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Old 09-05-2011, 08:16 PM   #1
Ivan @ Southwest Speed
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DIY - Install your own Drop Springs (C5 Camaro)

Based on the fact that so many people get these lowering springs and install them on their own, we thought it might be helpful to add to some of the DIY Threads already out on the Drop Springs.

Using the newest and most aggressive Drop Spring on the Market, the LG Motorsports G5 Super Springs, we decided to install a set on one of the shop cars so that you could see just how easy it is to do and what 2.5/3 hours of your time can yield!

The LG Kit says it's a 1.5" Drop Kit, but as we measured, it's closer to 1.75" all the way around. A really great kit that will "increase grip and handling due to the progressive rate springs that have a higher rate than your stock units to give you a lowered ride height, firmer sport ride while mantaing a conformtable highway feel."

First and foremost, safety is paramount! If at any time you feel you are in an unsafe situation, take the time to re-evaluate your postition and identify needs and precautions that you should take to ensure maximun safety.
  • Always use safety equipment for their intended purposes
  • Always use more than enough Jackstands and Safety Stops
  • Always Set the EBrake when on an incline
  • Always remove power from the SRS System when working on your car
  • Always have fun working on your own car and saving $99.50/hr!!

With that said, I can add that gathering the correct tools BEFORE starting will almost always save you more time than any DIY Thread or Instructions from the manufacturer! Nothing sucks more than having to get out from under your car, walking over to the cart or box and trying to find the correct size tool with dirty hands.

What we used to make it happen:
  • Floor Jack & Stands
  • 1/2" Socket Driver
  • 3/8" Socket Driver
  • 6" Extension for the 3/8" Driver
  • 10mm Socket
  • 15mm Socket
  • 18mm (1/2" Drive)
  • 21mm (1/2" Drive)
  • 24mm (1/2" Drive)
  • 15mm Box (or Open Ended) Wrench
  • 21mm Box (or Open Ended) Wrench
  • 24mm Box (or Open Ended) Wrench
  • 5mm Allen Wrench
  • T40 Torx
  • T50 Torx
  • Hacksaw or Knife to cut foam/rubber Bump Stops
  • Flat Blade Screwdriver -preferably a 10" but any will work
  • Optional - Spring Compressor (Autozone/Checker rents them for $50 Deposit)
  • Optional - Air Ratchet and equivelent Sockets to save time
  • Optional - 15mm/18mm/21mm/24mm Gear Wrenches to save time


The LG G5 Super Springs install just like many of the other Springs that are on the market. A basic Remove and Replace is all that is needed followed up by an alignment.

Credit to Hotchkiss for posting up a great read with excellent info for aftermarket alignments. We've had a couple cars aligned after Springs with their specs and it DID make a huge difference (in my opinion) in driving the car.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71994

Getting down to it, the first thing you're going to want to do after gathering your tools is to get the car up in the air. Using your Floor Jack and Stands (or Bendpak if you are in that category) lift the car safely in a manner that allows you access to take the wheels off the car and fully support the vehicle while leaving the suspension fully lowered or hanging.

Meaning, don't lift the vehicle up by the A Arms or anything that is not solid frame!

For more on lifting your Camaro, check this out:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...lifting+points

Once we're safely in the air, get the wheels off and let's start with the Rear of the Car's Springs.

First thing we'll do is remove the Sway Bar End Link from the Lower Control arm so that you'll be able to lower the Arm down further to take the Strut/Spring Assembly out.

To do this, use the 5mm Allen to hold the ball stud from the End Link secure and remove the 15mm nut holding it on. Once the nut is removed, pull the stud out from the arm and move it away.

After this, move to the bottom of the Arm and find the 21mm Bolt that holds in the bottom of the Strut Assembly. Remove it using the 21mm Socket and the 21mm wrench on the other side as to keep the nut from spinning.

Closer to the end of the arm, you will see a pair of 18mm's. This bolt and nut hold the rear spindle to the lower arm. Remove it just like you did the Strut Assembly bolt and nut.

