diff (diff/cradle)
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:28 PM   #4
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How much larger in diameter is the DSS aluminum shaft compared to the stock shaft?
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:03 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
How much larger in diameter is the DSS aluminum shaft compared to the stock shaft?
They have options and choices depending on material...
The biggest one on their site shows to be a 3.5" shaft, though I thought I read somewhere they have a 4" option... I could be wrong...
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:41 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squintz Palladoris View Post
You need some subframe connecters!

Kewl that your brother hooked you up with a bigger loop.
I already have BMR subframe connectors

Quote:
Originally Posted by DietCoke View Post
Needs stronger engine/diff mounts/cradle. SFCs wont make as big a difference, as the driveshaft position is always relative to the back of the trans (engine), and diff (diff/cradle)
I didnt have problems with the OEM shaft, only when I upgraded to an aluminum one along with 3.91 gears from RPM. :(

I also got the pedders diff bushings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
How much larger in diameter is the DSS aluminum shaft compared to the stock shaft?
Dont know the OEM size but the aluminum DSS is 3.5

I will try the bigger loop tomorrow, dont know if it will fit since there's not to much room down there...
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Livernois 1C cam 570 rwhp/559 rwtq SAE
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:10 AM   #7
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Let us know how it works for you. We also use a 3.5" diameter aluminum shaft and have not had this issue. The loop was designed fairly tight to the tunnel if I remember correctly but if there is room to widen them for larger driveshafts we may do that on the next production run...
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:28 AM   #8
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I notice you have a lot of BMR parts, but I haven't noticed if you've gone thought all the bushings in the rear... If so, maybe you need to get solid engine mounts, like the OP already suggested
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:44 AM   #9
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or sub-frame bushes or reset his engine and transmounts or tighten them or find a broken mount or get a new loop if he has a 4" shaft.
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Old 08-31-2011, 04:15 PM   #10
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Or a Chromoly Cage.
J/K let us know what you find to be the cause/solution.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:08 PM   #11
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Update:

After some minor modifications to the "bigger" loop now everything is

Looks like there's more room to the sides of the loop than to the top. Mechanic had to shorten the new loop because it was blocking the shifter.

JM
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2010 VR 2SS/RS
BMR Suspension Parts
Hendrix HD Axles
DSS Aluminum Shaft
RPM Diff / 3.91 Gears
LPE ZR1 Clutch
Edelbrock E-Force SC / JRE Fuel Upgrade
Livernois 1C cam 570 rwhp/559 rwtq SAE
Best 1/4 time: 11.43
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:23 PM   #12
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That loop isn't legal where it's positioned, and would also be ineffective in the case of a shaft break... lol.

Your loop is literally around the joint, it must be completely physically behind the joint, no more then 6 inches back. One of the issues using this style loop with that style of coupler-adapter driveshaft

In place of a crossmember, in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts, must have a retainer loop 360-degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) minimum thickness and 2-inches (5.1 cm) wide, or 7/8-inch (22.2 mm) x .065-inch (1.65 mm) welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within "6-inches" (15.2 cm) of the front universal joint f or support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DietCoke View Post
That loop isn't legal where it's positioned, and would also be ineffective in the case of a shaft break... lol.

Weird since I didnt change the location of the holes holding the loop. That DSS shaft better hold up or


Your loop is literally around the joint, it must be completely physically behind the joint, no more then 6 inches back. One of the issues using this style loop with that style of coupler-adapter driveshaft

I had no problems passing inspection during camarofest2

In place of a crossmember, in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts, must have a retainer loop 360-degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) minimum thickness and 2-inches (5.1 cm) wide, or 7/8-inch (22.2 mm) x .065-inch (1.65 mm) welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within "6-inches" (15.2 cm) of the front universal joint f or support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure.
Maybe bmr could explain the location of the loop.

JM
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2010 VR 2SS/RS
BMR Suspension Parts
Hendrix HD Axles
DSS Aluminum Shaft
RPM Diff / 3.91 Gears
LPE ZR1 Clutch
Edelbrock E-Force SC / JRE Fuel Upgrade
Livernois 1C cam 570 rwhp/559 rwtq SAE
Best 1/4 time: 11.43
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:48 PM   #14
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No, but you changed the type of shaft. With a stock shaft, the loop is behind the joint. With the DSS shaft, it is not.
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:10 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DietCoke View Post
That loop isn't legal where it's positioned, and would also be ineffective in the case of a shaft break... lol.

Your loop is literally around the joint, it must be completely physically behind the joint, no more then 6 inches back. One of the issues using this style loop with that style of coupler-adapter driveshaft

In place of a crossmember, in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts, must have a retainer loop 360-degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) minimum thickness and 2-inches (5.1 cm) wide, or 7/8-inch (22.2 mm) x .065-inch (1.65 mm) welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within "6-inches" (15.2 cm) of the front universal joint f or support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure.
Good call. Our TH400 (in our test car) does not have the driveshaft adapter (coupler) but uses a traditional style slip yoke. This setup keeps the loop in the correct spot on the shaft. With a six speed, as shown in the images above, the loop would not retain the shaft in the event of a front CV or transition shaft failure. One other thing I noticed is that the new loop that was made does not appear to be 1/4" material. It looks more like 3/16" flat stock while NHRA mandates 1/4".

To my knowledge, nobody makes a legal DSL for this setup yet. We do not intend to offer a 1-piece shaft ourselves but may develop a DSL for this conversion if it continues to gain in popularity.
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:48 PM   #16
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Thank you both (Diet Coke and BMR) for your input..

So...all the people with Crazy HP using DSS carbon or Aluminum shafts are not meeting NHRA requirements?

Or are they using "custom made" DSLs?

Brett, please let me know when your release a DSL for this shaft.

JM
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2010 VR 2SS/RS
BMR Suspension Parts
Hendrix HD Axles
DSS Aluminum Shaft
RPM Diff / 3.91 Gears
LPE ZR1 Clutch
Edelbrock E-Force SC / JRE Fuel Upgrade
Livernois 1C cam 570 rwhp/559 rwtq SAE
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Old 09-01-2011, 01:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM10 View Post
Thank you both (Diet Coke and BMR) for your input..

So...all the people with Crazy HP using DSS carbon or Aluminum shafts are not meeting NHRA requirements?

Or are they using "custom made" DSLs?

Brett, please let me know when your release a DSL for this shaft.

JM
Most either don't care that they are not compliant or they are making or modifying a DSL. There are surpisingly few 10 second M6 cars although the list is quickly growing. The rest are either 6 speed automatic cars running with the OE shaft or TH400's. This isn't really an issue with either one of these variations, it's the M6 cars that tend to break the OE driveshafts. During our product development we basically broke everything that could be broken. First was a half-shaft, then a driveshaft, then the 6 speed output shaft. Now the car has 300M half shafts, a TH400 (when we race at the drag strip) and a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft. Also, in case we do want to drag race with the M6, we upgraded the output shaft and did the Viper tailshaft mod.
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:37 PM   #18
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+1 BMR makes an excellent product which works great for the stock shaft, but you need to extend the mount plate 1-3" for an aftermarket shaft with coupler if that's what your using. A slip yoked shaft works fine as is.
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