TIP: Sometimes the bolt doesn't want to come straight out. This is where taking the Flathead Screwdriver comes into play. By placing it between the spindle hub and arm you can gently wiggle the lower part of the spindle and the bolt will come out without force. Great when reinstalling the bolt as well!! The Lower arm should now be completely free to hang and be moved in a downward fashion.

Next, using your 15mm socket and driver, loosen and remove THREE of the FOUR 15mm bolts holding the top plate of the Strut Assemble to the frame of the car.

TIP: Leave the last of the bolts installed but hand tight so that the entire Strut Assembly doesn't fall out. Once you've loosened it good, hold the Strut Assembly and remove the final 15mm bolt. The Assembly wieghs about 13lbs and isn't heavy. It just helps to support it and know it's coming out before that last bolt comes out and surprises you.

Once you have the (4) 15mm bolts out, the entire Rear Strut Assembly should be able to be completely removed from the vehicle.

Optional at this point, a Spring Compressor can be used to compress the Spring on the Strut Assembly as to remove the force with which the Strut is under. If you choose to use a Spring Compressor, follow the directions of that particular Compressor as there are several differnt styles.

If you decide not to use one, be warned that there is some force with which the Strut Assembly is under. Removing the Upper Spring nut will allow the spring to fully extend and may launch some of the pieces of the upper assembly a good 5/7 feet. There is not actually a lot of tension on the assembly so if you decide to not use a compressor, its fine - just make sure that the Strut isn't pointed at anything valuable or living. Using Safety Glasses might actually be smart here just in case!

With that said...safely compress (or dont) the Spring on the Strut assembly. Once done, go ahead and remove the 18mm nut on the top of the assembly using a T40 Torx to keep the actual Shock Rod from spinning and the 18mm Wrench.

Take note of the items and parts that come off and in what order. I've included a picture just in case you forget or don't get a chance since everything "popped" off so fast.

Reinstall the new Spring in the same way the old OEM came off and reinstall using the reverse steps outlined above. Torque to manufacturers specs.

The other side rear Strut Assembly is done in the same manner.

Moving to the front of the vehicle, the first thing we'll do is remove the upper Sway Bar end link using a 15mm. Once the nut is removed, pull it out and away from the assembly for clearance.

There is an ABS Line that goes to the wheel and it's held in with a Rubber Grommet that is simply pushed into a tab. Pull it out so that it's clear from the work.

On the opposite side of the Strut Assembly, there is a Brake Line that is held in by a 10mm bolt. Remove and clear.

Two Bolts on the bottom of the Strut and the Single nut on the Top of the Strut under the hood hold the entire Strut Assembly to the car at this point.

Remove the 2 bottom 24mm bolts and nuts from the Lower Strut Assembly. These are a little tough so you might need to put a little more effort into it than normal.

Last step in removing the Assembly from the car is to lift the hood, unscrew the small black Strut cover cap and a 24mm nut is revealed. All the weight of the Strut Asembly is being held by this so making sure that you have a hand on it when taking it off, or having an assistant hold it while you do it makes it a little safer.

TIP: There is a second 24mm nut under the first one that you just removed. Don't try and take it off at this point. It is what holds the Spring's compression and if removed may cause harm to you or your vehicle.


At this point, the Front Strut assembly has fallen out on it's own or perhaps it's still "up in the cavern." Simply give it a jingle if so, and it will come right out.

Removing the OEM Coil Spring is the same for the front as the rear. Just remember to use caution.

Reassembly is the reverse once again.

Once you have repeated the sequence for the other sides, go back and double check all your bolts and nuts to make sure that they are present and installed to the correct specifications.

Reinstall your wheels, lower your car, torque wheel lug nuts to specifications.

Schedule yourself an alignment so that you don't end up trashing your tires within a few thousand miles and start carving corners like it's 1999!

Enjoy and hope that this provided some sort of insight as to how to accomplish this task on your own. It's not nearly as hard on the 5th Gen Camaro as ANY other Camaro we've done and as far as time, it shouldn't take more than 3 hours of your time even if you're the most basic turner of wrenches.

Good Luck!!!
Ivan @ Southwest Speed
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:45 PM   #2
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Wow great write up thanks!
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:48 AM   #3
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Wow great write up thanks!
Thanks! Just wanted to add some tips to the other info that is already out there so that it invites more people to try this one themselves. It really is a very easy install that rivals some of the install level of some of the Cold Air Intakes on the market.

Another answer to some questions that I've got today is the wieght difference in these Springs verses OEM units.

The rears wiegh in at 3lbs more per spring and the fronts 1lb. So a total of 8lbs are all that is added to the car for improved cornering and reduced body roll!

Enjoy and thank you again for all the interest!
Ivan
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:01 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan @ Southwest Speed View Post
Thanks! Just wanted to add some tips to the other info that is already out there so that it invites more people to try this one themselves. It really is a very easy install that rivals some of the install level of some of the Cold Air Intakes on the market.

Another answer to some questions that I've got today is the wieght difference in these Springs verses OEM units.

The rears wiegh in at 3lbs more per spring and the fronts 1lb. So a total of 8lbs are all that is added to the car for improved cornering and reduced body roll!

Enjoy and thank you again for all the interest!
Ivan
Since you still don't have a website (unless I'm doing something wrong) how do I find the price for this? or anything else you might have for sale?

Thanks for the DIY and the encouragement!
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:29 AM   #5
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where do you find all the specs to tighten it back up at??
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:35 AM   #6
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Since you still don't have a website (unless I'm doing something wrong) how do I find the price for this? or anything else you might have for sale?

Thanks for the DIY and the encouragement!
Just shoot us a call or PM and we'll get you hooked right up!!!

Southwestspeed@q.com

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505-554-9898

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beast1 View Post
where do you find all the specs to tighten it back up at??
Try this!

http://forum.wretchedms.com/showthread.php?t=60

Thanks gang!
Ivan
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:07 PM   #7
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Good info!
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:54 AM   #8
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Awesome write up!!
And for the love of GOD, use air tools. Trust me!
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Old 09-25-2011, 01:16 AM   #9
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Awesome write up!!
And for the love of GOD, use air tools. Trust me!
A good hour saved by using em....
Ivan
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:27 PM   #10
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Damn good write up of course. I got froggy tonight and decided I was going to get the springs installed that have been sitting in my garage for almost a year now. Got the wheels off, got to the second step in the process which was the 21mm Bolt that holds in the bottom of the Strut Assembly.....could not get that thing to budge to save my life. Even broke out the breaker bar and some liquid wrench...no deal (and I'm not a weak guy). I guess whatever I drove through in the 40K miles on the car sealed that sucker in. Air tool shopping tomorrow!
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:46 AM   #11
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Thanks for the write up and info. Was alot of help!
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:57 AM   #12
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Just letting you know that I am going to print this diy out and I am going to use it tomorrow. I did not read the whole thing yet and I do not know what "timing the bushings" but I know I need to do it. Is that included in this install process?

again, thanks for the write up
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:14 AM   #13
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Damn good write up of course. I got froggy tonight and decided I was going to get the springs installed that have been sitting in my garage for almost a year now. Got the wheels off, got to the second step in the process which was the 21mm Bolt that holds in the bottom of the Strut Assembly.....could not get that thing to budge to save my life. Even broke out the breaker bar and some liquid wrench...no deal (and I'm not a weak guy). I guess whatever I drove through in the 40K miles on the car sealed that sucker in. Air tool shopping tomorrow!


How did she come out??!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroLS View Post
Thanks for the write up and info. Was alot of help!
Outstanding....thank you for checkin it out!

Quote:
Originally Posted by nikos30 View Post
Just letting you know that I am going to print this diy out and I am going to use it tomorrow. I did not read the whole thing yet and I do not know what "timing the bushings" but I know I need to do it. Is that included in this install process?

again, thanks for the write up
"Timing" is just the rotating of the spring pad bushings to achieve the correct seat for them.

Just take a picture (or mental note) of where they are before disassembly and reinstall the same way.

Easy as warm apple pie....

Ivan
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:53 PM   #14
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I just ordered some Eibachs lowering springs, will definatley will have the laptop out in the garage with the wife reading this step by step!

Thx Ivan for taking the time to do this write up
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:51 PM   #15
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so I really put the do it yourself in do it yourself with this installation. I didnt know any of the factory specs or anything. I simply turned it until I couldnt turn anymore. Everything came out fine and I have 0 issues so far.

1 question: On top of the back left spring, the rubber spacing (that the spring kinda goes into) isn't perfectly set right. So the spring is touching the top of it without the rubber between it. is that bad at all? it doesnt make a sound or anything, just wondering for the long term situation.

thanks
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beast1 View Post
where do you find all the specs to tighten it back up at??
Front and Rear Bolt Torque Values




NOTE: Torque specifications that read XX torque value and XX degrees are usually TTY and require replacement of the bolt, nut or both. If replacement parts are not available from GM the minimum acceptable torque will be those values stated along with a liberal application of a thread locker i.e. LocTite.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nikos30 View Post
I do not know what "timing the bushings" but I know I need to do it. Is that included in this install process?
Bush Timing

Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

Step 3.
Lower the car and drive it around the parking lot SLOWLY and on to the alignment lift.

Step 4.
With the weight of the car on the wheels tighten all of the nuts/bolts to spec.

Step 5.
Align the car at the new ride height.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:39 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Troy SS View Post
I just ordered some Eibachs lowering springs, will definatley will have the laptop out in the garage with the wife reading this step by step!

Thx Ivan for taking the time to do this write up
You bet!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Front and Rear Bolt Torque Values




NOTE: Torque specifications that read XX torque value and XX degrees are usually TTY and require replacement of the bolt, nut or both. If replacement parts are not available from GM the minimum acceptable torque will be those values stated along with a liberal application of a thread locker i.e. LocTite.



Bush Timing

Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

Step 3.
Lower the car and drive it around the parking lot SLOWLY and on to the alignment lift.

Step 4.
With the weight of the car on the wheels tighten all of the nuts/bolts to spec.

Step 5.
Align the car at the new ride height.
Thank you for the assist Pete!! Nice work!
Ivan
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:46 PM   #18
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You bet!!
Thank you for the assist Pete!! Nice work!
Ivan
Good to hear you didn't mind. I almost didn't post this being your thread.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:54 PM   #19
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what about my second post? can you please answer that?
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikos30 View Post
1 question: On top of the back left spring, the rubber spacing (that the spring kinda goes into) isn't perfectly set right. So the spring is touching the top of it without the rubber between it. is that bad at all? it doesnt make a sound or anything, just wondering for the long term situation.

thanks
If the end of the coil is touching the upper spring perch it will transmit more road noise. The only damage it will do is to the rubber insulator it is supposed to be seated in. With the end of the coil touching the spring perch the insulator is out of place. At some point the eneven pressure will cut that rubber insulator. When you have the time, pull it apart and re-seat it.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:25 PM   #21
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If the end of the coil is touching the upper spring perch it will transmit more road noise. The only damage it will do is to the rubber insulator it is supposed to be seated in. With the end of the coil touching the spring perch the insulator is out of place. At some point the eneven pressure will cut that rubber insulator. When you have the time, pull it apart and re-seat it.
Ok. That is what I was planning on doing. Thanks Pete!
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:25 PM   #22
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Good to hear you didn't mind. I almost didn't post this being your thread.
Oh na man. Im not "that guy." LOL

We respect ya and hell, if you ever need another honest bunch folks to represent ya down here in the Southwest, give us a call.

I'll work for ya.

Thank you for helpin it out sir.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:16 AM   #23
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Vendors acting like adults? What alternate reality am I in?

You guys are the role models that we all should follow. Big thumbs up to you both!
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:28 AM   #24
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Vendors acting like adults? What alternate reality am I in?

You guys are the role models that we all should follow. Big thumbs up to you both!
There are a few of us who actually get it......

Although we've crossed paths on dozens of customers, I don't think that we've ever actually met in person. But from my end, I know how our mutual customers have been treated by them on their side so that, in my book, makes them good folks.

I'd like to think that Pete and I are some of the few that are actually here to "SUPPORT" the forum and not just sell stuff to folks.

Glad that he is able to offer that technical aspect of suspension that is above my knowledgebases....and that he did for some of y'all here.

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Old 12-14-2012, 12:36 PM   #25
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I like this thread and think Ivan and I need to meet.
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